Holly, I had a water birth with my first. At hospital though, not at home. I have nothing to compare it too and it was still blooming painful but it all went very calmly and smoothly. As far as these things go it was a positive experience.
The main downside was the water turned into a total blood bath after she popped out (TMI) and I was desperate to get me and her out of it. So had to cut the cord and hand her over almost straight away and didn't get her back for 90 mins while they stitched me up. So didn't really get that 'yeah my baby's arrived' moment. Think I had more gas and air in those 90 mins than the entire birth, just trying to control the overwhelming urge to hold her.
Would do it again, particularly because I really felt the contractions in my lower back and it took all the weight off that area but I don't think it'll be an option in France.
Anyone who can't get enough baby talk at the moment, I recommend a blog called the-mothers.co.uk its fascinating to read other people's experiences