Skincare Ingredients

[Pupsiecola]

Following on from the skincare routines post, what ingredients do you make sure you include in your products, for example, Vit C, Vit E, Hyaluronic acid?

TIA

The Ordinary was featured by Sali Hughes in the Guardian today. Don't really know how I feel about that as she showcased the easy to understand products (and gave some misinformation about Vit C in the process). I want the line to succeed and make an impact on the way other brands approach skincare (really wish the listing of active % were mandatory and creative maths weren't applied) but fear that a lot of people unwilling to inform themselves about the products will have a bit of a sniff and then find it uninteresting and the hype and therefore potential impact will subside.

Oh yes, we're very friendly and helpful at least I think so on the AB thread and we have plenty of diversions to French Pharmacy chat well Aurora and I do and sometimes I blather on about Scandinavian skincare which looks to be the next 'thing' but I was on it way earlier. I think for most of us though AB is a place to have a bit of fun in skincare, the actives predominantly are western and the core routine is settled but AB opens you up to a whole other world of interesting ingredients and push our routines further. I'll start compiling a few of interest for a separate post.

The water spray stuff isn't really related to skin type, it's part of the cleansing stage and really is just to lessen the impact of tap water (referring to LRP thermal water here, Caudalie and Avene do similar watery products). The LRP Serozinc (I don't use this btw, I do have it in my cupboard but for emergency breakouts) is good against inflammation and for blemishes (as it helps regulate the production of oil). It's an antioxidant which means it helps to fight and prevent the formation of free radicals. Some acne is caused by a deficiency in zinc.

As far as I'm aware you can use Serozinc in several stages of your routine, I use it after cleansing but I believe you can also do it as one of your final steps or over your makeup as a sort of sterilisation (but can't seem to find the info where I read this). It's also mattifying so maybe that's why I'm thinking last step? I do always feel Serozinc needs a few minutes before moving onto the next step.

My research into the ordinary was "Oooh that's cheap" along with "I'm sure I've read about X/Y/Z" < presses order button >
Happily it paid off for me but I did do a tiny bit ( OK 10 minutes reading) of research on top of what I already knew

My research into the Ordinary was even more minimal than either of yours!...I was looking for a new vit c, read about the range on whichever one of the threads you bo and hollin talked about it, checked out their site and ordered within the next 2 minutes....
Although I was already a fledgling skincare nerd and had been reading up on ingredients so I was in the right place for it.
I think it's going to gain a lot of traction, maybe first amongst us nerds...but if it's got staying power it will filter down and maybe more people who ordinarily (see what I did there) wouldn't, will.
Im always up for a bit of French pharmachat if anyone's playing - I regularly lose hours of my life online and in the real life parapharmacies...will be back in France soon and am compiling a list, despite having done some major purchasing in the summer

I know nothing about French stuff so please chat away! I love the Korean beauty, and get a kawaii panda box every so often

Well for starters do as the French and don't buy your stuff in the parapharmacies but online, way cheaper!

I think LRP do some great products but they also have a lot of shit ones, it's a really confusing brand tbh. It'll spout the virtues of paraben and fragrance free in one place and then another product is full of them.

Caudalie and Avene are the other big names but there's so much more out there.

SVR is one that's often overlooked (I assume due to availability).

Nuxe I'm very meh about but some people really like it.

Unfortunately due to fragrance I've never tried anything from Erborian which is a sort of French-Korean hybrid but there's lots I'd love to try from them (their CC cream is supposed to be very good too as well as all the ginseng things).

I like the Klorane oatmeal dry shampoo for the price and it's one of the few that doesn't smell horrific and gas you out of the bathroom.

Bioderma, beyond the micellar never really tried anything else though I have been contemplating a no frills eye cream for day from them recently. Some of the Bioderma sunscreens have really high PPD ratings.

Probably forgetting about loads, which is kind of the issue with French Pharmacy, there's little info and they really don't play the blogger game so there's even less information out there. It seems the higher the price point the even more elusive they become cough... Biologique Recherche... cough. I'm half convinced Institut Esthederm doesn't even want you to know what they're selling. Avibon was a long time cheapo Retinol cream but I think it got taken off the market or replaced. And didn't Elle McPherson use some well renowned butt cream for her face?

Yep I tend to stalk the aisles of geant casino's parapharmacie to compare and contrast between there and something like cocoon centre online to see what's cheapest and where the offers. I do like to look at stuff on the shelf still as I find I can take a lot of info onboard visually then drill down online for the details (and deals).
I've discovered recently that a couple of LRPs products I had found a bit meh, have been repurposed and are working for me better, on closer inspection of their ingredients list and because cocoon centre gives both ingredients lists and descriptions that are more literally translated from the French.
I'm planning to take a look at SVR, they seem to do some good rubialine stuff.
Avibon did go off the shelves and I recently bought it's 'replacement' A313...using it v sparingly, mostly on hyper pigmentation, the odd spot and on less sensitive areas of skin, before I go in on any lines..
Re the butt cream, are you talking about pile cream on eye bags..? Or something else..?
I like the really randomly plain packaged stuff like Ducray and Aderma..also Topicreme...I like the idea that their no frills might be hiding some super ingredients.
Bioderma do a UV spray I want to get, to top up over make up. Though I bought a UV balm twist up stick by them only to be bitterly disappointed by the utter crap plastic tube lid cracking and bits falling off after a few goes.
I also just discovered the Biguine make up line - very nice (not pharmacies but in stocked in monoprix)
Also love Dermaphil - for lip balm and hand cream (they do a nice young hands one)
Uriage I like too.
Sorry not terribly informative there, just an overtired ramble really.

Oh so hollin what is a Kwaii panda box??

Aurora and I both tried the Bioderma water top up UV spray this summer. We both liked it (unless she changed her mind since) it feels slightly powdery but that's actually quite nice in summer. It's not really like a spray but more like a pump with a fine mist, not in place of a proper sunscreen but great as a top up to keep in your bag.

Oh cool, haven't seen many other brands doing it so will give it a whirl.

Link to review here which has website in it too
http://whichbeautyboxuk.com/?p=10451

beauty box but not subscription, you have to buy it when you want it

The Japanese have been doing UV sprays for years but due to shipping restrictions we could never get hold of them here. LRP do a SPF 50 one but that's heavier (only tried it out in store). Just posted on the AB thread about a similar beauty box from Japan with a discount code.

Oh that looks like a good way to dip a toe into AB hollin thanks....adds to ever-growing wish list.
Hmm and Japanese box with discount code you say.....hmmm....tiptoes over to AB thread...

Had serozinc for ages but it got relegated to the back of the shelf for some reason. I'm bringing it back out to try again. Think I just didn't like the feel of residue it left, which is a rubbish reason to reject it, especially as I really like zinc for skin both as a supplement and in products.

I tried that method for getting rid of SFs. Didn't feel any "grits". Used my Emma Hardie cleanser; do you think that's why?

I've just ordered the Mizon snail gel cream to try as my next moisturiser. Well it was reduced on eBay so rude not to really!

Ok so I've ordered a couple of things recommended by Botemp & Nabootique. Including some PC BHA & the Cattier pink clay mask. Is there a specific oil I should use to do the final stage of the SF removal, or will my Superfacialist vitamin C oil cleansing oil work? I have a few pure base oils too, would they be better?

Has anyone had experience of using hemp oil as a facial oil for cleansing, moisturising etc? I used to use it for salad dressing (yum) & apparently it's great for oily skins too, being low comedogenic rating & correct oleic/linoleic balance, but I wanted another POV from a different (more "conventional") perspective IYSWIM. I think the main downsides with it are the smell (nutty, I personally like it) & it goes off very quickly once opened if not kept in the fridge. Any thoughts?

I use the water sprays after cleansing or actives (which I use right after cleansing). I also love the Caudelie Eau de Beaute for traveling or for fixing slightly overdone or over powdered makeup. Just spray and it looks fresh and radiant again and not like you are about to go on stage

And yeah I did enjoy the Bioderma UV spray this summer. Soooo handy as a top up and so easy to carry in your bag!

Ordered from Deciem at last - Vitamin C 23%, Matrixyl and retinol 2% (the last I don't need at the moment, but is was only slightly more than the price of the shipping).
botemp I also read the SH article and agree with you, but Deciem could also do themselves a favor by supplying a bit more info - say different routines for different skin types, problems or ages. But yeah, people should also learn that what feels and/ or looks nice or has been recommended by a magazine or blogger which have been payed to do so is not necessarily going to do what they expect it to do and that spending €€€ on a serum or oil with cheap fillers does not mean that it will benefit you in the long run. One could always relegate those emotions to lovely makeup and lipsticks ;)

I also agree with botemp re what she wrote about AB but will add that for me AB products are also a great way to add moisturising layers (my skin is kind of normal tending to dry in winter) and dabbing into interesting plant/ flower essences. One of the nice things is that many shops and eBay sellers sell samples so it's very easy to try stuff.
Trying the L'Herboflore HA Biocellulose mask at the moment. Best selling mask according to Watsons staff in Taiwan .
Will report in the other thread....

Has anyone tried just washing face with milk? Cheap, gentle and contains lactic acid

I get a delayed grits response, usually the next day or the one after that whilst oil cleansing. Though these days when they're pretty clear I don't feel anything but do see a difference. I think an oil may work better than a balm though but never tried it myself.

The Superfacialist oil should probably work fine though other carrier oils should work too. Never tried Hemp oil myself, and do know it goes rancid quickly but it's non-fragrant so relatively low risk in that sense. You can try buffering it in with your moisturiser at first.

I think Deciem shot themselves in the foot a bit. NIOD is way too complicated to understand, and The Ordinary is pretty difficult to cater a standard routine around when you're disregarding skin types as it targets such individual needs. The Buffet serum seems to be the easy answer but I'm actually kind of doubtful if that is in fact their best performer from the line. I think what Deciem wanted to do with this line was encourage their customers to inform themselves about the ingredients (and then hopefully graduate to NIOD which doesn't get the appreciation they probably feel it deserves) but the low price marketing seems to be winning out. Currently they have two or three guides on the Ordinary products but I think as a complete newb you'd still be hopelessly lost, you need at least some basic understanding of the ingredients. I tend to see the current batch of Ordinary products as boosters to an established routine, not the basis of one, the press and buzz around it would have you believe otherwise. I'm sure they'll survive economically but I'll be very curious to see how they develop this further.

I saw the milk thing on the other thread yesterday and considered it but the thought of getting a bit in my hair and it turning sour put me off. Might try it just before a hair wash.

I ate wheat, cheese and sugar tonight so fully expecting a breakout in the next few days. So waiting to try any new products until a week has passed.

Just reading CH's latest blog post and she says about water sprays making you more dehydrated. I don't get how? It's just water on the surface of the skin. If oils and/or moisturiser are applied afterwards then it's no different to using water to rinse a cleanser off. Don't understand. I know she's dead against water sprays which is fair enough, if ppl don't think they do anything, fine, but surely they can't contribute to dehydration?

CH used to be a huge proponent of water sprays... odd. What argument is she basing that on?

I do question with milk how true it is, raw milk (organic and unpasteurised) I can see having some benefits in terms of nutrients and application to skin, but as an incidental treatment only and even then the % of active ingredients interesting to us won't be high enough to be very effective. It lacks surfactants (as far as I'm aware) so you can't really 'cleanse' with it. It's more of a toner and unless you're using soured milk (which probably isn't the best idea) you're nowhere near a pH that's actually exfoliating. Yoghurt makes more sense as they're in a pH range of 3.0-4.5 and I've used that in homemade masks plenty of times, nothing amazing but works in a pinch and is gentle enough with a bit of honey.

Think the milk thing reminded me of those 'diy face masks' articles on teen magazines in the 90's. Back when an avocado was exotic. Laying down wearing raw egg and honey with cold PG tips bags on the eyes. Very fancy.

No idea what a CH is basing the water spray thing on. I've seen her say to avoid them a couple of times when speaking about dehydrated skin anyway. I can't see how that's possible and it's not true in my case. I don't expect them to add an moisture on their own so maybe she's speaking to those who do. I like them anyway.

I just ended up on a fruit loop of a site that suggests cleansing with milk, using butter to moisturise your face, taking a bath in it, washing your hair with it (condition with ghee), and your cracked heels will magically disappear overnight with a soak in it, skin lightening, and the bogus claims of sun protection . Also, please buy our shitty products to go with your milk.

I hate the internet sometimes, going to put my decidedly not butter moisturiser on tonight with so much more love than usual.

good to go.