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Share your dilemmas and get honest opinions from other Mumsnetters.

To say vanity sizes should be rolled back?

506 replies

amoreoamicizia · 23/07/2024 13:37

I bought some vintage St. Michael shorts this weekend in a size 12 which fitted me perfectly. In current sizes I'm an 8 or sometimes- incredibly- a 6 (looking at you, Boden).

As flattering as it is to think of myself as a size 8, it's simply not the truth or a reflection of reality. A small size 12 does seem about right, as that was my size as a slim-ish teenager in the 90s.

Who is this vanity sizing really helping? Who does it serve? Isn't it about time clothing manufacturers were held to account and forced to roll back sizes to what they were in the early 00s, at least?

OP posts:
Thread gallery
9
Likewhatever · 23/07/2024 16:51

YouHaveAnArse · 23/07/2024 16:40

It didn't occur to me that 'hip' might mean arse and thighs - my hips are the widest part of my lower body (a comparatively smaller arse and much smaller waist means I don't buy trousers, basically, because they aren't gonna fit unless the store makes a curvy/hourglass fit, and that;s been the case regardless of dress sizes I've been) and if I'm taking a hip measurement in something I'm checking the bit where, well, my actual hips are going to go.

It would be good if hip meant hip wouldn’t it, then we’d all know where we are. Lots of measuring instructions say to measure your widest part, which in my case is just below my hip.

NonPlayerCharacter · 23/07/2024 16:53

fc123 · 23/07/2024 16:37

Ex designer/ clothing industry / pattern cutter here Confused
The reason sizes changed is this:
People have got larger over the decades ( a whole other thread /topic), not just weight wise but height too.
I create a dress and wish to manufacture 1000 over 5 sizes.
I decide a cutting ratio to ensure that I sell as many as possible and the 'average' sized body , therefore the one you sold the most of, was always labelled a 12.

My graded sizes for this style would be 8,10,12,14,16.
In this imaginary business ( for the purpose of the thread) I know my target customer and so I also know the sizes I'll likely sell the most of.
A typical cutting docket would be this ratio: 1/3/4/2/1

I was trading and manufacturing throughout the period whereby sizes needed to change as I recall dockets going into production and larger sizes selling out with too many smaller sizes leftover.
I also traded in vintage clothing during the early 80's and 1950's high st stuff was tiny even compared to then.

I remember changing my base size blocks twice, once just shifting it up 1 (so the 10's became 6's) then again in about 2010 but by a half size. This was just to make the 10/12 the most average high volume size ( in the types of ranges I created).
It was the 90's that size 6 really became more used ( previously it didn't really exist and the 80's was all very loose fit anyway). Very petite women used to have to buy teenage sizes ( which were more common then as a separate range).

It was called vanity sizing but all it was really keeping the size 12 as the size for Ms Majority and the size that would outsell all others in a standard range.

Thank you.

Maybe people will believe you, because Lord knows they never believe me. I don't know why, but some people absolutely must believe that it's all a huge conspiracy to flatter fat women into thinking they're thin and absolutely nothing to do with the mere practicalities of clothing needing to get bigger and sizing being about scale, based around the most popular size.

Singleandproud · 23/07/2024 16:54

@fc123 really interesting, thanks.

It's abit like weather then, when meteorologists talk about the weather and new 'highs' when they compare the weather to the average they are comparing it to the last 30 years average, so we are in the 1991-2020 section now opposed to comparing to early so the average shifts upwards as the years increase.

fc123 · 23/07/2024 16:55

RottenApplesSpoilTheLot · 23/07/2024 16:48

really interesting thank you - so its based on the premise that a 12 is what the average woman would wear. I never knew that.

Yes 🙂. And the average has changed over the decades so our base size blocks changed to reflect that.
as an aside, I'm now helping in my daughters business which is baby wear NBorn up to age 4.
I've just helped her create a new set of size blocks for her factory to base the patterns on.
babies/ toddlers are bigger now too so we regraded everything to suit her 'average ' customer ( mostly UK based) based on her experience ( and her own 2 children plus all her mates babies/toddlers).
theyre definitely a bit more generous than cheaper high st brands baby wear but they fit well and proportions are perfect ( I think!!)

StoneTheCrone · 23/07/2024 16:56

Something needs doing.

probably the best solution would be to label everything by cm or inches, e.g. a 28" waist trousers/skirts but then again, everything seems to be stretch material now or come with a horrible elasticated/gathered waist.

Every time I look online for trousers, coulottes or a skirt, I see something nice with a flat (seemingly) waistband but lo and behold, you check the back view and there it is - a horrible, bunched-up elasticated waistband.

Back to sizing, I remember in the 80s when people used to refer to 'the average size 10 girl.' A size 10 was a 32" bust, 24" waist and 34" hip. I was enormous by all accounts as a size 14 - that's the point at which all clothes in shops and dress patterns stoped being produced. Now that size 14 is a size 8 in some shops. Madness.

Notonthestairs · 23/07/2024 16:58

Really interesting @fc123 - so the change in sizes is essentially business models adapting.

I hope your daughter's business goes well. What a talented bunch of women the fc family are.

JohnnyAndTheDead · 23/07/2024 16:58

FeelingSoOverwhelmed · 23/07/2024 13:51

Do threads like this do anything useful, or do they just serve as a way for people to make digs at bigger women (eg a modern size 12 would only fit someone "very large").
I'm not convinced that relabelling sizes would do anything to bring women's weight down, and as a PP said the whole numerical sizing thing is quite arbitrary anyway so why on earth would reverting to older sizes be any more "valid"? Surely what would be better would be to use actual measurements, as people have said, and then at least there would be some consistency.

Exactly this. It's just an excuse to have a dig at people who aren't waifs. "Very large" at a size 12 is just spiteful.

fc123 · 23/07/2024 17:07

Singleandproud · 23/07/2024 16:54

@fc123 really interesting, thanks.

It's abit like weather then, when meteorologists talk about the weather and new 'highs' when they compare the weather to the average they are comparing it to the last 30 years average, so we are in the 1991-2020 section now opposed to comparing to early so the average shifts upwards as the years increase.

Kind of.
I think sofas and chairs are bigger too now.
I had a popular body con range about 15 years back. Yes, it could have been called 'body fascist' in some ways but it was targeted at dancers, young women etc and I remember after a couple years the size L never sold so I chose to label up as XXS XS S M and omitted the size L
And shifted the sizes down so the M became the old L etc.
Then it sold .
To be honest I never gave it much thought at the time, just reacted to how my customer purchased things.

fc123 · 23/07/2024 17:16

Notonthestairs · 23/07/2024 16:58

Really interesting @fc123 - so the change in sizes is essentially business models adapting.

I hope your daughter's business goes well. What a talented bunch of women the fc family are.

Thank you.
Patterns are just flat shapes that create a 3D to go around the body.
Baby wear has its own challenges ( like cute chubby arms, space for nappy etc etc!)

The pattern dept in any large corporation will be aware of their 'target customer ' anyway. Age etc.
M and S ( as an example) do have an older customer base for their ladies wear so I would imagine their fit and size charts reflect that.
I'm 61 but slim yet I'm definitely bigger around my waistline than I was 40 years ago and my bottom isn't so peachy now.
So if I was cutting a dress pattern for myself now ( size 8) it wouldn't fit a 20 yr old the same as she would likely have a smaller waist but more fullness around the bust and hips.

NonPlayerCharacter · 23/07/2024 17:19

fc123 · 23/07/2024 17:07

Kind of.
I think sofas and chairs are bigger too now.
I had a popular body con range about 15 years back. Yes, it could have been called 'body fascist' in some ways but it was targeted at dancers, young women etc and I remember after a couple years the size L never sold so I chose to label up as XXS XS S M and omitted the size L
And shifted the sizes down so the M became the old L etc.
Then it sold .
To be honest I never gave it much thought at the time, just reacted to how my customer purchased things.

Classic customer profiling! Dancers tend to be slimmer, so dancewear comes up small. If we had standardised sizing across the board, makers couldn't do this.

TonyeKnausgaard · 23/07/2024 17:32

I find it very irritating that it's not possible to buy a shirt from M&S, for example, because I need a size 8.

You can see here. Model wears a size eight. The shirt is huge! Look how much extra material there is around the waist especially. And she's tall - if I put that shirt on at my height, it would look like I was wearing a nightie.

https://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-cotton-broderie-shirt/p/clp60651508?intid=mobile_app_pdp_share

M&S

Pure Cotton Broderie Shirt | M&S Collection | M&S

This pure cotton shirt features a delicate broderie design for a feminine, sheer look. Designed in a classic regular fit, it's complete with a collared neck and button-through fastening. M&S Collection: easy-to-wear wardrobe staples that combine class...

https://www.marksandspencer.com/pure-cotton-broderie-shirt/p/clp60651508?intid=mobile_app_pdp_share

Idratherbepaddleboarding · 23/07/2024 17:38

Misthios · 23/07/2024 13:54

Life is so rough when you’re a teeny tiny.

Surely we deserve to have clothes that fit us though?? Why so bitter?

toomanytonotice · 23/07/2024 17:54

i think it depends on your shape as well.

i am an hourglass. Back in the 80/90’s I learned to stick with certain brands. Topshop and the like were shaped for Kate Moss fashion, straight up and down. So even if you sized up the proportions were wrong- if they fit my hips or bust they’d be massive elsewhere. I’d be a comfortable size 10 in brands cut for hips/waist/boobs.

the style of that era was designed for that shape as well, satins, cross cut skirts that looked shit on me.

nowadays the cuts are less like that, so it it that sizes are bigger, or just cut for women rather than the 90’s size 0 beckham body type.

going back further as pp said women were smaller, possibly due to the post war years and the fenfen years.

i am 10lbs heavier than I was post kids, and I’m only a size bigger than I was in my 20’s.

OllyBJolly · 23/07/2024 17:59

JohnnyAndTheDead · 23/07/2024 16:58

Exactly this. It's just an excuse to have a dig at people who aren't waifs. "Very large" at a size 12 is just spiteful.

Rubbish! I've found this thread very informative (special thanks to @fc123 !).

It's an issue. We're getting fatter and masking it by changing clothes labels. A size 12 now is much larger than it was 20 years ago. Fact, not spite.

Disturbia81 · 23/07/2024 18:19

I think overweight isn't good but think women were also too thin back then due to poor nutrition etc. I'm slimmer than most people I know and see walking around but I would be classed as big back then.

Divasaurus · 23/07/2024 18:36

OllyBJolly · 23/07/2024 17:59

Rubbish! I've found this thread very informative (special thanks to @fc123 !).

It's an issue. We're getting fatter and masking it by changing clothes labels. A size 12 now is much larger than it was 20 years ago. Fact, not spite.

But shouldn’t we all then be looking to other markers that demonstrate whether we are overweight or not - such as actual weight? Few people are stupid enough to believe that they are healthy if they are (for example) 14 stone but can fit into a size 12 or 14. If someone is a size 12 and with a healthy BMI, then what exactly is the problem - who cares what people weighed/fit into two decades ago!

SallyWD · 23/07/2024 18:37

OllyBJolly · 23/07/2024 17:59

Rubbish! I've found this thread very informative (special thanks to @fc123 !).

It's an issue. We're getting fatter and masking it by changing clothes labels. A size 12 now is much larger than it was 20 years ago. Fact, not spite.

Yes it's fact that sizes have increased but it's not true to say that all size 12s are very large, or even large. If you're tall, size 12 can be slim. As I said I'm tall and a size 12. BMI is 22. At my recent health check the doctor said I was the perfect weight.

KimberleyClark · 23/07/2024 18:39

Alltheprettyseahorses · 23/07/2024 13:53

I hate competitive slimness threads. I'm 12-14 (yes, including M&S clothes) but a couple of winters ago I bought an old size 12 Next coat from the 90s and it's massive on me. Just wear what fits you now from whatever shop you go in, there's no need to try to make perfectly normal in any era current M&S size 12s feel like giant zeppelins.

👏👏👏

KimberleyClark · 23/07/2024 18:40

JohnnyAndTheDead · 23/07/2024 16:58

Exactly this. It's just an excuse to have a dig at people who aren't waifs. "Very large" at a size 12 is just spiteful.

This.

Wheredidileavemycarkeys · 23/07/2024 18:50

I see no reason to make sizes smaller tbh. It would be much more useful to have consistency in dress size across different shops/brands.

OllyBJolly · 23/07/2024 18:54

Divasaurus · 23/07/2024 18:36

But shouldn’t we all then be looking to other markers that demonstrate whether we are overweight or not - such as actual weight? Few people are stupid enough to believe that they are healthy if they are (for example) 14 stone but can fit into a size 12 or 14. If someone is a size 12 and with a healthy BMI, then what exactly is the problem - who cares what people weighed/fit into two decades ago!

Tbh that's exactly how I know it's time to rein it in - my waistband gets a bit uncomfortable. I never weigh myself. If I was still wearing size 12s I'd be heavy and unfit.

Wideskye · 23/07/2024 19:03

I suppose it depends how far back you want to go for your standard size 10?
1910, 1940, 1960, 1980 ,2000?

People are taller and broader than in 1924.

Disturbia81 · 23/07/2024 19:04

@SallyWD Same, I'm 5ft 7 and slim at size 12. Smallest I could get down to is size 10 when all my bones were sticking out, periods stopped, always cold etc. I have a wide skeleton.. We're all different.
I remember Samantha Janus in Eastenders was a size 14 and was really slim.

NonPlayerCharacter · 23/07/2024 19:15

OllyBJolly · 23/07/2024 17:59

Rubbish! I've found this thread very informative (special thanks to @fc123 !).

It's an issue. We're getting fatter and masking it by changing clothes labels. A size 12 now is much larger than it was 20 years ago. Fact, not spite.

It absolutely is a fact and I don't think anyone disputes it. It's the reason for it that gets people worked up. It's not a vanity-based conspiracy to lie to fat people. It's pure logistics to keep up with a population of bigger people.

If we didn't ever recalibrate sizes, we would still be using patterns and measurements from 1750.

Likewhatever · 23/07/2024 19:16

I don’t think anyone is digging at people who aren’t waifs. I do think people are kidding themselves about how big they are. And I include myself in that, I gained weight slowly and didn’t notice until I was weighed by my GP. Why? Because I was still wearing a size 12.

We don’t need to go backwards to set the standard but we do need one to help us going forwards.

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