@GayParee , no offence meant but you sound to be a bit of a product hoarder. We’ve all been in that place, more product than problems and none of them seem to really be solving the actual problem so the natural inclination is an endless search for more product and somewhere along the way you’ve lost track of what is actually doing something and the whole vicious cycle starts all over again.
Your skin actually sounds a like mine did when I first encountered major issues with it but mine had a hormonal undercurrent to it, so if anything else (beyond the stress of having a DC in hospital and all that entails) seems off health wise, I think it’s always sensible to have bloodwork done.
Aurora has already helped you on the way and I agree the high MO and other potentially irritating ingredients in the products that should really be ditched since you’re currently in a problematic phase where little seems to be helping.
I’m having a hard time determining your skin type too, especially since dehydrated skin can sometimes present as combination skin but you also definitely sound dry but don’t tolerate the traditional dry skin remedies well. I think we can sort of suspect that we’re dealing with a compromised skin barrier (the cause of the dehydration) what the cause of that is may be a bit of a mystery (though it might be overexfoliation as a result of a high glycolic routine) and you probably are ‘normal’ that veers towards combo and dry according to weather. I sort of have to assume the hormonal spots are unrelated to that and part of a hormonal cycle where the compromised skin barrier exacerbates it and slows down the natural healing process.
I think we can safely say you’re massively dehydrated and although the Superdrug Serum is decent it’s not the ultimate in hydration (it is high in ceramides which help with barrier restoration so I would keep it in the routine for those purposes, just not rely on it for hydration). I would be inclined to use either the EL ANR instead or in conjunction of that in the AM. Despite its name it is a hydrating serum at the end of the day so there’s no reason it has to be used in the PM. Unless the EL does something amazingly different for you in comparison to other tried HA serums/toners replace with something from Deciem or Japan once finished.
I’m not a massive fan of Pixi or the Nip + Fab pads due to some common irritants in both, but mostly because they seem to make compromised skin worse progressively. I’ve also just noticed the Olay serum is glycolic based, I think you’re overdoing it in the glycolic department. If despite using these you’re still dealing with flaking and dryness they’re just not working for you as they’re designed to address exactly these issues. With the cystic outbreaks in mind and your more recent comment about it appearing like you have sunburn on your cheeks (pigmentation, just wondering if it’s red or the more traditional light tan/brownish colour, if red- we have to question the possibility of rosacea too) I think you’d see a bit more benefit from a BHA, Niacinamide, and Vitamin C. BHA and Niacinamide will also help with inflammation and soothing sensitivity which will aid in barrier repair. By addressing the barrier repair you’ll also be addressing the dehydration issue. It’s more sensible to then look into AHA at a later stage and getting a well formulated less irritating version like P50 that is more about addressing skin balance rather than hardcore exfoliation.
Aurora and I tend to agree on a lot so this will most likely be a repeat but for phase 1 consider it a bit like a diet. Paring things back to the essential while you slowly build up to (thin) layers of product to help regain a bit of skin health with each progression and avoiding setbacks by taking it slow.
Phase 1:
AM
Caudalie Cleansing Milk ← Ideally I’d see you use the LRP Toleriane Dermo Cleanser instead (and suggest you buy once this is finished) since it’s less likely to irritate but I don’t want to mess around with too many product changes all at once and always feel it’s sensible to use up what you can. Rejected face cleansers make for great handwashes though
Serum - Superdrug Serum and/or EL ANR
Moisturiser - LRP Toleriane Fluide (if it’s still available otherwise ask for alternatives here)
SPF - FT Shiseido SENKA Mineral Water UV Essence SPF50+ PA++++ ← The Biore may be too alcoholic for you which isn’t ideal with dehydrated skin, the LRP is an alternative but I think texturally this would be preferential for you. Do note this isn’t sweat and sebum resistant so good for this time of year but not so much in high spring/summer.
PM
BS CB + Cleansing Milk
Paula’s Choice BHA 2% Perfecting Liquid ← Use 2-3x a week and start building up use 1-2x a week and use in oily prone areas only (U- and or T-zones) and possibly the cheek area if that is indeed inflamed. Also get the travel size, you don’t need a lot and sometimes a different version from their line up works better.
Redermic R on nights you’re not using BHA, 2-3x a week, follow with a moisturiser though- the stand alone use advice for Retinoids only pertains to the prescription variety. EL ANR on the remaining nights and if dehydration is massive on top of the Redermic on those nights too (so basically use every night in that case).
Moisturiser - Face Theory Relaxing Night Cream M10 (unscented version) or if it feels enough the Moisturiser from the AM (possibly with a drop or two of facial oil mixed in).
Phase 2:
Introduce TO Niacinamide 10% in the PM
Introduce TO Buffet in place of EL ANR in AM/PM
Possibly look into an overnight sleeping pack for added hydration to layer before or after moisturiser. The Naruko Magnolia Gelly would be a nice one for you to look at.
Phase 3:
Introduce TO Vit C 23% in the AM (after cleansing before HA serum)
Explore options for AHA like P50(W initially)
*Didn't link a thing, so if anything is linked, it's a skimlink.