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🐌 Fantastic Skincare: Hot Snails, Summer in the City - Now with added shelf porn!

999 replies

botemp · 07/08/2017 19:14

Thread 1 Thread 2 Thread 3 Thread 4 Thread 5 Thread 6 Thread 7 Thread 8

I am very slowly working on consolidating the gathered information from previous threads into easier to read formats but it’s slow going. In order to make use of the below form and join in I would suggest reading thread 1 and at the very least the following info sheets (provided they apply to you):

Where to Start

Basics of an Actives Routine

Skin Types vs. Skin Conditions Info Sheet

Anti-Ageing Info sheet

Adult Acne Info Sheet

NEW ADDITIONS since last thread:

Do I Really Need to Wear Sunscreen Every Single Day of the Year?

Understanding Which Sunscreen(s) to Buy

For those who are taking a peek and wondering what this all about, we mostly discuss a bit of advanced skincare here with a perspective of seeking out the right ingredients (rather than the latest new shiny product and all its empty promises) for our particular skin needs. Distinguishing the acid toners from the actives whilst avoiding the truly unimpressive and harmful ingredients with a hope to achieve a bit of anti-ageing, alleviate irritation and sensitivities with some idle chat in between. Newcomers are always welcome but please note the following:

Questions and asking for help on this thread is encouraged, however, we can’t give you a specific routine to follow and hope it works out for the best. There are no overnight miracles in skincare whether it be in the form of products or techniques. It’s about perseverance, understanding your skin, assessing its needs and responding to that in a diligent manner.

These threads were created to help those who want to learn for themselves. We’re a group of interested and invested skincare nuts happy to offer tea and sympathy and dole out advice. Everyone’s journey with skincare is different, what is universal and binds us is that through actually learning about the different active ingredients it helps us get to know our skin and help us adapt as it will change many times throughout our lives - with seasons, hormonal changes, ageing, genetics etc. It's in everyone's best interests to get to know their skin and to keep reviewing those changes with the confidence that comes from the gathered knowledge here. We really encourage you to spend the time reading through previous threads and linked info sheets that the many contributors have taken the trouble to share.

By no means are we experts, we're only a bunch of amateurs that can only respond by suggesting what we would do in your place, for any severe conditions please seek out professional help.


If you pose a question and we need more contextual information to answer properly we may ask you to fill in the following form. Please only use this form when asked, unsolicited forms will be deleted. Responses to the form can be found here


Ahem, and finally a little note on spending. I'm well aware these threads cause many to reach for their wallets and spend with wild abandon. There can sometimes be a bit of a frenzy surrounding the excitement around a newly discovered product or on the back of great improvements when someone reports back. This is all great, it doesn't however, mean everything that's a sudden miracle for one will be it for you. Usually, it's a light bulb moment for connecting the right skincare ingredient with an individual experiencing a specific problem. Take your time to mull over decisions and question whether it's right for you too. Skincare is highly individual, it's a slow game that should cost mostly in patience, input, education, and perseverance. Please don't make it cost you financially needlessly.

AUGUST 2017: Sunscreen is pretty much non-negotiable at the moment (not that it’s ever not Wink), RL bumps have been met in the road for some, unfortunately. Grief sucks but we do our best to offer a bit of comfort even if it is just something as inane as skincare chat Smile. Some of us are lucky enough to be nerding out in French pharmacies whilst pretending to do that holiday thing, the Shelf Porn Off is still on…

I can't believe we're on thread 9 Shock

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Tsmummy08 · 05/09/2017 09:09

For those interested in a diet detour, I'm off to see a talk at the British Science Festival in Brighton today: Sugar is the new fat. Panel discussion with some academics and "the angry chef", and another at the end of the week on "Why we eat what we eat".

Pupsiecola · 05/09/2017 10:38

After a couple of hours of research/considering other options I have ordered the CE-Theone. Very spendy, but I'm very curious to try something other than TO Vit C.

EnidButton · 05/09/2017 16:03

Ooh that sounds really interesting TS.

miffy2 · 05/09/2017 18:12

Pupsiecola I too am intrigued by CE Thione. Let us know how you get on.

botemp · 05/09/2017 18:48

Didn't India Knight rave about that night cream some time ago? Think I looked it up then, mostly lots of heavy emollients and Niacinamide high up in the INCI. Basically nice if you're dry and/or mature but nothing miraculous in there.

Bagel your username always makes me want to go eat one, don't think I've had one in years, Dimethicone sort of falls into the same periphery as Mineral Oil. Nothing wrong with it, safe to use, non-irritating, non-comedogenic, etc. (exceptions always exist of course) but it does act like an occlusive (though it is somewhat permeable, more so than MO) so if you're reacting to something in the formula Dimethicone or MO can make the reaction worse as it has nowhere to go. The other issue with it is that it sits on the skin, it's not absorbed (which has environmental implications too as you're washing it off) and some speculate that since it holds active ingredients in suspension it then cannot reach down properly, there's plenty of studies that say the opposite though so it's not really definitive. I mostly avoid it because I'm not too thrilled about the feel of some (there's different grades and qualities so it's hard to discern but some definitely have a 'presence') but also if you layer up skincare and there's silicones in different products you get that balling up effect. I tend to only really allow for it in the last steps of my routine, so sunscreen and moisturiser.

I've also wanted to try the Dr. Jart Ceramidin Cream for ages, possibly the Liquid may be better for my skin type and it's not too crazy expensive if you order from Korea. It has fragrance in it though, so I've been put off by that, how strong do you reckon it is Tsmummy08?

Speaking of smell, Eau d'Arse doesn't smell like anything to me Confused. I only sniffed at the dropper suspiciously so far, maybe it's like an evil sneak attack that reveals itself once you slap it on your skin Shock

user, yeah there is a truth to that, though I think it's more fillers than Botox that make for that gentrified face. Lip fillers have the same issue, on most, they sort of look ok, or almost natural I should say, but in profile, it looks drastically out of proportion and not how natural big lips protrude from the face at all. I do have to say I'm always a bit surprised when people so in the public end up looking like that, everyone who uses fillers/Botox all swear up and down to get the best money can buy, that you want it subtle, for a well rested look, you want someone who studied the face and its underlying structure, etc. etc. but I'm pretty sure Courtney Cox wasn't visiting Bob the Dentist's garage on the odd Sunday.

Aren't those tape pieces what drag queens use to give them more feminine contours or alternatively, look like they've been through a wind tunnel?

Tsmummy08, that festival sounds really interesting, I'll have a nose if there's a live stream or similar available. I still need to order Angry Chef's book, apparently, there was a tv show or documentary over the summer too, have to see if I can still watch it back somewhere.

Very curious to hear how the CE Thione pans out for you, Pupsie. I like that they put it in two little bottles but IIRC you have to finish them within a certain timeframe.

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BagelGoesWalking · 05/09/2017 19:13

Thank you so much, Botemp. I've started noticing it on ingredients lists (which I never used to look at!) as someone mentioned it but didn't know how bad it was supposed to be. God, it's bloody complicated!

Dr Jart's Ceramidin was also mentioned on some post or YouTube (Gothamista maybe?) and it looks like something that could be beneficial to my skin type. It's a bit pricy (I'm not used to spending £££ on skincare) so I'll wait as I just had to buy LRP Eye Contour for seriously flaky eye irritation from some allergy or another and I got the Cicaplast Baume as well as I'd heard such good things about it.

Thanks again for the info 👍 I love reading all the posts here. It's fascinating Grin

Tsmummy08 · 05/09/2017 19:13

Bob the Dentist's garage on the odd Sunday OMG I LOLd.... no, they bloody don't go to places like that, but I wonder whether these slebs live in some kind of weird bubble where everyone looks the same? Or do they trust their Drs and end up looking like that (Kylie was oddly puffy too)?

The discussion was interesting but not "meaty" enough for me (excuse the pun). My background is nutrition so I found it pretty basic and the main thrust of the session was that sugar is not evil per se, and that our diets should focus on enjoyment as well as intake of individual dietary components. I would've like to have heard more exploration of the differences between sucrose and fructose but it was fun too - The Angry Chef did a demo on the culinary properties of sugar, which I think added to the discussion - i.e sugar has quite useful properties in cooking... On the upside, I had a good chat with one of the presenters :)

The talk on Friday is more related to my research and I'm hoping I can find some juicy bits (sorry/not sorry!) to follow up on....

BagelGoesWalking · 05/09/2017 19:14

Oh, and I haven't had a bagel for about 2 years either!

Tsmummy08 · 05/09/2017 19:15

Bo Yes Ceremidin is quite highly fragranced but it doesn't bother me, (I loved Elemis Marine Cream) - can do a decant if you'd like?

botemp · 05/09/2017 19:54

I'd eat a bagel but there just aren't any nice ones, just bready things with holes in it that taste nothing like a bagel. I've attempted making them myself a few times (I'm a pretty decent baker if I do say so myself) but it's nothing like the ones you get in New York. I'm having massive urges lately to go to New York for reasons I do not know. I shall blame Pupsie's DH for now for being there when I'm not.

The Ceramidin liquid seems better value for money as it's the same price of the cream and 3x as much. The scent is also supposed to be lighter. I thought it was a light moisturiser at first but it's more of a serum. The liquid is very popular on the AB Reddit (where users tend to be younger), I think the cream is more popular with older/drier skin. Will contemplate further, thanks for the decant offer Ts but I think the liquid would be a better fit for me. I have seen Dr. Jart pop up in TkMaxx quite often, the V7 line and masks mostly but the prices feel a bit of a rip off if you're familiar with the Korean prices.

I am curious what the next diet thing will be Tsmummy08, the super clean eating brigade seems to really have simmered down, there's the weird fad diet of the moment nuts that will always exist in some form but there does seem to be a bit of a vacuum. I do remember vaguely (don't know if it was early 00's or later/earlier) where Nigella and Jamie really came to rise with their hedonistic pleasure-inducing cooking, until that went a bit overboard. I wonder if we're cycling back to that with all the emphasis now on a healthy relationship to food and that all the former 'bad' food groups are presented with a bit more nuance these days. Added to that, it feels like we're slowly becoming aware that whilst we don't all have an eating disorder, many of us (myself included, but at least I'm aware) are disordered eaters and have been for a very long time.

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EnidButton · 05/09/2017 20:01

Hadn't realised drag queens use tape. Makes sense. As contouring came from them, I wonder if in 15-20 years time, when the contoured 19 year old Instagrammers start to age, taping your face up will become the next big thing. 👽

EnidButton · 05/09/2017 20:06

Sounds like a good afternoon TS, even if it wasn't very in depth. I think we'll be going towards simplifying food unless that's already happened? I have noticed a few cookbooks coming out that are all about using few ingredients and down to earth, wholesome, ingredients. Jamie O has one out now where every recipe only needs 5 things. Although he's cheated a bit as some of them are things like "chilli sauce" or whatever. I liked the look of it though.

botemp · 05/09/2017 20:22

I think the tape is even called something like face lift tape, it looks weird, like a little tab you'd use in an office. It has a little hole at the end where an elastic is placed to pull it all tight. I do wonder when we're going to get drag queen beauty salons already, OTT in all its glory, think there's plenty of women who would like a version for that for a night out or similar I mean any MAC I pass by is a hive of activity.

We've had the simple approach to food for a bit though, haven't we? The farm to table ethos where you get the highest possible quality ingredients and then try not to mess with them too much. Think that's been about for a bit alongside its counter movement of those, mostly American, high caloric super gourmet version of children's food and snacks.

I read this piece in The Atlantic the other day about how nutrition studies get 'translated' into media that's a really interesting read. There's also a little titbit from the study that is discussed that is actually newsworthy about raw vegetable consumption being more favourable healthwise than cooked. Didn't give much further information there but it has peaked my curiosity, I usually try to do a raw salad type thing and a cooked vegetable with dinner but less so in winter. I was also under the impression that for certain foods, like tomatoes though that's a fruit technically, there was a benefit to cooking them.

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Pupsiecola · 05/09/2017 20:26

Lol bo. DH goes to NYC quite often and I've not once been. I have a big birthday in the Autumn of 2019 and he knows that's how I'd like to celebrate. My bday is a couple of weeks before half term but I reckon a week at the end of October would be peachy.

I see everyone having buddha bowls at the moment. I can't be arsed with overly pretty food tbh.

botemp · 05/09/2017 20:35

October sounds perfect, that or April/May are the perfect NY visiting times IMHO.

I can't be arsed with overly pretty food either (when it's tasty it looks good anyway, no need to turn it into a mandala), or people constantly taking pictures of their food in restaurants (and I assume at home) for the Gram, instead of you know... eating it Confused

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Pupsiecola · 05/09/2017 21:49

Doesn't tomato consumption help you with sun protection, skin-wise? They're not wise if you have rosacea so I tend to steer clear, ironically.

Tantpoke · 05/09/2017 22:34

Instead of tape you can just go retro with the croydon face lift Wink

I'm being brave and going in for the 5% Lactic acid for the first time, having woken up this morning with signs of autumnal skin which for me means action stations, well it meant getting out the azelaic acid this am and now lactic (couldn't face Liquid Gold)

Tantpoke · 05/09/2017 22:39

The Lactic acid has quite a pungent smell and I've just worked out it smells like the sweet sherry I use in my Chinese stir fry's Hmm

miffy2 · 05/09/2017 22:56

Tsmummy can you tell me where you bought Ceramidin cream? Thanks!

EnidButton · 05/09/2017 23:22

Grin at Croydon facelift.

Pupsie We went to NYC in mid October (couple of years ago). Weather wise it was very mild. Like a warm spring day is here (northern England). Autumn's my favourite time of year for trips to places for some reason.

mintmagnummm · 06/09/2017 08:57

I need a good undereye concealer and one for spots, any recs?? Anyone tried the bye bye under eye by it cosmetics? Or any others that I can buy more easily??

botemp · 06/09/2017 09:07

Pupsie, anything high in antioxidants is supposedly good for your skin in terms of sun protection, so I guess that may be the reasoning? What is it exactly in tomatoes that's not good for rosacea, seems to be a bit of a red theme going on with rosacea triggering foods.

Pungent, Tant? I think downright nasty is more accurate. Though I had the 10%, thankfully I only used it on the body, it was gag worthy.

Does it need to be silicone free mint? The Kiko full coverage one is nice for both and cheap enough to get in two different colours, pretty sure it's fragrance free but not sure on the silicones.

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mintmagnummm · 06/09/2017 10:28

Bo no I don't think silicones are a problem in concealer...I hope! Could u link to it for me please?? Would this be ok for eyes and spots??

botemp · 06/09/2017 10:44

I hope this works out with the regional settings:

www.kikocosmetics.com/en-gb/make-up/face/concealers/Full-Coverage-Concealer-01/p-KM0010200900144

I have it in 3 and 4. Which is darker than I'd expected to need. 4 is a bit darker/peachier so camouflages any darkness, 3 is slightly lighter than my skin tone so does that illuminating thing. Then I mix a bit of both if I need my exact skin colour. Basically I hacked my own Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage set but with an easier to use formula. It's quite full coverage but not heavy and creamy at all, the warmth of your skin makes it really easy to pat in.

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yongnian · 06/09/2017 13:07

My smelly sheep's ass arrived yesterday- no smell!!! Grin mixed it this am with TO Vit C 23. I noticed yesterday in good light that I actually have a brown patch on my upper lip which is usually not very visible, so am trying it here as well to see if I can bring it down.
Interested in talk of Dr Jart Ceramidin, been thinking of trying that...
KIKO concealer looks good.

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