Stitch and bitch thread #10. There’s a pattern here

[NutellaEllaElla]

Time for a new thread as the weather starts to turn.
Welcome back oldies and come on in newbies!

@Brefugee
@PickAChew
@BlackAmericanoNoSugar
@Bookbook
@Allthegoodnamestakken
@SewingBees
@Twobluechickens
@kittykarate
@Jins
@Chewbecca
@CrimsonAlligator
@InMySpareTime
@MeAgainAndAgain
@RemusLupinsBiggestGroupie
@Rosenspants
@OperationalSupport
@Twobluechickens
@Frumpyunicorn
@Hiddendoor
@PrincessofWells
@Isabelle70
@Daffyyellow
@Sewliketosew
@Lifesingflowers
@123ZYX
@Faffadoodledo
@MorriganManor
@GnomeDePlume
@Isabelle70
@DiggoryVenn
@Wilma55
@ZebraD
@Frankincenseandoranges
@Catnipcupcakes
@Tinuviel
@Karatema
@Nameohnameohname
@Outandabout43
@Thesugarbumfairy
@DuchessNope
@ShoAndSew
@Notthatcatagain
@Spaceman101
@Karatema
@Twwodoorsaway

Of course, the best alteration method depends on your shape. Good luck 👍🏻

Rather you than me, @Jins !

@jins I’ve been looking at cutting the shortie legs off my wetsuit because they cut right across my thighs and are really uncomfortable. I’ve been a bit scared of doing it but you’ve inspired me!

@twobluechickens finishing the legs will be straightforward as well. Good luck!

Thanks @PickAChew and @CrimsonAlligator I will have a look at both of those methods. I think I should be able to work it out, with a fair wind!

Hi everyone
I haven't had much time for sewing lately but finally finished my style arc belle dress and was really pleased with the results. I am planning a skirt and a wrap dress before Christmas.

Despite deciding to concentrate on quilting because a) I like it better and b) I have enough summer dresses and not enough summer, I have bought myself a gorgeous dress pattern. I am a total sucker for pin tucks but have never sewn them so it will be interesting. It's the Garden Dress from Frux Studio. https://fruxstudio.com/collections/wear I'm thinking I'll do the sleeveless version with a v-neck. I don't have the arms for sleeveless but a little cardigan or crocheted top will work with it.

Ooh, lots of lovely pintucks!

I'm more than a little in love with this fruit https://fruxstudio.com/collections/fruit-patterns

That’s lovely@BlackAmericanoNoSugar! I’ve just bought the Maison Fauve Chelsea Blouse, which also uses pintucks, but on a smaller scale. I’ve never sewn pintucks before either. I anticipate that my perfectionist tendencies will take over and that I’ll end up spending hours lining things up. Hopefully it will be worth it.

That fruit looks amazing @PickAChew!

Love the fruit! Also love the dress. I absolutely love pintucks.

I’ve finished the wetsuit alterations bar a bit of tidying up. I ended up binding the armholes with some scuba Lycra I bought for joggers as the machine wouldn’t handle 4 layers of neoprene. Personally I’d have made the arm band 90% of the length but he wanted 1:1 as he didn’t want it any tighter for kayaking. The perfectionist in me is wincing though

I would add that if you cut your paper pattern at the point you require to add more length, you don't need to atach more paper - just space the two patterns pieces out on the fabric, pin, and use tailor's chalk to trace your cutting line.

I used to faff with sellotaping an extra but of tissue paper to my pattern, but found it damaged the pattern tissue, and wasn't really needed.

I’m completely stuck. I’m sewing my first lined jacket. I’ve made the jacket before, but it’s my first time with the lining. I’m completely stuck on the step in the photo - attaching the jacket lapel to the lining bodice. Can anyone explain it better or direct me to a video?

Right sides together.

If you look at a lined jacket you'll see that the lapel part which turns over to be the part of the lapel which shows, has the lining attached.

Personally, I prefer to make up the jacket completely, without the lining, to just before the finishing stage. Then I make up the lining completely (although proper tailoring/couture you hand sew the sleeves after making up the body of the jacket & lining).

Then I do one big seam from bottom right side of the jacket lapel to bottom left (or t'other way round) and then press the seams out, then press them to get a good sharp line on the front of the jacket and the lower lapels. Steam, and press, and steam and shape the jacket from there.

Rather than what your pattern seems to be telling you to do: which is to attach lining to lapels, and then sew the fashion fabric front piece to the lapel piece together, with lining already attached.

Pattern pieces adjusted for the I Am Patterns Sunshine trousers. I’ve increased the fly depth by 2” following reviews where people said the fly was too short and it looked weird. I’ll cut it out tomorrow and then that’s a nice project to work on over the next week or so.

Oh and I had to increase the inseam by 6” (I usually only need to add 2”)! Can only assume French women are tres petite.

Thank you so much. You gave me the confidence to get stuck in!

Oh good! The thing is, you can always unpick. I always press out seams and check everything is OK before I trim or grade seam allowances.

They wouldn't be much too long for me, then. I often have to lop 6" off legs 😂

I may have added too much (they are supposed to be ankle grazers) but we’ll see!

I AM PATTERNS draft for a height of 5’5”, which is not unusually short for a sewing patterns I don’t think?! Having said that, I have patterns where I’ve needed to add 6+ inches as well, so I feel your pain!

@twobluechickens you don’t happen to have the Closet Core Pietra in your collection do you? My enthusiasm for the Mitchell trousers is already making my head spin, so I’ve started looking for my next trouser pattern (I’ve only sewn the straps so far, but that won’t stop me making plans 😂) Just wondering if you know how the Mitchell and the Pietra compare?

I’m 5’10 with long legs so that’s probably why!

I haven’t tried the Pietras but I have made their Morgan jeans, which I don’t love, but I think that’s because they’re for rigid denim and I prefer stretch. I’d definitely recommend the M&M Quinns, they were a really enjoyable make.

@YellowAsteroid That’s such a cool but obvious tip, how did I never think of that! Thanks.
So last night I had a Black Friday spree on Minerva (never shopped with them before) and got 20% off by signing up to their membership, have already got 3/4 of the fee back :-) I have some end of line viscose jersey coming to try the Juno PJs with, never sewed with that before.
Plus…after watching a few bloggers while I’ve been off sick, I have decided to try a coat 😳and ordered the Style Arc Petra and some warm quilted fabric. Probably the fever….

I'm 5'4 with short legs (and arms).

I don't have the Mitchell as those pleats aren't for me, no matter how lovely they look on others but I'm wearing these not particularly photogenic cord pietra pants right now. Comfy and the flat front is flattering and they're a really enjoyable make. My only advice would be that if you make them with a loose weave, reinforce the seam between the front and the facing with twill tape

Glad it helps @ChoccyJules

I’ll be interested to hear about the quality and value of buying through Minerva. I tend to think these small sellers charge a lot for stuff that one can buy better quality elsewhere. I’m constantly tempted by Croft Mills, who I think give the best quality and value. I’m currently wearing a navy blue skirt I made from some beautiful to wear will I bought from them - and then bought more! It’s a very fine weave with 2% spandex so while it handles as wool does, it’s quite forgiving in terms of fit. And a very good price - under £15 pm. I’ve made trousers and I have a gorgeous 90s Donna Karan jacket inline for the next thing to make from the fabric.

@YellowAsteroid I thought Minerva were one of the bigger sellers?