I also struggled to get going with this one. At one point I was ready to give up, but then it seemed to get easier to read and I read the second half in one sitting.
The racism didn't surprise me at all (I work with people with dementia, and have met many people of this generation who having lost their learnt inhibitions, continued to express all the views portrayed in the book.)
I also enjoyed the characters, and was moved by Queenie's story in particular.