Skincare Ingredients

[Pupsiecola]

Following on from the skincare routines post, what ingredients do you make sure you include in your products, for example, Vit C, Vit E, Hyaluronic acid?

TIA

I agree with botemp re amounts, though if your oil is a "dry oil" (like Caudelie Polyphenol) you might want up to 5 drops to have enough for massage.
Eye cream should be the amount equivalent to a tiny worm or (long) grin of rice.

I compiled this for the AB thread but figure I may as well share it here too since it's INCI related and we've discussed ingredients to avoid, this covers several countries and their legislation:

Got my banned EU INCI list done (was a lot more ingredients than I expected) also added in Canada, Japan, and a bit of Denmark.

If anyone's Danish (or just speaks/reads it) I'd be much obliged if you can find me their additional banned ingredient list for cosmetics as I couldn't find it on their official govt. website and only found a database you could search one ingredient at a time (in Danish- I can watch it on TV and understand it mostly but that's about it ). So far I only have one UV filter and some info on phthalates in children's toys. The latter I didn't include.

I've also added, in separate tabs, the further restrictions with max % and specific uses for EU, Canada, and the EU list of potential endocrine disruptors (sort of a watch list).

Link thing here: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1bp2eLS66dNcXtw4S8mp9OqNLYYwxAHJSXdjnXCU4MUQ/edit?usp=sharing

To search simply use the search option (CTRL+F), you need to use the expanded one (click on the "..." button) if you want to search all tabs at once.

Despite my fear of getting back to butter as a moisturiser... I read an interesting blog post about probiotics in skincare (please ignore the 20,000 times the author desperately tries to get you to click an affiliate link in between EVERY single paragraph).

Aurora and I were discussing it briefly on the AB thread but it was related to the Ordinary's Buffet Serum (which is a probiotic offering). The blog post is mostly about the benefit of probiotics taken internally for acne prone skin but also about its skin benefits for hydration, producing naturally occurring lactic acid, and anti-ageing. I know the gastrointestinal tract is having a bit of a moment in the medical world in terms of new possibilities (I definitely want some of that bacteria strain that never lets you gain weight) recently but the research on probiotics isn't anything new (hello Yakult!).

Anyhow there is some limited research that topically applied probiotics to skin do have effect, and it is of special interest to conditions like rosacea and atopic dermatitis.

From personal experience I have to say I don't consider it a huge miracle worker in skincare, I've tried several product from the Aurelia Probiotic skincare line (probiotics is their entire USP) but since no concentrations are given it might all be very mild anyhow and I may not have had skin that would see huge improvements/changes on that ingredient alone. The products aren't terrible (I love the cleanser though don't think there's any probiotics in that one) but it's all rather pricey and didn't address my hydration needs (like most 'natural' skincare). So it is interesting that the Ordinary is jumping on the probiotic bandwagon with what is arguably one of their most accessible products being based on two somewhat unproven but promising ingredients- Peptides and Probiotics. I'll be sticking with my probiotics in my bio-yoghurt for now but I'll be curious to see what people who use the Buffet serum make of its effect, though I'll probably be hard pressed to find someone who only used this from the Ordinary in a pretty standard routine... in the name of sheer curiosity I'm half tempted to do it myself... stop me now, please?

Gosh that spreadsheet is amazing. Must have taken ages. Thank you for sharing!

Posted this on other thread by accident:-

I have just put my Neostrata SPF50 on. About an hour after my moisturiser, which I applied about 20 minutes after the Vit C. Hmmm. Strong tingling. No tingling before the SPF50. Not taken it off. Seeing if it settles. Odd reaction though? Not done that before with the SPF on over the top.

Strange, SS INCI are always a bit more difficult to read as they use a lot of odd ingredients but nothing's in there that jumps out at me that would not play well with vitamin C.

You can wash off Vit C after 20-30 mins, by that time the effective actives have penetrated down far enough. I'm rather curious to the Ordinary Vit C and its stinginess as reports are really mixed on it (the stinginess that is). Deciem have been awfully quiet ever since I ordered, don't know if that means it's on its way or that they're waiting on stock .

In other news, I take it back about limited success with probiotics. In Asian skincare they're termed 'fermented ingredients', I already mentioned galactomyces (a by product of Sake brewing) which my skin likes a whole lot and have found them to be very effective.

Thanks Bo. That's really handy to know re rinsing it off. I like the SS and not had issues before. And I'm not rejigging my routine again to move Vit C to evening! Fermented foods very big at the moment aren't they, as is microbiome health. Did you say the skincare is good for rosacea or did I imagine that?

I was looking at Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vit C + E as per that article some one posted on Vit C plus Dr. Sam's recommendation. I think it will be worth me trying an alternative.

Anyone familiar with Josh Rosebrook?

If it's easily available in Europe that is probably a good one as it contains ferulic and Vit E (at a low pH) which the Ordinary doesn't which is a bit of a missed oppurtunity when it comes to Vit C. I also like that they do a 15% version which is the concentration I prefer as part of an antin-ageing routine,

Thing I've noticed with the Ordinary's Vit C is not so much stingy-ness (unless I stray somewhere irritated with it by accident) but even if I put it on bare skin (well, cleansed, toned) as soon as I put my LRP anthelios SPF on it, it balls super badly. So I might try the washing it off trick actually, didn't know that. Can't really shift it to evening because of the nights I'm using A313.

Another interesting comparison and review http://www.hotandflashy50.com/vitamin-c-serum-comparison-timeless-paulas-choice-css/

Oxidised after 1.5 months ! Well that's the CSS scrapped off the list. If the Ordinary doesn't work out I'll be back to my Skinceuticals sample plan.

This is the moisturiser I picked up
Not keen but oh well, it's cheap and inoffensive! My mizon snail gel is on its way
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Skinfood-2-Light-Moisturiser-100mls/dp/B001D81YIA

I agree Bo. It's available here:-

swedishface.co.uk/vitamin-c-e-serum

Just read that thread. Yep. Off my list too. The Timeless one?

The Timeless has an alcohol delivery system and fragrance so it's a no for my skin.

Oh bum. It's a minefield isn't it.

It's how I ended up halfway to DIYing. Nufountain C20+ Ferulic is still worth a go I believe (through Amazon.com) but I fear the custom charges (American packages always get stopped here).

I think OST C 21.5 is probably also worth a go. The problem is it is exclusive to Wishtrend, and thus ships from the US which makes the shipping expensive for us Europeans.

I also haven't heard anything from Deciem, but I don't really need theta studs urgently so.....

I thought the OST20 was the preferred one (something about the texture and turning orange). Wishtrend is in Seoul btw, ordered my Red Serum from them. Shipping is free over a certain amount and certain products come with free shipping.

Sorry you might be right botemp. It's just that when I wanted to order the 21.5 it showed pretty high shipping in USD so as you might remember from the AB thread I gave up.... enter The Ordinary, which I really hope I will like

... and I don't get why the simpler formulation of the 21.5 (vs the C20) has to be double (!!!!!) the price????

Ugh, that and all the necessity for refrigeration made me give up on the Koreans. I hope I'll like the Ordinary one too but somewhat hesitant at the same time. I think Mario Badescu was working on something new beyond their current Vit C 7.5% offering too.

Drunk Elephant was also on my shortlist but until they start selling it in Europe importing from the US came in around the same price as Skinceuticals when it's about 2/3 of the price (still not cheap) but I liked the airtight pump packaging and ingredients.