Stitch and bitch thread #10. There’s a pattern here

[NutellaEllaElla]

Time for a new thread as the weather starts to turn.
Welcome back oldies and come on in newbies!

@Brefugee
@PickAChew
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@Bookbook
@Allthegoodnamestakken
@SewingBees
@Twobluechickens
@kittykarate
@Jins
@Chewbecca
@CrimsonAlligator
@InMySpareTime
@MeAgainAndAgain
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@Rosenspants
@OperationalSupport
@Twobluechickens
@Frumpyunicorn
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@Isabelle70
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@123ZYX
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@Isabelle70
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@Tinuviel
@Karatema
@Nameohnameohname
@Outandabout43
@Thesugarbumfairy
@DuchessNope
@ShoAndSew
@Notthatcatagain
@Spaceman101
@Karatema
@Twwodoorsaway

Ellie and Mac has a dog hoodie in the weekly sale here if anyone is interested

Would it be a crazy idea to get a dog, just so I can make a dog coat?! 😂

I finished my Archer shirt, using some of my best Abakhan finds to date (2 meters of brushed cotton for £8, buttons 4p each!). It makes me realise just how much money I’ve wasted in more expensive places…I’ll probably continue to do so, but can’t deny that it’s much more exciting when you make a good find like this 😊

I love that @CrimsonAlligator and it's just the sort of thing I'd wear. Brushed cotton can be a bit of a crap shoot because some of it is quite loosely woven and can end up a thready distorted mess or pill before you even get to wash it for the first time.

That looks wonderful @CrimsonAlligator

Would you mind telling me what pattern you used?

I know exactly what you mean PickAChew. I attempted a brushed cotton shirt a few years ago with fabric that almost looked felted. Every time I tried to undo some of the stitches, I’d end up ripping holes in it, no matter how careful I was. Needless to say, that shirt was never finished. It actually put me off making “proper shirts” for a while and almost stopped me from sewing anything altogether. It was that bad! I’ll never buy brushed cotton again, unless I can see it in person.

@IDareSay, the pattern I used is the Grainline Archer shirt. I altered the shape from the very straight original to something a little bit more a-line, as that suits my body shape better & made a few other more minor design changes. Because it’s a simple shape, it’s a really nice pattern to experiment with. I’m already planning my next one, for which I’ll shorten the pattern, add a split hem and change the cuffs. That’s the plan anyway.

Obviously, it’s also nice sewn up as the designer intended!

Love the shirt @CrimsonAlligator

Fabulous work @CrimsonAlligator ! That looks totes profesh, as I believe the young people say.

a suit for sure

are you going? i was there for a week once for work but no chance of getting anything made, unfortunately

Good evening, fellow seamstresses!

Seeking your wisdom on 2 things:

I am finishing off a lovely wool jacket using a Ralph Lauren Vogue pattern I've made a few times (for sale on Etsy at a whopping £38 - I could pay off my mortgage by selling all my "vintage" Vogue patterns, clearly, 😀!)
Vogue Pattern

I've made it a few times and it's really easy to wear, and always get compliments (win, win). But I'm still - after 40 years of sewing - bad at topstitching. Any hot tips about making my top stitching look professional? I'm going to do this on the machine, so not that hand finished look. I'm tempted not to top stitch this version, as the wool is quite soft and irons up beautifully, so I've got nice crisp collar and jacket front lines. But I think top-stitching will just hold everything together. Any tips & hints received with thanks.

Also, has anyone done any of the couture sewing courses that are run by the "School of Sewing" studio in Ashby-de-la-Zouche? There's a trousers tailoring course there next year that I'm tempted to do, but it would mean 3 days off work. Is the teaching and work of the teacher really good? I'm mostly self-taught, but reading pattern instructions and sewing books, but the thought of getting perfectly fitted trousers is a dream.

Otherwise any other good courses for a fairly advanced home sewer that you would recommend? west of the country is better than the east coast.

TIA and

@YellowAsteroid how are you doing your topstitching? Are you using any special feet?

I’ve not done in person courses, but did do an online class by Alison Smith, which was excellent. I’m nowhere near as experienced as you though, so am perhaps a bit easier to impress! Nevertheless, Alison really seemed to know her stuff. She’s just published a book on tailoring and previously wrote the DK books on sewing and dressmaking, so I think you’ll be in safe hands if you decide to go for the class.

Lovely jacket @YellowAsteroid .

I love a nice bit of top stitching, but I don't know anything about technique, I just line up with whichever part of the foot / needle plate that's the right distance, and hope for the best.

I am planning a trip yes. Definitely going to get something made but I have no use for a suit. It’s fun to think about though!

For topstitching, increase your stitch length a notch if it's a thicker fabric, use a reference mark on a foot (I liked my pfaff 1/4" foot for that but most feet have little landmarks of some sort) and take it slow and steady. If your machine has stitch down, that can be useful. I pretty much handcrank or foot tap around sharp curves and at corners.

If you're following and invisible line eg a deep hem or a facing then you can thread trace with long running stitches about 1mm from where you want your stitch line to be to make sure you catch it all in and don't wobble.

It's something I find very meditative.

(what's "stitch down"?)

If your machine is computerised, you can often set it to finish with the needle in the fabric so you can adjust without ruining your line - I should have said "needle down" but hadn't had my coffee yet ☕

ah ok thanks, yes, mine does that. It is a Wonder Of Modern Sewing Machines that i really really appreciate.

I thought I'd ask because while I've been sewing for the best part of 50 years, i am mostly self-taught so don't know all the terminology.

I love the needle/ stitch down function. I get irrationally annoyed with my machine when it doesn’t finish with the needle down, even though it’s entirely my fault when that happens 😂

I find the 1/4 inch foot invaluable for top stitching. I’ve also been known to use masking tape on the needle plate of my machine to mark other widths, as and when required. It’s just a lot more visible than the lines on the plate.

i go through a lot of washi tape when i want to do top stitching or make wider seams or whatever.

But i also use it to make note of what type of needle i have in the machine, and when i put it in. (am ridiculously proud of myself for that one)

One of the things that annoyed me about my pfaff was the default needle up and the fact that if I selected needle down, it would use an extra stitch to get there. Infuriating and another reason I was glad to get back to janome.

I should really get around to. Sorting out my smaller janome to sell. I would get rid of the pfaff in a heartbeat but I don't think it's fair to palm it off on someone else because it's not in great condition.

That is such a great idea as I am rubbish at remembering when I change needles!

My new machine has a patchwork stitch which is basically just a short straight stitch to use with the HP foot. I can safely say it's a pig to unpick.

And now that I've safely said that, I've hopefully knocked the 3 year old thread that got spammed safely down my threads I'm on list.

while we're on about patchwork etc - i've been doing a bit of quilting (very small scale - cushion covers mostly, and a mat for my sewing machine)

I'm curious what a quilting needle (machine) does that a universal needle doesn't. Anyone know?

Difference between quilting and universal needles here. https://suzyquilts.com/5-minute-guide-to-sewing-needles/#:~:text=Quilting%20Sewing%20Machine%20Needles,can%20avoid%20dreaded%20skipped%20stitches! (I like Suzy quilts, she's always informative.)

I have to say that I use Janome purple top for everything, piecing and quilting, and it's always been fine, I use 50wt for both. But plenty of people use a heavier thread for quilting because they like the look, so I guess quilting needles would make a difference in that case.

This should help you. I use universal needles for very little. Mostly just loose cottons and linen.
For piecing I use a microtex needle and quilting (I'm only an occasional quilter, too) a quilting or jeans needle.
https://www.schmetzneedles.com/pages/sewing-machine-needle-chart?srsltid=AfmBOopxUws7Kcs-4hmEpoCteYUH0RxwLrcatfQLGXa_-yqeBOYwDN6m

Regarding Alison Smith, I haven't done a course in person despite living quite close, but I have used a lot of her video tutorials and she is a great teacher.

For topstitching I use heavy thread, a topstitch needle and a patchwork foot so I can see the stitch line and edge accurately. I made a coat last winter that involved a lot of it.