Pax wardrobe after connecting and fixing to the wall

[Sandyriver]

Hi mums,
Been reading some of your tips to build the pax 236cm height version. Built 2 100 x 236 and 1 50 x 236 in about 3 das , doing 1 at a time. Still have to do the sliding doors and the glass door on the 50. My qestion is that after connecting the wardrobes, and then securing them to the wall , one side on the top of the 100 near the top plank seems to have come out a bit . The same with the 50 too on one side. S it going to cuse stability issues ? Do you think i can correct this now befor eputting the sliding doors? Here are the pics, couldnt get them that clear sorry.
m.imgur.com/1A9QLsY,jfhnuRj
I would appreciate any tips here. Thanks

The links not working

Sorry, here goes one more time -

imgur.com/XmIynPb
imgur.com/OG0sxmR

As someone who owns more Pax wardrobes than I care to admit, you have 2 issues.

Firstly the gap between the top piece and the side piece isn't screwed together enough on the left wardrobe, so it need the cam locking nut tightening. Part 113434.

Look at step 13 in the instructions. All the nuts tighten roughly the same amount, it needs turning more to pull the pieces together.

The second issue is the connection between the two wardrobes. We don't use the connecting bolt things. We hold the wardrobes together with a clamp and use a screw to go in one of the predrilled holes which is long enough to go through the side of the first wardrobe and about 1/3 to 1/2 way into the side of the next wardrobe.

I am assuming you just used your hands to hold the two together and somehow they have come apart. Again it is a tightening issue.

I will confess to my Pax wardrobe addiction. I have 5 doubles and 14 singles. I could put them together blindfolded.

Brilliant answer there ElectricS any other tips? It's a very long time since I built any and we have 8 large to put together and it's a bit daunting

Thank you electricseal.
You are right. I took a deep breath and tried tightening the 2 boards together. You are right the second time too , i used my hands to clamp the boards together. Didnt think it would end up this way.
My floor and walls are also not level. So i was worried. Also worried of over tightening the screws. The v persists a bit. Couldnt do much to fix that one. I could hear the boards straining.
So i now dealt with all 3 frames 1- 50 and 2-100's. Added a sliding door to the doubles. And a mirror door for the 50. Looks neat. Any tips on the sliding doors. The outer door has an unusual gap of about 2 inches. Yet to fix the side metal board covers and the metal rail which goes on the door itself, the one which has the rubber flap to stick on it.
Can you give me some install instructions here please so that i dont install it wrong.
Thanks in advance.

@Sandyriver Glad I was of help with the frames. Mine are all hinged doors I'm afraid so I can't help with the sliding doors. If your Ikea is as close as mine is (a mere few miles away) the staff are always really helpful. Or ring them.

But yes, straining not good so wise to leave it.

@MissCherryCakeyBun when you lay the sides down to start the whole process, once you have put in the wall fixing L plates and the cam screw things, if you have any drawers or shelves put the fittings in now rather than squeezing inside the damn thing when it is upright.

Always remember to think about where the door hinges go, this prevents you using certain fittings at the very top or bottom. Some things have fittings underneath and some at the top ie the wooden drawer runner is underneath and the wire basket is at the top.

Ikea tend to have amazing photos of their filled wardrobes but they are open, no doors, so they don't have to consider the hinges.

If you don't know where the door hinges are going to go, before you put any of it together, lie the side piece down, lie the door next to it and line up the top edges, not the bottom as it has that little panel piece (which is why the bottom cam screws are 3 holes up and the top ones are at the edge) then you can see where the hinges will go and won't use those holes.

I actually love putting Pax together.

We found someone who put together three doubles and a single for £100. Money well spent!

Although I did the interiors.

Later I did all the kitchen cupboards myself - I could do those in my sleep!

Just built a 100 for my DD's closet. No need of doors as we built it inside the cubby space and used the existing sliding doors. The building was easy after the herculean task of 2, 100s and 1 , 50 frame with 236 cm ht. This one was the smaller ht one too. The only problem we faced was trying to get the frame into the space. We ending up removing the existing closet slats, quarerboards, baseboards, and also the side frame of the door. So it was like a mini demolition and wayyy to stressfull. Bt my DD is loving it.

Do you secure the 236 height wardrobes to the wall? There's no way these can fall?...

It depends on your ceiling height as to wether you fix them to the wall....the 236 will fit in our room but we will have to build it upright as there won't be enough room to right it so it physically won't be able to fall over. If there is room for it to fall so you can build it on the floor and can right it? You need to get the IKEA securing kits to secure them to the wall.

Info here www.ikea.com/gb/en/ikea/secure-it/