Yes, it's 'just a roast dinner' - but no other roast dinner in the year is built up and anticipated as much as this one is. I was watching one of Jamie Oliver's Christmas food programmes, and he called it the most important meal of the year - and I think that, even if you don't want to buy into the hype, messages like that can ramp up the stress even if you don't want them to.
I also think that the general stress of Christmas - all the other things that need to be done, worrying about presents, worrying about the cost of it all, worrying about disappointing people - all of that builds up, and spills over onto the Christmas dinner.
And I know that we don't have to put ourselves under all the stress, and we can keep things lower key - and hence lower stress - but that isn't easy, amidst all the hype.
I know that, over the years, I have let myself get more stressed about cooking Christmas dinner than any other meal - and I'm not a bad cook, so it's well within my capabilities. But I have developed a plan, and learned what I can do beforehand, to make things easier on the day, and that does help.
The most important thing I do is lists. Long, exhaustive ones, of everything that needs doing in the run up to Christmas, lists of who's getting presents and what they're getting, a last minute list for Christmas Eve, and a list, with timings, for Christmas day.
I also cook ahead and freeze stuff - the braised red cabbage and the stuffing are made and in the freezer, and I've peeled and frozen the chestnuts, so I'll have less to do on Christmas Eve.