The lovely friendly perfumistas thread 30: summer has arrived (allegedly) and we all smell incredible 😉

[Mrs08]

Hi all,
Couldn't see a new thread?
Hope this one is OK!

[FragrantlyScent]

Very excited to be making my first ever order from perfume parlour. I'm getting a big bottle of their dupe of MM By the Fireplace (thanks to a tip from Artdeco), and was thinking of getting their version of YSL Opium too. It would be a crime not to get a few samples of other things too, right? Fellow perfumistas, do you have any suggestions of other good dupes I could try at the same time? Or, equally, anything I should definitely avoid?

[Artdecolover]

Their opium is amazing 👏
I rate their version of mmm WITL too

[FragrantlyScent]

Hmmm, might have to order a sample of Captured by Candlelight as well, MrsR. I've not explored 4160Ts yet, but my curiosity is aroused. Anything even remotely Christmassy will always get my attention.

I don't mind boozy notes per se. If the balance of notes is deftly managed, booze to me makes the fragrance smell richer. Particularly rum notes with vanilla, which smells very comforting, I think. But that just might be because spiced run and Cola is my favourite drink The opening of Aramis JHL (which smells like the result of a thressome between Opium, Youth Dew and Cinnabar even though that is not biologically possible ) is quite alcoholic, but it comes across briefly as the smell of old paper money, before developing into something quite festive.

[FragrantlyScent]

Ooh, the smell of old books! Will take a look, thanks Artdeco.

[Artdecolover]

Well, youth dew is warm coca cola to me and that's no bad thing imo 😋

[Artdecolover]

@FragrantlyScent I actually prefer the pp dupes of mmm byf and mmm witl!!

[FragrantlyScent]

When ordering a sample from Perfume parlour, is the roll-on or small spray better? The roll-on is cheaper, but I've never used that format before. Does it still give a good 'representation' of the strength and sillage of the scent? Hmm... 🤔

[Artdecolover]

The roll ons hurt my skin....

[MrsRLynde]

I have such terribly mixed feelings about the PPs.

Let me tell you about Le Perfume de Therese and her PP equivalent. I purchased the PP as I couldn't quite believe they'd attempt a Roudnitska and I fully expected it to be a waste of my very small investment. Trying them side by side has proved tricky as the PP is a fog horn to LPdT's sonata, but here goes:

LPdT has a sublime, restrained and naturalistic fruit/citrus opening, whilst not quite bitter, is gently complex and fragrant. This is joined by subtle spice and woods (conjured from the rose and the vetiver?) - this is rich like sun-warmed summer skin.

PP's Spanish Scent opens with a fugly bug spray citrus and melon combo which runs on a little longer. The not quite bitter quality comes through later, in a more pronounced and exhilarating form, with soft spice (like carnation) underneath. This exhilarating sub-bitter fruit/citrus combo, plus the below the line spice blasts on for a long time

Unsurprisingly the Roudnitska is exquisite and at every moment in its complex evolution is breathtakingly beautiful.

PP is an exaggerated and broad brush interpretation, and has some unappealing stages. It crunches through the gear shifts. Somewhat unexpectedly it does seem to represent the building blocks at the heart of LPdT. It serves these up in a beltingly hearty and rustic approximation, compared to the cool, refined precision of the real deal. As the heart stage wears on they draw marginally closer, although LPdT features a leather note, so subtle and soft it is almost a musk, whilst the PP keeps powering on in the same mode.

There is such a strikingly beautiful melacholic accord at the heart of LPdT, that even this coarse sham is hugely enjoyable. And it wears as a genuine, if flawed, homage to the original, rather than something which is pleasant enough, but bears little relationship. That exceeds all expectations I had for it.

So what is a skint Perfumista to do? When I pay off the mortgage I fantasise that I will head first to Frederic Malle and hand over my £210 for 100ml of this. In the meantime I will eke out my 3.5ml (strictly high days and holidays).

But sometimes I will reach for the PP, and spray with abandon, and enjoy the rough hewn reminder of the idea of LPdT. But I will feel like a bad person whilst I do it, and feel I am letting the great man and his sublime craft down.

[Judystilldreamsofhorses]

I feel funny about perfume “dupes” too @MrsRLynde. I know it is all smoke and mirrors (marketing is my job!) but I would rather wear no perfume or eg Yardley/Body Shop than a knock-off. Likewise I would prefer to carry a Tesco canvas shopper rather than a fake Gucci bag.

(I know the majority of people disagree with me though, and I am fine with that!)

[Artdecolover]

Dupes are fine with me
No one thinks they are getting the original:)
But some are better than others certainly
I love 4160 because of their ethical stance and the fact its all done in house
I love their quirkiness but obviously you pay for that
I don't really like paying £££ so perfume houses owned by huge conglomerates can rent space in department stores or pay ££££££ to "celebrities" to advertise their wares.
But it's a divisive subject so I accept my view is not for all :)
Also, Perfume sales go up every year (and are currently at record levels..) So I don't feel I'm depriving the companies :)

[Artdecolover]

@MrsRLynde

I have such terribly mixed feelings about the PPs.

Let me tell you about Le Perfume de Therese and her PP equivalent. I purchased the PP as I couldn't quite believe they'd attempt a Roudnitska and I fully expected it to be a waste of my very small investment. Trying them side by side has proved tricky as the PP is a fog horn to LPdT's sonata, but here goes:

LPdT has a sublime, restrained and naturalistic fruit/citrus opening, whilst not quite bitter, is gently complex and fragrant. This is joined by subtle spice and woods (conjured from the rose and the vetiver?) - this is rich like sun-warmed summer skin.

PP's Spanish Scent opens with a fugly bug spray citrus and melon combo which runs on a little longer. The not quite bitter quality comes through later, in a more pronounced and exhilarating form, with soft spice (like carnation) underneath. This exhilarating sub-bitter fruit/citrus combo, plus the below the line spice blasts on for a long time

Unsurprisingly the Roudnitska is exquisite and at every moment in its complex evolution is breathtakingly beautiful.

PP is an exaggerated and broad brush interpretation, and has some unappealing stages. It crunches through the gear shifts. Somewhat unexpectedly it does seem to represent the building blocks at the heart of LPdT. It serves these up in a beltingly hearty and rustic approximation, compared to the cool, refined precision of the real deal. As the heart stage wears on they draw marginally closer, although LPdT features a leather note, so subtle and soft it is almost a musk, whilst the PP keeps powering on in the same mode.

There is such a strikingly beautiful melacholic accord at the heart of LPdT, that even this coarse sham is hugely enjoyable. And it wears as a genuine, if flawed, homage to the original, rather than something which is pleasant enough, but bears little relationship. That exceeds all expectations I had for it.

So what is a skint Perfumista to do? When I pay off the mortgage I fantasise that I will head first to Frederic Malle and hand over my £210 for 100ml of this. In the meantime I will eke out my 3.5ml (strictly high days and holidays).

But sometimes I will reach for the PP, and spray with abandon, and enjoy the rough hewn reminder of the idea of LPdT. But I will feel like a bad person whilst I do it, and feel I am letting the great man and his sublime craft down.

I know what you mean but honestly? I prefer the pp dupes of mmm btf and mmm witl. Ditto pp opium and some estee lauders to the originals!
Maybe it's because they are oil based??
Dunno.
Maybe I'm just a pleb 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[MrsRLynde]

Feel worst about things like LPdT. I don't agonise over the TFs to quite the same extent - but that's just a wrong headed and excessively sentimental distinction now that FM and TF are both owned by EL.

Not sure what the answer is for people who seriously appreciate perfume but are priced out of the seriously luxury goods end of things. I guess this is why dupes, the grey market and a roaring scene in decants exists?

And yes, this is a very good reason to cherish independent houses who keep things affordable.

[Artdecolover]

Sotd 4160 shazam!
I really love this...a softer version of AT LADDM

[FragrantlyScent]

Hmm... My opinion on dupes lies somewhere between all of yours.

This is my first time ordering from pp, but like Artdeco, I don't feel bad ordering a dupe of a big brand (Dior, YSL etc) perfume. I agree that most of the £££ goes on ads and celebrity endorsements etc. I also think they have reduced the quality of the ingredients used to increase profit margins, so I don't feel like my money is going where I want it to, ie paying for the perfume.

I wouldn't order a dupe of an independent/niche perfume, as I think (but don't actually know) that they use better quality ingredients, have better ethics, and mostly try to keep their products reasonably priced (at least in so much as the price we pay more accurately reflects the cost of the ingredients/labour going into the actual fragrance, rather than into creating hype). I want to support that.

Somewhat like Judy, I would never wear or use fake branded clothes, bags etc, partly due to disliking obviously branded items, but mainly because I think there is a difference between perfumes and items like clothes, shoes and bags. To me, perfumes are consumed a bit like food. Particular 'flavours' do not belong to anyone, so neither, I think, do particular 'smells'. The dupe isn't in the same packaging, calling itself the same name etc, so it's not a fake to me in the same way as a knock-off bag would be. I would never buy fake branded clothes, because in my eyes that is a kind of deception, and I would feel like a fraud. If pp, for example, called a fragrance Chanel No5, and used a copy of Chanel packaging, I wouldn't go anywhere near it.

However, I also agree with MrsR (your description of Lpdt is really beautiful, by the way). I don't think I could buy a dupe of my absolute favourite fragrances, even if they were from big conglomerates, as I would feel terrible, as though I had somehow betrayed someone or something. I do realise this is illogical and contradictory, but I suppose that's because I have a quite emotional connection to my favourites.

Also, having said all of the above, I do secretly enjoy the 'experience' of walking into a department store perfume hall, seeing all of the counters and bottles, testing this and that, and interacting with the sales assistants. I also quite enjoy receiving beautiful bottles in luxurious packaging.

Anyway, that's just my opinion on dupes. Perfume is such a personal thing, everyone will feel differently. Having read through my post though, I'm sure I sound quite irrational. 🙈

[FragrantlyScent]

Forgot to add, I plumped for ten samples from pp, because, erm... free delivery made me do it. 🙈

Will let you know what I think.

[Artdecolover]

Oooh which ones!?

[madamceladon]

Interesting discussion about authenticity everyone.
I'm wearing some 1980s Shalimar, its great!

Here's a link to my blog, a post about leather scents.
thescentfulapprentice.co.uk/smell-the-glove/

Thanks to @MissBattleaxe for being so encouraging of the community and a great blogger!

I'm feeling very tragic - last friday I severely sprained my ankle and will be in a boot / on crutches for about three months, so my world has shrunk considerably and going to the toilet alone is an epic odyssey! My perfume collection is cheering me up a lot.

[FragrantlyScent]

Artdeco, I had to make a list, as otherwise I'd never remember.

• MM, By the Fireplace
• YSL, Opium
• FM, Musc Ravaguer
• Estée Lauder, Knowing
• Hermes, Ambre Narguile
• Cartier, Baiser du Dragon
• TF, Amber Absolute
• Guerlain, Spiriteuse Double Vanille
• Guerlain, Mitsouko
• Guerlain, Samsara

I think I managed a good selection, was thinking of perfumes for autumn/winter and comfort mainly, as I have plenty of summer/refreshing things to use up atm.

[Artdecolover]

@FragrantlyScent

Artdeco, I had to make a list, as otherwise I'd never remember.

• MM, By the Fireplace
• YSL, Opium
• FM, Musc Ravaguer
• Estée Lauder, Knowing
• Hermes, Ambre Narguile
• Cartier, Baiser du Dragon
• TF, Amber Absolute
• Guerlain, Spiriteuse Double Vanille
• Guerlain, Mitsouko
• Guerlain, Samsara

I think I managed a good selection, was thinking of perfumes for autumn/winter and comfort mainly, as I have plenty of summer/refreshing things to use up atm.

Some gorgeous choices!

[Artdecolover]

@madamceladon

Interesting discussion about authenticity everyone.
I'm wearing some 1980s Shalimar, its great!

Here's a link to my blog, a post about leather scents.
thescentfulapprentice.co.uk/smell-the-glove/

Thanks to *@MissBattleaxe* for being so encouraging of the community and a great blogger!

I'm feeling very tragic - last friday I severely sprained my ankle and will be in a boot / on crutches for about three months, so my world has shrunk considerably and going to the toilet alone is an epic odyssey! My perfume collection is cheering me up a lot.

Sorry to hear that!
Hope it feels better soon x

[FragrantlyScent]

Ouch, Madam, feel better soon. Perfume always makes me feel comforted and happier.

[MrsRLynde]

@madamceladon

Interesting discussion about authenticity everyone.
I'm wearing some 1980s Shalimar, its great!

Here's a link to my blog, a post about leather scents.
thescentfulapprentice.co.uk/smell-the-glove/

Thanks to *@MissBattleaxe* for being so encouraging of the community and a great blogger!

I'm feeling very tragic - last friday I severely sprained my ankle and will be in a boot / on crutches for about three months, so my world has shrunk considerably and going to the toilet alone is an epic odyssey! My perfume collection is cheering me up a lot.

Interesting blog madam - hope you keep going with it.

You and MissB are inspiring me to resuscitate my so far secret efforts...

[Artdecolover]

@madamceladon

Interesting discussion about authenticity everyone.
I'm wearing some 1980s Shalimar, its great!

Here's a link to my blog, a post about leather scents.
thescentfulapprentice.co.uk/smell-the-glove/

Thanks to *@MissBattleaxe* for being so encouraging of the community and a great blogger!

I'm feeling very tragic - last friday I severely sprained my ankle and will be in a boot / on crutches for about three months, so my world has shrunk considerably and going to the toilet alone is an epic odyssey! My perfume collection is cheering me up a lot.

Fantastic blog btw...and quoting one of my favourite films! (Yes, I sang Stonehenge whilst visiting Stonehenge!...)

(Do you have blog post quoting Moonstruck???...one of my favourite films of all time!..)

[madamceladon]

Thanks so much both of you! I do enjoy writing it, it always takes much longer than I expect.
Yes @Artdecolover spinal tap is a film for the ages, just so damned quotable. Thanks for the moonlight recommendation, I've not seen it and it looks right up my alley.
Here's another one about perfume in The Witches.

thescentfulapprentice.co.uk/paloma-picasso-witches/

@MrsRLynde you should share your blog efforts for sure!!