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Skincare Ingredients

999 replies

Pupsiecola · 18/10/2016 16:08

Following on from the skincare routines post, what ingredients do you make sure you include in your products, for example, Vit C, Vit E, Hyaluronic acid?

TIA

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Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 11:37

I should have posted the linke bo. It wasn't her saying this (although I appreciate it doesn't make it any more/less true).

www.carolinehirons.com/2016/11/five-mythsfacts-about-acids.html

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Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 11:40

Thanks. Will stick to alternative the acids I think.

Interesting studies re SPF. I agree, and I have skin cancer in my family. I do think sometimes SPF30 would do fine (I'm usually on SPF50 auto pilot).

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wiltingfast · 14/11/2016 12:20

I can still feel the prickle of the acid today from the 5% nip+fab pads! Is that normal?! Definitely won't use it again tonight, never mind am and pm Grin.

Skin IS sensitive though.

Have been viewing CH videos, find it easier to absorb the information on YouTube for some reason.

Who would ye recommend for skincare advice if CH is out of favour? V interested in the AB, but again, is there a reliable blogger/vlogger I could read/view?

Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 12:30

I do rate Dr. Sam Bunting. She is a cosmetic dermatologist with a practice in Harley Street. I think she has similar (but historically better looked after!) skin to me and we are similar colouring. She is just as happy recommending low budget products as the high end stuff. To me she seems to have integrity. (I skim read through the posts on here earlier in the year about the beauty bloggers and how they make their money etc. and I do take what they say far more lightly nowadays.

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AuroraPolaris · 14/11/2016 12:42

For AB I find Fifty Shades of Snail quite good. She seems honest, transparent and her reviews are very detailed.
Snow White and the Asian Pear also has some good reviews and routine ideas. Alas neither of them are a good skin type/ age match for me.
As with any blogger/ writer you have to take into consideration their skin type, lifestyle and age.
But.... with AB it's very easy to find samples on line (eBay and various stores) so a mistake need not be expensive.

JaneAustinAllegro · 14/11/2016 13:44

Bo - my Ordinary caffeine eye serum arrived last week and seems to have had very swift results on puffiness. It's quite a thick serum but not as sticky as the hyaluronic acid.
I'm not quite sure however whether the improvements are more from the caffeine or as a result of the three weeks (ish) use of Carita eye cream samples given to me after a facial. THey've definitely improved the texture of the skin around my eyes (thickened it almost, which has improved the colour) but since I'm not going to pay £90+ for an eye cream, I shall be putting it down to the caffeine!
(am LOVING the effect of the Ordinary niacinamide, not loving the texture of the hyaluronic though)

Wellhellothere1 · 14/11/2016 13:44

botemp you've scared me a little now. I use Nip and Fab Dragon's blood pads each night (don't know how much SA is contained in these-tried to find out with no luck) AND I use Retin A each night. I use nip and Fab glycolic pads each morning. I have mega oily skin and this seems to work well but am now worried about over exfoliation. What does that look like and I wonder if I should switch things around a little?

Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 14:46

What are the rules for which product to take up to the eye area?

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botemp · 14/11/2016 14:46

wilting when starting with acids you have to do it very very slowly. 1-2x a week to build up as needed, iirc the Extreme Glycolic Pads are only meant for 2-3x a week per the box. I thought I was alone on this but many on this thread seem to have issues with sensitivity and glycolic so I would monitor it closely.

I think Dr. Sam Bunting is a good resource, but as mentioned before she does approach it from a medical practitioner's POV and that doesn't always translate as easily for at home use. I like her minimal approach but it can feel a bit too minimal if you're not on something like Retin-A or under dermatoligist's care at the same time iyswim. I have my issues with Sali Hughes sometimes but her videos on dehydration are good (I think for the Guardian).

Korean (American) beauty bloggers are exemplary in their approach with research and disclosure but it does seem in some cases that the mere linking of a study proves their hypothesis that a certain ingredient is attention worthy, and while I genuinely do believe they do the very best of their ability to understand the science involved it has to be pointed out that it's very difficult to peer review scientific research without any actual training in it. I sometimes have to raise my eyebrows a bit, especially in the anti-ageing department where unproven ingredients are touted as such on the basis of a few found studies (it's not unlike Paula Begoun's approach). It also bugs me somewhat that they're all on Curology which is a sort of internet derm service for a set monthly fee in the US. You basically get Retin-A and a few other choice vitamins in moisturiser form so all the potent active stuff is basically covered. I'm sure some of the things they try do great things but the majority of skin improvement won't be derived from the products they trial so it's difficult to assess how well those products are really working. Gothamista on Youtube sometimes whiffs a bit of product placement and press samples but she is very informative, even if not interested in AB it's very informative on a lot of skincare ingredients.

It's an old trick to put tea bags (which has caffeine, a known dehydrator) on puffy eyes to take them down but if I have to hazard a guess it's most likely a temporary effect. Great that it is working though in TO serum, Jane. I tend to find eye creams make me puffy when used at night and actually prefer serums.

Didn't mean to scare Wellhellothere1, it usually happens when continuing to use AHA/Retin-A/Retinol despite irritation, usually at the higher concentrations.

Wrt Retin-A, provided you're under supervision of a medical person they should be monitoring it. The Nip&Fab concentrations aren't terribly high iirc so don't think it would be too much of a concern but something like P50 definitely requires a careful approach and why they're so limited with their sales points. I would switch out BHA for morning and AHA for evenings as AHA is more photo-sensitising and mostly recommended for night time use, don't know how it fares with Retin-A though as most stronger AHA recommend not to use it with Retin-A/Retinol, so it is a tad difficult to recommend what is best in your case.

Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 15:47

How does TO caffeine eye cream co pare with LRP Redermic R for eyes which also has caffeine; anyone know?

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Pupsiecola · 14/11/2016 16:35

Bo you asked how much re the Indeed Hydraluron. I can't find the info anywhere. I don't know if I would repurchase. I have never used the active before so I have nothing to compare to.

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botemp · 14/11/2016 17:40

TO has Caffeine as the main active, 5% mixed with a green tea extract (also good for depuffing) of sorts. I assume the caffeine in the Redermic R helps with a bit of depuffing but not as drastic as the 5% concentration would give most likely. So I'd say the TO caffeine is really for those who significant puff issues, it's of no interest to me as I only ever have puffy eyes if I'm on very limited sleep so not really worth buying it for but I know for others it can be a daily thing. I doubt it will make it go away but it will help manage it.

I was just asking how long Hydraluron lasts since I know its an odd texture, and seems pricey for 30ml. Most HA specific products tend to be on the thinner/watery side and the Japanese versions are usually around 150-200ml.

AuroraPolaris · 14/11/2016 17:50

bo I think they have the Indeed Labs Hydraluron in the Boots pharmacies here.

The LRP Redermic R eyes has retinol 0.1% each of two types of retinol as well as caffeine 0.2%. TO serum has 5% caffeine as well as green tea extract and HA... but it also has urea (though less than 0.2%). Any thoughts about this last ingredient?

AuroraPolaris · 14/11/2016 17:52

Haha crossed posts. Grin

I've used the Hydraluron in the past. I think it's pretty good for treating dehydration quickly. The texture is gel like and I only used a bit at a time so it lasted quite a long time.

botemp · 14/11/2016 18:05

I'm thinking the Urea is probably acting as a water binder, it's not in concentrations high enough to be exfoliating, I'm guessing you want a bit of hydration to remain and not scare the skin moisture away. My best guess anyway Grin

You've used Hydraluron and SubQ right, Aurora? How do you think they compare, people tend to be more complimentary of the Hyalamide range and specifically the SubQ.

hollinhurst84 · 14/11/2016 18:13

I've used both and prefer the indeed one. Feels more... Gel like, and more instantly hydrating

AuroraPolaris · 14/11/2016 19:05

I prefer the Hylamide which I think is a better long term very good hydrator. It also contains fermented ingredients as well as high % of peptides.
The Hydraluron, though good, is just HA.

hollinhurst84 · 14/11/2016 19:26

Yes I think the indeed is instant effect and the sub q more long term if that makes sense! I still prefer the feel/texture of the indeed

AuroraPolaris · 14/11/2016 20:37

Yeah I actually still have a bit of the Hydraluron left and when the skin on my nose gets flaky in winter (hardly ever happens now with the 16.45 layers I apply Grin) I use that.

botemp · 15/11/2016 10:16

1645 layers Grin

Well they're very useful as I discovered this morning as my daytime moisturiser is suddenly finished (the terrible drawback of pump bottles) but I seem to be fine with my makeshift layers of hydration and jojoba oil until my Benton steam cream samples come in.

Enid, I did find a Kiehl's eye cream sample in my stash, are you still interested? Pupsie, I have to try sending you the p50 again today, the post office deemed my letter too thick bastards so have to find a slimmer bottle.

AuroraPolaris · 15/11/2016 12:02

... and counting!!! Grin

Ah you ordered the Steam Cream. Very curious! My Benton essence is just about finished. Must say I liked it much more than I thought I would. Repurchase??? Dilemmas, dilemmas...

I'm also very pleased with hydration levels when I apply the Black Snail cream over serum (the above or Hylamide).

botemp · 15/11/2016 12:19

Did you ever end up getting the eye cream too I believe I am finally succumbing to all things snail? Should really be looking for something in the day, have just been using my Verso day and night lately.

I've been waiting on the Ordinary stuff to become available for so long I have completely held off purchasing things, my stash is suddenly very small without eye creams, day creams, and my Naruko Night Gelly isn't far from finished either and the ebay seller I buy it from won't be back till December... and then I decided to wait out the Black Friday Deals...

I'm having a bit of a skincare pity party as a result Sad

AuroraPolaris · 15/11/2016 12:40

I call it skin hypochondria. It's a proper disorder. I get it often Wink

I did get the cream. Been using it for a while. It feels fine, not "luscious" but then again the ingredients are great so I'd rather rely on that than on fillers that make it feel "great" Grin

AuroraPolaris · 15/11/2016 12:41

Happy you are joining the snail party!!! Wine

AuroraPolaris · 15/11/2016 12:42

Saw Narüko have new snail masks. Problem is I have so many mask now....Confused