Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

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Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

[[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FdQbdNEUpGqOyH2oqBQZBVsKISieRgxW_F67mgRLSrw/edit?usp=sharing Consignment shops, Vintage, an
d Restaurants]]

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Previous thread

The Phoebe Philo launch is intriguing. I can afford most of it but I'm not taken by any of it to want to buy.

I liked the faux tailcoat asymetric top best. Very clever that- but is it deliberate or serendipity? It looks on first glance like an elongated tail coat- and who doesn't like an elongated tail coat?

But, and this is where the cleverness might come into it, elongated tail coats whilst being mildly outré are at the same time very easy to wear. The PP faux tail coat is harder. Was that deliberate? To alienate all but the most confident? Or just a happy trick of how it's photographed?

There was a niggle, which has grown. It, and this scarf top, reminded me of Star Trek cos play costumes. Not the USS Enterprise's uniforms but the sort of costumes ambassadors from alien nations might wear.

I Googled this. I shan't post the results of my research, but unfortunately I'm not imagining it.

Targeted age? 45 upwards.

Scarf top

Welcome Sonkolon... You're probably right about the age appeal but most of us here cant/wont spend PP prices, even if we have the money. I'm retired, and there's no way on earth that I am going to spend £900 on a pair of jeans. But I will be looking at the shapes.

And I already have a (knitted) asymetric tailcoat, from Ishiko. It comes out every so often, and I am not tossing it out. A few of us here are quite old and have kept lots of clothing on the off chance we'll like it again. Not much enthusiasm for Marie Kondo.

No worries Flo and Bani, rereading my post it doesn't really read clearly. My thoughts were more if others also want to post pics then it can get quite messy on here between the usual conversation but if it's just me it's neatly contained in theory, but if it's just me on another thread I'm just going to look like a huge saddo 🤣

I've actually seen a fair bit of deep dark browns around, supposedly also the hottest nail colour of AW23 🤷 mostly seen clothes at high end places but also pretty sure there were some nice bits at Arket. Also some at Cos but that brown had a bit of a dark grape undertone which I do not like personally.

KyivitesinKiyv looks very interesting (from what Instagram will show me of it) Catherine. Even though I'm not a fan of children as social media props it is nice to see them featured on that account as most other fashion accounts of that type seem to exclusively focus on women in a somewhat limited age range. It kind of reminded me of this, albeitb stlye unrelated picture, Blinken's son dressed up as Zelesnky for Halloween and his daughter as some sort of Ukrainian embodiment too, off to get candy from Biden, very cute.

Sono, must admit that extraterrestrial diplomat core sounds quite intriguing. Probably not what she was going for though, I've decided to call this initial collection, "I'm a Mum not a Nun", in my head.

She has got me shopping though, even if not with her. I've managed to track down the shearling coat (that vaguely resembles the white coat in PP's collection) that I didn't buy in the last winter sale for foolish reasons. I think I have a picture of me trying it on somewhere, I'll have a dig later. Now I just need a ludicrously capacious tote bag and some ski goggles and I'm well on my way in becoming a bootleg Philophile.

I'm not going to post my "research" as PP's take on it is far more stylish than what I found. It's more that if PP had been asked to design for Star Trek that's what she might have come up with.

I think it's because many years ago I bought from a shop on Bleecker Street a black cotton, grey pin stripe jacket with a row of assymetric buttons, buckles at the waist, buttoning up to a high collar, very full sleeves which went to a long multi buttoned cuff and my son commented I looked like a Star Wars Imperial trooper. That isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Yes, I do enjoy a bit of sci-fi futurism now and then but it shouldn't feel too costume. Rick Owens has a touch of it sometimes but there's also a bit of repurposed Vionnet in Madame Gres in there. On paper an odd marriage but he does usually seem to make it work.

It must be interesting though for costume designers on those type of films/series to imagine a wardrobe for aliens who usually are similar body shape to humans. It would be kind of weird for aliens to have developed systems for making clothes identical to us so it's interesting they always go with draping which just tends to be quite an early use of fabric as clothes in human history when the aliens are usually more advanced.

But surely bo, costume designers have to work around human actor bodies, until animatronics. Or CGI, and then what shape are the baddies?

Yes, maybe I wasn't clear, of course so long as you use human actors there will be something human about it. That's why I find it a bit odd why costume designers go with costumes that are quite primitive in a way (in terms of how we approach making clothes) but I think it probably plays more on the idea that we associate people in drapery with ancient greek philosophers so it expresses a sort of advanced wisdom or something along those lines?

Look what popped up in my inbox yesterday, more brown, no more complaining from the brownies on here, it's out there or will arrive soon. I do think brown is a tricky one as it needs to be a nice material, can't be too dull, brown in a shitty material just tends to look like, well, shit.

I did some digging and found the picture of me trying on the shearling coat in Paris earlier this year. Should arrive today, hopefully it actually lives up to the memory.

That's lovely Bo.

That is a gorgeous coat bo!

Can I ask if it’s heavy? My main experience with shearling is my DM’s 1970s one that was so heavy I could barely stand (as a teen) but I recently tried on a Joseph one that was so so light I could hardly believe it. Is it a modern process thing? If I knew they didn’t weigh 5 kilos then I might consider a purchase

(I also have hair and trouser envy but I’ll try and control myself from being too starry-eyed)

It's arrived and I still love it but I do now remember why I didn't go ahead and take it home at the time. It has a dropped shoulder and because of the volume of the material and my rather straight shoulders it does add a bit of bulk there. Not in a bad way, but it gives quite a strong silhouette for something so soft looking so it is a coat where you kind of have to consider what you're wearing down below. I tried it on with a few different options to assure me of its range which I didn't have in the shop at the time. So it's not a throw it on with anything coat, but plenty enough to earn its stay, potentially the shoulders will also soften with time as the material wears in?

It looks especially epic with my Bottega boots although with that try on session I've come to the questionable discovery that I really like the Miu Miu I forgot my pants (trousers for you Brits) look with my Bottega boots (I could not be arsed to put on some hose and a skirt to try it with a coat that mostly covers that up anyhow) so now I'm trying very hard not to Google some knit micro boy shorts to wear over some low deniers but if anyone's seen any send those links my way 😇

Shangpie my hair is a bit shit in RL (but I wouldn't want different hair) so I'll happily take the compliment. The coat is definitely weighty when you feel it on the hanger but when on it's evenly distributed over the body and feels more cozy than heavy. I think they might have been some advancement in the world of shearling. I think they split the skin and then attach the furry bit to a lighter weight leather backing to cut some weight and probably repurpose that thicker bit of leather for something else. I definitely remember trying on a Penny Lane style coat in a vintage shop which was fantastic but way too heavy and warm, so sadly it was left behind.

A quick question: has anyone bought from ssense platform? Do they do promo codes and is it worth waiting for a promo code to come about? [I can't even see a promo code box on their checkout page] Thanks

Ssense are in Canada and the shipping is really high. Or it's normal shipping prices or free over a certain amount when things aren't on sale but then it's just high shipping prices when things are on sale. Also something about the returns that I can't remember, there's a fee maybe, and they definitely do final sale on a lot of things which means no returns. The whole attraction to Ssense are their deep discounts so in the end I never end up shopping there as shipping or lack of return options negate the whole prospect. They do do codes, there was one in October for 25% off but I think the next promotion period will be Black Friday.

The coat is Fab Bo.

Well, Madrid was as nice as always, but I had far too little time there. We did pop in El Corte Inglés, tried on a pair of pleather narciso Rodriguez trousers and also a (ahem Bani) brown jumper …. But I was just not feeling it and left.
It turns out my other free time coincided with a bank holiday, the main Virgin festivities and most of the shops where closed.
So I stopped for chocolate con churros instead.

many thanks, Bo! I suddenly decided I need to try whether Studio Nicholson's boots would be any good (attached). Slightly stompy but also with a zip. Hopefully tall enough and good to offset sharp shoulder tailoring

They seem to have produced them last year and sold out in size 41. I am not sure whether they are currently selling what they produced last year still, or making a new butch (the price seems unupdated; my personal observation that midrange boots that were costed at £450 last year - Ayede comes to mind, now climbed up to £650-700. I thought I'd wait to try Ayede when I go to Berlin; just to have something special for Berlin, meanwhile they will soon double in price!). There is still no 41, ssense had one pair but then I managed to track one on matches (maybe they operate with the same warehouse) and buy with some discount

I'll report what they are like when I get them. bani with her rubber sole boots broke my prohibition on such soles :)

Churros, Red, I always enjoy them in Spain but I can never bring myself to buy them here, such a sugar/fat bomb they are

In fact, I blame you all collectively for my order :) bo with her new boots and bani, too. I am a little bit unsure about them, so embrace your collective responsibility and give me your opinions :)

Ah - I’ve wondered about those boots, @microbius! From a distant memory of an outfit of yours on another thread they do seem very much your thing. Will be interested to hear how you find them.

@CrkdLttrCrkdLttr Yes! Was it you on this thread, who, maybe some time last spring, was showing their new Legres boots - attached? And having put them on, couldn't get them off? I had the same very pair on my wishlist and in the end decided against them because of -no zip, too much hill and a wanted a longer shaft. I did consider them for a long time.
Another contender is this Hereu (sold out anyway)
I am pretty sure French 41 will be too small for me, and I am unsure about this current moment or superwide shaft

That was me! They require less of a battle to get on and off now, and tall, brown, heeled boots were definitely lacking in my wardrobe - but I think my heart is still with something flat and black. Hermes, Ann Demeulemeester, Hereu. I’m also a 41, though, so obviously not the sold out SN ones. But not this year. I do have to remind myself, often, that money can be spent on things other than what I wear.

I like the boots in your first post the best microbius, although personally I'd prefer brown to black. But then I'm Team Brown so I would say that.

Also I bloody love my new Community Clothing combat trousers. They're in a heavy but soft cotton twill that reminds me of Toast in its heyday, and they hang exactly the way I hoped they would - a perfect replacement for the Uniqlo U ones (admittedly they probably cost 3 times as much so they damn well should be).

Aaand I've found another tweed jacket to wear with them. 'What?' I hear you shout, 'Another one?' But listen, listen, this one is shorter and a bit more fitted and I'm beginning to like that silhouette all over again. If there's any light left when I've finished my chocolate, I'll try and take a pic.

Good cotton twill trousers are always a treasure, flo! And congrats on the new tweed jacket. A shorter fitted ones work well with today's wider trousers, I am finding also that I am wearing such a silhouette more often.

I am also team brown, flo, and I would love them in brown, but there is no hope in hell to find long boots that fit me in brown.

@CrkdLttrCrkdLttr did you try Ann Demeulemeester boots? What are they like?

Sorry I hadn't realised you were struggling to find long brown boots micro, that's a bummer.

The light in the full length mirror room had gone so here's a photo of the trousers and tweed jacket without me modelling them. I'm guessing the jacket's early 2000s and it reminds me of one I bought around that time in Mexx when I was still trying to convince myself I had gone back to my pre-pregnancy size. Except this one is made in Italy 100% wool and - crucially - it fits.

Ann Demeulemeester boots come up big, they're not as fantasticly good and well made as they used to be but that was a really high bar so they're still really well made and high quality. There's this pair that I've been eyeing but I absolutely do not need more boots maybe.

I'm on the fence about the Studio Nicholson boots only because they don't really have a distinguishing design. They look like a lot of other boots available at all price points so they'd have to be amazingly well made and comfortable for me to justify the outlay, but I do tend to be really fussy like that, doesn't necessarily need to be the same for you.

Ah Flo, more tweed 🧐 I'll trust MrFlo will warn us when we need to do a tweedervention...

I'm going to be a heathen and confess I don't like churros with hot chocolate. I like them separately but not together. No intel on fantastic chocolate cake near the Prado then Red

Are those the twill work trousers Flo? I've been looking at them too, but have ordered two styles of black jeans from Arket to try first!