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Skincare Ingredients

999 replies

Pupsiecola · 18/10/2016 16:08

Following on from the skincare routines post, what ingredients do you make sure you include in your products, for example, Vit C, Vit E, Hyaluronic acid?

TIA

OP posts:
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Pupsiecola · 03/11/2016 22:13

What are these cushion foundations all about then? Anyone used them?

OP posts:
hollinhurst84 · 03/11/2016 22:23

Yes! I got one and really like it
Dab sponge in, dab on face and done

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 09:32

Which one do you have, holling? I'm "in the market" for a new foundation and though I've found an absolute perfect match in Chanel VL Aqua I want something with a tiny bit more coverage.

botemp · 04/11/2016 09:42

I'm always going back and forth on the cushion foundations. I like the idea of them but then the whole hygiene aspect bothers me, the applicator sponges are also notoriously difficult to clean though you can buy a pack of ten on eBay (all cushion foundations are made by Amore Pacific with the same parts, even the western brands simply supply the formulation).

Purely from a point of packaging lust I like the YSL one but considering it's only 15ml I find it a hard justification to buy for the sake of convenience as I don't ever find the necessity to touch up during the day. The Korean ones are tougher since they have limited shades but you can get baby versions to try out and there are some swatches out there but above nw/nc15 it's more difficult to get a good match since they favour looking pale.

hollinhurst84 · 04/11/2016 10:02

Cushion wise I have a'pieu air fit which is slightly too yellow, I need a shade lighter but it somehow works!
BB cream dollish veil vita in purple (my HG one!) which I adore

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 10:04

Yes, botemp, the the YSL is an object of desire. Sooo beautiful! I did try it in ICI but found it a bit "sticky" compared to VLA which truly feels like nothing and has a pretty amazing effect, I find. And I too never touch up foundation during the day, just concealer or so.

botemp · 04/11/2016 10:14

I like VLA too (haven't bought it in a while though). I'm desperately trying to finish off a Givenchy one (balm couture) that isn't as nice anymore than when I bought it (the beauty blender helps enormously) and then I'll be getting GA luminous silk which is really, really lovely and mixes well with LM tinted moisturiser too which is my day to day staple.

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 10:26

Oh I do want to try the LM. My Clinique CC cream is almost finished, and though it's pretty perfect for me I'm curious to try smg else (have to check they haven't added silicones to that as well Angry).
Of course that means I will have to go to Skins Grin

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 10:27

Just got a mail from Deciem saying my order has been shipped!

botemp · 04/11/2016 10:35

I got my shipping email confirmation on Wednesday and somehow missed it and complained about the lack of it on here but it's with Royal Mail Shock, which means it will take forever to get here and absolutely no info on it as soon as it arrives at Heathrow (been there since yesterday morning, will now start taking bets on when it actually gets here, can be days, can be weeks). I thought we were spoiled with PostNL, but no, even the French outperform the RM and that's saying something...

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 10:43

Yeah, we are truly spoiled with PostNL, and my delivery guys are so nice!

botemp · 04/11/2016 11:05

Mine too, in complete contrast DPD are awful (one bangs really loudly on the delicate stained glass of my door despite there being a doorbell and repeatedly asking him not to Angry) and one once showed up smoking a joint, thankfully the package wasn't anything smell sensitive but did report it since it was completely unprofessional never mind illegal to drive around like that. I always choose a DPD pick-up point if I can (who are lovely thankfully) when it's coming from abroad you don't always have that choice unfortunately.

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 15:10

We also have that lovely stained glass, but perhaps luckily only on the windows Wink

Dulcimena · 04/11/2016 16:30

You ladies know your stuff, I have much respect for the geekery!

Would appreciate your advice please. My skin is dry, dehydrated, reactive with fine lines. I'm looking to increase moisture levels, smoothness and get that elusive "glow".

The quick backstory is that I trashed my skin with Retin-A about 10 years ago, it became extremely reactive and I went completely back to basics. I've just turned 40 and over the past 6 months I've started to gradually re-introduce some actives - AHAs, hyarulonic acid, vit C, matrixyl (Ordinary Buffet).

I really need to up my moisturiser game though, so what would you recommend? Open to any suggestions, but I have a preference for natural/organic when possible, and post tretinoin, I react to silicones (except dimethicone) and some oils (coconut, most actual nuts, jojoba). I have read about the Mizon snail cream but I'm not sure if it'd be enough for dry skin, what are your thoughts?

Jealous of the stained glass by the way :)

botemp · 04/11/2016 18:24

Wait till you see a bill for the repair/restoration of some stained glass, all jealousy will dissipate instantly Wink.

I think the Mizon cream only really addresses dehydration and offers little in terms of occlusive properties, which isn't all that unusual in Asian skincare since it's comprised of more steps. I wouldn't really class that as natural/organic skincare though, it has dimethicone, butylene glycol, a few PEGS, and parabens (if you care about those things).

Interesting about your Retin-A experience, I read recently that the success of Retin-A (on its own) was only about 30%, as in 30% of users were able to tolerate it without needing supplementary prescriptions (no mention of additional OTC skincare products) to combat its side effects. It doesn't really make for the best track record and why it always troubles me when an anti-ageing regime of SPF + Retin-A is touted where for most that wouldn't cover the basics of a tolerable routine never mind manage that without some sort of supervision.

I think in terms of a moisturiser it's going to be difficult to find a moisturiser in the organic/natural realm that delivers on both the hydration and occlusive front (at least I've never found it, and I've really looked). I would say Asian brands are a good direction to look at. Also their approach of layering an occlusive moisturiser on top of a hydrating lotion or essence would suit you.

I think Whamisa is worth looking at, it's organic certified and primarily a fermented natural origin skincare brand (as mentioned above fermented skincare is awesome, I need to get my notes on it together for more elaborate explanation but in brief, fermentation allows for dense nutrient rich formulas without compromising viscosity, ie. you get more of all the skin goodness in light textures without losing all the good stuff as would happen with concentration/evaporation). Whamisa is chock-full of lactobacillus ferments which as mentioned in the probiotics post above are great for acne prevention and rosacea (so a good bet for the sensitive/reactive skinned too). They recently opened up a UK webshop and the prices are surprisingly reasonable, ebay is only a few pounds cheaper but with longer delivery times.

The Organic Flowers Toner Deep Rich would be my pick as an intensive hydrator for AM and PM. Here's a good and comprehensive review on it.

I was going to suggest the Hauschka Rose cream but that has peanut oil. The Double Rich Lotion from Whamisa seems to have jojoba, one of their creams (possibly the water one) may be suitable but reviews on those are a bit mixed. Another one worth looking into but not strictly organic (but somewhat on the natural side of things) is the Blithe Tundra Chaga Pressed Serum (I'm linking to the easiest option with all ingredients available but this will be significantly cheaper purchased from eBay), it's a really weird texture but intensely hydrating and occlusive, perfect for winter (though I still suggest using a hydrating toner with this).

Most western brands tend to be coco or jojoba based, the ones I've thought of so far have either one or both. Will think on it a bit more, it's times like these that I wish I had better programming skills so I could just create a website where you could plug in your sensitivities and preferences and get a whole list of suggestions with user reviews.

EnidButton · 04/11/2016 18:51

Ooh I like the look of that toner.

The dry flaky bit on my nose seems to have gone by using Vichy hydration serum and LRP hydreane (legere) moisturiser. I know I said I wanted to avoid HA but the moisturiser seems to be reducing the congestion and there's zero oiliness. It was a back of cabinet rejects one so I haven't been using it on my lower cheeks, jaw or chin as it probably broke me out there when I used it before.

I'm going to see how I get on with treating parts of my face differently. I do that with my body skincare so makes sense to try it with my face as it seems to be a patchwork of different types.

EnidButton · 04/11/2016 18:52

Oh and I've also been using Nip+Fab dragon's blood pads on my nose every other day.

yongnian · 04/11/2016 20:40

Shuffles in sheepishly and slowly puts up hand - me too dulcimena. Well, at least I think that's what happened to cause my forehead weirdness. Never had it until dabbling with A313 on my forehead lines. Interesting that you say it happened to you too. I don't think I have quite as many resulting sensitivities resulting, but definitely quite a few and the skin does seem wrecked.
I am extremely careful with it now and stick to only things I know don't make it react. What did you do to restore things? I'm glad you came on, I don't feel quite so much of a t*t now!!
Good recs as ever bo

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 20:51

From my experience with my own dry previously dehydrated skin you've got to attack the problem on all fronts - you want to add hydration and IMO also oils but you also need to create multiple layers of hydration.

Cleansing - use only oil or balm (w/o MO or plastics) cleansers. AM I use LRP Toleriane cause it's so easy to wash off.
Once a week clarifying mask (or if you need very gentle pink or yellow clay mask left for no more than 3-5 min)
Acid toner - this is very important for the dehydration, because you exfoliate the "dead" cells and allow renewal (P50 is the best!).
Spray - as a first hydration step
HA serum
At the moment I'm using PM a thicker serum above this - Sulwhasoo GOA ampoule. I bought ten samples in tiny flacons (total 30ml). Not super handy but very cheap compared to the price of the serum itself. This is majorly hydrating and is truly the best smelling skin care I've ever had!
Sheet mask once or twice a week - also adds hydration
Oil - I use Clarins lotus oil or Caudelie Polyphenol oil and have a sample of the lovely Sulwhasoo ginger oil
Over night mask or gelly

This is my PM routine give or take. I know it sounds like a lot but I really enjoy it and it truly pays off.
Obviously it's taken me quite a while to build this up, so please don't feel you have to adapt all these steps immediately or spend €€€€.
I also use SC retinol a few times a week, but I would stay away if I were you until your skin is better behaved. Same for Vit C. In any case, don't use more than one active product per routine and introduce new things one a time, so you know exactly what works and what does not.

In the AM I also use a spray, different serum one or two drops of Pai rosehip oil and moisturizer... And of course SPF every single day.

I have been using the Mizon Black Snail cream for about a week. It looks thick in the jar but when you apply it it thins out like a serum, so it's not an option for moisturizer or occlusive.
I very thick cream you might like is Caudelie Vinosource Riche. It's not an organic brand, but a very "clean" one. I use it on emergency dry days and it's amazing but very thick.

botemp · 04/11/2016 21:31

Unfortunately the Caudalie's third ingredient is, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, which are coconut oil derived fatty acids.

I think the Skinceuticals Retexturing Activator serum I mentioned upthread with hydroxyethyl urea may be worth looking at too (though obviously not natural/organic). Urea and Ceramides both are ingredients to look for when dealing with a compromised moisture barrier, I'll have a think about who plays into that on the natural field.

Enid, I hadn't considered that before but the whamisa toner is HA free (I say from memory) so provided none of the other ingredients are irritants it could work for you.

AuroraPolaris · 04/11/2016 21:57

Ah sorry about the Caudelie. I'm also sensitive to coconut oil, but not to its derivatives.

Well, I guess this is what this thread is all about. Educating ourselves to read and understand INCI lists taking into account our personal needs and sensitivities.
Of course I would advise everyone to apply this principle to food as well Grin

Dulcimena · 04/11/2016 22:11

Gosh so much to respond to - thanks very much for these suggestions, Bo and Aurora! Really appreciate your time :)

I think I have got used to looking at organic/natural because that made it easier to avoid silicones (nemesis #1), but I'm not bound to them. That said I've never really got on with Dr H Rose - used to love the Quince cream but post Retin-A haven't been able to tolerate any Dr H, which is sad. I've never been that impressed by Caudelie - although I think I liked one of their eye creams once. I'm not familiar with their current offering to be fair. My tolerance of oils aren't an exact science to be honest, often it depends where they sit on the ingredients list and with what else - sunflower, safflower, rubis oils are all great for me and I try to look for them in highest concentrations. Weleda were good for a while, but I think they changed formulas and weren't quite as moisturising. I shall look up the other suggestions now - there are some brands you've mentioned that I don't know at all which is quite exciting, thank you.

Very interesting about the 30% retin-a response! I admit that I get a bit Hmm when it's treated on here as first resort skincare. yongnian I'm sure there are more of us! I tried it at diff concentrations and methods of application over the course of a year and it was the worst thing I have ever done to my skin, honestly. For me, it was trying to work out which specific ingredients my skin could no longer handle and trying to use the most benign products possible, shortest ingreds lists etc. I reckon it took around a year to stabilise. How long's it been since yours was compromised?

Thinking about routines, I've never found an oil cleanser that didn't dry me out, I currently use Bioderma + Ren rosa centifolia cleansing gel (non foaming but wash-off) in the pm, and the Ren in the morning. I hear what you're saying about layering, Aurora, I'll give some thought to what I have and how I could use it more effectively. I actually bought P50W yesterday - but I am as you say gradually introducing things to check tolerance so may not open it for a few weeks. I'd forgotten about using facial oils - we had the bathroom done recently and many of my skincare options are still in boxes, I'll revisit what I have in.

Lots of food for thought...

Dulcimena · 04/11/2016 22:31

This is what I have been using recently:
am
Ren rosa cleansing gel
EITHER Ordinary Vit C suspension OR Ordinary Buffet + Hada Labo HA premium
Korres yogurt sunscreen SPF30

pm
Bioderma sensibio followed by Ren rosa cleansing gel
EITHER Ordinary 2% retinoid OR was trialling the Ordinary lactic 10% but I don't like it so that's been dropped
HL HA serum
Sukin hydrating moisturiser or NZ Skinfood nourishing moisturiser (neither really cutting the mustard)

EnidButton · 04/11/2016 23:19

Brilliant bo thank you. It's now on my buy next list.

Interesting about urea.

botemp · 05/11/2016 10:05

Aside from the Rose Cream all of Dr. H's moisturisers are alcohol (den.) based, the same goes for Weleda so that might be the common issue (and doesn't help with dehydration much ime).

I do understand your gravitation towards natural/organic skincare, I was much the same for a while as so many synthetic things were irritating it just feels somewhat easier but I do find the better formulated stuff (so not alcohol based) comes in significantly pricier while failing to perform as well as the non-organic products at that price point.

These days I use the simplest moisturiser (something like the SVR Sensifine but I think might not be rich enough for you but you could buffer in some facial oil) for day and tend to rely on an additional hydrating product (currently it's a Naruko Magnolia night gelly which Aurora and I both like a lot) and then cold pressed (organic) oils at night. That works best for me but since you haven't been playing around with oils for a while see what your forgotten stash yields and try incorporating them into your current moisturisers/layering them. Are you not missing a moisturiser for the day currently, or is the Korres moisturising enough?

Taking into account the 30% number is what's recorded of users under proper medical supervision, I shudder to think what the number would be if they included the off prescription use. There must be many more, and while I can't argue that Retin-A is the proven anti-ageing ingredient I've never been of the belief that it works on its own or that continued long term use is beneficial to all.