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Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride

986 replies

botemp · 02/07/2023 22:09

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.


Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

[[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FdQbdNEUpGqOyH2oqBQZBVsKISieRgxW_F67mgRLSrw/edit?usp=sharing Consignment shops, Vintage, an
d Restaurants]]


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209
Floisme · 28/09/2023 08:29

microbius I love it that we're MH coat twins! Mine was from a collaboration with Barbour which I think she does every year so, assuming yours is the same, check all the pockets, particularly the inside ones because there should be a leaflet with care instructions and info on where to send it to get it rewaxed and reconditioned. (I believe you can also do it yourself - there's probably something about it on YouTube.) If you can't find it then I think the info is probably on the Barbour website but, if not, give me a shout and I'll dig out my copy.

As you can probably tell, I've never had it reconditioned, in fact I've taken pretty atrocious care of it, other than always hanging it up on a hanger. But then I don't live in the countryside or have dogs or any hobbies that involve crawling around in mud with a shot gun so I think it probably leads a fairly sedate life compared to some Barbours. It's developed this kind of mottled effect down near the hem, which they loftily say is a patina and therefore a good thing. I like to think it's still on the right side of arty-chic but in reality it could be approaching Lady in the Van territory. It's effective though and surprisingly warm - there are normally only a couple of days a year when it's not enough. My only real gripe is that the hood is held on by a few large poppers and detaches far too easily e.g. I use a cross body bag and, if I'm not careful, when I take off the bag, the hood comes too. Annoying and frankly a bit cheapskate as you wouldn't have that problem with a zip. But I don't think I've moaned about bad weather coats for at least 4 years now which tells you a lot about it.

I think last time Maria Gracia Chiuri and her slogans came up I was prepared to give her the benefit of the doubt, but taking a pop at capitalism while working at Dior is a Marie Antoinette level of delusion. But it sounds like she's got no-one on her team who'll tell her, 'Give over Maria'.

microbius · 28/09/2023 10:41

bo, I'd love to see you insane clown coat!

flo, thank you! I have now investigated the coat and MH collections and my conclusions are that I probably got the runway sample of some obscure origin. So our coats are not identical twins but fraternal ones :) I remember trying Barbour collab coats and they all (and usually all MHL) were too short on me in the sleeves and in terms of the proportions. This one fits perfectly, like it is done specifically for my mighty height of 6 feet. The fabric label that is sown in is blank. The coat is not as oiled as Barbour but more oiled than MH other weather-resistant cotton and I can't find the coat in any collections. It doesn't have poppers but looks quite close to Ursula from that collab. A mystery coat and a mystery sibling to yours, Flo

botemp · 28/09/2023 11:16

Here, micro, I took a picture of it last night (to commemorate it before I ruin it with my topstitching skills) so lighting not the best. It's a transparent waterproof silk mix fabric (I interlined it with silk organza in the collar and facing so it wouldn't be so floppy). I only found out later it was waterproof (bought it at the Dries vN fabric sale), I was originally planning on using it over another fabric as a layer of sorts. Forgot, aside from hems and topstitching I also need to finish the belt.

I think merchant and mills sells this thing called dry oil cloth, which is like a drier oil cloth, maybe it's something like that, but not sure WRT care to those. I just know you can't iron oil cloth it as it removes the finish.

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
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Redandblue11 · 28/09/2023 12:40

I missed the post about the clown coat. Did you make that Bo????
love the effect of the lines at that angle. And just looks so professionally made.

microbius · 28/09/2023 13:22

The oversized lapels work really well with that width/contrast of the stripe. Very impressive! (I don't see anything clownish about it, why do you call it that?).

Thank you for the advice about the ironing! Very timely. I was just about to iron it ..
I checked out Merchant & Mills dry oilskin and does look exactly like my coat. I am welling with knowledge!

microbius · 28/09/2023 13:33

Apparently, I can use hairdryer to ease the creases. Thank you, bo, as always. I can't link but here are some instructions - in case flo finds them useful

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
botemp · 28/09/2023 13:48

The bold coloured stripes remind me of a circus tent, and the proportions of collar and lapel are a little oversized hence clown coat in my head 🤷 and the insane bit is down to it being two off cuts of fabric and the pattern didn't always line up as it should, angles were a little off here and there so pattern matching that with French seams was a touch maddening.

Interesting about the hairdryer, I hope it does the trick.

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mm47 · 28/09/2023 13:51

Seriously impressed with your clown coat Bo although it looks too chic to be called that!

love MH Barbour coats esp the Ursula style so am deeply jealous admiring of Flo & Micro for finding either an Ursula or Ursula’s-taller-sister version (at a good(ish) price). Micro you could just let the crumples drop out (which I imagine they will, up to a point) and put it down to patina because I bet new crinkles will form (in a very satisfying way).

mm47 · 28/09/2023 13:52

Sorry x post

EffortlessDesmond · 28/09/2023 15:27

That is one superbly chic waterproof, bo. It will be interesting deciding what you wear under it every time you take it out, because the garments underneath will be visible. Rather the other end of the spectrum from the Barbours!

NatashaDancing · 28/09/2023 21:46

Beautiful coat

MmePoppySeedDefage · 28/09/2023 21:57

It is indeed, and congratulations to microbius on her new coat/jacket, that fits.

Floisme · 30/09/2023 10:04

That's a stunning coat bo, and all without following any kind of pattern I bet? You're very talented.

And microbius my coat sibling thank you for those instructions, particularly the hairdryer tip which I hadn't heard before. This has also reminded me that maybe I should get mine reconditioned, or at least find out how much it costs. Normally by the time I think about it, winter's already set in and it's too late cos I need it most days.

CrkdLttrCrkdLttr · 30/09/2023 13:06

30th October!

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
Floisme · 30/09/2023 16:39

Ooh thank you CrkdLttr I have registered. Not that I have any delusions - I probably couldn't even afford her postage and packing, but I am very curious. It's been - what? 5 years? - since she left Celine and I can't think of many contemporary designers who would have the nerve to lie low for that long.

botemp · 02/10/2023 18:33

Thanks for the nice comments about my coat. Unfortunately I'm waiting on my topstitching thread to come in by post so I've not gotten much further. I did worry about having to dress around the coat too Desmond but it seems to just take over so it's actually quite versatile.

Thanks for the heads up on PP Crkd as my email predictably ended up in the spam folder 🧐

I was just contemplating and grumbling before the weekend, wasn't she supposed to launch in September? I've been sitting on my hands all this time and I'm not sure I'm willing to do it for another month. In all likelihood it'll be more than I'm willing to pay and it'll sell out before I can check anything out anyhow. I do really need a new skin tight fitting knit mock neck in black and probably an off white, bet she'll have made the perfect ones when I've already settled for close enough perfect ones <grumbles some more>

The gif in the email is not very revealing though, not that you can see much at lightning speed, the sunglasses stand out and are very old Céline, which struck me as odd. I'd assumed she'd evolve a bit away from that as her last Céline shows already seemed to show some maturation from that look. Maybe the sunglasses are just a red herring?

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EffortlessDesmond · 02/10/2023 21:09

I have been shopping but only for basics. I bought in M&S, a black jonny collared cashmere jumper and a pair of navy pinstripe chinos. (very cheap, but fit rather well and go with most of my everyday). I struggle most with evening stuff but need a French evening casual twist for eating out in naice places for a quick weekend away next week. I have two cheapish lurex T's (low gleam) already for dinner. Strong shapes, to wear with posh jeans/white/cream trousers in a provincial seaside town in Brittany. I think that and a decent sweatshirt for the rugby match I shall have to watch with DH in a bar on the Saturday should cover most eventualities. It's likely to be warm.

CrkdLttrCrkdLttr · 03/10/2023 07:49

Ah, I can smell the sea, @EffortlessDesmond - some of the happiest days of my youth were spent cycling along the Brittany coast, and stuffing my face with moules every evening. Your proposed outfits sound very fine.

I am still processing the ‘not getting to Antwerp’ aspect of my recent Belgian trip. Our schedule was so packed that in truth I barely saw anything of Brussels beyond my hotel and the various work venues. Talk of Christian Wijnants on another thread may actually make me cry; there’s a shop in Antwerp. Frankly, given there wasn’t even time to buy the potential Christmas presents I saw in shop windows, (late at night, shops closed,) I may need a dedicated shopping and design pilgrimage another time.

(Epic Philo grumbling, @botemp! Everything I’m feeling. Grin)

Floisme · 03/10/2023 08:00

Effortless dressing indeed Desmond, you have a sublime knack for it. Have a lovely time.

I'm not feeling grumpy about Philo and I won't really care if I can't get into the website for the first three days. I'm just nosey. I want to see what she's been up to for the last 5 years.

botemp · 03/10/2023 08:47

Tell me you at least had some shrimp croquettes to make up for it Crkd 😱

At least Antwerp is quite easy to get to with the Eurostar these days, somewhere around November they put up all the Christmas decs and it's really cosy so surely worth squeezing in a trip somewhere?

I'm extra grumbly, because on the 10th Peter Do has a collab coming out with Banana Republic, made to higher specs, but obviously not available here <grumbles continue>

The latest Sacai show perked me up though and there is an interesting mock neck in black and white in there with satinbribbon detailing. Also quite enjoyed the head to toe cargo pockets looks with some transparency which is soothing my Ann Demeulemeester vacuum (latest show with the new new designer much improved on the last one though) so maybe I can stop grumbling about Phoebe for a few minutes...

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
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microbius · 03/10/2023 13:54

Sound like a tantalising and stressful trip, Crkd!

Those are mesmerising garments, bo. I have been drooling over this Sacai shirt since spring. Very everyday wear compared to the runway pics, but it would go with all my high wasted summer wear. And so simple.

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
EffortlessDesmond · 03/10/2023 15:11

Thanks for the kind comments. Heaven forbid that a MN Parisienne could try!

I rather love that little Sacai shirt microbius.

And I so sympathise with the frustration of your trip to Brussels Crkd. The number of cities I have been to that I have seen only the hotel, meeting room and the road to the airport or rail station. Sightseeing and shopping never seem to be possible.

botemp · 03/10/2023 17:26

There's a very eye-catching striped shirt in the new collection too, I'm just wondering how to keep that looking immaculate under a coat 🤔 though it is S/S I suppose.

Speaking of Christian Wijnants, I just got an email for a sample sale of theirs next week. Bit last minute notice and just the fabrics, first Dries split them off now CW, it's a bit annoying. I'm uhming and ahing over whether to go, I usually buy a good bit of fabric from them whenever they were still part of the normal sample sales and a day out in Antwerp is always nice although I've got quite a pile of fabric sitting around being idle. But I'm chiefly just annoyed they're splitting it out from the normal sample sale agenda. It's going to be a grumbly October...

Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride
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botemp · 03/10/2023 17:48

Btw, meant to ask, micro, do you know if there's any shops with a decent stock of Sacai in London? There's only ever little bits of it elsewhere and I'm still Confused by their sizing

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microbius · 03/10/2023 18:52

bo, I don't know of any real life shops that stock sacai well. And whatever I bought (vestiaire) always came "made in Japan", so I assumed that the weird sizing is just Japanese sizing. Even if it's big enough, it's short in other ways. I have a pair of culottes that fit well but they are short in the rise (I am pretty sure they weren't meant to be low rise).

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