Stitch and bitch thread #8. It’s all starting to unravel

[NutellaEllaElla]

Welcome back and welcome for the first time to any newbies. As we go back into autumn/winter mode, sewing days are more and more appealing as the wind gales outside. I enjoyed looking back over the last thread, there were so many beautiful patterns (so little time), such beautiful makes, that thread is an absolute goldmine for inspiration. Also such wisdom from you lovely lot! Thank you. I couldn't do it without you actually as no one around me sews and you have imparted such great advice, hints and tips.

@PickAChew
@kittykarate
@TragicMuse
@SBAM
@pastabest
@Jins
@Blackamericanonosugar
@CrimsonAlligator
@SleepingisanArt
@dubyalass
@Brefugee
@InMySpareTime
@Rosenspants
@rivercobbler
@Karatema
@bookbook
@Sewingdufus
@FletchingStraight
@SideWonder
@CarolynKnappShappy
@Chewbecca
@eldorado02
@PrincessofWellies
@123ZYX
@Storynanny1
@Tinuviel
@Wildernesstips
@Dellabob123
@florentini
@longpathtohappiness
@twobluechickens

It's more the fabric pulling on the bar tack and tearing that I'm worried about. I'll try to take a photo tomorrow because it's really hard to explain! But thanks.

looks great, @Jins - does it have pockets?

Giant fabric shop in closest town (that i discovered just before Christmas although it's been there 2 years) has some interesting patterns for hoodies, and some really cool sweatshirt fabric as part of an outlet shop thing they're doing with another company. They also have bundles, so you can just get the pattern and the bundle of fabric you like, cut it out and get going. It can all be done on the overlocker/regular machine.

Hopefully I'll be making one for my DH for his birthday.

No pockets in that pattern @Brefugee but they could be added in the side swishy bits. It might affect the swishiness though.

I’m looking forward to my next project. When I bought the viscose for this dress I found some dark denim blue in the basket marked ponte. When I got to the till she weighed it as suiting so I pointed out it was in with the ponte so after a big discussion with the manager they decided it was jacquard knit which was 70% off. So I’m planning a pair of either leggings or yoga pants.

I’m going to bite the bullet this year and return to Sabrina slims. The wearable toile I made in ponte wasn’t really a great result as it was too stretchy so I’ve found some bengaline in Pound Fabrics with the right amount of stretch and will use that and work through the fitting guide properly

Yes, I definitely struggled with my Sabrina Slims due to the shitness of the ponte I was using. It wasn't so much too much stretch, as the complete lack of recovery after the stretch, so knees bagged, the crotch drooped whilst still being camel toed and I didn't even review what sins it was committing in the back. I just had to bin them as I couldn't bear to wear them.

I had a much better experience making the Jalie ponte trousers using Scuba that had a good spandex content, so I'll definitely give the Sabrina's another try if I come across some more useful fabric.

Yes I’m becoming a fan of scuba myself. I’ve got a couple of small pieces ready to add a contrast stripe on the neoprene I picked up for paddleboard shorts but I’m tempted to try Sabrinas in it.

Inspired by you all and soeof the patterns recently posted I'm hoping to sew some clothes over the next few weeks

I was finally sewing some clothes - I’d got a hopefully wearable toile of the Mood Gambit pinafore cut out - but then we bought guinea pigs so now I’m making guinea pig bedding. Sewing two layers of fleece and a layer of zorb isn’t fun 🐹 at least they’re cute.

What's zorb?

its a material that soaks up liquid - you can get it in varying degrees of thickness . Used for reuseable nappies , dog beds etc . I use it to make my daughters reuseable sanitary pads

Ah, I've never heard of that before. Thanks

I have a pinafore! Just need to hem and do some inside seam tidying. Thanks for all of your help. I have one question, I really struggled with the binding on the neck and have got a small tuck on the back. I am not sure whether to leave it or to unpick and redo, my only concern with that is further ruining the neckline as I have already noticed a few tiny holes from pinning. Thanks.

I also have a fabric question. I went into Guthrie and garnie and fell in love with their milk smooth drape tencil twill fabric, but it was £26 a metre which i wont spend until i improve a bit. Does anyone know of an alternative? I would use it for a top or a skirt. I just don't know enough about fabrics to find an alternative online! Thank you

Ooh great work @Frumpyunicorn! I'm in no position to advise about neck bindings. My nemesis. Are you local to G&G? Because i'm sure i've seen the same stuff in Barry's or the Fancy Silk store. The staff are so knowledgable as well, they redirected me away from wool to ponte when I didn't know what I was doing .

Love that dress @Jins.

I made a bag this weekend. My first go at piping. DD gave me a book of bags for my birthday. No patterns but clear instructions.

Debating whether I need a heavier duty sewing machine as so much of my sewing is on heavy weight fabrics. I made a cord jacket for DM and my Pfaff only just coped.

Nice work @Frumpyunicorn and @GnomeDePlume !

Having sewn with a few Meet MILK fabrics, I think any alternative I suggest for their tencil twill will be a disappointment. It’s absolutely beautiful stuff. Do you know what pattern you want to use for the skirt or top? That may help us suggest something else that could be suitable.

Thanks @CrimsonAlligator I want to make the remy raglan top (I have some nice patterned viscose but also fancy a plain one) and also an estuary skirt, but one I can wear in colder months (in summer I would use linen).

@NutellaEllaElla I don't live there anymore but still have family nearby so make an occasional trip down. I will try out those shops next time. If anyone knows any good fabric shops in the sheffield / leeds area I would be grateful!

I like the bag @GnomeDePlume I have just bought a janome sewist which seems pretty sturdy but have only sewn fairly thin denim on it so far

@Frumpyunicorn thank you. I will take a look at that and see how it compares to my Pfaff. I do want to be able to sew denim.

I have an Elna 6005 on which I've made six pairs of jeans and it's managed pretty well. From memory Elna is part of Janome now. My machine was my grandma's and she would have spent a decent amount of money on it because she did lots of sewing.

The most useful investments for sewing jeans are fresh denim needles for every pair, Gutermann extra-strong thread and a hammer for bashing the seams flat before you sew them together. Jeans patterns often use flat-felled seams so when you're sewing the inseam you might be sewing through six layers of denim - easier to get it under the foot if you've whacked it flatter with a hammer first.

What pfaff do you have, @GnomeDePlume ?

My Ambition is pretty fearless (unless I ask it to stitch single jersey and then it whinges constantly)

My little janome M50QDC can also happily sew through as much as I can squeeze under it's foot, with the right needle.

@PickAChew it's a Smarter 260c, their entry level computerised machine.

I'm pretty religious about changing needles and using the correct needle.

@twobluechickens I am starting to notice how many DIY tools are now living in my sewing room. Metal rulers and metal tape measure were already there. The hammer joined them yesterday to do eyelets.

I hadn't thought of flattening seams with a hammer!

It really works! I also use the hammer for jeans buttons.

The only thing mine struggles with is doing bar tacks, especially with the extra-strong thread.

My friend has a Singer heavy duty Jeans which seems to stitch anything she’s tried on it. I’ve got a multigenerational collection of sewing machines so if my new Necchi won’t handle it I try my 25 year old Toyota. If they fail I’ve got my Mum’s old New Home and if that doesn’t cut it I’ve got my Singer 99k 🤣

There’s an 1880 treadle Singer in the garage that I’ve been meaning to restore for about 30 years as well.

I’m raring to go today but I’ll probably start faffing when I get into my sewing space. I have a fairly standard pair of light grey joggers that usually get dirty within an hour of putting them on. I’m going to try to find my black French Terry and make a pair that should look cleaner for longer

I’m sure we have someone on this thread who’s made a lot of Remi’s @Frumpyunicorn, but I can’t remember who it is. Not having made that pattern myself, I think that the risk of using a medium weight fabric for that kind of top is that it could end up changing the look of the garment a lot. I’d think you’d ideally need something with a nice amount of drape.

I’m not a swishy skirt maker, so can’t really advise on that. I think denim is one of the fabrics recommended for that skirt, but that would result in a different look to one made in tencil.

Sorry, that’s probably not very helpful. Hopefully others on this thread have some better suggestions.

It's me, @CrimsonAlligator and it definitely needs at least the drape that linen offers. Viscose is ideal but you'd have to forego the roll up sleeves.

Your pfaff has a pretty beefy motor, (70W,the same as my pfaff, I think) so it's a shame it's struggling. Can it handle heavier fabrics if you hand crank it through thicker layers or tap the pedal to just do one stitch at a time?

I’ve made just one Remy but it was in viscose which was perfect. It’s got loads of ease - one to size down in.

I picked up a free pattern for Leggings this week so I’m able to compare with the other 5oo4 leggings pattern I have. I haven’t worn leggings for a while as my peculiar shape meant that to get a comfortable waist I ended up with baggy legs. I’m looking forward to getting a pair that fits although I do worry that I’ll look like a toffee apple.

@Jins for leggings that truly fit try Apostrophe Patterns, the pattern is generated to your measurements and % stretch of fabric.