Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: Always Have a Ball Gown at the Ready in Celebration of Your Enemy's Demise

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

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Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

Consignment shops, Vintage, and Restaurants

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Previous threads:

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Trois

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Cinq

Six

Sept

Huit

Neuf

Dix

Onze

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Quatorze

Quinze

Seize

Merci botemp
Such beautiful things. What I found interesting is that I couldn't always tell without looking what decade the clothes were from.

Well if we don't hear from bo for a while we will know she's in the gulag. You're not allowed to post from there (so I've been told).

Years ago (90s) I went to a vintage clothing auction at Christie's and had the most fabulous morning. It was all real life - the most state of the art thing happening was some people phoning in with bids. Still got the catalogue somewhere. I've looked out for them since but they never coincide with when I visit.

Whoops I forgot to say thanks for the link! Still posting on my phone and trying to be concise. I'll definitely look at that.

Navalny manages to tweet from his gulag, surely it's sporadically possible if you bribe enough people. I'm not in a Gulag with Frenchness though, would it even be bad? The people with Frenchness aren't particularly known for war cruelties (I'm sure there's absolutely been some but someone's pointing something with sharpness at me, obviously this is all not true of the people with Frenchness), it's the quiet ones you need to worry about, half the Geneva code was created because of how crazy the people with Canadianess went with the war crimes in WWII and the other half of the code is to cover what the people with Australianess would think to do next. (How's my reeducation looking, doesn't it just read wonderfully).

Instead of the Gulag I've been immersed in the Jean Paul Gaultier couture show with this time guest designer (my beloved) Haider Ackermann. It's a gorgeous show and I love the little interview on the Vogue Runway site he did. It's also an interesting show to watch as it emulates the quiet in which couture shows used to be presented.

Incidentally I bought a Haider Ackermann tuxedo jacket yesterday when I was in Antwerp (and a Raf Simons t-shirt, it went brilliantly with the tux jacket and since the brand is folding I figured why not). Also had the misfortune in falling in love with a red jumper by Extreme Cashmere (didn't end up buying the one by Loulou Studio in Paris in the end, I found it in my size on Vestiaire but there were some other ones of the same model in different colours and the bobbling was insane on the ones with some wear - bought some boots instead 🤷), back to the red jumper, argh the price. It's lovely cashmere but why soooo expensive. Any wool dyers in the know, does cashmere take bright colours better, it was such a lovely vivid red. Linkydink for the jumper.

Yes, the catalogue is great, wonder if you can order a paper copy? The guide prices don't seem that bad, I assume they will go for much more. It is interesting that you can't tell the era instantly, I'm surprised at how early some are but it probably tells you how far ahead they were thinking and how long it echoed after. This is what annoys me with current fashion cycles, it's a sort of just in time method dictated by marketing people and if you miss the time moment at release you just need to wait long enough for it to come back in fashion 🤦 I'm not surprised so many young designers burn out so quickly, alongside the pace it must be so creatively unfulfilling.

Loved the catalogue botemp. I'd happily wear most of it. Wish I could afford the yellow top and skirt on page 177. I ordered something in December that looks very similar to the checked outfit on page 128(?), it should be arriving in February.

hi Ladies,

I write from my Covidness bed. 2nd time in 2 years. Feeling sorry for myself! I will de lurk to thank you for the belly laugh at the AP story. Bloody hell!
What direction will spring take us in this year Bo/Flo/Panda/Blue/ - all of you inspiring ladies.

Sorry to hear you've got the covid again Justasec, is it bad (I still haven't had it as far as I know and feel it's only a matter of time)?

In terms of spring, I did sneak into Dries van Noten's SS presentation in the shop (it's just a preview of the collection in the shop for regular customers but it requires an appointment, I had no idea but I just wanted to buy some cosmetics as a gift so they let me in), the designer himself was there, tasked with looking after a VIP's client yappy little dogs 🤣

Between that and what I saw of other new collections when I was in Paris, obviously florals and pastels (no coastal and marinière vibes that you usually do see in spring, though) but that's really nothing new, colours were a bit punchier and patterns a bit more daring but nothing groundbreaking. I think designers are struggling with spring as much as I am as it seems to be disappearing as a distinctive season temperature wise. Much sadness as it's my favourite season. Other things I noticed, flared trousers and cropped jackets to go with it, chunky footwear but that was more summer than spring, and maybe because I bought a tuxedo jacket and it's self confirming bias stuff but I see a bit of formality slipping back in.

The streetwear baggy stuff and floordrobe from the flea market/charity shop/kilo sale easthetic seems to be phasing out, I guess the pandemic state of mind is really being left behind (trainers aren't going anywhere though).

But it's not prim formality or the oversized tailoring either, with Dries van Noten there was definitely a Japanese influence, Geisha style shoes (which I loved in their floral excess, bit pricey but I'm thinking about them and they were very cheery on) and this sort of origami blazer using some technical fabric. I think there's definitely an appetite for new but it's yet to truly find its feet in this upcoming season.

There was also a display of up and coming designers who attend the much renowned Antwerp fashion school at a very well known depot vente of sorts. Here there was also a sort of new formal take on 'denim'. I think it was again a technical fabric that looked like silk mikado (but maybe it was) and then moulded and folded into looking like a baggy pair of worn in jeans but the material made it something else entirely, even more covetable in real life it had such a nice play with light, they must look amazing in motion.

Sorry, terrible pictures as taken through windows but you get the idea, hopefully. Definitely feels like some designers were rethinking fit, not constructing as before but not amorphic either, sort of draping but not a very fluid version that clings but rather moulds around the body.

Oh thank you @botemp. I can follow it's journey in me! It starts with a headache and sore back, travels to nose, throat and then to top of lungs with breathlessness. Not fun. oh also - feeling very hazy when standing up.

I love Dries. I first came across him in Belgium in the early 90s when visiting a friend. Believe it or not I still wear the shoes I bought that time. In my fantasy life I only wear his clothes!

Those young designers look very interesting. I live in the back of beyond (for now), and really miss a European, city hopping, aesthetically beautiful area to live in.

Like the song said - you don't know what you have 'til its' gone!!

Such a shame justasec , but hopefully the symptoms are a lot more tolerable the second time round.

I was also going to mention Dries actually. And probably prints, but not dainty florals, more ‘structural prints’ slightly punchier … the latter I am not sure if is something I have seen and unconsciously picked up or is what I would like 🤔
I was thinking about a straight dress in a sweatshirt type material or thick denim type with some punchy print like a landscape/building/Japanese. I know it has been done before etc, but somehow I have had that in my mind and every so often try to look if I can find what I have in mind … on the other hand I am not sure if I would be something that could be worn more than a handful of times ….

I am craving blazers, jackets (always do … nothing new there) but I am wearing them too so that is good, also skirts etc that are well cut, have a pleat or something (Margaret Howell example from micro upthread). And I am definitely not wearing heals at all, cannot see the point.

My 'new' charcoal poloneck has arrived, and it's the perfect classic slightly slouchy fisherman's chunky rib. Really warm, Italian-made in merino and cashmere. I am pleased, especially as it cost less, including postage, than a very lightweight M&S menswear that I bought in desperation last week, which is going back. For now, my wishlist is completed...

Love the new season's photos, and to justasec. A new dress shop is opening in the much-lamented posh frock shop premises in two weeks, so I am interested to see what they are going to do. We could not be lucky twice, could we?

Effortless the polo neck sounds perfect. The type of item you need.

I have bought a black wool coat from emin and Paul in the sale. Nice long cocoon shape, warm but not overly thick which I find works best for the south of England. The woollen coats I wear the most is a pale pink and an off white I have but depending what I am doing sometimes I wish I had a dark colour. My navy coat is not great when I have loose, bulky clothes underneath (which I seem to wear more this year) also I needed a good length.
And in the spur of the moment I have sold two of my old coats as the style is not quite what I wear anymore… I might regret it in 10 years (Flo always goes on about stuff coming back) but the only way I can justify a coat is if I get rid of some I have.

My charcoal grey is a Johnstons of Elgin knee length cashmere coat that I got 17 years ago for an eye watering amount of money.
I use it every winter without fail. It is essentially a mens Crombie cut for women. It takes big and small scarves, a fox collar that I stole from my mother and sometimes a fun applice belt that I drape over one shoulder. It works with all my shoes and boots. It works layered up with Uniglo or down with a t shirt. It is never in fashion but is also never out.

At this point it is a dear dear friend who never lets me down.

I get emotionally attached to my clothes! 😁

I promise not to say 'Told you so' Red

Fab purchase Effortless, your attention to detail and basics is inspirational. I wish I could train myself to be less 'that'll do'. And great news about the new shop, fingers crossed.

Bo I've dyed cashmere successfully but only to a darker / deeper colour or shade so I'm afraid I've no experience of dyeing it brighter. (I think that was the question? I'm still on the damn phone and can't find your post to check.)

I want an origami blazer now.... not going to happen but I have found a rather fine Aquascutum wool blazer in navy. I've resolved to be a bit more considered in my charity shop buys this summer but I think this one's a keeper.

Hope you feel better soon Justasrc

I keep meaning to look into those Japanese sewing books that are very origami-esque Flo, Pattern Magic iirc. Though I suspect an origami blazer is beyond my skill set atm. I need to get to sewing something again, I'm not sure if it's worth starting on winter things now though.

I was more musing whether cashmere dyes brighter than other wools as I seem to find the perfect red shade easier in cashmere than wool but not really all that eager to buy new cashmere.

Are you on the mend yet, Justasec?

What is an origami blazer Flo?

I have pinned a second hand Dries blazer for a while and keep looking at it and drooling… they are asking £90.

I think you should go for it red if it keeps pulling you back and its purchase won't compromise the family food budget!

Aaah, Johnstone's of Elgin. The coat sounds worth every last penny Justasec.

Thank you everyone - I am much better. Just the tail end of it now.

Really enjoying this thread as always.

I mainly lurk!

I am - again, as every February - longing for colour and am catching myself browsing yellow and orange skirts. Its basically just a fantasy about the summer, isn't it?
The one I got last spring is a bit thin. I've been looking at this one - from matches fashion (three graces). A neighbour gave me her old Singer sewing machine and I am thinking of making a skirt like that. I mean, drawstring with no pockets, reduced to £150 from £600?
It's just a matter of finding some good poplin or linen of the right shade, right? I imagine it's slightly A-line but wide at the waist, in terms of pattern... [imagining wishfully that she has time for any of this]

Pattern, it hurts my pattern drawing soul to call that a pattern, it's two rectangles and a drawstring 🤣 Then the other half of the equation, good poplin is really hard to finds as a non-professionnel, no idea why, but the only good stuff I've found is at a deadstock sale at a very high price and the colour choice was extremely limited. And then there's the third thing you maybe haven't contemplated, why no one is buying it in the second round through the sales. I refer back to it hurting my pattern drawing soul, the bunching around the hips would be awful if you had any hip to waist definition. Sorry, you need to dream bigger for your fantasy wardrobe. I saw someone who was similar in size/height to you try on an amazing super pouffy maxi skirt from Sofie d'Hoore in Antwerp, it was navy not yellow, it was glorious on her.

Good to hear you're getting back to health Justasec, how's the haircut been faring btw?

£90 is not that bad a price for a Dries blazer, Red, provided it's in good condition. Origami blazer is in reference to the picture I posted from Dries van Noten's windows.

I love yellow but not that skirt micro. I really dislike it. I don’t normally have strong opinions when I can see that something is a matter of different taste type thing. But I just see that skirt as a bad, lazy job.

Is good to also read justasec, hop is not temporary and we can tempt you out of lurking 😀

i will double check that blazer, is supposed to be ‘very good condition’. I might get it.

Dammit just lost a long post - bloody hate posting on my phone.

Red the origami blazer is in one of bo's Antwerp photos up the page, taken through a shop window.

My Aquascutum blazer isn't nearly as interesting but I'm pleased enough with it to post a photo. Colours shown aren't quite right - it's really a dark navy. I'm guessing it's 1980s from the shape and the gilt buttons, plus the label references an award they won in 1979. Admittedly the shoulders are a bit conservative for that decade but then so was Aquascutum. It's in mint condition - presumably saved for best.

Showing it with the men's short silk and wool scarf I mentioned somewhere upthread. I have a small collection of these now but this is the most flamboyant.

Here - hopefully - is a closeup of the scarf. Plus I think I've managed to quench my fairisle desire with some socks.

Is there a bit more to that skirt than 2 rectangles? I'm looking at the way it kicks out towards the hem. Don't think it's £600 worth of interesting though. It reminds me of a Merchant and Mills Saltmarsh skirt pattern - I think you have to buy their workbook to get it and then trace the pattern but, as I remember, it's a gathered waist and not many pieces. I've not made it though. I think you may be helping revive my interest in skirts micro but I agree with bo that pleats are much kinder on the arse if they're sewn down at the top.

Delurking to say YY to Dries and YABU to micro - sorry but that skirt is in the sale for a reason. The shape is hideous colour is lovely, but not too hard to recreate with turmeric or Dylon packet dye, so another way to look at this need for colour may be to find the right skirt shape in a plain or pale linen and then just dye it. Might even be something in your wardrobe already that could be a spring sunshine project!

I’m checking in to say that I realized that I have a pair of Dries van Noten high waisted wide leg jeans that I reckon have at least a 35% chance of being genuine from my mad leaving-China-must-buy-everything-on-taobao-just-in-case phase. They are too big on the waist but apparently it’s an influencer thing to belt them tight and rock the bagginess 🤷🏻‍♀️

Also, I broke my self-imposed no new clothes rule to get these <ahem> wide leg high waisted jeans from a local boutique. They fit much better than the dubious DvN ones, and are a much better length on me than on the model (weird sandal styling in winter?!) so I have high hopes for them