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Skincare Ingredients

999 replies

Pupsiecola · 18/10/2016 16:08

Following on from the skincare routines post, what ingredients do you make sure you include in your products, for example, Vit C, Vit E, Hyaluronic acid?

TIA

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wiltingfast · 05/11/2016 10:17

Omg fascinating thread! Just marking for a proper read later.

Am v nervous of acid type products after a terrible flare up on trilogy antioxidant rose hip oil. My cheeks are sensitive but not extraordinarily so. But that stuff left my skin terribly reactive for ages. I couldn't even use the plain oil afterwards. Are they a no for people with sensitivity?

Am now on that smart Clinique cream which seems fine (skin calm) but not that special, love the idea of boosting my routine.

Have been using cetaphil to cleanse but I see that advice is now out of date?!

Pupsiecola · 05/11/2016 13:11

Bo which oils do you use please?

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AuroraPolaris · 05/11/2016 14:02

As far as I remember the Cetaphil cleanser has both SLS and parabens, so please STOP!!!!!!!

It took me indeed a while to get used to the rosehip oil, or rather it too my skin a while, but I found it lovely so preserved Wink and now it's absolutely fine, but I use literally two drops.

Dulcimena · 05/11/2016 14:35

You're right, I have been skipping day cream because the s/s has (I thought) been sufficient, but now it's getting colder I can definitely use more moisture. The chap at the Biologique Recherche counter said that I needed more lipids, but I didn't have the time or energy to fend off a potential hard sell so didn't discuss it further - that may be unfair to him but I tend to be quite sceptical!

Fab, thanks, I'll look up the Naruko too. The whole AB arena can be a bit baffling/overwhelming so it's great to have some recs to get going with.

AuroraPolaris · 05/11/2016 14:48

hollin thnx for the info re the cushion I only now noticed.
I have mixed undertones so yellow tints really don't suit. I need the mixed (BR) ones.

botemp · 05/11/2016 19:05

We had a bit of a Cetaphil discussion when Caroline Hirons tore it to pieces recently. Do I think it's the best cleanser in the world, nope, but it's not the worst either (it has the whole non-foaming low pH thing going for it). As mentioned above there's plenty of reasons to avoid parabens (especially for those of us with endocrine issues) but the ones deemed safe by the EU do have a long safety track record and are often a preferred choice to the alternatives available at that price level. SLS I'm not a fan but if you have resilient skin and never suffered any ill affects from it I might still dissuade you from using Cetaphil (LRP Toleriane Dermo Cleanser is a good alternative) but won't condemn it as it's hardly going to burn your skin off. However, considering how sensitive your cheeks are wiltingfast I think exposing them to SLS and thus further sensitising them is probably not in your best interest further down the line so I'd definitely be swapping it for something gentler.

I've used a sample of that smart moisturiser from Clinique and was left utterly unimpressed but I don't get on with most of Clinique and tend to think French Pharmacy brands cover that market better than they do at lower prices (they just tend to be rather elusive and French about it).

Pupsie, currently I have Komeyu Rice Bran Oil (from Japan, I use it on my hair too), MV Organic 9 oil cleansing tonic (confusing name but it's a treatment oil that can also be used for oil cleansing if you like to piss money down the drain), MV Organic Rose Plus Booster (great for sensitive hormonal skins, I'm not all that convinced on the hydrating claims but it is good as a moisturiser) and the MV Organic Jojoba Oil (my emergency standby, can do my entire routine with this apart from SPF). Also have a teeny bit of Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate left, which is nice too but find kind of pricey for what it is and isn't strictly a pure oil blend. Despite my love of oils I try not to have too many at once as I fear they go rancid.

Dulcimena the AB field is definitely a bit overwhelming, and advanced reading of INCI is required. For example the night cream version of that Naruko product contains Methylisothiazolinone which is voluntarily restricted in Europe due to its irritating potential so probably best avoided.

In terms of lipids, the BR weren't wrong to steer you in that direction but I wouldn't be buying what they're selling either. They are the thing to turn towards when you are lacking in oils. Problem is that it means seeking out oils high in linoleic acid which tend to go rancid quickly so are oft avoided by the cosmetic industry in favour of mineral oil. So pure oils make more sense than seeking out products containing them. Sunflower oil is good, as is Olive oil, Avocado (and an overripe one on your face and some in your diet probably wouldn't be a terrible idea either), Squalane, and Shea Butter. Lanolin is worth considering but usually is made with mineral oil these days. For most these are highly congestive in their pure form but if your skin is indeed that dry it might very well be exactly what you need.

I also think Kelp Extract (do NOT buy the Whamisa kelp sheetmask, it is literally a piece of seaweed Confused) would be beneficial to you. Again it's a ferment so highly packed with nutrients but especially good for sensitivities working as a catalyst for helping restore compromised barriers boosting moisture.

botemp · 05/11/2016 19:13

Dulcimena have you ever tried the Egyptian Magic Cream? Just thought of it as it is high in lipids (olive oil, beeswax) and has a really small ingredients list:

Olive Oil, Beeswax, Honey, Propolis, Bee Pollen, Royal Jelly

wiltingfast · 05/11/2016 19:16

God, I got on cetaphil during the rose oil ordeal and based on beautypedia advice!! Been using it on dd too. O dear. Can't believe advice has changed so fast. Pcos here so hormone interference NOT appreciated!

botemp · 05/11/2016 19:20

Endocrine disruption and parabens is suspected currently, not proven but like you I have PCOS and I tend to go with the 'rather safe than sorry' attitude in cases like these and avoid parabens in daily products.

EnidButton · 05/11/2016 20:29

I have bad endocrine issues, I'd no idea I should be avoiding parabens. I know it's only suspected but I'll try anything that might improve my health a bit. as the doctors have been useless so far Will be checking all my products. Is it obvious that they're parabens?

EnidButton · 05/11/2016 20:32

Ok so anything ending in the word paraben. Not difficult to spot at least. Worth me trying to avoid anyway.

Skincare Ingredients
Pupsiecola · 05/11/2016 21:03

Thanks Bo. I bought some Neal's Yard Argan oil after browsing in Space NK for half an hour and doing some research over a lovely lunch by myself. It seemed a good one to start with. I like the look of a Pai one too but thankfully I'd need to order that online.

The lady in Space NK showing me the different tinted moisturisers commented on the good condition of my skin (I'm sure she meant it. It is in good condition since really getting into actives).

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yongnian · 05/11/2016 23:10

dulcie Its been about a year for me too. I managed to get it stabilised over the summer, but now colder weather/warmer house has brought it back worse than before.
I've found I can still use A313 from underneath the cheekbone down (I have rosacea too so avoid it there) very sparingly on spots and hyperpigmented spot scars. Also seems fine on neck.
My plan now for my poor forehead, having read the last few posts including auroras response to dulcie is to layer only the few products I know don't irritate it, keep it hydrated and treat it differently from the rest of my face. I already do this for other areas. Going to keep water off it, use my rice bran oil to cleanse, cica cream to soothe redness and high %urea to moisturise. SPF over the top. Will use Daktarin if it flares up itchy.
And rest.

hollinhurst84 · 06/11/2016 01:58

Elemental herbology cell food for my serum tonight - it's expensive, I found it in TK Maxx for a tenner and snapped it up!
Not sure which cleansing balm to go for next, quite tempted by this
https://suneetacosmetics.co.uk/collections/facial-cleansers/products/mandarin-calendula-cleansing-balm

Otherwise it's merumaya or trilogy.... Decisions!

botemp · 06/11/2016 09:24

Have you considered the Hemish All Clean Balm, Hollin? It's been getting some rave reviews and has left me curious despite not being the biggest balm cleanser fan, it's coconut oil based with lots of botanical extracts (and donkey milk Grin). I think it's cheapest with Jolse hint, hint.

I've sampled the cell food from EH in the past but was left a bit meh about it, I do love their overnight souffle though, really nourishing and you wake up to the softest skin ever. Need to get another sample size version of it from Naturismo again as I only use it very incidentally.

That infographic is somewhat outdated Enid, in 2014 the EU restricted several parabens (see my spreadsheet Wink, I also included the EU list of possible endocrine disruptors in a separate tab on that spreadsheet). I do have to point out for balance that the effect may be there (conclusive evidence still absent) but it will be comparatively small to other endocrine disrupting agents (eg. hormones in tap water, hormones in non organic dairy and meat, processed foods, etc.). Should also caution that simply looking for the word paraben and thinking anything not containing it is 'safe' is also flawed, you really need to understand what the alternatives are and their safety levels as demonstrated by another thread I saw on here today that the Liz Earle C&P is recalling 15,000 units due to bacterial infection, a 'quite resistant' to antibiotic one at that Shock!

Are you looking at the Age Confidence one from Pai, Pupsie? I really rate that one and prefer it over their rosehip bestseller, it's lovely and nourishing without being excessively rich (high in lipids too), I really like Kukui Oil which is difficult to find in cosmetics but the research (though limited) is very promising on it. It also has Sea Buckthorn Oil which is an old remedy for rosacea (kukui is traditionally used in Hawaii for dry skin and psoriasis) and Pai is generally pretty good for sensitive skins who tolerate natural skincare well (I couldn't get on with their moisturisers though, texture was awful).

botemp · 06/11/2016 09:30

How could I forget to mention the most important bit! I got my Deciem order in yesterday the delivery man is alive and untraumatised, sorta.

Used the Retinol last night, no stinging or tingling though (or did I misremember you saying that Hollin?), Vit C in tube is kinda annoying as it's hard to dose properly and I'm pretty sure that'll go quick and me having to put the excess product elsewhere on the body. Had a bit of stinging when I tried it on my hand but not on face Confused.

I'm really impressed with the level of packaging for the boxes and frosted glass bottles considering the prices. It all sort of smells medicinally, the lactic acid especially, it hasn't made my KP disappear overnight and maybe it's psychosomatic but it does look somewhat calmer.

Pupsiecola · 06/11/2016 09:46

I did mean the Rosehip Bo but will look at those others. Glad your stuff has arrived. I agree re the Vit C dispensing. Glad it's not just me! I have ordered the full size BHA from PC as that's working great on me.

I read Caroline Hiron's blog post just now about a body oil. She talks about using body oils now as she found herself stretching her serums down to her décolletage. I thought we were meant to take facial skin care down there?! Mine has without doubt improved so I will continue what I'm doing. Obviously using twice as much product but then my products aren't hugely expensive.

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botemp · 06/11/2016 09:56

Sorry for the confusion, the Age Confidence Oil contains Kukui (it's the first INCI) and Sea Buckthorn Oil.

I have not read it, but John Carsten's digested read instead of Dita von Teese's Beauty manual/book which basically came down to dip your bits in your most expensive face cream Shock!

Anyhow... yes, I don't buy skincare I couldn't afford to take down to the breast/decolletage area and I prefer body oil to lotion these days too but find Weleda (I think they're officially massage oils) perfect for this at the right price and apply when I'm still slightly damp. Body looks to be the next big money spinner (specifically with active ingredients) for the cosmetic industry and why I'm sensibly using Ordinary stuff for it.

Pupsiecola · 06/11/2016 10:14

Thanks. Of course the Age Confidence is twice the price lol. I'd be interested to hear how you get on with The Ordinary Retinol as I will be looking for an alternative soon, once my LRP is used up.

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Dulcimena · 06/11/2016 10:16

Morning all :)

Interesting that you mention oleic and linoleics, Bo, I spent quite some time looking at this. In the aftermath of retin-a and not being able to use 90% of what I had been using, I created various spreadsheets of product ingredients, looking for common trigger ingredients and concluded that oils high in linoeics were generally better for me. I haven't tried Egyptian Magic, mainly because of the olive oil (high in oleic). I'm not sure if my skin's more settled now because it's recovered or because I baby it - there are some ingredients that still definitely cause problems, eg cyclopentasiloxane. I haven't heard anything about sea kelp so I'll look into that - thanks - but avoid the sheetmask you mention!

yongnian you have my sympathies. You mention daktarin, is it seb derm that you get when it flares up? I ask because that was the point at which I ditched retin-a. I had itchy, red scales around my eyebrows, mouth and nose and it was just grim. I just couldn't settle it, bloody horrendous period. What we do for vanity, eh. If yours is seb derm too, it will get worse in winter when it's damper and darker. I'm not sure if the science backs it up, but I feel that taking vitamin d from autumn onwards helps.

Hollin I love TK Maxx too! They had some of your cushion fdtns in mine yesterday, also some stuff from Etude House and Elizavecca Milky Piggy (love the name), and Pai rosehip oil. I spend ages googling reviews for everything that looks interesting, the staff probably think I'm nuts Blush

Dulcimena · 06/11/2016 10:20

PS my ordinary Vit C comes in a dropper bottle (the 23% suspension) and it's a pain. Shame that the tube isn't much better. I'll be interested to hear what your thoughts are on the range!

Pupsiecola · 06/11/2016 10:25

The Ordinary Vit C I have is in a tube. I did read that they read changed the packaging according to customer feedback? Did you buy yours a while ago dul?

I have bought the Pai oil, and a Weleda Lavendar body oil. #bomademedoit. I was looking at the travel size set of oils but it's quite pricey by comparison. The skin on my body is in good nick and I do look after it, moisturising daily. It would be good to try an oil :-)

My face feels lovely and soft today. I did my evening routine at about 6pm. Then the Argan Oil before bed. Do you think that's a good plan, oil before bed (not necessarily daily).

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Dulcimena · 06/11/2016 10:39

It was a little while ago, pupsie, and yes, I think I read that too. Pretty rapid switch.

Genuine LOL at that hashtag by the way Grin

botemp · 06/11/2016 10:40

I'm thinking of transferring mine to an airless pump (cheap on ebay), in comparison to the glass bottles the tube looks kind of cheap anyway.

I do that sometimes, especially in winter, just tap in another layer of oil or do a lymphatic drainage massage before bed (helps me sleep better too).

Kelp ferment extract is a pain to source as it goes by various names. La Mer creme is the most famous one (but is basically nivea creme plus the bioferment extract) and the other one of the top of my head but is worth considering is Shark Sauce, it's a serum made by an AB enthusiast/blogger former biochemist (I think) turned pro and it mostly targets hyperpigmentation but it is equally good for skin repair containing kelp ferment extract (Lactobacillus/Nereocystis Luetkeana Ferment Filtrate) and 5% Niacinamide. Find it here, you can buy a sample first too. Comes from the US but you can order a sample size first, does contain methylparaben but I think in this case that is highly preferred as much as I trust her hygiene standards, I wouldn't buy anythin from a DIY/non - industrial setting without a decent preservative in their formulation.

It'll take me a bit to get an impression on the Retinol, I did use my Verso eye serum (retinol8) at the same time yesterday and that felt as effective as ever and since I use it all preventatively it'll be hard to really gage anything substantive in terms of wrinkles and fine lines but I'll be keeping an eye out for texture and breakouts (basically if my skin stops being good I'll probably blame the Retinol, Vit C is more a volume and brightening thing for me and Niacinamide a complexion and pore thing).

botemp · 06/11/2016 10:42

Should probably proof read in the morning... apologies for duplicate sentences and general vagueness...

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