Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

I have downloaded a Cris Wood dress pattern called Parasol, it's a low-waste one where you measure out and cut rectangular pieces of fabric and there is no paper pattern at all. I think that method might suit my quilter skills better. The fit is deliberately very roomy so hopefully that will suit my weird rounded shoulders better. I have some very pretty floral lightweight fabric that I'm hoping to have enough of to make it a bit longer into a proper maxi dress. https://criswoodsews.com/products/parasol-dress-and-top

@FletchingStraight I definitely wouldn't recommend the Jalie Renee for your dressmaking class, they are more like ambitious leggings than trousers to be honest, and can only be made in something stretchy/good recovery like scuba or ponte roma. Massively quick make though, I started tracing the pattern at lunchtime, finished and hemmed trousers by 4pm

I haven't made any 'proper' trousers ever! Most of the ones I've made have been wide leg, and with a partially or wholly elasticated waist. If you fancy making something like that, I really like the Made by Rae - Rose.

Thanks @kittykarate I'm definitely not up to standard for them! I always feel swamped in a wide leg trouser, although have t tried one on in a long time so may have to go try on a couple in an actual shop...Although can see they'd be an easier make.

I like the slouchy look of these in the white jersey (??) as I don't wear smart trousers thefoldline.com/product/the-makers-atelier-wide-legged-trouser/
At worst I'd wear them as lounge wear I guess.

@FletchingStraight have a look at Sinclair Poppy Pants

Straightforward to sew, easy to fit. They are my go to nowadays.

I like the poppy pants jins. I didn't get any sewing done this weekend and was very disappointed as I was going to visit a machine shop to buy a new sewing machine but it was closed, so I consoled myself by buying a top pattern (remy raglan) and some fabric to make it.

Thanks for all the advice on the seams for the york pinafore, I think I am going to bind them.

@FletchingStraight if you’re after more tailored trousers, the Simplicity Amazing Fit range may be worth having a look at. I found the trouser in this range much easier to fit than other patterns I tried. Every pattern in the range gives three options (slim, average and curvy fit) which takes a lot of the guess work out of the whole process. I made the 8056, but think there are a few other trouser patterns in the series as well.

https://www.minerva.com/mp/1013181/simplicity-sewing-pattern-8056

I love that fabric @BlackAmericanoNoSugar . So pretty!

Finished my Burda V-necked top over the weekend. I loved the fabric, but I don't think it really suits me. However, it is such a comfortable top.

I've also cut the fabric for the LB Pullover.

Sorry, I have no recommendations for trousers as even after 10+ years sewing, they really scare me!

@FletchingStraight - these are made with a stretch material . I made them for my daughter , and they worked up very well ( I had to alter for her rise , and so move the pockets a bit ,) but they are smart https://www.ellieandmac.com/products/paperbag-pants-pattern-adult?_pos=2&_sid=8f19fec41&_ss=r

I have not been making clothes atm , but doing things to sell for a charity craft sale , so doing little bags , craft rolls , and tried out making a holder for interchangeable knitting needles that I am quite chuffed at ( spent ages working out what I would like it to do /look like , and went from there )

If I make trousers they're usually either jeans or Style Arc Bobs. I made the Tessuti Laura trousers and they have a nice slimline look, but I found them too low at the back - if I make them again I'll need to make them much higher, or maybe I didn't tighten the elastic enough. Builder's bum is undignified to say the least.

I’ve tried my joke Xmas present today and I shouldn’t have laughed. It’s a game changer.

DH picked it up after noticing that I didn’t have one 🤣. It’s a seam guide that holds fabric in place and it’s making my slippy viscose handle like cotton poplin.

Box just says magnetic seam guide but it’s the best I’ve had

that looks like it could free up a few fingers - with fabrics like that, I often find that it's the sheer number of things to pay attention to at once that prevent sewing it from being the meditative process that I would like it to be.

@Jins I got one of those at Christmas too, but I’m sure I read online not to use them with a computerised machine so I’ve been too scared to give it a go.

@SBAM my machine is computerised. The only thing I’d say is that it needs to be set well in front of the presser foot to give enough clearance. I’m glad I didn’t read anything to say not to use it. It’s possibly the magnet? It’s very strong

@twobluechickens I love the look of the Laura trousers, but agree with the ol' bottom cleavage not being a desirable look on me!

@bookbook those trouser look great apart from the waist - I don't suit a paper bag. Well I'm pretty certain I don't anyway.

@CrimsonAlligator thank you, too smart for me I am at home all day so usually live in jeans but do like a dress to switch things up. Trying to diversify into trousers!

@Jins you could be the winner! Those hitting the right part of the leg & in a nice fabric could very well be the ones! I have a top to make first with them so I'll talk to the instructor. Choosing fabric is another mission all together as I don't have many local options & it's so hard to gauge thickness, softness & drape online. I may return with more questions....

@FletchingStraight the good thing about Sinclair patterns is that they have different height variations as well as sizes. They are the only pair of trousers I’ve made that I haven’t had to tweak. I’ve made them in various fabrics from lightweight polycotton, through suiting to some heavyweight non stretch knit and they’ve all worked well. The pattern recommends lightweight fabrics but the only area that becomes too bulky in heavier weight fabrics is the front waistband and I’ve overcome that issue by cutting the reverse of the waistband in sheeting and omitting interfacing.

Another favourite trouser pattern of mine is Love Notions Allegro bottoms but they don’t have a flat front and are slightly more casual. I’ve made these in linen and some insanely thick double knit that broke numerous needles

@Jins being 5'3" height options are music to my ears!

I came across this chart which shows what height different pattern companies draft for. I found it really useful for working out what changes I’m likely to need to make and which companies to avoid as their block is just too far removed from my body shape

https://csews.com/sewing-tips/sewing-pattern-height

Lots of scrolling will get you to the table at the end!

My party dress is finished! Newlook N6658 in viscose from Abakhan. It’s so swishy. Finishes a bit above knee at the front and lower at the sides but it’s intended to be worn with black opaque tights and my trusty DMs.

That's brilliant Jins!

@Jins and @SBAM that looks like a gadget not to be missed, can you provide a link/more details?

There are several on Amazon @MontyDonsBlueScarf. Here’s the first one I clicked on

Magnetic Seam Guide for Sewing Machine,Quilting Accessories,Multifucntional Fabric Fixed Guides Presser Tools,Pressure Spacing Cutting Dressmaking Gauge Tracking Tool,Haberdashery Sew Rail Gadgets https://amzn.eu/d/8EaSqta

DH will have bought from eBay - it’s where he does all his shopping 🤣

Looks great @Jins
Infind the height drafted for a bit hit and miss. Itch to Stitch claim to draft for 5'6 but I end up having to take more length off the sleeves than usual and also take lots of length off the body when, if anything, I'm often more likely to add length - I'm 5'4 and rather short limbed.

Nice work @Jins !

I'm on the leg bit of my latest pair of Ash jeans. I'm not entirely sure how, but I managed to sew the zip fly a little too far over, so when I did the bar tack on the front, it's not through all layers, it's off to the side a bit. I've left it as is because undoing everything would probably bugger up the fabric but I'm worried it'll be a weak spot.

It's really annoying because I've taken real care with the top stitching on this pair. Oh well.

Maybe a bit of invisible hand stitching from the back, @twobluechickens