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Budding perfumistas walk this way- Part 2 of the Worst Perfumes ever

988 replies

shoeprincess2 · 13/11/2012 13:23

As the first thread is nearly full, I've set up Part 2

OP posts:
CointreauVersial · 26/11/2012 13:36

I'm wearing Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille (having received a replacement vial for the one smashed in transit). Very easy to wear, a bit less full-on vanilla than some of the others I've tried. There's more going on. I'm definitely picking up the coconut, but that's one of my favourite smells.

Thanks for the Surrender to Chance cheap shipping tip. My only issue with them is the transit time from the US - I'm too impatient!

FellatioNelson · 26/11/2012 14:18

How do I tell instantly if something is a chypre or an oriental? I know when something is floral, I know when it is green, woody, spicy, or fruity.

But although most of the fragrances I like seem to be chypres (I usually find this out afterwards!) I'm never quiet sure what it is I am latching onto, and how to tell if what I am smelling is one!

I want to love orientals because they sound glamorous and expensive, but I have a feeling that orientals are usually the ones that give me a headache and are too overpowering.

ThatsNice · 26/11/2012 15:07

I'm not wearing anything today (so far), as was hoping the postie might have brought me something fragrant to tryout alas nothing but boring mail Sad Thank you for the reminder though... I think I shall go and have a dab of something to perk me up. Noir de noir I think.. Smile

shoeprincess2 · 26/11/2012 15:18

Fiddlesticks! Just lost a post. Here I go again...

No idea FellationNelson- I still have to rely on basenotes and fragrantica.

I hope no one is caught up in the floods. If so, sending virtual perfume-y hugs!

Today is research day. I have been tasked with picking a new perfume for the MIL. Despite numerous questions from me, she couldn't really pinpoint anything particular that she likes, so I am going to play it safe with a high street scent, but from a major perfume house. Shortlist as follows:-

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre
Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche
J'Adore EdP
Miss Dior EdT

She doesn't like the heavier Chanels, so have narrowed it down to those 2. I am edging towards J'Adore (as I quite fancy the 2 Chanels for myself). Any thoughts?

OP posts:
kiwigirl42 · 26/11/2012 16:02

surrendertochance have just sent an update to their sale:

Starting tonight Sunday, November 25th at midnight (EST) and going until midnight (EST) on Monday, November 26th, we will be offering free US shipping or $2.95 off International shipping for orders totaling at least $50. Use the code freeship to take advantage of this offer.

I think we broke them!

DonaAna · 26/11/2012 16:25

Fellatio traditionally chypres are a group of perfumes modelled after Coty's Chypre that have bergamot and oakmoss and quite a few other ingredients in them. An article about them here. They have some "bite" - not exactly sharp, but still distinctive. Oakmoss absolute smells earthy, mossy, barky, almost pungent (think wet forest floor). Oakmoss is currently heavy restricted in perfumery and many traditional chypres have been discontinued or reformulated beyond recognition. Try Bandit for a leather chypre or Mitsouko for a fruity chypre.

Orientals usually have an ambery basenote (made of vanilla or labdanum, or benzoin, or other soft, balsamic, cuddly ingredients), often with spices. So if a perfume smells sweet and voluptuous and has a delicious drydown, it's often oriental (Classics: Coco and Shalimar). Gourmands are a newish class of perfumes - they share some characteristics with orientals (vanilla is prominent) but are often almost edible and dessertlike (often featuring chocolate, tonka bean and other sweet-smelling things - try Prada Candy).

Perfume classification is often a bit blurry and to a certain degree subjective too. By smelling a lot of perfumes, you learn to know the classics and archetypes. You start thinking "this smells like Coco but has more pee in it" - an oriental with a prominent animalic note. If you are a hopeless addict like I am parfumeur in training you start by smelling a lot of raw materials, first in isolation, then in combinations. Smelling isn't difficult - describing what you smell is the really hard thing.

DonaAna · 26/11/2012 16:26

Sorry about typos, multitasking as usual.

DonaAna · 26/11/2012 16:41

And a sample of Coty's Chypre can be ordered from StC. One of the greatest things for learning I've had is a sampler of vintage chypres.

Another place to smell oakmoss is the traditional masculine fougere group. And you can order samples of oakmoss absolute from some natural perfumery and aromatherapy shops.

Chypres are not everyone's cup of tea. I'm naturally drawn to orientals, but have gotten a bit tired of them, and find chypres often more sophisticated and easier for daytime. If you deeply dislike Bandit or Mitsouko right now, come back to them later - your perception of them may change.

kiwigirl42 · 26/11/2012 19:20

another almond discovery ...

FellatioNelson · 26/11/2012 19:31

No, I love Mitsouko - it's what I wear at the moment.

Thank you that explains it all very well. From what you have said I should like orientals then, as well as chypres. I am determined to buy something new soon if it kills me. Grin

I'll keep plugging on. I think the perfume shops of Doha are going to have me removed by security soon. Hmm

Haberdashery · 26/11/2012 19:43

Orientals are the ones I really really loathe, and the gourmands mainly repulse me too. They all give me a headache and make me feel a bit overwhelmed. I love chypres, though. I like the absence of sweetness. Chypres smell sort of dry in the sense of dry wine to me, not in the sense of desert dry. Does that make any kind of sense? Probably not!

FellatioNelson · 26/11/2012 19:55

That's what I thought too Habs but Dona has just described them so nicely I am thinking surely I made a mistake? Grin

I'm losing the will to live a bit. I don't think I ever going to find anything I really love. Sad

Either I hate it first but the drydown grows on me, or I think I love it, and then half an hour later I'm going OMFG that's grim, I need to scrub it off.

coffeeinbed · 26/11/2012 20:05

Chypres kill me. there's something there just makes me ill.

I try not to think in terms of groups. Besides most groups sort of overflow into each other.
I know what houses and notes and noses I like and try those. I don't think my favourites fall into any strict category.

Sorry, my point - sod the theory. Smell away!

yellowbottle · 26/11/2012 20:17

I had a weird weird perfume experience at the weekend. I tried two perfumes. One was original Shalimar, the other was Dolce and Gabanna The One. I am toying with the idea of Shalimar Parfum Initial at the moment as I keep going back to it but figured I should try the original first.

So I sprayed it. And smelled it all day. And I knew that it was very very familiar. On me it smells just like Obsession for Men (or more likely vice versa as Shalimar came first so obviously Obsession copied it).

Then I sprayed The One the next day and again it started to become very very familiar to me - on me it smelt like Hypnotic Poision.

I've been searching but those comparisons don't seem to be that common. Moreso the Shalimar / Obsession one.

Is it just me? Am I weird?

DonaAna · 26/11/2012 21:24

Fellatio the classification groups are a bit like ideas. There are only a handful of really original ideas in perfumery. Of each idea, there are hundreds or thousands of variants. Some of the subgroups were born when a new fragrant chemical was synthesized - before synthetics, only some plant extracts, spices and incenses could be used to make perfume.

Some smell preferences may be inborn, some are acquired. For me, many florals (violet, muguet, white fowers) and fruity aromas are difficult. I love quinolones - the bitter leather smell.

I don't like all perfumes in a certain group: although orientals are generally easy for me to like, I had to was off Noir Epices today.

Although some perfumes are comfortable, like favorite clothes, the thrill of new experiences is really the thing. Sometimes it is very satisfying to learn to tolerate something that is not love at first sight.

I've had a hard time loving mainstream feminines. Everything really clicked when I understood that I often prefer masculines or unisex perfumes to classic feminines. A perfume collector friend gave me a long list of what he considered the best masculines ever made - I tried many of them: it was easier to approach them with an open mind, because nobody expected me to commit to a full bottle. Another very useful thing was smelling perfumes systematically - I learned a lot about different styles, ingredients and perfumers.

shoeprincess2 · 27/11/2012 11:55

FellationNelson- I hear you. I am the same. I think Loretta is probably the nearest perfume I have tried so far, but do i really love it? I probably do, but I think that there are so many fragrances out there, I don't think I'll ever just stick to one. I don't think that I am the kind of person to have a "signature" anything. I am exactly the same with cosmetics and skincare. I have about 5 or 6 different foundations and goodness knows how many moisturisers. I don't stick to one faithfully. My friend, on the other hand, is a First girl. Has always worn First and will never deviate from it.

Anyway, today's perfume is L'ombre Dans L'Eau by Diptyque. A beautiful wild rose, completely different to the roses by Tauer (Dona talked about the wild roses v jammy roses on the 1st thread). Could be worth a full bottle purchase, but then again...so many more samples to try Wink.

So, what is your Christmas Day scent going to be? We'll probably be ready for our 3rd thread by Christmas week, so it will be good to share out festive scents and also any fragrant gifts that we receive.

OP posts:
ThatsNice · 27/11/2012 12:07

Great info DonaAna, thank you. I do like reading your posts and info Smile

I am in fragrant delight this morning! My samples from stc arrived (complete with latte sweet). I ordered opium pure parfum (never actually sniffed the real deal, only a cheap smell-a-like years ago which singed my nostrils, lol!). Also got the coco trio as never (knowingly) sniffed those either. I know..my nose has lead a rather sheltered life, lol! Absolutely adoring opium!!! Having been too poor most of my life to enjoy most perfumes (so never bothered testing any out knowing I couldn't afford to buy), and now having discovered you guys and the totally new concept (to me) of samples & decanted, has opened up an unlimited world of fragrance to me that I could never have enjoyed otherwise. So thank you [heart]

DonaAna · 27/11/2012 16:41

I'm tempted to say my Christmas perfume will be Caron's Nuit de Noel. Boring, non? Grin Will any of you give yourself /ask for fragrant gifts? I wouldn't mind Oud Ispahan by Dior.

Full bottles are something that I encourage you to buy only after exhausting a sample (and perhaps even a decant). Yes, I will buy bottles of something that is not easy to get otherwise, but generally they just bore me. Signature perfume is such a dull idea - like wearing the same dress every day for the rest of my life.

Nice - bring on the Opium! I'm happy someone has the guts to wear bold classics. I might wear Coco tomorrow - weather gray an rainy in Italy, need something substantial.

Shoe L'ombre is heart-breakingly beautiful. Une Rose by Malle is another very lovely wild rose.

Have been in meetings again all day today - need to smell normal, hence No. 19.

One more affordable way of enjoying perfumes: purchasing minis (normally 5ml) on eBay. Not everything is available that way, but good to remember (particularly for great mainstream perfumes, such as Opium). I keep a mini of Fendi's Theorema on my desk.

Yellow good question - I would answer but am ashamed to say I don't remember what The One smells like - and although I have a very good idea about women's Obsession (I used up a couple bottles as a twentysomething), I'm not quite sure about the nuances of Obsession for Men. Should check it!

I'm including here an inspiring list of great masculines (from a Basenoter) - note that it includes CK Obsession for Men. I've really expanded my horizons by wearing them. Yatagan, Antaeus, Eau Sauvage and Habit Rouge are a permanent part of my wardrobe as a result. Dip your toes in dangerous waters!

Caron Pour un Homme, Knize Ten, Aramis Classic, Eau d?Hermes, Sables or Eau de Monsieur or Duel by Annick Goutal, Yatagan (Caron), Rochas Man, Fahrenheit (Dior), Givenchy Gentleman, Santal Noble (Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier), Parfum d?Habit (Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier), Centaure (Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier), Body Kouros (YSL), Au Masculin (Lempicka), Fuel for Men, M7 (YSL), Azzaro Pour Homme, Amouage Gold for Men, Obsession for Men (CK), Le troisieme Homme (Caron), Comme des Garcons 2 Man, Czech & Speake Cuba, Dior Homme, A*Men (Mugler), Dolce&Gabbana Pour Homme, Beyond Paradise Men (Lauder), Grey Flannel (Beene), Pi (Givenchy), Gucci Pour Homme (2003), Habit Rouge (Guerlain), Bel Ami (Hermes), Mouchoir de Monsieur (Guerlain), Vetiver (Guerlain), Terre d?Hermes, Declaration (Cartier), Joop! Homme, Kenzo Air, Nasomatto Duro, Black XS (Rabanne), Pascal Morabito Or Black, Old Spice, Polo (Lauren), Midnight in Paris (Van Cleef & Arpels), The Dreamer (Versace), New York (de Nicolai), Chanel Pour Monsieur, Antaeus (Chanel), Egoiste (Chanel), Eau Sauvage (Dior), Lagerfeld Classic, Savador Dali Pour Homme, Kouros (YSL), Cool Water (Davidoff), Drakkar Noir (Laroche), Green Irish Tweed (Creed), 1 Million (Rabanne), Le Male (Gaultier), Le Dandy (D?Orsay), Ormonde Man (Ormonde Jayne), Tabac Original.

ThatsNice · 27/11/2012 18:58

DonaAna, I had to keep sniffing my wrist with the opium on. Delicious! It is barely there now though, so have dabbed a bit of coco on the other wrist. I am love, love, loving this too! It reminds me of my old time favorite Noa... so comforting Smile

ThatsNice · 27/11/2012 19:04

Have just found Demeter fruit cake cologne on stc Grin

CointreauVersial · 27/11/2012 21:16

LOL at Old Spice! Back in my days at Procter & Gamble it was one of the brands I looked after. I don't think anyone regarded it as a "great masculine"; it was struggling to lose its image as an old man's fragrance of choice.

Today I'm trying one of my Surrender to Chance samples - Ambre Narguile. Another lovely one - caramel and honey, then a wave of plums and mulled wine. It's funny how many of the recent samples I've ordered have been warm, spicy and vanilla-y; it must be the weather. I'm finding them really comforting.

ThatsNice · 28/11/2012 09:51

Coco mademoiselle today. Nice. But doesn't grab me in the same way coco or opium did yesterday. Last of the trio is coco noir to try either later today or tomorrow Smile

DonaAna · 28/11/2012 11:20

Gotta love Old Spice Wink

I'm wearing Bas de Soie by Serge Lutens today. It's a strange, piercing, metallic, soapy fragrance - quite unique and captivating. Nothing could be further from a feel-good fragrance, it almost hurts my nose. I think it has quite a bit of laundered-sheets iris in it, and that's why I love it.

Turin/Sanchez say Chanel No. 19 is what a heartless woman chooses to smell like. Compared to Bas de Soie, No. 19 is the softest, cuddliest, politest thing ever.

Teint de Neige and Bas de Soie are both interesting fragrances - they imply that makeup and underwear are in fact steely armors, walking warfare.

Nice enjoy the Cocos! To me, Coco M. is a slightly calculating mid-level manager. A good work perfume that exceeds expectations and helps to get things done, even in style, but full of exterior motives and as original as a style choice as a Mulberry Bayswater. (And smells a bit of cold tea.)

kiwigirl42 · 28/11/2012 12:52

I'm wearing Lolita Lempicka Fleur Defendue this morning (just shifting a nasty migraine and its mild enough to cope with). I won a bottle on ebay for £12! Lovely, lovely pale greeny apple shaped bottle. It smells really fresh and green to me, slightly floral - nothing like the notes indicate it may smell like. Would make a lovely spring fragrance.
I find it quite difficult to smell the notes in it acutally - it almost disappears into my skin

kiwigirl42 · 28/11/2012 12:57

ooh, another thing: I went to the new Jo Malone website where she sells her new perfume line (completely seperate from Jo Malone, which was sold to Estee Lauder I think) and emailed them for some samples. They will send out 2 samples so I received Gardenia and A shot of oud over mango. Will let you know more when I sample them