I visited 20 odd years ago. I remember very clearly entering Jerusalem. I couldn’t get my head around the fact that I was there - this place I had learned about as a child and it is golden - someone told me all the buildings had to be made out of the local rock which is yellowish. It was also a party city, pulsating, vibrant, kicking in all the right places. I couldn’t believe it and loved it straight away.
I spoke to someone a few years back who said it was very different, now. Much more conservative.
I was on a kibbutz near by and we caught the tail end of the hippy trail I think. The film ‘Hair’ was played all the time and the backpackers I hung out with we’re all Dutch, Danish, etc.
Funnily enough we all got back in touch with one another during lockdown - we had a unique experience which none of us will ever forget. It also gave me so much in terms of self belief, direction, focus - like a great weight was off my shoulders. Not sure whether that was being outdoors or the sunshine or the free spiritedness nature of backpacking.
Eilat was interesting - I wish I had seem more of the North but the most extraordinary thing was crossing the border at Taba into Egypt. We used to hitch hike in lorries across the Negev from the kibbutz to Eilat so we saw Masada, the Dead Sea etc but the landscape and atmosphere in the Sinai is something I’ll never forget - a complete shift overtakes your senses and you are in a timeless zone. Mostly we met Bedouins and some Cairo arabs and other backpackers on their way to the take a felucca down the Nile.
It is so different to our experiences here - history and nature overwhelm you and give you a sense of what the world was first of all, before we built on everything.