where have bust darts gone?

[TotalOverhaul]

Soon about to go into a work Zoom meeting and noticed my shirt was gaping a bit at the bust. When i tugged at it I realised there was loads of spare fabric, so it wasn't because it was too tight. Then looked and saw no bust dart. the other day I put on and took off yet again a Zara shirt I love and bought earlier this summer thinking I'd wear it all the time. Every time I wear it, it looks shapeless. Checked - no bust darts. So shirts simply don't sit properly across the chest of any woman with more than B cup.

These are not boyfriend style shirts - they are delicate, blouse like designs. So why have they stopped fitting them to women's bodies? Has anyone else noticed this trend?

I endorse the suggestions here to learn dressmaking and make your own clothes. I've been doing this for years and really don't buy much ready made any more. Some patterns even offer options for different cup sizes - wonderful!

A few years ago I did a sewing class at college because I had ambitions to sew my own wardrobe. We had to prepare our own block first and I have to say it took us the whole term to get even a toile sewn. ( there was a lot of maths involved) Using a bought pattern is obviously easier but I wouldn’t know how to adjust to get a good fit. I had a really whizzy seamstress ( who actually makes costumes for the theatre ) and I would take something that didn’t fit me and I would want one area changing but she would actually adjust it in a different area to the one I imagined. Very skilled. So although I’d like to have a go at sewing again and have a sewing machine I’m probably going to wait for retirement.
(There are a lot of sewing influencers out there are social media who I enjoy watching though ( and up cyclers)

I think a lot depends on what you are making @Divebar2021 , you wouldn't need the level of skill described here to make simple garments from a pattern. Many patterns are very good at explaining where adjustments should be made (though pattern brands vary on how detailed their instructions are).

I have been sewing for 20 years and have never made a toile - I am too lazy. I know I am an amateur so keep within my expertise level when choosing patterns. I just make simple adjustments where they are needed, it is really easy to do.

I'm going to be the miserable git who keeps on repeating that it's not an easy skill and that it takes time to learn. I'm trying to teach myself how to draft my own pattern blocks at the moment and it's a total head fuck.

Not saying it because I want to put anyone off but because if you don't know that from the start, you can quickly get discouraged and give up.

I think starting small (and bust darts might be a good place) is the way forward. I still alter more clothes than I make from scratch (I buy a lot of second hand / vintage) and, if I don't think I'm capable of doing a good job myself, I pay someone else to do it for me.

It's given me a whole new level of respect for anyone involved in making clothes, be it as a hobby or professionally.

Not true, as if you're more apple shaped, that often means you don't have a particularly large bust compared to waist - current styles mean to allow for the wider waist measurement, you're left with great swathes of fabric and empty space from the collarbone to ribs, whereas a tailored fit would mean that it sits properly from the shoulders down.

Plus we don't carry the weight on our backs, yet the amount of fabric at the back and the front is the same on these garments. Result: parachute at the back, gaping buttons on the front, and the side seams getting dragged forwards.

I came on to say exactly this!!

I’m going to be the miserable git who agrees with you! I learned to sew at school and from my mum, literally every type of seam, fitting, finishing and fastening, because you need to know how to do it properly before you can do the short cuts. I stopped watching Sewing Bee years ago as there are very few contestants with technical skills, and the few there have been get disqualified early for not finishing garments in time, because IT TAKES TIME TO DO THINGS PROPERLY, but that doesn’t make good tv!

Dressmaking is a wonderful skill to learn, and if you learn the basics, you’ll be set for life

I completely agree that 'it's not an easy skill and that it takes time to learn', though you only learn by doing. Not everything needs advanced fitting techniques; let's face it, we buy garments in standard sizes which aren't personally fitted to the individual. A dress pattern in the right size should ensure at least as good a fit as this, and many patterns are adapted to amateur sewers.

In my case I started off by making gathered skirts which are basically just cylinders of fabric, only the waistband needs fitting. Adjustments on charity shop garments is also a good way to go as the garments should be cheap so it doesn't matter so much if things go wrong. However I just refuse to buy and then spend time and take risks adapting new garments, most have minimal seam allowances.

I am though inspired to take my sewing skills to the next level and perhaps look again at toiles, creating blocks and proper fitting. So thank you for this.

An example of the kind of thing I do - I create 'dickeys' which give the look of a shirt collar under sweaters/jackets etc and enable me to vary my looks. They don't require fitting and don't have the bulk of a shirt under layers - great for the large busted.

I can run one of these up in a day & everyone thinks I own lots of shirts.

https://www.minerva.com/mp/1265264/simplicity-sewing-pattern-9448

Oh yes, I forgot about the tenting at the back. Who has a spine curvature of absolutely zero?

Where were they from? I'd love to find something like that. (The darted cotton lycra shirts.)

You've reminded me, DH once brought me back a white Banana Republic blouse from USA. It was so beautifully fitted. I wore it until it fell apart. years ago, now. Will look them up online.

Very true, the parachute analogy is a good one.
Basically this boils down to lazy/absent tailoring that we are forced to address ourselves. 🙄

Fascinating thread! I make a lot of my own clothes (with darts). I have a "standard" template dress where I can amend the design details to produce variations on a theme. I worked out my standard pattern from taking bits and pieces from commercial patterns (and even taking apart existing garments!). But what I have is elegant, fitted and comfortable and can be adapted when my weight fluctuates.

I definitely would recommend doing sewing classes if you have any interest in sewing for yourself. Rose and Hubble, for example, do a wide range of beautiful pure cotton fabrics from £6 a metre so you can make beautiful clothes (polyester free) and save a fortune.

It's a bit of a niche style but every single dress and blouse on Palava has bust darts. Many of them also have waist darts running up from the waist, some have front and back waist darts.

Palava

I used to sew a lot (taught by my granny who was a tailoress when I was a small girl)! I made lots of clothes for me and fancy dress costumes for DD. Recently retired I have bought a new machine and set up a sewing room to start again. Buying clothes is a nightmare when you’re short but have disproportionately long legs and short body with DD bust and size 9 hips!

This thread tells me why I stopped buying anything button fronted. I hated the gaping and everything gaped on me, even if I bought a size up.

I had no idea about darts, but I'm now thinking I will learn more about it and alter stuff. Frankly even if I get it terribly wrong, it wont matter as I dont wear the things anyway. So no loss except my time.

It is such a shame that Bravissimo stopped doing clothing :-(

My Schoffel shirt has bust darts (had to check!)

I sewed press studs on a dress and it kept coming undone on the bust bit

I used to sew but it's the fitting that's difficult for me

back to the 50s

Back in the day I had lots of shoulder pads, different sizes, thicknesses. Read last week in an article about an Alexander McQueen designer that the princess of Wales insists on shoulder padding in her outfits.