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Fantastic Skincare - Snail Optional 🐌

999 replies

botemp · 10/03/2017 16:06

Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 Thread 4 Thread 5

For those who are taking a peek and wondering whether previous threads are worth reading, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Deviations on this thread are mostly my fault. Grin

If you're in need of some advice coming to grips with your skincare routine please don't hesitate to ask, we don't bite, only occasionally sting with a bit of Biologique Recherche P50 now and then Wink. Just make sure to state clearly what your concerns and needs are in as much detail as possible, skincare is highly individual and a random recommendation for a 'good' product will be completely different from one person to the next.

Make sure you've read the earlier threads (or at the very least the first one) so we're not being asked to answer previously raised questions. It takes a lot of time and effort to answer these queries and often the answers can be found in previous threads, but if you still have questions relating specifically to you, use the following form to make life easier on us. We generally answer one a day on a first come first served basis. Not everyone will have answers and sometimes we can't answer you at all. We're only a bunch of amateurs that can respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.

Skin type:

Approx age (range):

Primary skin concern:

Routine :

AM :

PM :

Makeup : eg. no/light coverage/medium coverage/heavy coverage

Occasional treatments:

Things I've tried in the past with disastrous results:

Things that are really working well for me now:

Any dietary/health concerns/pregnant:

What I'm willing to spend on a single skincare item: eg. >£10, £10-20, £20-50, £50-100, no limits.

I specifically [want help with/am looking for a product to/am curious about trying]:


Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

OP posts:
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mintmagnummm · 19/04/2017 09:23

Me again ffs Grin so I'm considering getting the advanced retinoid 2% from to, is it good?? Also do u all still use it in summer time or when abroad?? Help and advice needed pretty please

Ollivander84 · 19/04/2017 10:56

I think the 2% is a good starter one. You need to use it on bare dry skin PM and SPF with it. Personally I wouldn't use it abroad for the sake of a couple of weeks without

botemp · 19/04/2017 12:02

mint, if I don't answer your questions it's usually because I don't want to be complicit in your dysphoria or the spiraling behaviour surrounding it. I've mentioned several times now that it makes me uncomfortable to be suggesting or advising anything to you, especially since you refuse to seek specialist care for your issues that go beyond skin health. I worry that I'm aiding in making both your skin and psychological issues worse by playing any part in it, no matter if I'm trying to be helpful or not. Especially since you disregard advice to not mess with your skin any further and not to subject a permanently compromised skin barrier with any form of actives. I don't want to be engaged in a perpetual cycle of telling you not to use something, you use it anyway, you have a bad reaction and blame the product then look at another product you shouldn't be using for the same reasons but you'll probably do anyway.

Althea, the 'alternate products otherwise it will stop working' is a common myth with absolutely no foundations. Weather, hormones, geography, health, etc. will influence your skin's needs, eg. you're in skin recovery mode currently but will probably want something else once that's done. The Superdrug serum is great for barrier repair as well as hydration but if you have more severe dehydration (as indicated before the incident) you may need something that focuses more heavily on dehydration or layer more steps of hydration in your routine later on. Just check in how you're going with the Superdrug first. By the sound of it, you're already in a better place and can consider introducing it soon.

Wrt Toleriane Dermo, never leave anything with a surfactant on your face. If you do the cotton pad method I always think it's best to follow up with a thermal spray that you spritz liberally that's tissued off. If you're feeling discomfort post cleansing (tightness) then it's definitely crying out for some hydration but a cleanser (no matter how gentle) isn't the substitute for a hydrating toner or serum.

Buttercup, I'm so glad the Avene cleanser has been working for your DD!

Can't remember who was asking about KP again (Lego?) but Avene also do a 10% urea cream that also includes 1.5% Salycilic and 1% Lactic Acid (not a 100% on the latter two percentages). It is MO based but if that isn't an issue it's probably good for those who have the delightful combo of KP and Bacne. It also comes in a more concentrated version of 30% Urea in a smaller tube specifically for rough elbows, knees, etc. It's the Avene Akerat range and especially on the French sites not crazy money.

NotAMammy, please read through the following:

Basics of an Actives Routine

Where to Start

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

I can't give any specific product recs as you haven't really been specific in your form about what you are/have been using so can only point to the regular product recs that are repeated over and over on this thread. As a base line that's the Clinque TTDO balm, LRP Toleriane Dermo Cleanser, Eucerin UltraSensitive for combo/oily skin and LRP Anthelios Fluid SPF50 sunscreen. I'll never rec a moisturiser with SPF in it (ineffective) or a physical exfoliant (more likely to harm you than your skin any good long term).

otyt, you'd probably benefit from using an AHA but since you're still in an establishing a good baseline routine phase you'll have to wait a bit but do let us know if it's getting worse/you suspect it's a product reaction.

I got asked for an ID the other day in the supermarket, only after handing it over did I question the reason why as I wasn't buying anything like alcohol or cigarettes. Woman just shrugged and said she was curious Confused

Yes, Pupsie, SPF definitely on the forefront of my mind. Had a nerve-wracking 24hrs last week as the AB Reddit went a bit postal with news that Japan Post was refusing to ship sunscreens anymore (there have been some issues with customs in the US, Canada, and the UK) but it turned out that policy has been in effect for forever and things are just as they've ever been. On the back of that I stocked up on the SPF I used for summer last year (pricier but it works really well for me and can be used as moisturiser too for me, it's very light and waterproof so happily meets the criteria). I do have a spreadsheet going for all the new releases as they've come out on Ratzilla but haven't checked their ebay/amazon availability and pricing in a while. Also been keeping an eye out for the new releases as they've come up on EPP.

Have also been keeping an eye out for Biore alternatives as I know many of you like it and are worried about the reformulated version. Mostly the Nivea gel comes up, which is cheap and comes in a giant pump but I think the lack of sweat/water resistance and the PA+++ rating make it more suitable for winter than summer. The Shiseido Senka falls into that category for me too, Pupsie, it's not waterproof/resistant.

Dulci, I had read about the red dye (which I feel is a good thing as it will stop people foolishly leaving it on) but figured it may work as a weekly treatment anything to appeal to my laziness, leave it on for maybe 20 mins (maybe 30?) then wash off in the shower. By the sound of it I'd be through an entire bottle after two times though...

Lego, your TO selection sounds sensible. You could also consider in the long term swapping out the Vichy serum with TO Buffet.

OP posts:
BaliBound · 19/04/2017 12:05

What spf do you use mint? I found LRP pilled dreadfully for me, I've switched to Shiseido and I really love it. It doesn't seem to pill with anything.

Pupsiecola · 19/04/2017 12:19

Recent discovery for lots of hair/thick hair prone to dryness/frizz - OGX Kukui Oil shampoo and conditioner. Excellent.

Pupsiecola · 19/04/2017 12:22

Which SPF did you use last year Bo?

Ollivander84 · 19/04/2017 12:34

I'm laughing at curious Botemp! I was buying rhubarb and custard wine. Because it looked interesting Grin

RubyGoat · 19/04/2017 12:57

Fab, thanks - I'd wondered about the Buffet but wasn't sure re: skin type. What's the shelf life on the Buffet - could I order it now to use in a few months? I'm getting an itchy trigger finger & want to order that foundation but I'm not sure of the/my colour. But I'd also really like to have the confidence to go back to not wearing any...argh. It's not a skin issue, BTW. I had to have my hair cut & now I feel that I look like a boy with my very short pixie style.

StainlessSteelButtercup · 19/04/2017 12:59

This reply has been deleted

Message withdrawn at poster's request.

StainlessSteelButtercup · 19/04/2017 13:00

This reply has been deleted

Message withdrawn at poster's request.

botemp · 19/04/2017 14:05

wink wink

I don't think I've been that annoyed with a beauty article in a long while. Sorry, will shut up about other people's grating writing style but do note my response is probably not as accurate as it should be as I can't stand having to read that again. Will point out however there is a bit of misinformation on there (none of it backed up by any science, just the front of 'I'm talking sciency') Niacinamide and AHAs/BHAs can be used together with no issue, in fact many exfoliating toners like P50 have niacinamide in them so if it was truly an issue even at the formulating level those products wouldn't be out there. The Niacinamide + L-AA myth has been largely debunked here but it does stand for TO Vit C 23% and Nia 10% due to how they are formulated and delivered (although I suspect it's the discomforting flush that's being avoided there, not the formation of Niacin). The linked article by kindofstephen also explains in detail about the Hydrolysis of Niacinamide to Nicotonic Acid (aka Niacen) which also discredits the no Niacinamide + Acids claim.

The other claims of Retinol + AHAs/BHAs/Vitamin C is dependent on product strengths and individual sensitivities. I generally advise one (exfoliating/pH dependent) active per routine but some will only see any progress with one or more active in a routine (but it opens you up to serious irritation and overexfoliation), it's not that definitive as that article makes it out to be.

Being asked for an ID isn't much of a boast here, anyone under the age of 25 is asked to ID themselves which is a pretty difficult age to discern for most (I'd definitely struggle). It was a bit of an odd situation since I didn't question the need for the ID until after I realised she had no reason to ask for it and I half suspect the 'curious' answer was a really bad attempt at a cover up for automatically asking.

I use the Kose Sekkisei Excellent Sun Protect Essence Milk SPF50+ PA++++, Pupsie. You can get a smaller version to try first, it does contain silicones, alcohol (in a fair amount but that's usually the case with Japanese SS) and fragrance (Japanese fragrance doesn't usually irritate me but if in doubt opt for something fragrance-free instead). There's also an essence gel version of it (Lisa Eldridge recommends that) but it isn't water/sweat proof, I think that would sort of be like the Biore texturally. INCI wise they are also very different.

How are you with blush and/or kitten flicks, Lego. I didn't go pixie but did go a significant bit shorter a few months back and even though I look quite feminine I never played up those features too much with the longer hair as it felt a bit too much but find a bit of fresh looking bush or a bit of a kitten flick restoring the balance again.

OP posts:
Ollivander84 · 19/04/2017 14:08

I'm going to try the Kose SPF next. Using Biore at the minute and it sits nicely under my makeup - see, I'm being good and using SPF

mintmagnummm · 19/04/2017 15:55

Bo that was slightly harsh. I have had my issues for about 20 years and have had lots of help (cognitive therapy etc) it's not just me being stubborn and not seeking any help, I have tried lots. Yes I do have issues around skin and how I see myself etc but I'm also very aware and also have a background in beauty therapy so do also have some knowledge but I do like to get the opinions of others too.
I have also explained that abusing my skin by using so many things causing hypersensitivity is a past thing not present and I've had a very basic routine for a long time (over a year cleanser, serum, moisturiser) I have since dropped serum without adverse affects as think it may have been breaking me out and I have recently added spf that is it. I did try the regenacalm serum but only used twice (alternate nights) but haven't used any more since as I can tell very quickly if I like something and I wasn't keen. Yes I've been tempted by lots of things but not once have I ordered anything (apart from face theory moisturisers which are not actives and in fact I love) unlike some others who have just gone mad ordering loads of products so surely u should know I'm not being impulsive.
Also I would never hold anyone on here responsible for me not liking a product, at the end of the day it's me who makes the final decision and I would only blame myself.

Thanks olli I'll have a little think and maybe I'll give the 2% a try (it's not expensive so not loosing much if I don't like it) If I do I'll start out very slow.

JDSTER · 19/04/2017 16:17

Interesting chat about SPF. I mentioned a week or two ago that LRP anthelios was terrible for my skin. By lunch time my face was an oil slick. I returned it to Boots and exchanged for the LRP dry touch one so I'm hoping it's an improvement. I'll use on neck and hands if oiliness is still an issue. I've ordered another biore watery essence. I've also stocked up on LRP toleriane fluid while it's still available on line. I'll take a look at the Kose one- is that ok for holiday Bo?

EnidButton · 19/04/2017 16:22

I'm looking for an spf for DH that's ok on sensitive rosacea prone skin. He has very good skin but burns on his high cheekbones and his nose every year. He goes brown very quickly if that makes a difference. Oily and slightly dehydrated. Goes shiny easily.

His current moisturiser contains 15spf.

mintmagnummm · 19/04/2017 17:12

Bali I'm using the lrp spf. It's weird because some days it doesn't pill at all and others it does but only a little bit. Can u link to that shesiedo one please? Does it contain alcohol or fragrance?

AltheaThoon · 19/04/2017 17:42

Thanks again bo. I'll stop leaving the LRP cleanser on from now. Do you have any recommendations for a hydrating toner suitable for sensitive skin? And what's the best SPF?

Apologies for all the questions. I'm nearly 40 yet this is all new to me! (And I'm creating a birthday list based on this thread!)

BaliBound · 19/04/2017 21:07

Yes sorry mint it does have alcohol in it Sad I can't link as I'm on app but I bought it from Amazon. It came from Japan so delivery was slow. Worth the wait for me though. Just a shame it's no good year round.

botemp · 19/04/2017 23:02

Hmm the gel version not so much IIRC, JDSTER, and the milk is possibly more normal-combo suited (though this is a really hard thing to gauge with SS). I think the mil would be ok for holiday but probably not if you're in and out of the ocean Kose does say it's waterproof but it doesn't really feel like it to me, and Ratzilla has it marked as water resistant so it's quite confusing. Japanese sunscreens that are waterproof usually have the word 'perfect' in the name somewhere.

The Biore UV Perfect Milk is probably a better pick for combo-oily skin (no fragrance either but a similar consistency to the Kose, I expect, and it'll give that velvety finish but a more matte one), also much more affordable and generally well liked. Milks are very different to the watery essence formulas though, very light and usually are a mix of (nano) mineral and chemical filters.

I'm thinking the Skin Aqua SaraFit UV Sara-sara Essence may be a good alternative too, it was always a direct (almost indistinguishable) competitor to the Biore Watery Essence minus the fragrance at a similar low price point. They went sweat and sebum resistant last year -so not water resistant at the beach useful but for day to day in Summer ideal.

I do suspect much of the whining around the newer Biore reformulation may be a tad overexaggerated as well and possible it's not as unpleasant as its made out to be as I suspect it hasn't drastically morphed into something unrecognisable.

Mineral SS is usually the best bet with rosacea/sensitive skin, Enid. He can try the Bioderma Photoderm Mineral one, not 100% how this plays with oily skin though. Others I'm thinking of are tinted so don't know how well that would suit, preference and skin tone wise.

Althea, if you're in serious dehydration territory the Hada Labo Gokujyun Premium Hyaluronic Acid Lotion (provided you don't object to parabens) is probably something to look at but since we're not 100% sure what caused your reaction and the suspicion is on the exfoliating acid in the cleanser I'd still wait out the reaction with the Superdrug hydrating serum to rule out it wasn't a reaction to HA.

Unfortunately, I can't answer the 'best' SPF, it's so individual and dependent on your needs. I generally advise having a couple, a cosmetically elegant one for day to day, possibly a more sweat resistant one for summer, a water/sweat proof one for exercising outdoors and/or holiday use. Japanese SPFs offer the most cosmetic elegance, French Pharmacy offer the highest published coverage for broad spectrum. LRP Anthelios Fluid XL SPF50+ and Bioderma Photoderm Ultra Fluid SPF50+ tend to cross the different categories quite well (though from memory they're not 100% waterproof but offer decent sweat and water resistance) but in terms of comfort, the Japanese offerings are often more pleasant but since many contain HA I'd want to rule out that's a safe ingredient for you to use first though. As mentioned above, the hypersensitive often only get on with mineral sunscreens, unfortunately, the choices narrow significantly with those.

Speaking of sunscreens for sensitive skin, saw in the drugstore the other day that Garnier now have a non-comedogenic sensitive line including a top up hydrating spray of SPF50 that looked like the Bioderma one but I couldn't test it out, may very well be like the Anthelios one instead (which I'm not a fan of personally). Also had an interesting SPF30 in an airless pump but I didn't have time to look into it properly and I haven't really been able to find much info on it online, will investigate it sometime soon again.

OP posts:
botemp · 19/04/2017 23:22

Lego, apols, keep meaning to reply and getting distracted by something else. Yes, it would be fine to buy now and use later. Most cosmetics have a shelf life of 2 or 3 years unopened and I think most of TO products have a 12M expiry date once opened.

OP posts:
bananafish81 · 19/04/2017 23:56

@botemp thank you for the TO vitamin C application tips - the three fingers -together - dotting method (patting not running) definitely helps a lot - although I still find it more comfortable once I've slapped on my HA serum as soon as possible after letting the vit C sink in.

Question for ladies who use LRP Toleriane dermo cleanser. I've swapped LE C+P for LRP in the morning, and superdrug vit E cleanser to remove makeup, then LRP for a second cleanse. Both using hot cloth. I'm absolutely loving the superdrug, but weirdly I'm finding the LRP is a bit tingly afterwards. Definitely the LRP and not the superdrug as I get it after the morning cleanse, when I use it on its own.

I find the superdrug much more comfortable to use than the LRP, because of the slight tingling. My skin isn't usually at all sensitive, it's pretty robust - so I can't think it's a reaction to the LRP, given it's the super gentle option. Any thoughts as to why this might be?!

EnidButton · 20/04/2017 01:23

Thank you bo I'll look at the Bioderma one (or get DH too). I don't think he'd want to use a tinted one. He has a gel from the gp that he's using to reduce the rosacea redness. Just two small bits on his cheeks, no spots. But he gets sun damage there easily so he wants to start a proper spf.

EnidButton · 20/04/2017 01:25

bo is it this one? www.boots.com/bioderma-photoderm-max-cream-spf50-40ml-10202373 Brew

mintmagnummm · 20/04/2017 06:41

Banana I can't use the lrp toleriane cleanser either, it irritated my skin and eyes and it always left a slight residue even though I remove thoroughly.

botemp · 20/04/2017 08:13

It's this one www.easyparapharmacie.com/bioderma-photoderm-mineral-spf50-spray-100g.html, Enid. Sorry, the Boots site is terrible to search, no idea if they sell it or not.

Banana, it's always possible to have a reaction to something even if it is considered gentle. I wouldn't really be able to pinpoint what it is but the ingredient list is very short so you could cross reference it with other things that have also caused reaction and those that haven't in an attempt to suss it out.

OP posts: