Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: On the Advent of Newness

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

Previous thread

(I've removed the usual links to recommended shops and other places guides from the OP because I suspect they're getting very out of date at this point)

I'm sure I've seen photos of her though, taken in the last 10 years - and posed so you'd assume she'd endorsed them and she looked really cool. I think she was wearing a leather biker jacket in some of them. I've just googled though and can't see them.

Yeah there were definitely some, for whatever reason they're often in gray-scale 🤷 she did very much embrace a black and white wardrobe later in life which she also seemed to effortlessly carry off. The last couple of years she wasn't all that visible due to her health but she was still very much present before that, in French media anyhow.

Glamour, without shine. RIP. Gorgeous, but not very memorable musically. IMO.

I've been browsing some sales this morning, admiring these Sacai Mr Tumnus tweed trousers but not putting in the order as it'll probably be a Japanese fit that won't work with my hip to waist ratio but I'm not completely despondent. <Drumroll> I have unilaterally decided Chitose Abe (of Sacai) should be Chanel's next designer because then at least the stuff will fit me and Chanel might make a customer out of me yet.

Forgot to attach the close up pic.

Ooh they're rather splendid bo, and it's just the weather for tweed trousers.

I'm afraid I don't know Chitose Abe so can't comment on your Chanel hunch - is it like my theory that Phoebe Philo would go to Marks and Spencers or is it grounded in reality?

If that happened it would at least make Sacai-alike items easier to access! Last time I looked (admittedly maybe not this year,) my local Selfridges had about 6 pieces of Sacai but acres of Chanel.

Two of my all time favourite things are / were in a similar-ish tweed to those glorious trousers. A Jean-Paul Gaultier pour I forget whom pair of knickerbockers bought more than 40 years ago when I was about 20, stupidly, stupidly abandoned in County Kerry in the mid 90s. And my best beloved Margiela skirt (not yet lost but rapidly unravelling at the hem). Hmm … I’m thinking the Sacai trousers might be fun to wear as I wear the skirt, with my almost worn to death Rochas tweed coat. (Photos of skirt in its original form, and now with shredded hem.)

I’d definitely welcome Chitose Abe at Chanel - just for the pleasure of looking.

But PP at Emm and Ess? I would predict mass walk outs of MN customers of the latter.

It was when she first left Celine and still had a young family and was talking both about work-life balance and seeking new challenges, and I just thought, what could be a better challenge than turning around the nation's favourite store? How was I to know she'd decide she'd rather sell cuffs for a couple of grand!

Anyway - I guess this list needs updating:

https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/chanel-designer-rumors-hedi-slimane-jeremy-scott

It would pretty much be a pipe dream, I think, Flo. The only way I can see it happen is if Chanel moves forward its diversifying business plans where they make more regional Chanel brands. They've been making moves towards this to adjust to regional differences in tastes and size and they have also made efforts to enlarge their pool of VIPs by targeting them locally.

I think Chanel does ten shows a year, pret a porter, couture, metier des arts and resort shows. If they had the metier and resort shows designed by regional head designers they could make some really interesting things, especially the metier shows if they're combined with local craftsmen from that region (Dior is already doing this to a point in some of their collections).

My other regional head designer picks, Thebe Magugu for Africa. For the Americas it's tricky South America has a much more alive tradition of craft but the most high profile designer I can think of is Gabriela Hearst and though she'd be a good fit business wise she's not that exceptional of a designer 🤔 Haider Ackermann was born in South America (then adopted) so I'm just going to nominate him instead even if the connection is very faint.

Those tweed pants are my Platonic ideal of a pair of trousers.

When I was under 45 I would have worn them so well. Now my hips have changed and that style no longer suits.

Really stunning.

I hadn't heard of Oilskins of Great Yarmouth until today but aren't these trousers and jacket great. My husband was surprised into buying them.

I convinced him it's the male equivalent of the dress that can be dressed up or down and will take you anywhere. And even better , they're made in the UK and sold by a local independent shop.

Oilskins of Great Yarmouth trousers

Oilskins of Great Yarmouth jacket

A bit late but yes those Sacai trousers are a thing of beauty.

Talking about trousers and not pretending they are in the same league, but I just got a very similar to these pair of Oska linen trousers, I saw them in my local dress agency. They are so flattering and the linen is so soft.
I imagine mm in them too and would look great in her.

Poor mm being forced to ingest trousers because of a typo 🤭 but I agree she has good trouser game and those Oska trousers are definitely a great find for either of you. They're a bit similar to my Cordera linen trousers that I love and wear loads.

I've contemplated making a copy in a winter fabric but I'm not sure how much I'd appreciate their breezy-ness in winter (with tights it may just end up being too warm).
Maybe some cotton drill version instead for the current crap weather...

I'd never heard of Oilskins of Yarmouth either @IHaveNeverLivedintheCastle but they look great, and very competitively priced for UK made.

I'm very jealous of those Oska trousers @Redandblue11 My dress agency sometimes has it too and it always looks good, but so far everything's been too big, and the construction always looks too complex for easy altering.

I'm back from a few days in London where I made it to both the Biba and John Singer Sargent exhbitions - yay! But I'm gutted that I didn't get to Christies for a viewing of the Vivienne Westwood auction. Now wondering about a day trip as browsing online just doesn't do it for me. It's not that I've any delusions about bidding but it's probably a last chance to see some of it before it vanishes into some private collection.

Those trousers look a lot like the bob pattern in the leg. I’ve seen another pair with two components to the leg pieces to give more barrel too but I can’t remember where from. I don’t sew trousers, they are in the too hard basket.
https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/bob-woven-pant/

Those tweed trousers though!! I do have to remind myself any photos are on skinny women at least 5’ 8’’ to get the elegant lines…. But pretty sure those trousers would be beautiful on anyone.

I've made those Style Arc trousers. The instructions are very, erm sparse - think along the lines of: 'Cut out and sew the trousers'.

I did finish them and it's all good practice, plus there's no zip which is always a bonus for me, but I can't pretend I reach for them every day.

I didn't even contemplate the length time, but indeed at 5"4 those trousers would aid me in keeping the floors dust free... Ah, well, at least it makes me feel better about not putting in the order. Did get an email from Linton Tweeds today so I might have a nose on their site, they probably got the tweed from there.

Flo, I'd have assumed the VW collection would be your top priority. It's definitely a once in a lifetime thing unless some billionaire decides to buy it all and magnanimously displays it somewhere which seems very unlikely. If you can go, go, definitely feels like one of those things you'd regret.

Yeah I fucked up big time. Plus events.

I am lined up to go to the VW later this week. No illusion on putting a bid on anything but just to see it alone would be wonderful.

Yes Flo those oska trousers have a generous sizing they say Size 0 I am not size 0
Anything larger than size 0 would be a bit loose unless I am on the bloated time, wondering if size ‘0’ is the smallest they make. Which is definitely a size 10.

Going to do a sneaky day trip back at the weekend, I hope and get to Christies. Or maybe Monday although that's my last chance.

Of the things I did get to, the Biba exhibition was good fun, especially eavesdropping on a couple of other visitors who seemed to have known everyone in London at that time. But it also felt a bit unsatisfying just looking at the clothes in the half light, without the music and the art and the politics and the whole cultural shift. It fell a bit flat somehow. Maybe I expected too much.

With John Singer Sargent I had no such preconceptions and thoroughly enjoyed it. The frocks of course were great but the expressions on some of the faces were priceless too. He managed to capture them as individuals, I thought.

From the editor’s letter, this month’s Vogue (July)

“One can imagine the late, great Vivienne Westwood would have approved of such spirit. This month, to benefit an array of her most treasured causes, her personal fashion archive will go on sale at Christie’s. To mark the occasion, Vogue was granted exclusive access ahead of the auction, with Westwood designer and Vivienne’s widower Andreas Kronthaler and photographer Juergen Teller travelling to Margate to capture The Way She Wore, Westwood’s dear friend and muse Tracey Emin agreed to model several pieces and writes an insightful and personal tribute to the style iconoclast.”

I hope you can go flo

Intrigued by a guardian article on Paris Men Fashion Week on Bianca Saunders, I did a google and saw her men’s collection here and liked the ease of some of the clothes , wide bermudas and tops, Caribbean inspired (Bo might have views) , but this is a Men’s collection that I could see myself wearing quite a lot of it.