Les Parisiennes des Mamansnet: "You gotta have style. It helps you get down the stairs." - Diana Vreeland

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

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Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

Consignment shops, Vintage, and Restaurants

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Les Parisiennes de Mamansnet shop

I am so underwhelmed by that +J preview too.
I am finding myself craving colour as well, I have recently bought this Arket cardigan www.arket.com/en_gbp/women/knitwear/product.alpaca-merino-cardigan-blue.0584165022.html
that I have been wearing with other blue things :)

I agree with @botemp, colour can look really flat on fabrics that are not good quality. I have been going down fabric website rabbit holes recently (Cloth House and Merchant and Mills in particular) and ordering swatches of colourful and indigo fabrics, the colour is deep, saturated and somehow alive. Not that it extends to fabrics suitable for trousers. Cotton twills all come in black, navy and rust if you're lucky.

Haha @banivani I have a Danish friend who always complains about everyone in Copenhagen wearing all black. Grey is a pop of colour there, she said.

Interesting seeing all ideas about what you think people are going to wear after the restrictions blow over. I did buy a pair of joggers early on, but still never go out in them, or for WFH. I am so bored of seeing them all over webshops and The Guardian running an editorial on joggers every week. I bought two (wideish, hip length) sweatshirts which is actually a revelation, I was a 100% knit girl, but their structure really works on my body and with things I like to wear (cropped trousers, or a-line mid length skirts). They also lend themselves to being dressed with pie crust collars, scarves and chains but keeping the whole look non-precious and casual.

I'm finding my style at home to be going into unhinged category, without social context of office, restaurant etc everything goes, silk dresses and yellow pumps, voluminous-skirt dress with a bodice that a friend copied from me from an Aquascutum collection from 2006 and that was always over the top for any occasion. I even started dressing children in half fancy dress half Little Lord Fountleroy style. My 3 year old was wearing a pinstripe vest with his leggings yesterday. I do need to get out.

Well at this rate I'll have +J all to myself I mean I do like colour and I avoid black, white and most neutrals but quite honestly, after the year I've had, the last thing I feel like is being force fed jaunty clothing.

luggage that link just takes me to Arket home page.

Ah Gap - it used to be my favourite shop and I still have some Pima cotton Ts that must be 12 years old now. But then both the local branches closed and all we have now is an outlet store that makes B&M Bargains look up-market. I never look at their website cos it just reminds me what a great shop it used to be.

@Floisme it's all yours. There may be some surprises when they release the full collection, or we are just able to look at the products without the styling. The coat I bought from the winter collection wasn't the one I originally intended when they released the collection campaign but seeing it just on its own was a revelation. I love it every time I wear it.

Strange you can't see the cardigan, it takes me to product page when I click the link. Here's a picture of it.

I think for me the clothes are not about cheerfulness, it's pretty much the only escape I have at the moment, and a creative outlet when I'm sewing (well, I've been playing with patterns and toiles so far mostly), I really can't face any more screen based entertainment.

@luggageandbags that tone of blue is one of my absolute favourite colours for clothes and really suits my complexion.
@Floisme, I will take the plunge with that MH dress, is going up in price though... so hopefully I will get it. Is 50-50 cotton - linen.
In terms of basics tees and tops I rate jigsaw in the medium price type category. But surprised to see they only have in white their ballerina top this year.

Thanks luggage I like that - think I've seen it in green too?

I agree about creativity and yeah having the time to get to grips with sewing again after a very long lay off has been an unexpected bonus of this year for me. I guess I'm just not ready for regulation joyfulness.

I hope the god of EBay is with you Red, fingers crossed.

Luggage, that cardigan has popped its head up in my threads too... I had been thinking the ballet wrap needs a cardi to go over it, and the only one I have is ancient linen Laura Ashley, which will work well for summer but as much use as a chocolate fireguard right now.

Good luck on EBay, red... it looks a lovely shape.

Ah, I hear you on that front Flo, I am very much dreading the forced fun police we'll have to endure. There will be someone (sorry it's always a woman) who keeps saying, isn't this nice? Aren't we having just the best time? And you kind of want to bark, no, it bloody isn't but instead you'll politely nod and calculate how long you'll have to endure before it's polite enough to leave. I honestly fear it'll be that but worse as we all have to collude in this idea that it's so nice to be together again because we've been apart for so long even though we were never really that close to begin with (obviously this does not apply to people you're actually close to). I'm expecting it to be awkward mostly, certain things will definitely require getting used to.

I've completely forgotten what an actual busy day in the city centre feels like, my measure of what constitutes crowded now is probably inadequate and it may very well turn out that the things I think I'm missing the most really aren't as fun as I remembered them and built up to higher expectations than can be met. Sheesh, I'm a downer. Soz.

Luggage, I often find that the fabric you think you want that only comes in basic colours is not the one you really want as it is considered rather basic in fashion terms and you'd only use it as a brand because it's cheap so there's something better out there. An alternative I'd look at that comes in more colours is cotton gabardine or cotton cavalry twill (although that's back to uniform colours, because it's used in actual uniforms, but makes great trousers), gabardine is apparently a mare to work with though.

That’s interesting @botemp, really good point. I have been looking for wool and linen blends for spring trousers but so far the only one I find in a colour I like is loosely woven and transparent. Any recommendations for places to look for fabric?

@XingMing it's a lovely cardigan if you need any encouragement :). I have really struggled finding the perfect cardigan, they tend to be either oversized or too fitted, this one is a happy medium, and also, for me, the perfect length (mid hip). It also holds shape well (I don't like too floppy cardis on me), yet the yarn makes it soft and fluffy. Ticks all the boxes :)

@Floisme yes they have them in green (sage), in fact I have the same colour v neck jumper from a couple of years ago and it's a great colour.

I've been moving from UK shops to European ones, Luggage, the prices have increased but so has the quality, I've found some amazing linens now but I assume it's not worth it from the UK.

In the UK I bought from jobbers, Iana fabrics is quick and has a varied assortment and a free sample service (on their own site, you also get a discount on there automatically on Etsy you're charged and shipping was more expensive), they have some handwoven Harris tweeds ATM for quite a low price for handwoven HT. I would say I'm glad I started out buying cheaper fabrics there because I sort of learned from my mistakes, things that looked good as a sample weren't as weighty as I had anticipated, etc. Even if I could still easily buy from the UK I think I'd have moved on with somewhat better knowledge (although they're great for silks, if have continued buying those there) but I'm glad I didn't make those miscalculations with more expensive fabrics and they do have some really good gems and non boring colours but there's not much information (weight, composition you often need to ask, etc). There's a beautiful silk/wool sienna fabric on there that I'm kicking myself for not purchasing pre Brexit 🤦

I never ordered but TheFabricMan on Etsy has some good wool suiting deals, mostly boring colours but occasionally a punchy colour no one wants.

Croft Mill always looked good to me too which I think is also a jobber but of branded fabrics.

Amofabrics is quite interesting, you buy from manufacturers directly, they're cancelled orders or deadstock. It's from all over Europe but the best stuff seems to be in the UK and they often didn't send abroad (even pre-Brexit) there were some nice linens on there IIRC. Just be mindful some things are furniture fabrics, especially with linen that's a difference in feel. You could request samples but they don't always have them for everything.

Black Horse Lane also sells fabric under "Haberdashery", thick cotton twill and denim, they have a scant few non denim colours, they have an interesting light-ish green that could work well for spring.

And Joel and Son have some gorgeous things and a lot of colour. It might be worth getting some samples just to see what top quality looks like when you put samples side by side. But I will warn, having done this, you're suddenly justifying extortionate prices...

Thanks for that @botemp, I only knew about Croft Mill before, so will check them all out.
Had a quick click through Joel and Son website, some cottons are £109 per metre, don't dare click on the cashmere. Eeek!

Yes thanks for those suggestions bo I may not be in the league for Joel and Son, and probably never will be but, now I'm a bit more confident, I think it's time to start seeking out better fabrics. I saw when I made that last shirt what a difference it makes. What's the problem with sewing cotton gabardine by the way? I don't think I've ever used it but I'd have had it down as reasonably straightforward.

Yes Joel and Son is when it comes to prices and their European fabrics are sold at quite a premium compared to here. But I do find it helpful to have a range of prices to compare so you sort of get what comes at a premium and what isn't worth paying extra for (patterned things seem to vastly increase price and they're rarely nice patterns to begin with). I still struggle to find stiffer fabrics though, anything drapey is easy to find but something with a stiffer feel that will hold shape is hard to find unless you're interested in occasion wear 🤷 although I think upgrading to a professional heavy duty iron might make a slight difference here.

I've now found a lot of Parisian addresses that sell roll ends from the haute couture houses, I'm so curious what that is like and am desperate to see it I wouldn't mind a nose around Joel and Son either

I keep forgetting to post what I came here for, my Joseph joggers (soz Luggage for returning to more jogger talk) came in Monday and the lambskin leather is absolutely gorgeous but I understand why the previous owner never wore them much thanks to my miniscule sewing knowledge.

The loose lining has zero stretch (twill weave, normally a great sturdy choice for lining trousers) and they've attached it at the waist (which is super stretchy) with a really stiff and strong thread and it just doesn't move together well, it's like you're wearing two pairs of trousers, one really stiff that doesn't move with the body and getting it on and off is a pain as they're working against each other.

So I've removed the lining , the seams of which were already protesting and starting to pull apart it would only be a matter of time before they'd give completely. I'd rather replace it when I can still easily replicate and will have to replace it with a stretch lining because it's now vacuum sucking itself to my body and looking more like leggings (pic is from when I removed the lining, didn't take any with lining still in, the shoes are a questionable choice).

I'm tempted to go with silk for the lining in honour of Bani's fictional protagonist but probably better to go with cupro as that's anti static and I'll have less of the sucking to body issues (although I don't really mind the look either, I wasn't anticipating super roomy joggers, it's the right amount of slouch for my preferences).

Flo, I don't know myself, but I have a book (Vintage Couture Tailoring) by a really experienced couturier and he keeps dropping at random how gabardine is a pain in the arse to work with (he clearly has a personal vendetta) but doesn't really elaborate. The best I can guess is that it's slippy and stiff which each have their issues to consider and you don't usually see together?

I also have a book lined up called Burberry Days by someone that worked there for years, perhaps he'll enlighten me as to why, but I have gotten the impression that among tailors and couturiers the Burberry trench is held in high esteem for the technical difficulty of making one so there must be something to it.

So I've removed the lining, the seams of which were already protesting and starting to pull apart it would only be a matter of time before they'd give completely. I'd rather replace it when I can still easily replicate and will have to replace it with a stretch lining because it's now vacuum sucking itself to my body and looking more like leggings

Hope you don’t mind a lurker jumping in here. I love the sound of your Joseph joggers (I covert these but went for the faux leather as they were cheap and doesn’t matter if I don’t wear them much!) The reason yours would be lined with non stretch is to help the leather keep its shape. If you put in a stretch lining then the knees and bum will eventually sag from sitting and bending in them as the non-stretch lining stops the leather being stretched too far if that makes sense. Similar to a wool coat) Especially if it is gorgeous soft lambskin. May be something very lightweight but without the stretch would be best? (Sorry, ex fashion student feeing like they needed to jump in so you get as much wear out of them as possible!)

Thanks for that Alicia, I was wondering what would be best and general sewing advice seems to be stretch lining with stretchy fabrics but all leather advice seems geared towards leather work (as in bags, wallets, etc.). I do have just the right amount of silk twill in black which maybe has a bit more give (maybe?) and I had thought using maybe a weaker thread and a zig zag stitch to attach could be an alternative? Does that sound like a better idea?

(I also have some silk satin I could use, but it's white which seems a bad idea colour wise.)

My leather jeans (almost as old as XingJr) are lined with a silky satin to just below the knee, if that helps at all. They are still in surprisingly good fettle around the bum and knees, despite my habit of kneeling down to put logs on the fire. But the black, not white.

Thanks, Xing, I think the satin sounds lush but white would be a terrible idea and I don't think dyeing it black is going to be very successful. I also don't know if they make silk satin like they used to.

I've been squinting at pictures of vintage Hérmes leather trousers this evening and they use silk twill (probably the same fabric as their scarves) and they seem to slip stitch them in by hand and that seems to stand up well.

That actually appeals most to me as I don't need to buy any new fabric or special machine needle, there's already holes in the leather so can just utilise those. Only risk is whether that's really going to work in a stretchy waist as opposed to a zipped trouser. I'll try it with a cotton thread first, if that breaks it'll only be the thread that's damaged, the lining and leather should be fine and I'll contemplate another strategy if necessary. Or maybe I'll try slipstitching in the current lining as an experiment with cotton thread first. Decisions, decisions.

What about considering the lining like chaps, but internally, so you make loose linings on a biased cut that aren't firmly attached at the lower end. But I don't sew, so you should probably ignore any idea I put here.

Chaps as in assless chaps I don't think bias cut works with trousers as I think the crotch is meant to be on the bias, or have some give anyhow, but I'd have to look it up.

I did experiment with slipstitching the existing lining in tonight and that does make it more flexible (but the lining itself is still stiff as, I'm wondering if they cut it against the grain or something that would explain its sheer stubbornness, I'm happy enough to blame the circumference of my thighs but that really doesn't seem to be the issue).

The slipstitching should also allow me to work in some extra ease and hopefully that will solve the lining issue. Otherwise I shall just have to accept a soggy arse and knees, it'll be a biological reality soon enough, may as well get used to the idea.

I have just checked mine and they are unlined . I shall have to keep them for wearing out to stave off soggyarse-itis.

Won’t slip stitching just mean the lining is even more likely to have a life of its own Bo?

Time, I don't think so, at least it didn't feel like it, it's only attached at the waist so those two need to work with each other and they then seem to play along nicely. The main issue is that the lining makes the stretchy waistband fixed, so you have to get the lower waist length (it's low rise) over larger parts of legs now, the lining has no give so the seams are compromised. The slipstitching allows for a bit of elasticity, I'm just hoping it'll be enough. I do have some elastic thread from a shirring experiment but I think that's probably a step too far.

Fellow sewers (the above ground kind), this popped into my eBay searches, the price is for a 2m length, which is a bargain for Dormeuil fabric and an interesting mix too, could potentially make some really nice s/s wide leg trousers, I'm torn on the colour as I'm not sure how it would read as a garment, still trying to figure that out from internet pictures, since it's for men's wear I expect it to be a bit more subdued like pic 2 but then it's really bright in pic 3. clicky link here