where have bust darts gone?

[TotalOverhaul]

Soon about to go into a work Zoom meeting and noticed my shirt was gaping a bit at the bust. When i tugged at it I realised there was loads of spare fabric, so it wasn't because it was too tight. Then looked and saw no bust dart. the other day I put on and took off yet again a Zara shirt I love and bought earlier this summer thinking I'd wear it all the time. Every time I wear it, it looks shapeless. Checked - no bust darts. So shirts simply don't sit properly across the chest of any woman with more than B cup.

These are not boyfriend style shirts - they are delicate, blouse like designs. So why have they stopped fitting them to women's bodies? Has anyone else noticed this trend?

I've just given up and started making my own clothes. You can put darts in as you like then!

It’s infuriating. I suppose it is a cost issue, they take more time to cut out, and more time to sew. That the woman wearing it looks as if they are dressed in a shopping bag doesn’t seem to matter.

it’s the same with ‘dropped shoulders’ , which seem to mean the sleeve starts anywhere down your arms depending on the width of your shoulder, and just drapes shapelessly across your front. My Gran ( a tailoress) would have described this look as ‘Sloggery’ . But it’s easier than setting a sleeve in.

Same place actual buttons and buttonholes to fasten trousers!

The style is also for a much looser fit. If you see teenagers right now, it's back to the 90s with wide joggers/trousers and either massive t-shirts or tiny crop tops. Blazers were back in fashion again last winter, but oversized not nipped in. Tailoring just isn't having a moment right now in the shops.

That's interesting. I wondered why nothing fitted around my shoulders any more. I hate it. I feel like a bag of spuds in half the clothes I've bought recently.

I'm going to do the same. I've signed up for a dress-making course and I hope by the end of the year I'll be able to make a blouse which fits around the boobs and then shows signs of a waistline too.

It's terrible, started noticing it a few years ago, everything is flat front and back.

I have pretty much given up and try to buy stretchy tops. I'm in the market for jackets and blazers, even good shops have no shape to them.

Same here although I do have one shirt pattern which is quite loose and darkness. I didn't realise bought clothes don't have them.

dart less not darkness.

I guess the small amount of tailoring for darts costs a bit of £ that adds to the garment price, and high street fashion wants costs as low as possible.

Yes clothes are so shapeless currently. Dropped shoulders as standard is annoying as most of the time it's just to cut costs and looks shit.
Don't even mention the utterly shit fabric that bobbles after two wears or looks crap after being washed once.
So much cheap and nasty clothing, and not even just the budget brands.

I hate it too. Same with t shirts. Boxy, just hang off my boobs making me look mumsy. I want to gently show my shape.

Dropped shoulders are incredibly unflattering for anyone whose own shoulders are already wide and square.

I feel the same.

I splashed out on this yesterday, stupid price for essentially a tshirt, but first thing I've tried on for ages that is casual enough to count as a 'smart' tshirt, but doesn't make me look like I'm wearing on of DH's tops!

www.frenchconnection.com/products/pearl-box-pleat-top-mandarin-red

@TotalOverhaul
Check patterns actually have darts before you buy them, as I've read that many of the newer indie patterns ie Tilly and the Buttons don't. I could be wrong as I've never used them.
PS welcome to the wonderful world of dressmaking - clothes that fit and flatter, in colours that suit you!

@3beesinmybonnet Thank you! I'm looking forward to it. Thanks for the pattern tip too. I was thinking of going for some vintage patterns because of the tailoring.

I agree, clothes are cut so badly now and in larger sizes they are worse. A size 16 woman is likely to have a substantial bust. I have had to return clothes (Monsoon for example) that are loose fit, but too tight over the bust whilst excess fabric billows out at the back. Even baggy informal tops and jackets often benefit from a dart or seam.

Also all these lovely utility/chore jackets with no shaping at all, just front and back exactly the same. They only get away with the pictures by using size 8 flat chest models.

I'm also one who's resorted to home dressmaking. I've been on the point of buying some lovely things, then remembered they won't fit even if theoretically in my size. Even if pattern doesn't have shaping you can do a full bust adjustment and put the darts in.

Yes, I've noticed this.

I have a 39" bust and a 28" waist, plus broad shoulders and if i wear dropped shoulder tops with no darts or seams/panelling, I look enormous.

Somebody on the style & beauty board said the other week that they were pleased that M&S had updated their styles and dropped bust darts, as theyre old fashioned. Maybe but if youve got a bust and a waist, their almost essential to avoid the sack of potatoes look.

Fashion at the moment is so depressing. I nearly bought a £150 dress from Hobbs last week until i saw it was made from Polyester.

I don't know if you have Banana Republic available in UK, but they have a tailored shirt. But yes, I agree that tailoring seems to be rare. The loose sloppy look is not for me.
https://bananarepublic.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=836722003&cid=3017013&pcid=3017009&vid=1&nav=meganav%3AWomen%3AWomen%27s%20Clothing%3AShirting#pdp-page-content

It’s all to do with costs. Cheaper to produce clothes that required less sewing or more simple sewing techniques. Also explains the high number of ditsy prints everywhere - no need for pattern matching or even cutting the pieces from the fabric in the same direction, which saved on fabric.

I too have started to make my own clothes. Personally I hate sewing darts! PP who said Tilly’s patterns don’t include darts - that’s not correct, several of them definitely do!

But people don’t want to pay for properly tailored clothes. I’m guessing I could find properly tailored shirts and blouses but they’d probably not look very fashion forward and be quite expensive.

To be fair there are a lot of options between formally tailored Royal Family style, and completely cheap and shapeless.
For instance this dress from Boden. It's not in any way formal, it's a casual fit but because it has a bust dart it actually hangs properly on a woman's figure.

You can add darts - lots of videos on You Tube or any basic dressmaking book from a charity shop should cover how to do it.
While I don't want to discourage anyone from learning to make an entire garment, it can take a long time to learn how to do it well and, in the meantime, altering things you have already is much quicker and easier.

I absolutely hate dropped shoulders. So many nice things I see then I notice the shoulders, so frustrating, as someone with round shoulders and a large bust they just look hideous! Suppose it saves me money though 🤣

I need darts.
In the summer I've worn thin shirts and tied them or worn dresses with a tie belt. I have broad shoulders but a thin waist, so I need things to come inwards... via a boob allowance!
I second making your own. I've recently restarted sewing and dressmaking, and many patterns have a cup size variation option.