Les Parisiennes de Mamansnet: Orangutans in Paris make for poor gondoliers

[botemp]

The sunshine might be fading from our passion fruit punch but we're looking forward to what autumn will bring.

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Great pictures, Peregrane and Hairy. DvN is bliss, especially the scent, and that outfit is covetable, though you'd have to be much taller than me to look decent in it.

Not getting much time to look and post, thanks to a series of visitors. Back when they leave!

I had a few bits of DvN in the early 90s, he was quite popular on the Northern club scene for some reason.

I wish I'd hoarded my early 90s wardrobe, it was awash with Pam Hogg catsuits, Wolford bodies and John Richmond clubwear. I had the best neoprene and fur structured coat. And Gucci clogs. I bloody loved those clogs.

Probably wouldn't wear any of it now, but wish I had it all for DD.

Your early 90s wardrobe sounds fab, Hairy. And bling it up as far as I'm concerned, isn't it a parental duty to horrify the DC from a certain age onwards Think that belt would pair well with the Isabel Marant boots as well. Over an oversized coat would be nice too. There was an Emanuele Alt pic that I think Elle posted on here of an oversized western denim jacket from Zara with a belt like that fastened over it.

I really feel for the H&M group CS workers too, Peregrane, it seems a bit messy at the moment. I did finally get an order confirmation today so I'm spared from interacting with them.

In the endless #bootsearch, the Aeyde kick 'em in the balls boots were disappointingly uncomfortable and too roomy in all the wrong places. Typical. I blame the patriarchy. The grey suede pair still need to come in, they were dispatched from different warehouses.

I actually did a bit of reading up on ox gall soap the other day. Apparently it's a French invention and it wasn't very popular at first as it reeked until someone thought to add Marseille soap to it. I've never used Dr. Beckmann but it is a good brand, German I think.

I really liked the Dries van Noten shows. Have been saving pics from several shows and collaging along the way but there's been so many I'm struggling to keep up. Usually I'm not that invested in shows but they've been really interesting this year. Maybe due to the musical chairs game with all the designers? I actually made a Dries collage and included that pic, Peregrane. I'll try and get a few other collages up to decorate the walls here.

You remind me of my lovely galliano waistcoat from the collection that sent him bankrupt... itvwould look pretty edgy with the skirt actually 😂 (I still mourn my red suede John Richmond trousers and thigh high Patrick cox boots... tho there is a pair of snake cox loafers kicking around the house that should have an outing this autumn!)

I keep reading ox gall soap as ox tail soup and thinking it's some weird S&B thing, like Waitrose baby bottom butter.

at Oxtail Soup!

Your 90s wardrobe sounds great hairy hands I like the outfit.

Great find on the hat quirky

My well-documented love for Dries is unlikely to ease any time soon based on that collage.

I forgot to mention that I ordered a heavily discounted pair of Tom Ford trousers - they were actually further discounted in a promotion to EUR 225, rather than the 70% showing now. The pictures on the website aren't great, but they fit perfectly and are the most gorgeous weighty silk. Thanks to botemp for introducing me to this site. They're perfect for work. www.glamood.com/silk-pants-P94548.htm

Gah, Flo I was reading baby bottom butter as the MN dragon butter thing. I still haven't googled that, sensibly, but I assume it would not go well with oxtail soup.

Trousers look fab, Elle. I had been meaning to look into their extra %off promo but was too late to snap up a pair of Celine trousers in the Yves Klein blue on there. Sigh.

Okay I've been collaging and have a attempted to somewhat group them together. I'll start with the somewhat unknown up and comers today.

Poiret- had shared pics earlier this year when #kimonomadness was in full force. She was the Chinese designer with gorgeous flowing silhouettes. I'd definitely recommend watching the show on YouTube for the added dimension movement brings to the clothes and the runway design was interesting too. Was quite drawn to the heavily layered looks and the solid colour ensembles.

Gabriella Hearst- has been around for a few seasons now, she's probably too high a price point to get much coverage in mainstream press but I am really enjoying how she's evolving with a heavier hand in the structural and sculptural coming into her signature.

Agnona- is a new discovery to me. Been around almost two years or so. Italian but very restrained on the femininity (by Italian standards) somehow but not devoid of it. Minimal but not austere, and somehow it still seems to drip money from the impeccable seams.

Oops don't know what happened with the GH pic on my phone. Putting up a better sized pic now.

I've never heard of Agnona either. Would it be fair to say it's a similar aesthetic to The Row? I had a look at the FW18 show there and it's very covetable too. The sort of looks you could ear head to toe in real life without tweaking.

Tan boots continue to prove elusive. The first ones are sold out in my size and the second are the wrong shade.

I'm out for dinner tonight so my Raey skirt from last year and new berry-coloured top are getting an outing with tights and boots.

I think that is part of the modern luxury signature, things you can put on without much thought or accessorising. Fabrics that hang well due to weight and fit, etc. Isabel Marant sort of started it in the mainstream I think, although her aesthetic is much more casual than luxe. It is that mythical effortless I suppose.

Speaking of the Row, I've been having a look at the sort of diffusion brand Elizabeth and James. Think they have a bit of an odd history, it was a tad expensive casual in the beginning, then it went cheaper and fabrics and place of manufacturing changed from the USA to China but it seems to be steadily raising prices and quality again and shedding the more boho casual vibes for things that could possibly be interpreted as the Row light. I believe the perfumes have always been really popular, but I'm no perfumista so don't take my word for it.

I really like the attached but it would be far too long for me, I fear. Love the asymmetric slant to the bottom. They also have a couple of oversized cashmere jumpers in the style of the Row at more 'reasonable' prices. I don't think I have shop access to the brand but I'd be curious to see how the quality compares to the Row.

Elle, I have a Shoptagr list for tan boots that I've shared on here before. I'll link it again for you, if you like, but I can only do it on my computer so will be later today.

House is full of delivery boxes, will have to have an extended fitting session later. The Zara burgundy mock croc ankle boots look very promising.

I shall have to look into the collaging stuff that you are doing!

I saw a new to me label that I don't think anyone has mentioned here before La Fetiche? I think some of you might like it as it's another angle on the luxurious simplicity perfected that we're all slightly obsessed by.

This is it Sadly the website is terrible and has no pictures to drool at, but the clothing pictures I've Googled (mostly from Farfetch). Agnona looks divine, but somehow I can't see it taking off in Totnes!

I had a look at your list and had to rule out most of them for one reason or another - size, colour etc. I'm really amendment that I want a block heel that's not stacked wood and is not too high so that really limits the pool.

Lovely jumper. I was attracted to a couple of Elizabeth and James pieces when I was in Liberty last, but didn't try them on.

Xing I meant to agree fervently with you about the DvN scent - one of my favourites.

I meant to say that I saw Meghan (DoS) wearing a nice green ton-sur-ton look, so maybe she is lurking after all ;-)

I'm really "amendment" - Jesus wept; I meant adamant. Apologies.

The DvN perfume is made by Frederic Malle which was fairly recently sold to Estee Lauder. Hopefully the quality of the perfume isn't compromised. It's a gorgeous sandalwood gourmand that's not overly sweet.

I'll have to have a look at those shows later. I thought Givenchy looked particularly interesting.

If you like sandalwood Elle have you tried Le Labo Santal 33? Very woody and grown up. It's a unisex, but I tend towards men's scents.

Always gets very positive comments when I wear it.

I've pretty much given up on the tan boots. Arket had some and John Lewis in their new collection that looked promising but they both sold out immediately in all sizes. (Which proves there is a market for them).

I do love your round-ups Bo. Succinct.

You must be about my age with that wardrobe Jackie, I would mourn red suede Richmond trousers too.

Love the Tom Ford's Elle, will check out the website.

Elizabeth and James have been on my radar before but slipped off, will have a look again, cheers Bo.

Oh, and nice fedora Quirky.

I do have and oversized camel Maxmara coat I may try with the above. Still a bit warm for it though.

I do like the bottom middle on the Jill Sander Bo.

Re Le Corb, my first husband was an architect, Le Corb has provided inspiration for unimaginative young upstarts for decades now. Derivative.

Never mind the Duchess of Sussex. I reckon Johnny is lurking on this thread!

Stealing other companies’ designs is bad form, Johnny.

that looks like my Theory skirt in pic 2 and didn't I do a 'wear your cardi backwards' in the advent calendar? I definitely mentioned it on here at some point and it's and obvious copy of the Sezane Barry jumper. How much is Johnny charging for such a bad copy?

I'm an architect too, Hairy, so you'll know all too well what a joy I am to live with l will never forgive LC for ruining Eileen Grey's beloved Villa E-1027 with his horrid wall paintings and generally making her life miserable. Bastard who couldn't even produce a watertight building if he tried.

Those collages are great bo - how do you do them?
On second thoughts, don't bother trying to explain - I can't even remember to post my pics the right way up. But thanks, they're much appreciated.

I'm very late to the Jil Sander party - I didn't even bother looking out for their Uniqlo collection - but I'm developing a most unseemly crush.

Sorry got all ragey there over men with little original thought who think nothing of imitation that I forgot all about my collages, which surely are a step up from LC's amateur art attempts.

Today's installment, if only Céline had turned out like that...

Haider Ackermann- I always love his work and his blazers definitely have me believing I'll bust balls wherever I go in one but surprisingly I was looking at his collection and thinking this is what Celine (without the accent aigu) could have been. It's not the same, and there's the obvious overlap of the inclusion of menswear without it feeling gendered, but there's a development of a current aesthetic rather than a cruel breakup that made the Céline customer and fans with an open mind to what was next for the brand suddenly feel like a member of the first wife club. Also on the casting front, the clothing silhouettes are slim and the models don't look worn down by troubling industry standards into looking that way. Take note HS.

Victoria Beckham- yes she's a celebrity and I usually think they should stay far away from ever calling themselves a designer but VB has earned her stripes and, incidentally, I loved her use of vertical stripes in the collection. She won't cater to the Céline client completely but her clothing will definitely not look lost next to them.

The Row- they're a bit the silent assassins in the strategy that is scalping the Céline clientèle. And I do actually think that's the Row's greatest asset, silence, they weaponise it and demand a certain reverence, visible in quite a few references to clerical clothing. See also: Gretta Gerwig in the Row at the Met Gala. Rather than playing up the mystery card the noise they do make is precise, as a result they end up speaking quite loudly. So long as you're interested in listening, that is, and they're only really interested in talking to people who wish to listen. Highly conceptual nonsense, I know, but indulge me for a bit. At least it's not full on yoga retreat speak

It's just an app on my phone Flo, it's pretty easy to use. I'd have to look up the name. As much as I love Phoebe Philo, we have to acknowledge Jil Sander was one of the first and paving the way of women focused fashion (or cerebral chic as I saw it coined somewhere, quite like that) and obviously Helmut Lang has a very legible influence in PP's work.

Lots of lovely pictures, bo. I really like the Hermes ones, especially the sandals. I spent far too long looking at sandals at the beginning of the summer . You definitely did a thing about wearing your cardigan backwards. Perhaps Johnny can join the Sunday Times in paying some commission...