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Original poster

Wnt to oil some solid oak wooden worktops.... any advice please?

29 replies

orangina · 12/04/2011 10:03

Hi there....

I have bought a large solid oak worktop to put on top of various bits of built in joinery around the house. It's been cut down to size and fitted, and looks lovely. I do need to oil it though or else it will look like rubbish fairly quickly, but as it is not a kitchen worktop, it doesn't have to be super hard wearing.

I'm going to order a sample of a tinted oil by Osmo, as I think in at least one of the areas I want a slightly darker look, but otherwise I want as natural a finish as possible. Do I just go for the Osmo clear oil? Or Danish oil? Or something else?

Anyone have any words of wisdom they might share?

Thank you! Smile

(I have a bit of the worktop left over, so can test out a few options if necessary, but don't really want to spend a lot of money on multiple samples.....)

OP posts:
Original poster
orangina · 12/04/2011 10:03

Aurgh, sorry for typo in heading!

OP posts:
JaxTellersOldLady · 12/04/2011 10:06

My worktops in the kitchen are Oak and I use Danish Oil on them. I paint it on with a brush and leave it to dry, it has to be done a few times in the first few weeks, then every couple of months, depending on wear.

Just reminded me that mine need re oiling! hmmf.

I tell you, next time it will be granite!

Original poster
orangina · 12/04/2011 10:17

Thanks Jax.... does it look pretty natural? Did it change the colour from the original (non oiled) very much?

OP posts:
Fayrazzled · 12/04/2011 10:22

I use files hard wax oil. It is very durable. The cabinet maker put several coats on before fitting (more light coats better than few thick coats) and I reoil about every 6 months- often longer. It's get easy to use: wipe on in direction of the grain then rub of excess. Needs 4+ hours to dry but takes no more than 20 mins to do.

Fayrazzled · 12/04/2011 10:24

Should say Fiddes in the post above.

Original poster
orangina · 12/04/2011 10:28

I was just looking at the Fiddes hard wax oil Fayrazzled.... So much will depend on how the (currently) unfinished oak looks afterwards I think....

I currently have a sample of the danish oil, a sample of the Fiddes hard wax oil and a sample of the osmo tinted oil in my shopping basket..... perhaps time to check out and just get oiling tomorrow!

OP posts:
JaxTellersOldLady · 12/04/2011 13:18

yes OP the Danish Oil I have is clear and makes the wood look lovely.

Takes a while to dry but is very nice.

Original poster
orangina · 12/04/2011 15:21

Thank you all, have now placed my samples order!

Smile
OP posts:
greenlotus · 13/04/2011 18:17

Osmo clear does darken the wood slightly, like any oil or varnish would, and then the wood tends to darken on exposure to light. (My desk here is plain raw pine that has been Osmo'd and a year or two on, is getting to be more of a honey colour). I have never tried the Danish oils but hardwax oil (Osmo or Fiddes I guess) IME is brilliant.

sunshinenicky · 15/04/2011 15:26

What do you do if you don't know what wood the counters are (they are dark wood)? Just choose a clear oil? How often are you supposed to oil them? Thanks for help!

greenlotus · 15/04/2011 20:56

sunshinenicky, are your counters oiled already and needing maintenance or are they bare wood? A clear hardwax oil will follow the natural wood colour, the only reason to use a tint would be to change the colour of a light wood.

noddyholder · 16/04/2011 09:28

Osmo polyx oil the high solid one.

IngridBergman · 16/04/2011 09:33

Danish oil isn't 100% definitely food safe, just so you know...also if you are fitting a sink to the worktop, make sure you leave a bit unoiled where the sink needs to be sealed in or the silicon won't stick.

I have used Danish oil as I was copying my friend - however he then told me it wasn't the best thing, I suspect he is using something that will harden on top, maybe that's the hard wax oil stuff.

where do you buy this from, anyone know?

sunshinenicky · 16/04/2011 10:40

Hi Greenlotus,

Thanks for replying - they just need maintenance so will use a clear hardwax oil.

Thanks again.

greenlotus · 16/04/2011 11:46

If it's to go on top of a different oil, it may not dry properly, if you go back up the thread you will see the OP was getting samples which might be a good idea so you can try it out first. I've mainly used it on bare wood.
Also you could ring up one of the suppliers such as AG Woodcare, I have found them to be very helpful.

Original poster
orangina · 17/04/2011 22:30

I have bought and tried out the samples now and the results are as follows:

Danish oil. My least favourite. Has darkened the wood quite a lot, and left it looking kind of "wet". Don't like it at all.
Fiddes hardwax oil (clear, matt). Looks lovely. Darkens it only slightly, leaves a lovely finish (did 2 coats for the sample) and will definitely be using this on one of the pieces of timber.
Osmo Polyx tinted oil (graphite). Love this. Makes it look like grey oak, which works well with where I want to use it. Also a clear, matt finish. Really lovely.

I got it all from "wood finishes direct" online. Am off to place my order now!

OP posts:
Original poster
orangina · 17/04/2011 22:31

(it all went on a solid oak worktop. Composite in strips, but solid, iyswim.....)

OP posts:
IngridBergman · 18/04/2011 07:59

Thanks, Orangina, I'll have a look. I like the sound of the graphite one.

My Danish oil didn't do that - didn't darken it much at all and it doesn't look wet, it looks a bit unoiled if anything! But I wanted a tougher finish really so the ones with wax in sound better.

HelloMyNameIsHilda · 18/04/2011 14:51

my new oak counter tops are proving not so durable - can I put the hard wax on top of danish oil - sounds like it might give a bit more protection...

help...before it all drives me batty

greenlotus · 18/04/2011 15:40

I would ring up a supplier and check - they might suggest you strip off the danish oil first. I forget the solvent it might be white spirit or something like that.

Original poster
orangina · 18/04/2011 19:09

I agree w greenlotus, think you have to strip off oiled finish (sanding followed by white spirit maybe?!) or else the hardwax won't "hold".....

OP posts:
HelloMyNameIsHilda · 18/04/2011 22:38

aaah, ok. will check properly then. Thanks Smile

is teh hard wax a bit more protective then? I'm totally paranoid - this stuff cost me a lot and I am about to put my house on market so won't even leave a teacup on it in case it stains - it's exhausting!

greenlotus · 18/04/2011 23:41

It is meant to be more durable, yes, IME it is quite a durable finish on things like shelves and coffee tables where you tend to get stains from cups and sauce bottles. Have not actually used it on an oak worktop though (if only!).

Osmo Top Oil Clear is the one you want. Two thin coats wiped over with a cloth.

SadMooWatchingYouToo · 19/05/2011 18:21

Just spoke with Fiddes this afternoon and they say you can use Hardwax Oil over Danish Oil, you just give it a light sand first before you apply.

SadMooWatchingYouToo · 19/05/2011 18:21

Just spoke with Fiddes this afternoon and they say you can use Hardwax Oil over Danish Oil, you just give it a light sand first before you apply.