my point is it makes for a miserable joyless experience which is what most people are talking about
NO IT ISN'T, and NO IT DOESN'T
I have huge sympathy for the OP (see my post about eating at SIL's house above) but family meals are not some joyless dictatorship. We have always, since they were tiny, eaten all meals at the table. This is in part because I don't like food smeared all over the sofa etc. So, drinks, snacks, breakfast, the lot, at the kitchen table.
As babies they were on my lap or in a high chair.
We never had to scold or fuss etc, they sat, they ate, they asked nicely to get down, and we either said, hang on, there is pudding coming, or we said, yes get down and come back in 5 minutes for pudding.
It is habit, no more or less. Some kids get it earlier, some later, some like food more than others, so it is easier, like al habits it takes a while a repetition helps
The hardest one was always when they were really in the middle of something and didn't want to stop for food.
The key is that they do not want to sit for an hour when adults are talking, and who wants to sit at a table with kids and spend the whole time telling them off? Pour more wine for the adults, let kids go, and call kids back when pudding is ready.
Why are family meals being painted a some horrible cower in the face of evil parents experience? Mostly they are just normal, normal chat, normal food etc.
As the parents of teens who still insists that we eat a meal together round the table, I am extremely glad we do it, it is the one time we are all together, good talk happens, it is a habit I am glad we started.