I don't have a permesso di soggiorno. When I first got my identity card I insisted to the guy in the cumune that, according to Maastrict, EU citizens should not be treated differently, he seemed to accept that (couldn't be bothered to call the Questura). Then it ran out when I was pg with DD and I got it renewed (having moved comune) saying "well the old comune didn't ask for it". You probbly couldn't get away with that in a big place though.
Actually it really pisses me off that I pay taxes, inps etc here, yet I can't vote. I keep meaning to get citizenship but can't be doing with the hassle of it. Maybe when DC's are bigger.
Re accents, when I first went to Toscana I thought they were talking in a funny voice as a joke, but then they were doing the same thing in the next shop I went into and I realised it was for real!