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Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose

992 replies

botemp · 19/03/2021 16:26

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.


Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

Consignment shops, Vintage, and Restaurants


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Thread gallery
278
CatherineMaitland · 17/05/2021 15:00

Thanks everyone!

botemp · 17/05/2021 15:02

It's a chambray cotton this one, it's a really great price and really nice to work with and irons really well, it has structure while being lightweight and wrinkling is minimal too. I'm sure it'll be good for shirts but I have too many chambray shirts already. I bought it with no idea what to make with it so only got 2 metres (I was thinking top or short dress) but next time I'm buying fabric without anything in mind I'll get 3 metres, although the minimal fabric meant I had to get creative so that's good too.

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Redandblue11 · 17/05/2021 19:56

Yes, I got the tee shirt (I am wearing it today). The weather has been pants here!

Elle the jeans are some levis I got a couple of years ago and at the time I posted here.

Redandblue11 · 17/05/2021 19:58

What a fantastic summer dress Bo Smile

banivani · 18/05/2021 11:06

The dress looks great Bo, and very "you". I'm not sure I understand the slanted waist line, have you got an illustration to link to?

Love a deep pocket. YY to hands.

FOrgot to wish Catherine the best of luck!

banivani · 18/05/2021 12:11

Oh forgot - Elle, that jolted my memory banks, I remember the trousers now. They're still great.

And sadly I have never been privy to the joys of end of line back of the shops massive reductions because those types of brands have always always deemed me a hippo Angry - but let's hope for the return of them!

botemp · 18/05/2021 12:17

Hmm this is my best attempt. In essence the back waist sits lower than the front and the side angles down.

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botemp · 18/05/2021 12:18

Oi, where have my images gone Sad

Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
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banivani · 18/05/2021 16:21

Oh yes, now I recognise it! Tbh I never thought of that as an actual thing that would be translated into reality, it just seemed like part of the sketches, artistic license or something. What is the advantage?

botemp · 18/05/2021 16:29

It gives a bit of air around my waist and elongates that (and by extension me) so it doesn't all feel volume volume - tiny squished in bit where everything else seems to burst out from - volume volume. I think the advantage is you can actually amp up the volume, going by the New Look anyhow, and it's less look at my tiny waist and more look at my interesting silhouette. There's more room for proportion play that isn't entirely dependent on the body that's wearing it, I think. Anyhow, it's extremely flattering on me so I'm happily embracing it.

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banivani · 18/05/2021 17:10

That is so interesting. I'd love a closer look at that feature (am not going to be making it myself Grin ). Love stuff like that.

botemp · 18/05/2021 17:21

I don't know if she adresses it in here, but the thumbnail has the side profile pic I was looking for with how the silhouette slants at the side. I suppose it's a bit that pigeon breast S shape thing in a different era. The new look had a lot of bustle pads and petticoats hiding underneath, I think because we have this idea of it being modern it's like clothes today but there's a lot of intriguing technical aspects to it. Anyhow video goes through a lot of the design elements and the who what why of it.

On the V&A YouTube channel there's also a couple of videos where they X-ray Balenciaga dresses to figure out all the trickery inside it, he was really masterful at it. I agree it's very intriguing as it's this confluence of design and construction, it all seems to be considered very separate skills these days where one stands in service of the other.

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banivani · 19/05/2021 07:45

Thank you for the video tips Bo, those are great channels. It's a bit beyond me I'm afraid (I learn by doing and sadly do too little) but they're very good resources.

I love photographs of women protesting against Dior's New Look as something taking women backwards. Seems to have been mostly in the US and no idea how widespread it was but it's a good reminder that gorgeous as the clothes are they weren't really modern Grin

Floisme · 19/05/2021 08:05

That's so interesting, both the construction but also the protests - I'd never heard about them before. Yeah the story we've been told is that post-war women were sick of Utility Clothing and couldn't wait to start dressing like 'real women' again. I know my mum disliked the New Look but I'd just assumed it hadn't been her style and that it was unaffordable for ordinary women (no high street knock offs then).

botemp · 19/05/2021 08:34

Yes, Dior's sudden rise to stardom is an interesting one. He was famous and filling orders before he even had a proper fashion show. He was much more a critic's favourite than adored by the masses. But I think it's quite reflective of the times, the good taste dictators and the masses stood very far apart.

It's funny though as we're seeing this rosy eyed historical dress revival now as well. I can't get over their corset stances, forced body ideals through shapewear is not something to just glance over just because they're not super uncomfortable. Doesn't detract that I find it interesting and enjoy spotting the revived silhouettes subtly. Like attached Bottega Veneta dress that I might attempt to remake for the mini mannequin as I'm just curious how it all fits together but it's very much the silhouette of corsets and poofy 18th(?) century pannier skirts just without all the supporting garment underneath. I've highlighted where the seam lines are as it's probably difficult to see due to colour and image size.

Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
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Floisme · 19/05/2021 08:46

Yes I look at that and I'm kind of torn between admiring the craft and the cleverness and thinking.... well I'm not quite sure what really.

botemp · 19/05/2021 08:53

Me too Flo, I think Coco Chanel and her scathing captures it well, of the New Look she said, “Look how ridiculous these women are, wearing clothes by a man who doesn’t know women, never had one, and dreams of being one.”

Doesn't detract that it's nice to look at but there's a regressive undercurrent that just doesn't sit right with me in that it is more concerned with the idea of women than the reality of them.

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banivani · 19/05/2021 10:08

I'm slightly in a disagreement with you there Bo re: the historical sewists and corsets (but there is a difference here between the ones who are genuine hobbyists/revivalists and the ones trying to make money off Youtube etc and who choose clickbaity video titles). I find that their point often is that there is a difference between stays and corsets, between 1790 and 1890, between working class and nobility, and that these were garments obviously being worn by women who did a lot of hard labour and that wouldn't have been possible if they were deadly. Also they push very hard that you wore a chemise underneath Grin However I agree that since they were happily thrown off in the 1920s they can't have been that great and that this point is seldom made - otoh the garment worn in the immediately preceding time period must have been one of the most oppressive variations surely. Also, they were just replaced by other shapewear, girdles etc - and now we replace it with spanx and/or frenetic dieting and exercise. How comfortable are our clothes anyway - denim waistbands that dig in, knickers that ride up your arse, unfitting sleeves that pull and restrict... Women in the 40s must genuinely have felt that their clothes and clothing options had reached peak comfort actually. Grin

Btw I have a theory that the voluptuous women in baroque paintings do not necessarily represent an ideal form (because frankly I think slimmer bodies have always been considered more attractive and I think this is borne out by contemporary writings), but are just realistic images of undressed women, outside of stays and padding Wink ie nobody genuinely thought women were cones with massive hips it was just an ideal silhouette when clothed.

That Chanel quote is very good, even if she was a Nazi. Wink

That BV dress is so gorgeous

botemp · 19/05/2021 10:32

Yes, I don't have an issue with corsets/stays really. I too just class them as undergarments that occasionally had their odd moments (see also: push up bras) but I tend to roll my eyes at the lack of nuance and the "feminist" framing around it that wards any discussion around it. Their issue seems to be mainly Hollywood's interpretation but, you know, artistic license is a thing, they're using modern language too so it's a weird standard. It's all just a lot more nuanced than its made out to be, see also the non electric sewing machine love, it's that pink eyed nostalgia that completely turns out what technological innovation has done, most specifically for working class women (and men if we're talking technical innovation in general). They're just a lot of "everything was better then" attitude, very much missing out the crucial for some at the end.

I have a lot more time for the social historian reenactor sorts who can be quite anal about it all, and it's therefore quite an exclusive community but it doesn't brush anything unpleasant under the carpet either.

The ideal female form often stands in relation to excess and restraint, whichever is hardest to achieve and displays you (as a woman) have a lot of spare time is the one that's en vogue. But proportions don't differ that much and that just goes back to fertility and waist hip ratios. Anyhow, as much as we ooh and aah over those paintings, back in the day they were often just noble men's porn that they kept in a special room with a little curtain draped over it, porn stars today aren't exactly representative for ideal female forms either but there's certainly echoes.

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banivani · 19/05/2021 18:59

Yes whenever we're waxing lyrical about natural fabrics here and/or feeling nostalgic it'd be wise to remember why women of the 60s and 70s embraced the polyester and nylon revolution not to mention the use and discard culture - freedom from having to care and mend means time to pursue other interests for the first time in, what, millenia?

Btw saw these jeans on Instagram and thought of you lot Grin www.instagram.com/p/CO0hSzuANr_/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

botemp · 19/05/2021 19:41

Yes, and let's be honest, none of us are harping on about natural fibres when wearing workout gear. Decent wages, leisure times, convenience, we really shouldn't take them for granted.

I must admit, I'm digging the horizontal slashed jeans Blush less of a fan of the Michelin man pipe cleaner ones.

I've also just noticed my English has been atrocious today, apologies and all that, I'm sure you'll all forgive me if I pretend to be French.

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banivani · 20/05/2021 07:17

So atrocious (didn’t notice). Thought you might like those jeans as a concept!

botemp · 20/05/2021 08:00

I suspect those jeans only look good 2D and not moving 🤷 you probably also need chopstick legs.

It was atrocious, I tell you, I can tell I was doing the direct translation thing instead of thinking in English, it happen when I'm tired.

Anyhow, back to my questionable taste and the 90s, I'm also digging the platform flip flops (not fit flops, I've not completely lost it). Do I need more summer shoes, definitely not, but I'm finding myself wanting some. I've not lost it enough to spend stupid money on the ones from the Row (pic 1) but I'm liking these from St Agni, but the picture of them on is such a weird perspective, I'm wondering if feet actually look good in them.

I do have a pair similar in this vein from Calvin Klein that are either late 90s or 00s (can't remember when I bought them but I remember being a teenager) but they're not flipflops

Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: For the Love of Well Dressed Women in Repose
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Floisme · 20/05/2021 08:24

I've been to a couple of history enactment fairs (I don't do enactment myself but know someone who does) and they're really interesting and enjoyable. It was where I found that company who do the handmade pouffy shirts and whose name I've forgotten again. But yeah nostalgia chic can be annoying (unless I'm indulging in it myself obviously). I always roll my eyes a bit when people wax on about pre-lycra denim.

I'm going to need sandals this summer, although I've been saying that for 3 or 4 years now and got away without bothering.

XingMing · 20/05/2021 09:28

The way the weather has been for the last two weeks, I can't see me getting out of wellies anytime soon. Sandals?

Interesting musings on body shape and underpinnings yesterday which left me very grateful for all the technological innovations that have rendered whalebone stays unnecessary.

Fine art as noble porn is probably on target, but we have to be happy it was created. Not many people would find it overly erotic these days, or would they if society were to return to repressive, Islamist puritanism.