Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

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Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

[[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FdQbdNEUpGqOyH2oqBQZBVsKISieRgxW_F67mgRLSrw/edit?usp=sharing Consignment shops, Vintage, an
d Restaurants]]

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Previous thread

That's it, we're hanging and quartering the interns. Kind of odd nobody caught that in editing, although there seems to be a very purposeful unfiltered aesthetic to the photography so maybe they've not been edited?

Well a lot of it seems to have gone already

The only thing that might have kept me awake at night was that asymmetric tailored top that looked like a tailcoat at first glance because it hung at exactly the same angle as the trousers. I thought that was stunning.

Is there anything though she couldn't have done when she was at Celine?

Ah I see you're already talking about the tailored top. I still think that's lovely - I might even have worn heels for it.

I cannot see the tailored top … whenever I click on tops my phone or laptop yes I tried on both goes onto the endless nothing…

I like the unfiltered look of stuff, but I like it when is curated …

I'm mentally flipping through all my friends and acquaintances and can think of maybe two - certainly not me. I think Rick Owens does that kind of stuff much more accessibly.

I might actually have something from RO like that now that I think about it, definitely more wearable. The only people I know that I can think of really going for this stuff and have the funds are US based as they still have a bit more of formal/casual separation than we seem to have.

I'd kind of been anticipating a morning launch but perhaps the US and Asia are more the target and explains the late start in the day.

It's this one Red. There seems to be one size left if you're quick! It probably wouldn't be the same unless you snap up the trousers too though

I was just coming by to see if we have all bankrupted ourselves buying Phoebe coats. I guess not....

Liked the merino jumper but the price tag, blimey. And semi-sheer too! I can get that from Cos, right?

Highly doubt asymmetric top or poncho type foldy dresses will look great on the short and curvy-on-a-good-day, dumpy-on-a-bad-day types like me, but I liked looking at them.

How is everyone? I have taken up running so all I have bought recently are running clothes, fashionable they are not. Although I'm quite keen on my bright pink trainers. I'm terrible at it, but I feel better for doing it, especially mentally. It forces perspective and well-being on me when I am wallowing in gloom.

Very annoying that they put on the red overlay when it's sold out.

On another note, if anyone's headed to NYC soon this looks like an interesting exhibition about the founder of Chloé.

Waves at Catherine 👋 long time no see hope all is well, dare I ask if you've finally settled down in a house of your own? Well done on the running.

The Cos merino jumpers are a bit shit tbh, I unpacked one from my winter clothes (vacuum sealed) the other day and when I put it on it I heard and felt it as it sprang several holes. I bought it last year in the sale, I washed it a handful of times, I am very anti cos at the moment 😤

Hi Bo! Yes, been in deepest Somerset for nearly 2 years now. Not the posh bit where all the arty London types go, the dodgy end over near the sea. I say that with affection.

The description of Phoebe's jumper as semi sheer makes me think it would develop holes pretty quickly, at least for me - I'm hard on jumpers. At least one wouldn't be remortgaging the house to buy one from Cos... (sorry Phoebe if I am maligning you)

everything I've seen in the high street recently feels thinner and less well made right now. That said I did buy some Uniqlo jumpers to replace all my holey ones and didn't see much difference, but they were always a bit skimpy.

Hello Catherine ! I remember going to the seaside in Somerset about 3 years ago … we were driving and decided to stop round there. It surprised me the huge potential that area has! Surely you will be laughing in a few years time? When the rest realised how good it can be…

I remember you moving Catherine but vaguely recall there were issues with either moving in or unexpected work needing done? Hope your Ukrainian colleagues are all still doing well as well.

I don't think thin jumper necessarily equals weak, I've had some bizarrely sturdy pidly thin jumpers and some chunkier ones that were prone to unraveling. I'm not a knitter but I assume there's some sort of reason for it, the quality of the yarn, maybe?

There's a profile/review/puff piece on the PP launch on BoF, paywall free link, it's by Tim Blanks so a rather florid take. I think having digested it a bit, what I'm really missing in the collection is the effortless ease and cool that always defined her personal style, this feels less personable somehow.

Oh weird, the link preview links to the paywall version but the link in text does take you to the paywall bypassed version.

Liked the look, but not enough to want to buy anything. (Fortunately, because it's well above my pension!) And somehow, it's a bit too look at me. That level of theatricality you need a place to be seen, and I'm fairly certain it ain't aimed at older women 6' glamazons or rural gastro-pubs in Cornwall.

My first impression when I came away from the site was that it felt quite corporate, almost as if the pandemic had never happened. Then I looked again at the short skirts and the tassels and the 'hand combed' things and the trousers with the zip down the leg and thought, 'erm no!'

I'm almost wondering if she's spent too long on it. I can totally understand wanting to get away from the treadmill of 2 big collections plus a couple of 'cruise' ranges a year, and from what I read somewhere, she's gone at her own pace and exercised total control, to the extent of binning everything and starting again at one point. (Admittedly I can't remember now where I read that but I'm sure I did,) But maybe no deadlines aren't great for creativity either?

Catherine!!!

Sorry I didn't mean to ignore you. I had this thread open for hours (it's been a slow and strange old day) and then the minute I walk away, here you are! Lovely to see you again

I probably like it more than most of you. It's very Bottega or is Bottega very Phoebe, but I like New Bottega (still mulling a jumper and some trousers). Christ the prices though. The pricing is also weird. I like the Cabas bag but the large one is twice the price of the small. You don't usually see that pricing dynamic. A large might be 20% more than a medium usually. There's no way it's a €6k bag!

I think there's an ease to some of it, the tops mainly. Oddly I like the try-hard items. I really like the white skirt and the zip pants - hate the website turning everything red.

I think the word I was groping for was 'brittle'. For me there's something quite 80s about it and I'm not thinking of the double breasted jackets and big shoulders, I mean that whole 'work hard, party hard' sensibility. Maybe not something you'd expect from a woman who's just taken 6 years off work but she's shown before that she's got a good feel for the zeitgeist so who knows?

Elle, I can see you wearing it, because you are the age and the height to look fabulous in it, but it really doesn't strike me as an every day look for anyone older and shorter.

I wonder if my phone temporarily froze for most of today to scupper any uncontrollable Phoebe-madness on my part? Was a ‘strange and slow old day’ here too - tied to a recalcitrant laptop without all the zippiness and eagerness of the device in my palm.

There’s no doubt I’d love the collection more if I were clicking buy on anything. But I don’t need new sunglasses … I did like the shoes! And the mood of the photos; it is good to have her fierce women back. Apparently she was 50 last week - it’s a nice way to mark your half century.

There's a lot of viscose at high prices that I do find a bit odd. There seem to be more items now than when it first launched. I think this coat is going under the radar (only sold out in size 34). It's beautifully made with some really special details and the detachable scarf really adds something to it (and is thankfully included in the ambitious price).

I like the zipper trousers too but I can't imagine they'd be comfortable to sit in.

I like Bottega a lot, and can see choosing select items from the collection in almost any season. Thirty years ago, I had a chain link belt in the sale from their store in Rockefeller center. I wore it so much on everything that the links wore through. It elevated everything.

I'd just prop myself up on a bar to be honest if I was wearing the zip trousers.

I know it's semantics, but I enjoy that the (very lovely coat) is described as having an attachable scarf. Usually they're described as detachable in a way that suggests that it's a bit half-hearted and "hey you can take it off if you don't like it, we weren't sure either".

D’you know - I’ve scrolled through the most recent two pages of S&B threads and there is not a single one about the Phoebe Philo launch.

Not. One.

It’s no wonder I find myself approaching the board with increasing frustration and a word I won’t say.

Ah leave the rest of S&B alone, I considered starting a Philophiles thread but I assumed I'd just be talking to you all on another thread but with a bunch of "how much" and "no one should ever pay X for Y, ever," posters mixed in.

That skirt is lovely CertainUncertain, and I love the shoes too, those are for more likely to get me back to buying heels again than PP somehow. I wasn't a big fan of the clothes at Bottega under Daniel Lee, well what filtered down to the stores anyhow, some of the runway stuff was interesting but what my local store seemed to stock was the more overt I've got money pieces. But I really like it under Matthew Blazy, especially the latest show. Weirdly it's kind of what I'd hoped Raf Simons at Calvin Klein would sort of be, he worked under RF so I guess that's why it has a bit of his signature.

I'm going to stop being a negative Nancy about PP, it is all quite good (but yes, the website is quite glitchy, must be down to traffic), my first impression was definitely linked to what I'd like as a consumer, if there had been something I really really liked and wasn't the price of a new car I would have gotten it but nothing grabbed me to that extend.

I've been pondering, that lovely coat, I kind of see Lady Caroline from Succession wearing it, she'd look fantastic in it but it all feels a bit fictional to a point. And I don't think this is a negative at all, but it also feels like a good bunch of the pieces are designed with an older woman in mind, which few dare to do so I'm all for it. But as much as I always say older models don't put me off buying something I think the fact it feels more mature and grown up than I feel probably does put me off thinking it's for me.

Funnily enough some of it reminds me of a new designer I stumbled across a while back, there's definitely a difference in how the body is exposed Vs revealed at PP but it could almost pass as the younger sister line, Hodakova. And subsequently between Phoebe Philo's puffy white (POA) coat and the Hodakova white fur coat, I'm back to thinking about a similar less dramatic shearling coat I didn't buy in the sale last year because winter had been so mild I assumed global warming meant I'd never get to wear it. Argh.

Oh, WRT semantics, Elle, I'm sure they said attachable and I just changed it into detachable, I tend to view everything and anything as detachable, let's not examine that too hard...