🐌 Fantastic Skincare: Vanities Are The New Shelf Porn

[botemp]

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For those who are taking a peek and wondering what this all about, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients (rather than the latest new shiny product and all its empty promises) for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Newcomers are always welcome but please note the following:

Questions and asking for help on this thread is encouraged, however, we can’t give you a specific routine to follow and hope it works out for the best. There are no overnight miracles in skincare whether it be in the form of products or techniques. It’s about perseverance, understanding your skin, assessing its needs and responding to that in a diligent manner.

These threads were created to help those who want to learn for themselves. We’re a group of interested and invested skincare nuts happy to offer tea and sympathy and dole out advice. Everyone’s journey with skincare is different, what is universal and binds us is that through actually learning about the different active ingredients it helps us get to know our skin and help us adapt as it will change many times throughout our lives - with seasons, hormonal changes, ageing, genetics etc. It's in everyone's best interests to get to know their skin and to keep reviewing those changes with the confidence that comes from the gathered knowledge here. We really encourage you to spend the time reading through previous threads and linked info sheets that the many contributors have taken the trouble to share.

By no means are we experts, we're only a bunch of amateurs that can only respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

I am very slowly working on consolidating the gathered information from previous threads into easier to read formats but it’s slow going. I would suggest reading thread 1 and at the very least the following info sheets (provided they apply to you):

Where to Start

Basics of an Actives Routine

Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions Info Sheet

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

Understanding Which Sunscreen(s) to Buy

Do I Really Need to Wear Sunscreen Every Single Day of the Year?

A Damaged Skin Barrier - Now What?

So You Want To Buy A Retinoid - A Guide

MAY 2020: We're in lockdown and it's doing weird things to our faces

@Pupsiecola random but the my protein clear whey powder is SO good. I have the rainbow candy one

Thanks client. We usually have the Optimum Nutrition but I have used My Protein before.

I'm sure I slept better for having my hair in a pineapple. It felt good to have it out of the way as I toss and turn a fair amount and it ends up all over the shop. Which is why it usually looks bonkers in the mornings.

CGM CHAT slimy hair sounds delightful Pupsie . I did actually wash my hair this morning but decided to rinse out normal conditioner and use the leave-in as I felt it would be such a waste if it all went horribly wrong when I was trying out a new product (must try not rinsing out conditioner another day though - apparently it works very well).

Bo - the Giovanni leave in I have is the Direct Leave-In Weightless Moisture conditioner. It does have aloe but also has soya bean extract (which I understand from your excellent notes is a medium sized protein). Aloe is higher on ingredients list than the soya. I think the Blueberry bliss has silk proteins IIRC?

I'm pretty sure Curly Cailin also says low porosity not needing protein is rubbish. Still not sure re my porosity... I don't think I'm at either end of the spectrum though.

Those are some impressive notes btw! I think I will only be able to tell with time and experience if my hair is soft or too soft or dry/stiff due to too much protein as opposed to not enough moisture. I'm trying to get rid of halo frizz at the moment so washed upside with tepid water and applied products upside down - will see if it helps. I'm not convinced I manage to cover all my hair properly with product when doing it upside down.

Pupsie, I do remember that my conclusion for bullet journaling was that it's probably best for people who have a lot of time to draw up creative calendars and little to fill them up with...

CGM CHAT

Sophie, I found a really good science based blog where my notes are from, probably a better read than my dodgy handwriting.

science-yhairblog.blogspot.com/?m=1

From there I learned that hydrolyzed soy protein is not that interesting because the amino acid profile has a lot of the ones human hair doesn't have and vice versa. Blueberry Bliss has quinoa protein and I think some silk amino acids. Quinoa is interesting as it comes in different molecular weights which all have different purposes. It's all fascinating but I'll leave the nerdery to the blog as I'm blabbing

She has a lot of information on porosity too, I knew but forgot that we all have low porosity hair where it comes our of our head and then it becomes highly porous at the ends with time and/or damage.

Finally get what the polyquats and polymers do now too, UV protection. They do other things too but that's their true appeal for healthy hair.

Do you like the Giovanni, I may end up getting it too as they're selling a travel size and tipping that in would mean free shipping, so it's basically free and what everyone forgets to tell you is that CGM is a pain to travel with so all travel sizes welcome.

Are we okay with including the CGM chat here of would people prefer a separate thread? I think I'm the main instigator so thought it best to ask.

I have ordered a couple of products to try. I had almost RPd the Pureology last week when restocking TTDO but held off. Glad I did now (I don't tend to keep spares of products I can easily get hold of). I also bought a heat cap and a silk pillowcase. The latter I've been wanting to do for ages re skincare so no biggie. I've got a couple of trial sizes coming. I've grabbed one of DS' H&M cotton tee-shirts for the next wash.

@Pupsiecola I don’t mind at all. It helps with the bold title above it though, otherwise I’m scrolling through the text to see if skincare is mentioned.

Thanks Village.

CGM Chat

I've not got any gel yet, but what happens to the actualy cast chemicals during/after scrunching out? Do they just fall away?

Also, headphones are a bit of a ballache and I wear them a lot. I can't wear in-ear ones as I find they irritate the skin. I have Bose over ears, and then some Trekz Air bone conductors for running/sometimes if my hair is up.

I don't mind starting up a separate thread as it does seem to be taking over and seems to have killed the skincare chat that was going on. It would also be easier to document progress in a separate thread too. Should I start one?

CGM CHAT

I'm not sure as my gel doesn't set that hard but I think it's just some sort of film and it falls apart looking a bit like dandruff.

I've ordered a load of samples and travel sizes today, should take a few days to get here as it's Ascension (? Is that the right one in the UK, I only know the Americans call it Jesus Flying Day 😂). I've got a whole scheme of experimentation set up

What is the issue with the headphones.

Yes agreed Bo. Also might have some other contributors who aren't on this thread. Ty.

Done, I feel deprived of skincare chat, no one's asked me anything since this morning

www.mumsnet.com/Talk/style_and_beauty/3914940--Fantastic-Haircare-Making-Sense-and-Science-of-the-Curly-Girl-Method

If you would like a skin care question bo I have one, the chemist is out of dermo cleanse any alternatives in the LRP, Vichy, neutrogena or aveno ranges? I bought a cleansing milk that looked similar and gentle from yves rocher feels nice but it us very very heavily scented.

Well in that case Bo, what do you think of these Murad products? I know we've earmarked pre-and probiotics before in terms of potentially interesting. I've never really bothered with sprizters. (All scented). Never tried Murad before. Don't intend to purchase any time soon. Just curious.

ent-charged-water-gel/ Murad Nutrient Charged Water Gel

Murad Pre-Pro Biotics

Out, Avene or Aveeno? Avene do an extremely gentle cleanser (that's the name and an apt description) that's nice, especially if you're prone to blackheads, you'll need BHA to lift them out but the Avene helps keep things clear. I think Neutrogena has a newer one in the hydroboost line that's unfragranced that's meant to be decent.

Wrt Murad and prebitocs, I'm waiting out the evidence. I don't mind spending a negligible amount on thermal water, and the LRP moisturiser uses it but I'd buy it even if it used normal water. I tend to avoid Murad in general because of their use of fragrance and colourants. As previously, I'm always somewhat suspicious of Dr/dermatologist brands that formulate with a lot of common irritants. They're not milks though, leaning towards gel. I think Vichy are all fragranced.

@botemp Let me be one of the many who will rectify that

What is this P50 stuff I keep hearing about? I’m assuming an acid of some description? Is it used alongside tret?

Popped in to Boots yesterday for medicine. I still have a gift card from Christmas from my mum so I used it whilst there. One of my purchases was LRP Toleraine ultra 8 mist. Looking online, people were raving about it. Why?! It’s made my skin sticky and feels a bit tight. Maybe I need to spray further away? Or maybe that’s just what glycerin does to me. Anyway, MUCH prefer Vichy thermal spray. I’m disappointed as it was £20. Feels like a waste!

When I say alongside tret, I don’t mean on the same evening. I mean in place of tret on the nights people are taking a break from it?

bo sadly its aveeno may have to hope the LRP ship turns up soon I hear a new fancy chemist has opened up so maybe they'll have something different on offer. Still using PC bha which helps with the blackheads.

P50 is Biologique Recherche P50 (or a version of that, I use the PIGM 400, but most are on the standard version but you always have to start with the gentler W version).

It's like the original cult skincare product, been around since the 70's and I suppose one of the first acid exfoliators for personal use. You have jump through hoops to get access to it, not as bad as it used to be though.

It's mostly a PHA exfoliator but it also contains AHAs and BHA. I call it feotus skin in a bottle but not everyone loves it as much as me. Some people hate the smell and think it smells too strongly of vinegar.

You use very little and it lasts forever. The short version, it's a very strong and effective exfoliator at quite a low pH but because PHA has a large molecular weight it's tolerated generally well.

It can also take a spot down sometimes like magic, especially if it's opened up or you squeeze it like you're not supposed to.

Boo to Aveeno out, here's hoping fancy new chemist has something nice on offer.

I’m so prone to blind pimples recently and I thinks it’s because I keep changing the pill I’m on. I would just sto taking the pill as I don’t use it for contraception but that would cause a whole other bunch of health issues.

Anybody know how to deal with blind pimples? I’ve paused tret for the past few days as the last time I used tret on a blind pimple it brought it to the surface and it was so painful I found it hard to fall asleep.

The deviant skincare exfoliant I talked about a few weeks ago has been helping a bit but looking online the only cure seems to be a trip to the dermatologist for a hydrocortisone shot. (They were American articles, I think my GP would have a fit laughing if I asked to see an NHS dermatologist because of a few blind pimples).

I mentioned it before but I've never used it myself but the Hexomedine Transdermale is meant to be good with blind spots and taking the swelling down. I do also have a prescription (never filled) from my dermatologist somewhere, I'd have to look up the name but I don't necessarily need a prescription for it here (but if I do have one my insurance pays for it) so it should be avoidable OTC, I'm assuming in the UK too.

@botemp Thank you. Sounds like good stuff! Happy as I am for now with my acids, but for future consideration - Is it used in place of Glycolic acid and BHA? So, I use Paula’s choice weekly glycolic treatment now (moved on from my No7) and I put some Paula’s choice BHA around my jawline/chin/cheeks a couple of times per week. Would the P50 be in place of those and you’d use it maybe 2-3 times per week?

Just in place of AHA, the amount of BHA isn't enough in there if you want Paula's Choice BHA results. However, I am going to be very annoying and point out that BHA is somewhat considered a controversial ingredient by some dermatologists to use in pregnancy, do your own research and decide for yourself, obviously. It's deemed safe in concentrations under 2% but the advice from critical dermatologists seems to be don't use it or if you have to, in very small amounts. In that sense with TTC in the (hopefully) future it might be a good replacement for both, especially for hormonal areas of the face, P50 does a good job there.

And yes, about 2-3 a week, I use it every other day usually.

It's best to wait anyhow as I think the only online retailer sells it in the full sizes and to get used to it with the W version (which I think is BHA free, one of them is) you really just want the travel size as it lasts for 6 months, the normal sizes last much longer.

@botemp Not annoying at all, incredibly helpful actually. So, the acids in P50 are deemed safe in pregnancy? If all goes to plan in the coming months i’ll take a look in to it, as that PC glycolic treatment is rather strong, and of course BHA is likely a no no.

Aside from the small concentration of BHA (which is in all but one), yes, the ingredients are considered pregnancy safe.

Received a free sample of LRP B5, which I have to say, my first impression is quite hydrating, but am fairly happy keeping my products to a minimum, and only replacing things mentioned on this thread when I run out.

Am using LRP - Dermo cleanser, PC BHA 1%, Heliocare/Neostrata SPF, and although still rate Dermalogica barrier repair, the LRP B5 is a serum, but just as hydrating...

Thoughts?

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