Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: Always Have a Ball Gown at the Ready in Celebration of Your Enemy's Demise

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

---

Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

Consignment shops, Vintage, and Restaurants

---

Previous threads:

Un

Deux

Trois

Quatre

Cinq

Six

Sept

Huit

Neuf

Dix

Onze

Douze

Treize

Quatorze

Quinze

Seize

Oh gosh duvet, that sounds like you’ve had a tough ride. I hope the diagnosis and treatment bring some relief for you. Good to know about cyberjammies. Maybe a few pillows in a skin-flattering shade might help.

Im sorry to ignore everyone else’s news but I’ll jump back in and try to catch up as I go along.

I’m not surprised that Celine have doubled sales. Although I’m not a Hedi fan what’s making it to the racks is very very saleable. You’ve the logo caps, belts and t-shirt plus some streetwear items e.g. cropped tees to appeal to the younger crowd and at a lower price point. Then the knits and 70s-luxe stuff for the older buyer. I went to look for photos from 22 on vogue and, finding none, found this instead: https://wwd.com/business-news/media/whats-going-on-with-celine-and-vogue-1235018263/

Botemp very kindly pointed me to some deeply discounted Peter Do trousers which have arrived, fit, and deep breath need to be taken up. It’s a Christmas miracle.

I’ve bought very little lately. I am thinking about some sleek black loafers.

Belated thanks for the answer to the trousers query, bo. And mm, you are right. It seems each pair of trousers demands their own length, depending on the shoes, top, your body proportions, etc

Elle, which Peter Do trousers did you get, are they voluminous burgundy?

Interesting link, Elle. I though Wintour almost departed a few years ago...

They arrived quick Elle, or maybe I'm losing track of time. Probably the latter, December is a ride. I'm glad they fit, even with length to spare. I think they do a bit of unisex designing so maybe that explains the extra length as well as the odd sizing.

Interesting article, where's the businessy fashion gossip channel/blog when you need one. I enjoy the fashion law but there the focus really is on the intersection of law and the fashion industry, no reporting on petty beefs with business consequences.

I'm still not convinced doubling sales at Celine is all that impressive, I also forgot they expanded to men's. Obviously that wouldn't double sales instantly on its own but considering Slimane's cult following for men's wear that should have brought in more sales. There do seem to be a lot of vacancies among the luxury houses atm so I wonder if he'll move in the inevitable musical chairs. And where is Phoebe Philo, she was supposed to launch her brand at the beginning of this year, and nothing

I guess that Phoebe Philo, who I suspect is very very sensible, is waiting for the economic uptick. I don't think I would be pressing any go button right now.

On the other hand, everyone's reporting the %% rise is luxury sales. Champaign's stocks are apparently selling out fast, and the luxury market age range expanded to 15+ who apparently are driving the sales. Maybe Phoebe is not ready to design for 15 yo? 😵

Hmm, maybe the UK was excluded from this but late 2021, early 2022 economies were doing surprisingly well and supply was struggling to meet demand and find/retain staff so I suspect PP's startup issues are more related to setting up steady and reliable supply lines and staff than the economy. It's also why it seems things like champagne are selling out quicker. COL crisis is definitely disproportionally affecting lower and middle incomes.

There do seem to be a lot of young luxury buyers stories out atm. Mostly about young people still living at home and buying high priced luxury goods. It all sounds a bit avocado toast outrage to me tbh. I do think social media has made luxury goods purchases a lot more normalised, so there definitely is a trend but I don't think it's that impactful. Luxury goods are still mainly seeing growth in sales in Asia and the Middle East.

On the topic of young luxury buyers in Asia, the main dynamic in large cities in China when I was there was that young people had no need to save anything and could spend a huge chunk of their paycheck on eating out and the latest fashion / tech tchotchkes.

Courtesy of the One Child Policy, there is a ‘golden generation’ who will inherit at least three properties (one from parents and each set of grandparents) and often considerably more, setting them up very comfortably. This gives them a huge disposable income to spend on luxuries and at least partly explains why brands are focusing their efforts there beyond the ‘1 billion consumers’ nonsense.

Post-Covid, China has had nearly 2 years of closed borders with all of the mad tourist spending in Paris, Milan, London now happening domestically. I imagine many Asian markets are similar… Wonder how much of this growth is cannibalised sales from Europe?

Yes the voluminous burgundy ones with a steep discount. I'll try to post a picture later. Delivery was next day with DHL and I had enough points to get a year of free shipping which, considering it's €25 a pop, is a great deal. I was bemoaning to botemp that I had traded my LVR points for €100 of credit only to find that the credit could only be used against full price items, no stacking of discounts so it was really restrictive. She helpfully suggested looking at their beauty stuff. I didn't need anything for me but did get a few Diptyque candles which will be handy over Christmas and, yes I know there's an SNL skit about the ubiquitous candle gift, but a stash of emergency candles never went amiss. There's always someone I've forgotten.

That's really interesting about the golden generation Shangpai. Interested to see the impact on tourism when borders reopen.

I liked that link to Material. I'd never heard of the shop and like the premise. Was pleased to see they stock Inis Meain knitwear. I've been living in a navy baby alpaca /silk knit I got in the factory shop in the summer.

Very interesting. I somehow imagined lots of big logo-ed items sales and silly balenciaga things were also driven by younger european and american markets, not only south asian.

Mind you, if I am ever in a sale I just follow south asian women and take what they put back. It's usually the best item of what's available.

Elle, let me know how you decide to hem the burgundy trousers. I was grappling with mine today. They are very long and require a lot of take in, maybe 13 cm (?) which is huge and then because they are a barrel leg I can't just stitch them normally as the bottom is narrower than the leg part I am stitching to. And I can't bear to cut them... They are beautifully finished. Dilemma!

I was in selfridges shoe area a few days ago and a young teen/older child (couldn’t work their accent) was there telling her mum she wanted to try “These!” And where some £££s combat boots with studs / shiny bits. So the above chat of the very young driving a lot of the sales sounds right.

I am sad to report that the celtic and co boots are going back. I opened the box and found them with what looks like scratch marks , quite a few of them and not part of a distressed look, but just looks scratched and not right . I took photos and immediately sent them to their customer service so to ensure they saw how they arrived.
To be honest it did put me off a bit and cannot be bothered to change them, so is a return.

Interesting about the golden generation, Shangpie. I assume this is a small contingent of society (socioeconomic upper middle class?) but with the size of the Chinese population still a large number. I keep getting told the Chinese economy is a paper tiger though and there's a mortgages scandal brewing, if true, that would wipe out that generation?

I think we also have to speculate that the wealthy Russians that haven't been sanctioned to destitution can still travel to ME and Asia and there's also quite a lively smuggling trade. Apparently a 30k 'luxury' Chinese car goes for three times that in Russia now

I also recently read about Mango moving most of its manufacturing out of China and closer to home (Turkey and Morocco) in the FT. Mostly off the back of Covid but also the new global order, they had an interesting strategy of getting basics made further away and trend items closer to home so if anything takes off they can quickly restock.

I haven't seen the SNL sketch Elle, but I'm sure a nice candle will still be appreciated. I was browsing back looking for a Materiel shop, but I've just twigged you were talking about Manufactum which I linked myself 🤦 I'm not sure if they have a specific Irish site but otherwise you can order through the German site. They used to send me the most beautiful catalogues that were not great for my bank account.

Ah, you've emerged Red, did they have a day off in Argentina to celebrate as well, or just for the hangovers . Are these boots a continuing search, I remember you sending some Grensons back last year?

😁days off to celebrate and hangovers. Yes!

haha, you remember well Bo so grenson and Celtic are not for me. Anyhow, yeah you could say I am tentatively looking for boots, but when I see some I will know they are the ones. The other issue with me is also that I feel overly chunky boots are too much for my ‘legs’ and ‘style’ , I need something with decent grip. We know Flo raves about solovair, but sadly they are not for me either.

Free days for football 😎 they really do love their football. I remember my first time in Buenos Aires and the taxi driver that drove us from the airport immediately wanted to chat football when answering we were from The Netherlands, talked endlessly about Johan Cruijff, think we also drove under a bridge that said something rude in graffiti about NL that was football rivalry related.

Not liking the look of chunky boots probably answers my musings about why you were looking for hiking boots at fashion brands. Have you looked at boy's Timberland boots? I know a few petite women that like them as they don't look massive on. They're not the classic Timberland boots but more like the picture you posted, just a more proper outdoor sole.

DS has bought today, with his Christmas bonus, a pair of RedWing boots, which he reckons will do 20 years service with proper care. While he is a man, and therefore not subject to fashion whims in the same way (two pairs of boots, black and brown) and two pairs of brogues (black and tan) plus trainers seem to cover most of his immediate needs. He thinks these are the final step in his footwear wardrobe and if he needs to replace any shoes, it won't be for five or 10 years. He's probably correct, but at 23 he has spent almost £1200 on four pairs of shoes to last him 20 years-ish. I know I trained him but still!

I finally made it out shopping, though in a wheelchair and steered in any direction but nice clothes shops by DH - which was fine (hmmmmm) we had 4 hours to do all our christmas shopping.

We did check out the new Flannels that has reached Belfast.
We are always very far behind anywhere with luxury goods, but looking at who was actually buying and a lot of the clothing being purchased was flashy branded luxe sportswear - by the types of people Belfast was/is famous for but now run drugs not bombs.

It was slightly unsettling just being surrounded by lots of "hard" men dropping lots of cash so we left quicker than we'd planned to as the atmosphere was just ugly. I'm sure it'll be OK on a quiet Weekday after Christmas as I am keen to have a good snoop about.

So there is one market for the designer goods.

SNL skit -

Damn I did mean Manufactum. My brain has turned to mush trying to keep my Christmas to do list straight!

I think that Flannels has been there at least 2 years 70s. I'll let you in on a secret though. Yes, it's mainly stocked with absolutely garish, bling bling offerings, but they also stock Celine and it doesn't seem to sell well because at sale time you'll often find it discounted, even the classic belts and bags which I've never seen on sale in other stores. Have you tried Envoy? It has a well curated selection.

Elle it has, I just haven't left the house since February of this year and last year I was being so so good with my only buy 2nd hand so I didn't dare go in - well I did have a little look in Feb but it was still like an ordinary Frazers shop floor with designer mixed in with normal labels.

But the refit is very nice, just the clientele on Tuesday were off-putting. Good tip about Celine thank you, i did also see a nice botega veneta belt in their bright green that was discounted already - but DH whizzed me past (im going with on purpose)

Yes Envoy is a lovely shop, the staff are great too.

Xing DS is doing well in knowing his finery just always remind him of the rule of peacocking....never throw anything away

I am pretty sure I got The Candle a couple of years ago in a secret santa, surely must be near Flo or even Bani now 😆
That clip is gold Elle.

Going to real shops Duvet that is very satisfying a treat, and also because you were doing the second hand buy before you became more ill.

Your DS has been brought up very well Xing, great choice.

Bo the boys timberlands might be what I need. Actually after all my boot search a few months ago I got proper walking boots by Scarpa, as I really cannot live without a proper pair. So I had stopped looking for some, but the icy conditions a few weeks ago renewed my interest but this time in something with grip but that can see me into town or even the office (which tends to be relaxed if is icy/snowy), as I have a mile walk to and from the station and also a mile into my town. It wouldn’t be an issue but I live on a hill which is steep, so I find that it would be useful in autumn when the leaves are on the floor and instead of crispy gold are turned into brown wet mush or in the 2 weeks a year when we have ice in the UK. So this time my criteria was less walking boots but more practical 🥾 boots. Clearly not a desperate need as I am still here walking up and down that hill …

Ah, yes duvet, the questionable 'always pay in cash' market, it's a lucrative one. Flannels is an odd place, whoever designed their London shop deserves to be shot, my aesthetic sensibilities weren't all that triggered (just twitched slightly) but my pragmatic architect instincts were, who the fuck needs six different floor types with clunky transitions in a 100m2 footprint and a few were really uncomfortable under foot. The guard at the door was very friendly and nice though, wasn't bewildered like most when I greeted him (I always forget everyone ignores them in the UK). Their online outlet has some great bargains though and often additional discounts but they're notoriously shit with returns and often refuse to honour them (it's a Mile Ashley establishment after all) so only order if you definitely want to keep it.

I always feel like a such a sourpuss but I just don't find SNL sketches funny 🤷 I think our local equivalent is fancy body wash (or anything Rituals, no way are people spending fancy scented candle money on anyone they're not directly related to), ugh, and I've always been taught it's rude to gift someone anything fragranced (implying they smell/need a good wash) but I don't want that body wash either, so bad manners it is...

Ha ha I've done that (passed on the Christmas candle). I got some excellent comedy glasses in my final office secret Santa.

Pleased to hear you managed a real shopping trip 70s.
Sorry about your boots Red.
Very impressed by your son's taste Xing.

Thanks everyone for the kind comments on DS's boots. I feel I should claim some of the credit as I was the person who directed him to the RedWings website. He now insists that it's down to Terry Pratchett and the Sam Vymes economic theory. And he's on tenterhooks for DHL to deliver by tomorrow morning... he may be disappointed.

I hated Flannels the only time I set foot in the place, not least because of the sneering SA who clearly thought I was too old to be allowed in!

I hope for DS sake they do Xing and alert him to the delivery.

I felt really rotten as I got an alert on vinted from a lovely seller who I had bought DS a fantastic leather jacket from. Once it arrived I realised I should have bought the bigger size for my nephew, so did. Anyway the delivery service had squeezed the parcel between the fence and the bin a week ago and I had no notification until she asked me last night to release the funds and I had to send DH out looking for it.
Why can they not just leave a card?
I thought it was just delayed with Christmas and postal strikes.

Though a few years ago an eBay package was put in the bin (wtf) on bin day and never seen again.

I think your DS is right though, we've spoken before about how some people are harder on clothes than others. DH is a disaster but now he only buys Barker or Loague shoes (except for trainers where he likes Camper) he now has long lasting shoes, which can of course be resoled.

Trying to find jeans that won't wear through at the thigh for him if anyone has any ideas? He is an ex Hooker in rugby, so basically short, squat and huge thighs.

I didn't read on past ex Hooker , seeing as I'm as unknowledgeable about rugby as I am football I'll be googling rugby hookers, pray for my search history...

Is he wearing through 100% cotton denim as well? Anything with stretch tends to wear through quicker. Maybe look at some Workwear brands like Carhartt and Dickies that have 'rugged' hard wearing jeans.

Edwin Jeans 70sDuvet? I have heard good things. Or Hiut which have several shapes suited to rugby players -- at eye-watering prices.

We've re-arranged our travel, as the roads out of here are already gridlocked, and will travel before the cock crows tomorrow... so DS will get his delivery! Merry Christmas to all Mariannes.

Blackhorse Lane attelier also very good, hard wearing denim and they will also do a repair service but I am pretty sure you will have to wear and wear for years to get to that.
talking about Hiut I found a pair on my second hand charity shop pristine condition at £38, which I got. Just slim straight, perfect to replace my Levi’s on daily walks with dog when wearing boots. (BTW, the Levi’s I have after 4 years they start to have wear on the crotch area and I don’t wear jeans from May to September or very rarely).

Wish you all the merriest of Christmas 🎄 🤶 🍷 🍾 🎄