Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

I love that cat fabric! I absolutely don’t need any more fabric but that is really tempting 😬

@Jins how about doing a bit of genuine tie dying? Start with a piece of plain white or silver grey and then go from there.

Finished another Cashmerette honeybourne dress yesterday for DD2. This is the 6th one I have made for her. I have also made it twice for DD1. I do like getting the wear out of a pattern!

@Frumpyunicorn Thinking of toiles, I do find them useful where fine fitting is required. I buy unbleached calico for this purpose. The remnants make good bag linings. If you are going to be making a wearable toile and are using calico then do wash it first as it does shrink.

Calico does dye nicely. I dyed some a dark forest green colour for Christmas cushion backs and tge calico came out with a very satisfying marbling effect.

I want to shout it from the roof tops. I have finally nailed invisible zips! I found a 4 minute youtube video which explained the process really well. I also discovered double sided sewing tape. I find this holds the zip in place more precisely than my pinning does.

@NutellaEllaElla cushion covers? I recently made a load of cushion covers for our sitting room using remnants from curtain making for the same room. As a contrast I made some others with a tapestry fabric from Dalston Mills. In addition I made some floor cushions (DD2 is a floor dweller) using the same tapestry fabric.

I like cushion cover making. It is instant effect.

If you have mainly scraps, I made a patchwork padded lunch bag for DD2 using scraps from the various dresses I had made for her.

Ah, i've just thought of something I fancied making before, like a sewing machine caddy. off to google patterns now.

@GnomeDePlume that's a good plan. I’d discounted dyeing my own because I want to use viscose but google tells me it’s the perfect base fabric. I’ll have a look for a suitable plain base - although part of me wants to try tie dyeing one of my ditsy florals 🤣

This is the pattern I’ll be using. I made it in striped viscose for a festival and it was deliciously swishy. I fear that a more structured fabric will make the triangular bits stick out too much

Hi everyone thanks for the welcome and the advice. I made a toile of the york pinafore in an old bedsheets abd it was too large in the hips so I am cutting out one size down. I was going to do the kangaroo pocket but now considering the side pockets instead. One more question, I am using a fairly thin denim and don't have an overlocker, how would you recommend I finish the seams please?

@GnomeDePlume I will definitely get calico in future I think. I have made mine from a ripped bedsheets so not really usable at all. But it was definitely helpful. I might be asking you for cushion advice in a few weeks I got some lovely curtains from Facebook yesterday and want to use the too small pair for cushions or tiebacks.

@NutellaEllaElla I know you have found something now but I love making bags when I want something quick. I made this one recently in a couple of hours.

@Frumpyunicorn I started the York with the kangaroo pocket but later versions have had side pockets and they’re now my preferred option. (My daughter loved them too when she tried mine on!)

@Frumpyunicorn my sewing machine has a special overlocker foot and several stitches, so you could see if yours has similar? The foot has a little brush on it. I've since bought an overlocker because I just couldn't resist 😁

I got a bit further on with my jeans last night but am making the most of the sunshine to get out in the garden today. Will do some more sewing this evening.

@Frumpyunicorn I’ve only ever made the side pockets, but I love them - deep and generous so no worries about losing keys/phone if you need to bend over or whatever.

To finish the edges I’d use a zigzag - I usually do one about 4mm wide and set the stitch length to 1.5mm for finishing seams.

@Frumpyunicorn I’m a sucker for a nice seam finish and for creating more work than necessary, so I’d be tempted to use bias binding to finish those edges. Hong Kong bias binding is pure perfection as far as I’m concerned 😍 Zigzag or overlock stitch are probably more sensible suggestions though!

Congrats on mastering that invisible zip insertion @GnomeDePlume . Along the lines of double sided sewing tape, I’ve recently discovered glue basting for securing small fiddly bits into place before sewing, a.k.a. using a Pritt stick instead of pins. I wouldn’t use it for everything, but it’s great for collars, plackets etc.

@CrimsonAlligator thank you, excellent tip about using pritt stick!

I too am a fan of binding. For Christmas I made DM a needlecord jacket. My machine was struggling with multiple layers so I bound all the exposed edges with a pretty bias binding I had left over from another project.

Gaah! I bought some 'sparkle moonlight jersey' recently - did the pre-wash and now my washing machine and all the other clothes that were in the wash along with it are completely coated in pinky-red glitter. It's like I've opened a glitter bomb in the utility room. Luckily I only got 1m of it, I'd bought it and thought I'd ordered more from one of those places that does both per-metre and 3m bundles so was a bit gutted when it arrived, but now I'm like, thank god!

Lucky escape @kittykarate

Good old Abakhan had almost what I wanted. Some vibrant tie dye viscose but only a metre so I’m going to be using it with plain black. Some nice black/grey viscose because I can’t buy just what I went in for. Just over a fiver for the two

Excellent result there @jins.

I’m starting to think not all Abakhan’s are created equally as I can never find anything in the one that’s “local” to me. It’s mainly quilting cottons & cuddle fleece 😕 Where are all these much more fabulous versions of Abakan?

Mostyn is amazing but you’d expect that from the first store really. I usually find good stuff in Chester and Shrewsbury. Birkenhead is a bit hit and miss. There’s loads of cuddle fleece and quilting cotton in all of them but the bins with treasure are usually further back. I wish they’d keep rolls of fabric type together though rather than colour. It’s all a bit of a jumble but I love it

Manchester Abakhan is a bit more 'floral' in terms of the remnant bins, but it has a reasonable selection. The organization on the upstairs rolls of fabric is a bit odd, I can't work out the logic.

I've been splurging on patterns in the sale - https://littlemisssewnsew.co.uk/collections/sale-50-off had a few so I got

Friday Pattern Company - Avenir jumpsuit
Sew House SEven - Tabor V Neck
Sew House Seven - Wildwood Wrap dress
True Bias - Ogden Cami
Seasons of East - Spring in London T shirt
Jalie - Renee Pull on Pants

Preston Abakan can be hit or miss but I got some gorgeous wool blend coating in a very flattering peach shade in the summer. Have just been to the Chanel show so inspired to try to make a boxy jacket and straight skirt or shift dress.

@WickDittington I went to the Chanel show at the V&A before Christmas - very inspiring.

I've just pieced together the LB Pullover pdf pattern by Paper Theory. This was one of the free patterns offered by the Foldline in their 12 Days of Christmas.

I’ve spent ages doing pattern Tetris on my tie dye viscose and just can’t get it to work. It’s short by less than 30 cm and I can usually wiggle round that but not this time. Making the bodice out of plain black doesn’t help either as the problem pieces are the big triangular drapey bits. I might pop back to Abakhan to see if there’s another piece I missed but I’m not hopeful.

I bought a pair of reduced Tesco jeggings yesterday in a size too big with the intention of tweaking them to fit perfectly but the bloody things fit like a glove. Obviously I’m carrying more Xmas weight than I thought 😥.

I got some nice stuff from Preston Abakhan before Christmas and Liverpool was really good too. I got some lovely fabric a couple of years ago from the Birkenhead store too, although it's quite a small shop.

Thanks for the heads up @kittykarate - I bought the donny shirt and a couple of grain line shirts.

I don't have abakhan anywhere near me and I hate their web shop.

Had to do my own pattern tetris this morning. Itch to Stitch Sibiu top and 10cm less fabric than I needed for it. I'd been too lazy to shorten the pattern as ITS patterns are made for men giants, anyhow but I was forced to overcome my laziness to fit it on the fabric!

Made the Seasons of East Spring in London tshirt using that 1m of glittery fabric. I sized down 2 sizes as 1. It looked very roomy and 2. I was half a metre short ! Even then the back.is bodged in 3 pieces.

Nice @kittykarate

Well I’ve cut the new look pattern out of the black and grey viscose and it has been a nightmare. I had to buy two separate 1m lengths so I have loads of waste but still had to joint two pieces to get the final triangular drape piece cut out. It won’t be too obvious as the join is between waist and armpit and the drape shouldn’t be affected

I've made a wearable toile in black scuba of the Jalie Renee trousers - fast make, but sadly no pockets. Must have another go at the sabrina slims pattern, as that has pockets.

Can anyone recommend me a trouser pattern. I'm hoping to start a dressmaking class soon (awaiting confirmation of a space) so would like to challenge myself & do trousers.
I'm short so I prefer cigarette type trousers. I see the Jalie Renee ones mentioned but they don't have a waistband & I don't suit that style, can be elasticated.. Also any recommendations for a decent weight fabric with some give, I'm thinking more of a spring wear ....by the time I actually get them finished!