How can I make pleats stay crisp in a homemade dress?

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Hi, I want to make a dress with these box (?) pleats. How do the creases stay stiff? Is it the type of fabric used? If I used a thicker more robust cotton would that work? Or is the fabric crease put in during the manufacturing process and it’s not really a thing you can replicate at home?

The photo is of a school uniform dress if that helps - but this is the kind of finish I’m looking for, and I want to wash and iron it while the creases stay in place, like it would in a school uniform dress.

They don’t stay stiff, unless it is a stiff fabric. Everything I have made with pleats I have to repress the pleats in after I have washed it. I think in shop bought garments like school uniform, the pleats are chemically treated to stay in. I say this because when a friend of mine, studying fashion, designed a pleated garment and her tutors arranged for the fabric to be sent away to a specialised pleating company.
1 idea would be to machine a row of stitches, very closely to the fold line.

Ah okay, thanks, I thought that might be the case.

I’ll experiment with stitching then!

I have a vague recall of using copydex on the inside of the pleat - but I dunno where from or why?

Maybe iron on hemming tape?

I use 'Best Press' ironing spray. It's like spray starch but doesn't have starch in it, also smells amazing.

Not easiest of things to find in the UK but you can sometimes find it on Amazon or from the Debbie Shore website.

Obviously not a permanent fix but definitely helps keep creases a bit firmer.

I want the crease to stay, but to be moving when I’m walking, so I don’t want to use hemming tape. I’ll look into the copydex though.

Oh that sounds like it’s worth giving a go. Thanks.

I use it all the time on quilting cotton, it's great for ironing creases out but even better for ironing creases in to e.g when folding homemade bias binding. Definitely worth a go.

Yes, you iron the pleats in, then paint a fine line of Copydex in the crease and press the whole pleat back down again with a ruler. Not with fingers, as you may end with a rippled pleat. The ruler gives a more even pressure.

Do not use the brush that comes in the Copydex. Far too thick. Use a fine, pointed paintbrush. You only want a 1-2mm think line.

Thanks @PaperPanama I wasn't sure if I could trust my memory

I’m not sure how machine washable it would turn out to be.

I found this online if it's any help (uses water & vinegar) https://lauradsews.blogspot.com/2012/08/tutorial-chemically-set-pleats.html?m=1

I would be interested to hear what you try and how you get on OP.