Havng bra issues

[Katymac]

OK - I can sew a perfectly acceptable bra

But I can't fit one or make one to fit someone

I have the Craftsy tutorial and one from foundation Garments but neither really make sense

& I have a swimsuit with an integral bra which looks good

So far I have made a very poor bra using 2 way stretch (I think it needs to be tougher) I started a denim bra to see if something a bit more substantial would make a difference (but I'm not sure it does) & so I'm wavering

I think this is the most complicated challenge I have ever considered - any hints or tips

Hi Katy - to stop derailing other thread - like I said not a good sewer so not much advice - I'm a have a go type - usually of something when I can't buy exactly what I want - so eg I normally make my own purse/wallet -with the right amount of card spaces and a coin bit etc that is small enough to fit in my trouser pocket...(I've not had time recently and my old one was collapsing so I bought one - the smallest one everything would fit in - and it is too big and bulky - I will have to make one when I have a bit more time)

Anyway a couple of thoughts on how I would go about it...
Could you make one in cheap cotton or something to get the size right ...use an old bra as template for the size and do biggish seams (not comfy!!) but then you could faff around more to get the cup size right. Then once you do, use your cotton one as a template - assuming it is woven it won't have much stretch you could stretch a piece out and then compare to the stretch in bra fabric ( which I imagine would be one way) then you know you need to make the stretchy one proportionally smaller - but start with bigger seams so you can make them smaller (so no unpicking) - also I guess you could try it on inside out? So you can more easily increase the seam size ...

This is what I wrote 'post course' - I am something of a systems geek and enjoy the planning stage

I haven't got much further as well as it's completion

Actually making a bra, although at the edge of my technical capabilities is reasonably achievable.

It’s not perfect but the first time you ever make a ‘thing’ it needs refinement. Understanding how the materials and fabrics move and adjust is always a learning curve.

Looking at a reasonably fitting bra and making minor adjustments so the next bra fits better is within my capabilities

Knowing which style of bra will fit best is not. Knowing how much stretch the fabric should have, knowing which size elastic, straps, hooks, cups is not.

Taking a standard bra pattern, making it to size and then fitting will take many, many iterations to achieve ‘best fit’; each iteration will cost about £9 of kit plus 2.5-4 hours (reducing to 2 over time & experience). Assuming minimum wage this means a fitted bra could start at about £175 for one that is ‘easy to fit’ and into the thousands for one that isn’t; with virtually no profit.

Ideas (stupid or otherwise)

1. Buy very cheap stretch satin & elastic
2. Buy cheap stretch satin & elastic & use contrasting colour of cotton to sew with so it’s easier to unpick
3. Buy cheap stretch satin & elastic & use contrasting colour of cotton to sew with; don’t use zigzag stitching until the final or penultimate bra is made so it’s easier to unpick
4. Buy each wire size to help with sizing actually holding the against the body to see which fits best (but that is quite intrusive) then using the size of the cup to cut out the cup pieces.
5. Make laminated shapes in card of all the different cup sizes and use to help with sizing again actually holding the against the body to see which fits best (but that is quite intrusive) then using the size of the cup to cut out the cup pieces.
6. Use (is it) button/buttonhole elastic (for school skirts & trousers to reduce the waist) to measure the band as the person wearing it would get an idea of how tight they wanted it. I struggle with measuring elastic somewhat the rule is measure the person & then reduce to 20%, but that doesn't really allow for comfort so a combination would be good.

The fabric issue is a bit of a nightmare as different stretches provide different support and so the same bra in the same size but made in different fabrics will fit differently (so far)