I'm late to this, but I was reading The Times magazine over lunch, saw it and remembered this thread. One of our DC is still a teen and vegetarian, so perhaps DH is their target here.
I therefore asked DH if he'd seen the ad. He said he'd started reading it, thinking it was editorial, then realised it was an ad, but still had no idea what it was advertising, thought it was bonkers, and quickly turned the page! Obviously, DC don't read the ST magazine...
Anyway, the magazine also has a full-page ad for Sainsbury's, almost no writing, picture of food (meat!), price, all very clear. Job done.
No idea what Oatly is thinking of with those ads, but no doubt they played well within the hip young marketing department.