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🐌 Fantastic Skincare: Hairmageddon looms...

991 replies

botemp · 20/02/2018 11:00

Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 Thread 4 Thread 5 Thread 6 Thread 7 Thread 8 Thread 9 Thread 10
Thread 11

For those who are taking a peek and wondering what this all about, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients (rather than the latest new shiny product and all its empty promises) for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Newcomers are always welcome but please note the following:

Questions and asking for help on this thread is encouraged, however, we can’t give you a specific routine to follow and hope it works out for the best. There are no overnight miracles in skincare whether it be in the form of products or techniques. It’s about perseverance, understanding your skin, assessing its needs and responding to that in a diligent manner.

These threads were created to help those who want to learn for themselves. We’re a group of interested and invested skincare nuts happy to offer tea and sympathy and dole out advice. Everyone’s journey with skincare is different, what is universal and binds us is that through actually learning about the different active ingredients it helps us get to know our skin and help us adapt as it will change many times throughout our lives - with seasons, hormonal changes, ageing, genetics etc. It's in everyone's best interests to get to know their skin and to keep reviewing those changes with the confidence that comes from the gathered knowledge here. We really encourage you to spend the time reading through previous threads and linked info sheets that the many contributors have taken the trouble to share.

By no means are we experts, we're only a bunch of amateurs that can only respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

I am very slowly working on consolidating the gathered information from previous threads into easier to read formats but it’s slow going. I would suggest reading thread 1 and at the very least the following info sheets (provided they apply to you):

Where to Start

Basics of an Actives Routine

Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions Info Sheet

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

NEWish since previous threads:

Understanding Which Sunscreen(s) to Buy

Do I Really Need to Wear Sunscreen Every Single Day of the Year?

A Damaged Skin Barrier - Now What?

FEBRUARY 2018: The month of February sucks. Period. We’re sick of winter and the state of our finances, some are embracing frugality (in different shapes and forms) but water bills and car maintenance are ruining our buzz. Hair appointments need to be made despite the palpitations of fear that the mere thought incites. Oh, and skin texture. As you were...

OP posts:
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EnidButton · 25/02/2018 00:02

I just realised I cross posted with you earlier Tant. The freaky looking skin woman was meant to be me, not you. Grin

Tantpoke · 25/02/2018 00:26

enid yes I guessed that re your dry skin comment Grin

miffy2 · 25/02/2018 00:30

Hi Lone!!! Good to see you over here :)

I bought the IT Cosmetics CC powder from beautylish but it will be a couple of weeks till I get it I reckon. I really should order samples from skinpep as a backup. Bo delivery from skinpep is free in the uk, but expensive for the rest of europe. (I can use parcel Motel at a cost of €3.95 to take advantage of the free delivery.)

Also having a slight panic every morning when I press the pump of my DE C serum. There’s no way of knowing much is left in it.

Pupsiecola · 25/02/2018 00:39

I hear you re the pumping of the DE But C Miffy Confused

Pupsiecola · 25/02/2018 00:39

Vit C lol

EnidButton · 25/02/2018 00:57

Grin Tant Just checking.

SophieLion · 25/02/2018 07:29

Morning all Smile

Enid, I'm getting a bit down about all the red marks (some quite old - a few months now) from spots. I know it's my fault for picking too and making a huge effort to stop.
How long do you reckon it takes your red marks to fade when you use Cicaplast? Appreciate it may not be the same for me.

I think I mentioned to Bo a while ago that a dermatologist told me on my skin the red marks could take up to six months to go!!! I REALLY need to stop messing around with spots. But hopefully with all the amazing advice and help I've had on this thread (thank you Thanks) I can actually stop getting spots in the first place.

Also realised my Cicaplast is out of date BlushBlush so need to buy some more.

At the airport today and think there's a Kiehls here so if time will have a look at the avocado eye cream.

SophieLion · 25/02/2018 07:35

Btw Bo, I was reading on thread 5 (or 6?) that you have PCOS. I'm sure you have it under control and I don't want to over-step the mark, but I had some issues a few years ago before my DCs and found Agnus Castus was absolutely amazing. I didn't have full on PCOS but I had similar problems. I took it in the liquid form. Drops in water.

EnidButton · 25/02/2018 09:34

Sophie Good morning Brew I have mainly used it on fresh red marks. As soon as the spot goes down. Takes 1-2 weeks in total to go. That's applying it every night a few hours before bed (so it doesn't rub off on the pillows). A spot would've left a red mark for 2-3 months previously. Some longer than that. I've put it on some lingering older (few weeks) marks when I first used it, and it helped fade those too. As it's the B5 that's the key ingredient you'd definitely need to use an in date one I think. Then it'll be more active. Fingers crossed it helps a bit.

MrsDOnofrio · 25/02/2018 09:42

Morning all, thanks for the warm welcomes, very kind. I shall try to keep this brief…

Background: Soon to be 50, perimenopausal, very oily skin (acne as a teenager, occasional spots now), wouldn’t say my skin is sensitive but it doesn’t like too much handling and is prone to flushing. Very pale and burn easily and have always had quite pink and rosy cheeks, exacerbated by being outside, hot and cold temperatures, wind, too much playing around and I blush easily. Although skin is very oily, in the last year I’ve experienced what I think is dehydration, I assume because of perimenopause but also now suspect because my skin barrier has been compromised because of…

Past treatment: soap, Nivea/Astral/Neutrogena. Have added Clarins Blue Orchid oil in the last year (smells bloody gorgeous), have also used rosehip oil occasionally with no issues.

Currently using: in true recent convert style I’ve been grabbing at all the shiny new things and have introduced cleansing with Bioderma Atoderm shower oil and added in Toleriane dermo cleanser when it arrived yesterday (like). Also bought TO The Buffet (OKish), HA+B5 (not keen, too sticky), granactive retinoid 2% in squalene (very nervous about retinoid but my skin seems to love the squalene) and rosehip oil (only used a couple of times) and Bioderma Crème (quite like). Spraying with rose water between each layer.

Issues: anti-aging (I find it difficult to be objective about any aspect of my appearance but people are usually shocked to discover my age, partly because of oily skin, genetics and probably because of my dodgy dress sense Grin. I’m not looking to knock years off so much as get my skin to look the best it can be iyswim. Flushing. Oil control. Beginners confusion vs. eagerness. My research to date suggests niacinamides and azaleic acid for the flushing and oil control, a chemical exfoliant for everything (I appear to need all of them?), still not sure about retinoids (is it worth it at 50? Have seen suggestions that best used when younger), HA and galactomyces for hydration, vitamin C and antioxidants for brightening and good tone. I have no intention of throwing them all at my face so would appreciate some guidance as to the best place to start both in terms of weaning products in and efficacy. I’m also finding it difficult to work out the most effective levels of ingredients and am trying to work my way through loads of blogs etc as well as the previous threads and some research literature (sad). The saying “a little knowledge is a dangerous thing” is very true atm.

Products I like the look of: REN ready steady glow daily AHA tonic (because research suggests I would find both AHA and BHA useful and it also contains azelaic acid?), Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence, considering Hylamide subq as it has HA at differing molecular weights but the company appears to be going into some kind of meltdown. Am very attracted to the philosophy of Face Theory and like the look of both the M3 and M4 moisturisers (although confused by their use of retinol in the M4 day cream as I thought it should only be used at night? Also their Regenacalm 2% Retinol and Vitamin C Serum, and Regena C20 20% Stabilized Vitamin C Serum look interesting. Obviously not going to introduce any of this all at the same time and will be starting the AHA stuff once a week and building up very slowly but how does this look? No niacinamides as far as I can see though. Not wedded to any of the stuff I am currently using, particularly the TO, and happy to ditch.

Any and all advice welcome.

MrsDOnofrio · 25/02/2018 09:44

OMG, that is not brief, that is ginormous Shock Blush Sorry!

P.S. I've always used spf50!

Tsmummy08 · 25/02/2018 10:50

Just checking in - 8 pages already! The days seem to be flying by.. I'm drinking my Sunday am coffee catching up....

botemp · 25/02/2018 12:10

Sophie, I don’t think glycolic/AHA will do much for your feet as they work predominantly on the upper surface layer whereas BHA/Urea work deeper down. Did come across this article, The Best Natural Deodorant Is Acid which makes for an interesting read. I’ve actually been doing this for a while with acid remnants after doing my face as the skin under my armpits tend to darken. I had been noticing that I hardly have a need for deodorant these days but hadn’t really pinpointed it to the acid use.

mint, did the oily thing happen before using the cream too or is it the first time? I’m not sure on the FAB cream, I’m not a fan of the brand as it markets itself as being for ultra sensitive skin but it’s not really accurate, it’s more for mildy sensitive skin/normal compromised skin.

enid, have you made your appointment yet? Grin On the parched skin front, I’ve been keeping an eye lately on the Eucerin lineup as they’ve been overhauling their formulations (they used to have parabens in most things, all gone now, and they’ve stripped some other irritants out). I’m thinking the Aquaporin Active for Normal to Combination skin may be good for you. It uses a special version of glycerin (Glyceryl Glucoside) for hydration rather than HA and the INCI is enticingly short (no shea, but it does contain dimethicone, can’t remember if you’re okay with that or not):

INCI: Aqua Glycerin Glyceryl Glucoside Dicaprylyl Carbonate Distarch Phosphate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Dimethicone Myristyl Myristate Octyldodecanol C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Cetearyl Alcohol Butylene Glycol Carbomer Sodium Polyacrylate Alcohol Denat Phenoxyethanol

JDSTER is it in shade 2?

Tant, sounds like the anti-inflammatory properties of the meds are helping inflammation in the skin, probably worth investigating whether you do or don’t have proper rosacea considering the response. Flowers, hope the gums are finally responding too now.

Lone, if budget is an issue, for HA serums Japan comes in far cheaper. In the realms of Hylamide and TO Buffet you can get the Hada Laba Premium lotion for the same or less money incl. delivery from Japan and it’s a 200ml bottle. There are lighter versions too, just sort of depends how dehydrated you are but the premium is the most serum like.

Speaking of Japan, Sofia, for the eternal marks, whilst impatiently waiting for mine to fade I remembered that I really should have the Melano CC Intensive Anti Spot Essence in my emergency cupboard. It’s a targeted Vit C treatment for fading spot marks left behind and they healed so much quicker for me using that. It does contain fragrance but miraculously it never irritated me.

MrsD, ahem, you start with wouldn’t say my skin is sensitive but it doesn’t like too much handling and is prone to flushing. Very pale and burn easily and have always had quite pink and rosy cheeks, exacerbated by being outside, hot and cold temperatures, wind, too much playing around and I blush easily.

I would say you’re sensitive, and possibly rosacea prone. Probably not oily either if you were able to tolerate Nivea, I think possibly your regime of soap (very stripping) and a very heavy occlusive cream encouraged excess oil. Are you a (heavy) makeup wearer? Your current regime is again heavy on occlusives, so whilst perhaps more skin friendlier products, it’s much of the same.

Onto the giant list of things you’d like to try. Yes, the appetite for the new is probably clouding your judgement. Keep it simple is the general mantra here, you don’t need a lot, you’ve done the best you can for anti-ageing by always using SPF50. I’d focus next on:

A Retinol/Prescription Vitamin A

It’s not for the young, it’s for the ageing (so that’s basically anyone over 25), the OTC generally for a budget and/or preventative standpoint and the prescription stuff once there is actual signs of ageing/you’re officially in the mature category/acne issues. However, if you are sensitive/have rosacea the prescription stuff is a tough ask sometimes.

A Vitamin C (L-AA in hydrous solution preferably) product for replenishing depleting supplies and general environmental protection

A moisturiser with Niacinamide (I’m assuming you’re looking into this for dilated pores, which I would guess are more age related and the long term oily conditions of your skin, I don’t see Niacinamide as a miracle problem solver for that. Prescription Tret is your best hope for improving that, in this scenario, the Niacinamide is a good soothing agent for the side effects).

One Acid exfoliator, if you need one, if you’re going down the Prescription Tret route, you won’t need one as that will do it all on its lonesome. Acid is the last thing to contemplate in my book, you won’t know your legitimate acid needs (and what type) until your base routine is in good order.

As for the rest, galactomyces are great for dealing with dehydration for some, not for others. It’s an iffy product and I wouldn’t consider buying into it until you’re in an ‘ideal routine’ situation and able to gauge more objectively whether it truly adds something or not. Face Theory has lost a lot of love on here much in the same way TO is currently dropping heavily in favour, the formulations and substitution of ingredients led to inconsistent batches and made the brand unreliable, unfortunately.

OP posts:
mintmagnummm · 25/02/2018 12:30

Bo it happened before but only slightly whereas when I used the fab cream after it was worse and the tiny dots of oil on surface was the first time that happened (although I had similar issue before after using face theory creams) also my skin felt more irritated after than it usually does with the eucerin after acid.

botemp · 25/02/2018 12:50

I'm not sure what's happening there then, mint. Probably best not to use the FAB on acid nights for now?

OP posts:
mintmagnummm · 25/02/2018 13:14

Think I'm gonna discontinue the fab cream altogether tbh. I don't like the 'sweating out' feeling I get like I used to with face theory.

JDSTER · 25/02/2018 14:12

Bo yes shade 2!
It’s got your name on it Wink

I did the pore cleansing routine from 50 shades of snail this morning. Skin feeling smooth as a baby’s bottom Grin

MrsDOnofrio · 25/02/2018 14:31

Bo - thank you for your prompt and detailed response, I obviously still have much to learn! Blush

I don’t wear makeup other than eyeliner, mascara and, encouraged by the Parisian thread, red lipstick. I thought sensitive skin was dry and itchy so always assumed mine was just temperamental. And I’ve been oily since my teens; I have tried other regimes over the years like Clarins and Clinique and Simple and it never seemed to make much difference but it may be that I didn’t try it long enough.

I must admit I’m surprised that you mention rosacea, my skin doesn’t exhibit any of the symptoms that I normally associate with it, I just thought I glowed in an annoying fashion Smile. But I will certainly investigate the possibility. How does one go about doing that? And asking about prescription tretinoin? Do I need to see a dermatologist because my GP will laugh me out of his office! A dermatologist would actually be useful as I have several strange things on my face that have appeared over the years, like small, hard permanent warts. I had a skin cancer scare last year and when they removed the offending item from my face, the consultant kept looking at them with his magnifying glass and asked why I didn’t have them removed. Because I didn’t know I could! So maybe I could kill several birds with one stone. Can anyone tell me how to find a good dermatologist? A quick google hasn’t come up with much locally.

I’ll go back to the drawing board with the product search; are there any brands known to be good for sensitive skin? I’ll keep it simple as advised. I didn’t realise that the products I’m currently using are similarly occlusive (I still have much to learn obviously, I though I was doing so well Confused Grin). Am I ok to bimble along with them atm or is there anything I should stop using?

Again, thank you all so much for the advice you give so freely. I hope to one day be able to contribute more than questions. Although I am fast becoming an expert on red lipstick. And spf. And hand cream (the sad thing is I’ve looked after my hands obsessively for nearly 40 years, much better than my face)

Thank you

MrsDOnofrio · 25/02/2018 14:34

Also meant to say I was disappointed about Face Theory. I’d picked up that TO isn’t overly popular but as I’m still on thread 4, I hadn’t realised that about Face Theory. I’ll catch up eventually

SallieSallow · 25/02/2018 15:13

Mint I agree with what Bo says about FAB, it is heavily marketed as being suitable for the ultra sensitive, I was surprised to find it was slightly scented, albeit very mild. It suits me fine but I think there's a couple of ingredients in there that could irritate very sensitive skin. The face wash has an even stronger scent, again medicinal rather than perfume, but I'd really hesitate to recommend that to anyone who is sensitive.

Lone I'm trialling a HA serum from a brand called Skinpep, it's vastly cheaper than hylamide sub q so I might move onto it permanently but I'm only on day 2 of using it, I'll report back in a couple of weeks.

Bo (or anyone who is knowledgeable about Asian Beauty) do you know if any of the Japanese or Korean brands do a HA spray mist at a reasonable price? I love the hand chemistry one but it barely lasts a month, even used sparingly, and it's £20ish with p&p so not very cost effective. I'd be using it on my body rather than face so I'm not so worried about it being heavy or causing spots etc.

MrsD sounds like we are a similar age and I'm also peri menopausal, well presume I am as my periods are infrequent though I've no other symptoms yet. I'm also oily but agree with Bo that your skin might have been over producing oil in reaction to the products you were using, and I'm not prone to redness or flushing. Have you always had that or do you think it might be the start of menopausal hot flushes? I've not found a derm locally to me either, all the recommended ones seem to be in London. There's gazillions of them near me but I really wanted a word of mouth recommendation rather than googling and hoping for the best!

EnidButton · 25/02/2018 15:20

That looks good Bo Thank you. Yes I have made an appointment!! 😱 Not for a couple of weeks but it's a cut and colour. I'm dubious but I've passed the undone done Parisienne line and now straying into unkempt so it will at least look cared for. That said, as soon as I'd booked it my hair immediately looked glossy and bouncy. It's like it knows. 🤔

I'll take pics of the red mag article in a bit. There's a bit on non surgical cosmetic procedures I'll post too. (Hopefully I won't get sued or something...)

mintmagnummm · 25/02/2018 15:50

Sallie yes unfortunately after a couple of uses I feel it's not right for my skin although I did love the smell/texture etc so it's a shame but hey ho. I'm just going to stick with my current routine now and switch to trying the acid before cleansing as bo suggested. I just took advantage of the 3 for 2 in boots and grabbed 2 more eucerin hand creams and another Vichy thermal water.

Pupsiecola · 25/02/2018 15:59

Should have said, I've been using the acid on the top of my feet, not the soles. I use urea on the soles.

Pupsiecola · 25/02/2018 16:02

MrsD I also thought early rosacea when I read your post. I was diagnosed about 8 years ago although I don't think you'd know to look at me as I avoid my triggers (mostly, I refuse to give up intense exercise). But changes in temperature, hot temps, cold temps, red wine, spicy food, the sun, hot drinks etc can all make me flush.

SophieLion · 25/02/2018 16:13

Thanks for the acid link Bo. Interesting and surprising read. I might try it with the Pixi Glow but not sure Liquid Gold falls within "serious daily use category" - might burn my armpits off!!! I was looking at the acid calculator in the other link you posted but it needed pH info which I don't have.

Yes, was wondering the same about acid on hard skin on feet but might try it with LG anyway just to see. Or like Pupsie, could keep to top parts of feet only.

Thanks also Bo for that vit C recommendation. I'll look that up in a bit. Would that be something I could put all over my face? Or just put it on the spots (so I would have a second vit C for general use)?