Les Parisiennes des Mamanset: A Sin of Pride

[botemp]

Lovers of Parisian style and fashion with a conscious mindset and lots of chatter in between.

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Favoured Parisian addresses:

Second Hand Shops

Outlets

Favoured London addresses:

Charity Shops, Dress Agencies, and Outlets

Favoured NYC addresses:

[[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FdQbdNEUpGqOyH2oqBQZBVsKISieRgxW_F67mgRLSrw/edit?usp=sharing Consignment shops, Vintage, an
d Restaurants]]

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Previous thread

That's a very astute question bo. The short answer is, 'More than I think' but I'll try and tackle it.

It's worth bearing in mind that most of my finds are straightforward purchases that don't require anything more than a machine wash and, occasionally a spray with white vinegar and an airing outside. They're the workhorse items, like the Uniqlo merino jumper I found last week or the silk shirt with an unfashionable label. Half the time I don't even mention them because they're not really that interesting.

I talk more about the purchases that are exciting but need a bit of 'aftercare'. If say I've found a wool/tweed jacket or coat and paid £20-£25 (which is more than I used to pay), I'll probably need to spend another £10-£15 getting it cleaned. Increasingly I can do my own alterations but I've learned the hard way that I'm not good enough to alter tailored shoulders so, if that's needed, it could end up costing another £20, bringing the total to £50-£60.

And then there are the duds, which are harder to quantify because of course you don't know at the time that it's a dud. I think I said that at the end of last year, I redonated about a dozen things that I'd bought over the preceding 12-18 months. That was quite sobering as it meant I'd bought a dud about every 6-8 weeks. Most had cost under a tenner but that still meant I'd pissed away £100-£120 in about 18 months. I've been much more careful this year (I hope)!

I've also learnt to avoid going on charity shop 'hauls' as you can definitely get a high from them - well at least I do - and that's when you can kiss your judgement goodbye. So these days, unless I'm away on a trip and can't go back there, I try and stop once I've made that first purchase.

I sometimes wonder what kind of wardrobe I'd have ended up with if I hadn't fallen into these habits all those years ago. I'd have probably spent the same total amount as I tend to spend most of my 'me-money' on clothes. Who knows, I might be sitting on a small, carefully curated and very expensive capsule wardrobe

Oooh-er Poppy.... those are very lovely dainty Derbies. I love patent shoes --still crying over the death of some (currently very on trend) grey patent Pancaldi court shoes that I bought in the much-lamented Henri Bendel.

Back from France empty-handed, except for foods: 5kg of Breton red onions and shallots. It was all marinieres, and I don't need any.

Those are some lovely shoes poppy.

V&A meet up nearly upon us - I got
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Flo completely agree about the duds - and my success rate is far lower than yours. I chalk it up as a charitable donation and either pass the pieces on to friends and family or donate them to a different charity shop. I’m on holiday at the moment and have just given a Whistles cow print dress to one of my friends (it was £20 BNWT, and such gorgeous colours and fabric I couldn’t resist even though I looked like a pregnant cow in it) and an unworn New & Lingwood nightshirt to the other friend (I can’t remember but probably cost around £5, such a beautiful colour and fabric that I couldn’t resist even though it was the size of a tent). From time to time I too think ruefully of what an amazing capsule wardrobe I could have if I only bought very few, very considered, brand-new items. Unfortunately I love the randomness of treasure hunting. And I remember that it is uncanny how I’ve always been drawn to the one piece in a fashion spread that is “stylist’s own”. Without exception and it’s so infuriating! So I am lured back in…

There’s definitely a PhD waiting, or possibly already written, on the demographics of charity shop wardrobe building! During the times I’ve lived in Cambridge, London, Oxford, Bath, for instance, I’ve haunted charity shops and vintage markets - and I remember feeling particularly well dressed, regardless of whether I was poor beyond poor, or somewhat buoyant. Over the years I’ve been on MN I’ve often felt regretful at not being able to join in the charity shop chat - purely because I wouldn’t step into any in my current locality if you gave me a billion pounds.

Anyway - having learnt yet again yesterday that I Must Not Post Photos Of Outfits I Like on any other MN thread, I bring you a Wow, and a How …

The Wow.

A Sarah Burton swan song. Here’s a link but I can’t isolate this article so you’ll get a load of other stuff too.

https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/taylor-russell-alexander-mcqueen-sarah-burton-hood-dress-1998

The How.

My question is, how does one get into this jacket? Does it go over your head? (I would be a mess by the time that was accomplished.) Or do you wriggle it up from your feet and poke your arms downwards into the sleeves? Or is there a secret zip at the back?

(It’s rather splendid, to my eyes, and possibly also suitable for a wedding. Maybe I’ll suggest that elsewhere …)

The Meghan dress must have a zip under that ‘collar’ at the back and that collar is possibly not joined at the back? The photos do not show the back so that is what I am imagining.
I do like the I Am Sitting Naked Under My Bedsheets type aesthetic.
the Sarah Burton look does nothing to me.

I do not mind that you didn’t isolate those two articles!
I kept looking and love the suede caramel trench in there ….

Yes, I'd assume a zipper at the back. I'm not sold on it either, it either needs more structure in the foldover or it needs to be slinkier, as it is, it makes her look really gaunt. Or maybe she's on ozempic like the rest of Hollywood 🤷

I don't read W Magazine all that much, when did it get so snarky and gossipy? The whole Victoria Beckham fashion timeline seems really off. Like they purposefully picked the most unflattering pics available.

Flo thanks for the thoughts on it. The thing with the prolific charity shopping that I always find a bit jarring is that for quite a few it just seems to be about the thrill of the buy and possessing things, the haul mentality definitely taps into that. I know that's not all charity shoppers but it seems to be a large faction and when combined with the virtue signalling and sneering at those who shop 'fast fashion' it does feel off. I don't know exactly how charity shop businesses work in the UK but I vaguely recall that there's so many of them because of a tax incentive (I assume for the landlords) and that most run at a loss or just about even thanks to volunteers, so it really isn't all that virtuous as it's made out to be.

Has the popularity of Vinted affected the charity shops?

There's a fringed dress in the Chanel exhibition (or is it a big photo in Justine Picardie's book?) that could have been the template for that Sarah Burton dress. I think it dated from when she (Chanel) was involved with the Duke of Westminster and I can just picture her realising she was going to need some posh dresses and running something up for the weekend. The jacket, I agree, has got to have a secret zip, either that or Meghan's been sewn into it by fairies.

I'm sure Vinted has affected charity shops bo, just as Ebay did at first, but even if that wasn't happening, the Sheins and the Pretty Little Things would still be slowly taking over the rails. I can't imagine what they're going to be like in ten years time. All kinds of hauls make me a bit uneasy really. You can definitely get a high from it and when you throw in the 'saving the planet' virtue factor, it all adds up to quite a heady brew. But then again, when you do find something genuinely good, it's the best feeling.

And as for Desmond going all the way to France and coming back with 5kilos of onions.....

Charity shops are exempt from business rates in the UK, but the landlord/owner of an empty shop would have to pay them after about 6 months. That's why there are so many, and usually there will only be one paid member of staff... hence the proliferation.

And it wasn't just 5 kg of onions, flo, there was also 5kg of shallots, and two grappes of garlic, plus 3 dozen oysters, some Reine-Claude plums, a packet of crepes, and two bags of craquant for making posh desserts. As well as all the wine for Christmas. The ferry stops at the end of October half term until Easter.

Ooh... and an artichoke for today's lunch!

Excited at the prospect of the return of Phoebe. I have to admit, despite her departure, I remain enamoured with Celine bags. Not the logo-ed ones, but I do like the In a similar vein the Toteme appeals. I haven’t seen either in real life. I suspect the Celine could be tricky to get into and out of.

That coat is fabulous botemp, how lovely to have the skills to make one of a kind pieces that you can wear knowing you won’t see anyone else wearing anything remotely similar. I’ve seen bits and pieces of Sacai in our department store. If I’m there and see something I can try on and see how the sizing runs.

While I am pleased to see a fellow Dub at the helm of McQueen, and one who was at Dries during my favourite years (notwithstanding this year’s offering actually), it’s a shame that we have another white man in the CD role at a Kering brand.

I like the Bootz. I have a similar pair in black and have work them absolutely loads. Did you get them in the end?

I’m not sure it gets much better than a 17 pound MH coat.

Can someone point me to the influencer thread please?

I like Meaghan’s top when seated. I think she looks beautiful, but full length it’s less successful, she seems to really struggle with outfit proportions. I wonder would a narrower trouser have worked better overall? I think the folded over bit looks to have a bit of stretch, but still think it would need a zip at the back.

I'm really jealous of your department store, Elle, ours stocks so very little (although Poppy was really complimentary about it when she was here iirc, so maybe it's a grass is always greener thing).

I've seen the Toteme bag in black, it's very nice to look at but a bit awkward to wear. The Celine one reminds me too much of the early 00s Fendi baguette bag era. There's quite a similar one at Loewe (hammock hobo iirc) which looks really basic in pictures but on the right person (the proportions have to work for you) and in an interesting colour it's a real beauty.

The new designer at Chloé looks promising by the way, she originally started there working under Phoebe Philo and then worked in lots of places where I've had cherished pieces from (the workhorse types mostly) and it's nice to see it's another appointment of someone whose steadily built a career in fashion rather than some megastar appointment. Her bio says she's German but her last name suggests Iranian (or she married an Iranian potentially) so that'll be interesting to see as Chloé has always had this boho eastern influence to a degree.

Influencer thread here btw, although it's not really about influencers, but please come back and tell me about your 'space' 😂

What a gallic feast Desmond, good to know you travelled by car. Next time grab some crepe dentelles. Are the strict food restrictions only on the way into the EU not back into the UK?

Yes I am most excited about Chemena’s appointment. The prospect of real boho and eastern give me a wide grin and cannot wait.
I hope it lives or surpasses my imagination.

Bringing food back from the EU in your own car does not seem to be a problem here bo. We were asked to open the car boot and bonnet leaving France, to make sure we didn't have human cargo, but no one asked what what we were bringing back. The Surete grinned from ear to ear when I pointed out the veg and oysters and wished us bonne appetite!

Oh desmond that sounds like the trip I should be making, why I never done it by car …

Oh dear - you’ll think I’ve morphed into a raging royalist (haven’t) but this article on the Queen of Denmark’s side hustle is so fascinating. Decoupage and leg of mutton sleeves!

New York Times

No judgement from me CrkdLttrCrkdLttr , I've been known to lurk on the royal style thread in spare moments. I know nothing about the Queen of Denmark but she sounds quite a character, echoes of Princess Margaret perhaps except it sounds like she has some actual creative talent (sorry Margaret Rose). That red trouser suit (I cannot bring myself to call it a 'pantsuit') she's wearing towards the foot of the page looks splendid.

F-ing nepo babies taking all the good jobs <angry fist at the sky> 😉

Margarathe is a bit of a bad ass, a chain smoking bad ass, I'm amazed they've managed to find pics of her not smoking. She's delightfully louche somehow.

The show sounds good too, I'm a sucker for anything starring Borgen's Statsminister, Sidse Babett Knudsen. Although the previous period piece with her was a bit of a wash.

I loved Sidse Babett Knudsen‘s reduction of the Queen to nice shoes, nice jewels, smoking …

Yes, bo, crepes dentelles too! We always go to NW Europe by car because the roll-on roll-off ferry is closer than any airport.

Shh, don't admit you have any Desmond, they are like the crack cocaine of biscuits, you'll have junkies on your doorstep before you know it. Although, knowing their addictiveness, you've probably eaten them all already 🤔

Yes, afaik, Margarethe is sort of loved as a sort of national badly behaved gran. I think the Euro royals tend to be a little less stiff and less wedded to protocol than their British counterparts. Although being a personable public person comes with its challenges too. Where's Bani, she's more familiar with the Scandi royals than I am?

I'm just impressed you managed to get them back in one piece. They always end up in smithereens for me. I used to get amazing chocolate covered ones that came in purple packaging, maybe not for the purists, but I loved them.

Just nipping on to thank people for the scarf suggestions from a week or two ago - I've been in contact with Jacqmar as there's one I fancy but I'd like it in a different colourway. Apparently they're planning to make it in the exact colour combination I'd prefer soon 🤞🏻

I hope you all have a great time at the V&A. I've been recovering from Covid - it finally got me! But I'm clear now & heading to London tomorrow so I'll be visiting the exhibition myself at the start of next week.