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Original poster

where have bust darts gone?

125 replies

TotalOverhaul · 14/09/2023 10:46

Soon about to go into a work Zoom meeting and noticed my shirt was gaping a bit at the bust. When i tugged at it I realised there was loads of spare fabric, so it wasn't because it was too tight. Then looked and saw no bust dart. the other day I put on and took off yet again a Zara shirt I love and bought earlier this summer thinking I'd wear it all the time. Every time I wear it, it looks shapeless. Checked - no bust darts. So shirts simply don't sit properly across the chest of any woman with more than B cup.

These are not boyfriend style shirts - they are delicate, blouse like designs. So why have they stopped fitting them to women's bodies? Has anyone else noticed this trend?

OP posts:
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10
SequentialAnalyst · 17/09/2023 14:03

I hate sewing with a passion and always have.

I was hoping that technology would have made it easier to design clothes for a variety of shapes by now. Like Bravissimo's Curvy, Very Curvy, and Very Very Curvy (can't remember exact names) only much more sophisticated.

I was hoping the age of the internet might see the resurgence of the job of Dressmaker as a cottage industry, so I could buy a few pieces that fit me properly, in fabrics I have chosen myself (and of course fabric does not come cheap). But perhaps the rate such a dressmaker would have to charge for labour to make a living does not make this viable (cf. cake making.)

I also saw an amazing Japanese skirt on Sewing Bee once. You could even get the pattern. I would have paid for someone to make it for me, and still would, now I come to think of it.

Sometimes dry-cleaners have someone who does minor alterations and repairs, but that's not enough.

I also have a fugly tailored suit from the 90s, which I would love to have remodelled. If I could find a tailor (NE England)

Wexone · 17/09/2023 14:14

@knitnerd90 totally agree. it's the drive for cheap clothes and get them out as quickly as possible.
I am ( I know shock horror ) a size 6 to 8 on top have to look presentable for when go into work. there is a polish lady in our local town who has opened up a dress alterations place. she has 6 seamstresses working for her. she is flat out. I am one of her best clients I say. in at least once a month getting stuff altered. between trousers turned up and taken in at waist to shirts having darts put in and an extra button to keep chest part closed. follow.a blogger and she is an advocate for getting yoir clothes tailored to fit you properly..yes it does add extra cost to it but it means you will wear yoru wardrobe more and that's better

Brefugee · 17/09/2023 14:16

it's all about time and materials. Hence many many many cheapo sleeveless tops with no bust darts these days.

LookingGlassMilk · 17/09/2023 14:17

I would love to learn to sew but I just don't have time. I have big boobs and a small waist and most tops make me look huge and tent-like.

I bought these clips which help a bit, you just clip them on to the material at the back and it nips in the waist. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HONGXIN-SHOP-Sweater-Crystal-Cardigan-Connection/dp/B07Q1G553H/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956471&sr=8-5

You can get plainer ones as well and I've read that some people clip them to the inside of the top so that it doesn't show https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lusofie-Vintage-Sweater-Cardigan-Collar/dp/B0B315JT7V/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956521&sr=8-15-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

There are nicer ones on etsy

justasking111 · 17/09/2023 14:27

LookingGlassMilk · 17/09/2023 14:17

I would love to learn to sew but I just don't have time. I have big boobs and a small waist and most tops make me look huge and tent-like.

I bought these clips which help a bit, you just clip them on to the material at the back and it nips in the waist. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HONGXIN-SHOP-Sweater-Crystal-Cardigan-Connection/dp/B07Q1G553H/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956471&sr=8-5

You can get plainer ones as well and I've read that some people clip them to the inside of the top so that it doesn't show https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lusofie-Vintage-Sweater-Cardigan-Collar/dp/B0B315JT7V/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956521&sr=8-15-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

There are nicer ones on etsy

I bought the first ones. They all broke so into the bin 😡

LookingGlassMilk · 17/09/2023 14:35

Mine haven't broken yet. I've only had them a couple of months though.

stickypoint · 17/09/2023 16:51

Yes!! So much, have really struggled buying tops that aren't simple jersey fits with stretch because the lack of darts is infuriating. In particular, generous D cup size with a deep back, big butt and wide hips just makes most tops look terrible on me.

I also took up sewing as a means to combat this but have never been very good at sitting down and finishing pieces....

Fedupwitheveryone · 17/09/2023 16:53

I've found it relatively easy to add bust and waist darts to (cheap) dresses myself. I don't have a sewing machine at the moment (and haven't attempted any clothes making since very basic items when at uni) BUT it's easy to add darts to a cotton dress by hand if it has any waistband seam if fabric is thin:

  • Turn dress inside out,
  • Use pins (even safety pins) to add two darts to front, extending maybe two inches above waistband seam, two inches below Each should sit half way between centre of the waist and edge (so at 1/4 and 3/4 of front, if it were laid flat and 2 dimensional)
  • Pin the same on back
  • Hand sew whilst watching Netflix.
>this works pretty well for any cheap summer dresses and makes them fit waaay better for little cost. It's a useful starting point for those who don't know how to sew properly, as you don't need to take any existing seams apart.

Prints hide dodgy mistakes better ;-)

ps when i gained weight and waist disappeared, i didnt' have to buy new clothes, just unpicked the darts and went back to original style and shape.....

Jacopo · 17/09/2023 17:52

“Hand sew while watching Netflix” - I like your style @Fedupwitheveryone!

continentallentil · 17/09/2023 17:59

MintJulia · 17/09/2023 01:15

Clothes manufacturers are adapting for the fact that a large % of women are overweight or very overweight, and more apple than hourglass.

Most normal tops now, I could have worn at 7 months pregnant. I add a lot of darts myself, vertical from just below the breastline, into the waist and out again, just so things hang better and are less sack-like.

I don’t think that explains it though

I am a (currently) very overweight apple and I still look a lot better with busy darts, and fitted shoulders

continentallentil · 17/09/2023 18:01

Floisme · 16/09/2023 10:00

You can add darts - lots of videos on You Tube or any basic dressmaking book from a charity shop should cover how to do it.
While I don't want to discourage anyone from learning to make an entire garment, it can take a long time to learn how to do it well and, in the meantime, altering things you have already is much quicker and easier.

This is excellent information. It never would have occurred to me.

Divebar2021 · 17/09/2023 19:55

@Winnading

bloody gaping at the bust…. Hate it. It’s often not about clothes being too tight but button holes in the wrong place. They position them above and below the bust and not in the middle where it needs it. I have no idea why. I don’t know if it’s because the initial pattern is based on a B cup. M&S used to have a “ no peek/ peep” 🤔 blouses and shirts that had invisible buttons in addition to the regular ones. They don’t seem to sell them now though.

greengreengrass25 · 17/09/2023 20:06

Think it has been discontinued

Winnading · 17/09/2023 20:09

Divebar2021 · 17/09/2023 19:55

@Winnading

bloody gaping at the bust…. Hate it. It’s often not about clothes being too tight but button holes in the wrong place. They position them above and below the bust and not in the middle where it needs it. I have no idea why. I don’t know if it’s because the initial pattern is based on a B cup. M&S used to have a “ no peek/ peep” 🤔 blouses and shirts that had invisible buttons in addition to the regular ones. They don’t seem to sell them now though.

I think I'll try adding darts to some items. See how well that goes. A pp has said how she does it on dresses. I rarely wear dresses so it's most of my tops. I think YouTube will help.
Hoping darts come back into mainstream soon though cos my sewing is rubbish. Can barely sew a button on, my mother will be turning in her grave about now.

Divebar2021 · 17/09/2023 20:17

They did stop selling them yes but they might be around on selling sites.

VitoCorleoneOfMNMafia · 17/09/2023 20:23

LookingGlassMilk · 17/09/2023 14:17

I would love to learn to sew but I just don't have time. I have big boobs and a small waist and most tops make me look huge and tent-like.

I bought these clips which help a bit, you just clip them on to the material at the back and it nips in the waist. https://www.amazon.co.uk/HONGXIN-SHOP-Sweater-Crystal-Cardigan-Connection/dp/B07Q1G553H/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956471&sr=8-5

You can get plainer ones as well and I've read that some people clip them to the inside of the top so that it doesn't show https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lusofie-Vintage-Sweater-Cardigan-Collar/dp/B0B315JT7V/ref=sr_1_15_sspa?keywords=Sweater+Clips&qid=1694956521&sr=8-15-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

There are nicer ones on etsy

How are clips on the back of your clothes going to be comfortable when sitting in an office chair?

VitoCorleoneOfMNMafia · 17/09/2023 20:26

Divebar2021 · 17/09/2023 19:57

I tried those, still had to size up.

ThewaytoAmarula · 17/09/2023 20:34

I think bust darts are hard to get right for clothing manufacturers. Even when they're there, they are always much too high on me and not big enough. They're meant to point towards the bust apex (nipples, basically) and mine is decidedly less perky than the standard sizing decrees. So I end up with two awkward little pointy bits going towards my armpits, and still get fabric straining over my actual bust.

Long story short, I'm another who is learning to sew (and agree with the shortcut of adding darts and tucks to existing garments).

Ohyeahwaitaminute · 17/09/2023 22:36

@TotalOverhaul

These are definitely a classic take on a ladies shirt, but they come with darts, shaping at the waist and 3% Lycra for stretch.

https://www.schoffelcountry.com/norfolk-shirt-19338#selection.color=11252&selection.size=5483

Im sure I’ve come across more… bear with me!

Ohyeahwaitaminute · 17/09/2023 22:59

@TotalOverhaul

Here we are. Filter needs to be set to ‘cotton stretch’

https://www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk/site/search?q=Cotton%20stretch#?category=832

https://www.hawesandcurtis.co.uk/site/search?q=Cotton%20stretch#?category=832

GrumpyOldCrone · 18/09/2023 07:41

ThewaytoAmarula · 17/09/2023 20:34

I think bust darts are hard to get right for clothing manufacturers. Even when they're there, they are always much too high on me and not big enough. They're meant to point towards the bust apex (nipples, basically) and mine is decidedly less perky than the standard sizing decrees. So I end up with two awkward little pointy bits going towards my armpits, and still get fabric straining over my actual bust.

Long story short, I'm another who is learning to sew (and agree with the shortcut of adding darts and tucks to existing garments).

I’m the same. I have a long torso and a large bust, so darts are always in the wrong place and the whole shirt hangs wrong on me. And the undarted styles do me no favours either. Good quality men’s shirts usually fit me well, but sometimes I want a more feminine style. Learning to sew seems like the way forward.

VitoCorleoneOfMNMafia · 18/09/2023 08:04

ThewaytoAmarula · 17/09/2023 20:34

I think bust darts are hard to get right for clothing manufacturers. Even when they're there, they are always much too high on me and not big enough. They're meant to point towards the bust apex (nipples, basically) and mine is decidedly less perky than the standard sizing decrees. So I end up with two awkward little pointy bits going towards my armpits, and still get fabric straining over my actual bust.

Long story short, I'm another who is learning to sew (and agree with the shortcut of adding darts and tucks to existing garments).

The bigger your bust, the lower the nipples are relative to the top of the shirt because the fabric has to go out away from your ribs as well as down. It's trigonometry.

justasking111 · 18/09/2023 08:34

Divebar2021 · 17/09/2023 19:55

@Winnading

bloody gaping at the bust…. Hate it. It’s often not about clothes being too tight but button holes in the wrong place. They position them above and below the bust and not in the middle where it needs it. I have no idea why. I don’t know if it’s because the initial pattern is based on a B cup. M&S used to have a “ no peek/ peep” 🤔 blouses and shirts that had invisible buttons in addition to the regular ones. They don’t seem to sell them now though.

Gaping, sew in a popper. It's invisible and works well

"Hemline H420.99 Nickel Brass Rust Proof Sew On Snap Fasteners 6,7,9,11mm 20 Set : Amazon.co.uk: Home & Kitchen" https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hemline-H420-99-Nickel-Brass-Fasteners/dp/B003X2K6ZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=snap+fasteners&qid=1695022385&sr=8-4

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