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If you're worried about your pet's health, please speak to a vet or qualified professional.

Labrador Puppy

307 replies

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 18:15

Hi all. I'm a long time lurker but first time joiner and poster.

I have three young children (ages from 16 months to 4 years) and we've just purchased a gorgeous gold pedigree labrador bitch. She is arriving on Monday and at the moment she is six weeks old. The breeders told us that she has been eating puppy food and drinking whole milk as well as feeding from her mother.

I've had dogs before but this is the first time I've had a labrador and the first time I've had a puppy of my own. What do I need to know? I thought I'd ask here as you all seem to be the most experienced I've read.

Thanks for any answers.

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revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 21:13

I know someone who bought from their first litter four years ago and their two pups are fine and healthy, both bitches. I'm not sure if that makes a difference but if anyone would know, you lot would.

Regarding stairs, we have two steps down to our kitchen and curved stairs. Can the puppy not go up the stairs at all? It will be hard to keep her off even with a stair gate. What about when she's older (and if so, at what age?)

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daisydotandgertie · 29/03/2012 21:14

I'd have her upstairs with you in her crate for the first few nights. She has a lot of change to get use to - and certainly won't have been on her own at night before.

daisydotandgertie · 29/03/2012 21:15

I wouldn't worry about the kitchen stairs, but I would find some way of stopping her on any others.

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 21:20

We have a big homemade MDF gate on the bottom of the stair case to stop our children running up and down the stairs and our youngest following. There's a 4? gap at the bottom where the stairs aren't level so I'm worried she may crawl under as a puppy.

Our garden is all cement and slabs too and I heard too much exercise on hard surfaces contributes. Should I let her out there just for a roam and then when she's ready for a little more exercise when grown take her to the local park with big open fields?

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AllergicToNutters · 29/03/2012 21:21

revolutionconfirmed - you sound like a lovely caring owner to be. I agree that the 'breeder' doesn't sound all that great (we are getting a lab later in the year and I have personal experience of a puppyfarmed pup) I have been rigourous in my search for a proper breeder and it has taken a lot of time but I am confident in the three breeders I am waiting on. When pup arrives we need lots of pics and information about how it is for you all Smile. good luck OP

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 21:29

Thank you Allergic. I just want to give this lovely dog a forever home where she is loved and taken care of.

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revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 21:30

Does anyone recommend a specific food for lab puppies? The breeders are feeding her on Pedigree pouchesat the moment. Is dry food better? A combination of both? A specific brand?would it upset her tummy to change her food even though she's still so young?

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baskingseals · 29/03/2012 21:40

I would definitely have her upstairs to sleep with you for the first few nights.
she'll cry if you don't. also perhaps a hot water bottle.

agree with the socialising aspect.

hope you enjoy her

daisydotandgertie · 29/03/2012 21:46

Stick with pedigree for a week or two - even though it's not very good. She has enough to get used to without changing food.

Lots of people here feed raw or barf food - I don't. I use a good quality dry complete - Burns is good, Wainwrights from pets at home, fish4dogs, barking heads and symply are too. Avoid anything that can be brought from the vets or the supermarket. Their ingredients are poor quality and high in cereals.

Fnd something to fill the little gap in the stair gate while she's tiny. And puppy proof the house and garden - crawl around at puppy height and get any wires, plugs, plants etc out of the way. They have very sharp teeth!

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 21:50

I have a fabric draught excluder that could do the job or a rolled up blanket. If she starts to chew it do I gently tap her on the nose, say no and train her that way?

I'm puppy proofing this weekend. It's beginning to sound fun as I'm so eager for her to get here.

When she's in our room, shall I put down newspaper for accidents or just clean it in the morning? Also, how young is too young for a collar? Since she will be going on short waljs, should I get her used to the collar and about two weeks before she's allowed out in public put the lead on in the garden?

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daisydotandgertie · 29/03/2012 21:58

No. Don't ever tap her nose. There's no need and it will encourage her to nip or fear fingers/hands.

Just say no and take her away from whatever she's doing, then give her something else to do and praise her for that.

Put a collar on her on the way home, as soon as you pick her up. She will not really notice it then. Keep the collar on. She needs to get used to wearing one straight away.

For fastest house training, put her into the crate in your bedroom and shut the door. Take her out for a pee during the night if she needs to. Also take out after every meal, every game, every sleep and every hour. It should be cracked in a week or two then.

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 22:03

Thank you. You all have such great advice.

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revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 22:08

Another question (sorry), I was told there is such a thing as too much attention. As long as she isn't distressed in any way is it okay to cuddle her, sit with her etc as much as she wants or do I need to limit it?

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AllergicToNutters · 29/03/2012 22:15

revolution - i have heard that they should be encouraged to entertain themselves so they don;t become too reliant on humans for stimulation and company 24/7

revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 22:37

I've been reading the stickies on the labrador forum suggested and it has given me a lot of insight into being the leader of the pack and a lot of great tips on how to train a puppy into an obedient yet loving adult dog. I'm going to be following the tips to the last letter in the hope of having a loving, loyal dog who knows who the boss is.

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revolutionconfirmed · 29/03/2012 23:31

I'm looking in to health insurance too. Does anyone have recommendations?

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belindarose · 30/03/2012 07:02

For somethig else to read and watch, try googling Ian Dunbar. He has free online books called 'Before and after getting your puppy' as well as loads of articles and training videos. I followed a lot of his advice with my springer, who is doing very well. Good luck.

CalamityKate · 30/03/2012 09:21

Please ignore "leader of the pack/dominance/boss" stuff. It's long outdated.

Buy "The Culture Clash" if you're interested in modern, kind, non-confrontational, safe methods of training and how a dog thinks.

fairimum · 30/03/2012 09:33

recommend the crate training, very very useful with small children running about, we put our dogs in the crates over night and when i go out for a couple of hours, often when the children are eating and also if we have people over who are worried about the dogspuppy socialisation classes will be fab for all of you too :) enjoy :)

fairimum · 30/03/2012 09:35

argos pet insurance top cover (look for 'life cover') has been great for us and very good value!

fairimum · 30/03/2012 09:35

get a couple of puppy Kongs to keep busy and get her used to the crate!

fairimum · 30/03/2012 09:37

sorry for all the posts - if you want to move to dry food (which we have always found better and cheaper!), then you can soak the dry food in warm water to start with x

SDTGisAnEvilWolefGenius · 30/03/2012 10:47

We have petplan insurance for both our dogs (the pedigree lab and a rescue lab cross - pics on my profile). When we got ddog2, I did shop round the other insurance providers, to see if we could get a better price for the two, but we concluded that Petplan were the best on offer.

Our lab puppy slept downstairs in her cage from the word go. The first night she did cry for an hour or so, and the second night for about 20 minutes, but after that she settled into her cage, went there happily at bedtime, and we had no more problems. We were advised not to go downstairs to her, as that would set up a pattern and she'd expect that sort of attention every night. Obviously there's more than one theory on this, as this thread shows - and I'm glad I didn't know that at the time ours was a pup - our approach worked for us, but it's up to you which one you choose. We have a cat, and wanted the upstairs to be mainly his territory, somewhere safe away from the puppy, which was why we didn't want to have her upstairs at first.

I meant to say earlier in the thread that our puppy very quickly came to look on the cage as her place. We had it tucked in under the stairs, so it felt secure for her - if we hadn't had that option, I might have put a blanket over all but the front of the cage, to create a little cave for her, as she seemed to like that. She always got a bonio at bedtime, which helped to endear the cage to her, I think.

We did transfer her into a bed when she was bigger and had settled down (and stopped chewing everything), and now both dogs have their beds next to eachother under the stairs.

The chewing was pretty bad for a while - luckily most of our furniture isn't expensive or precious. We did our best to distract her from chewing the furniture, but some toothmarks are inevitable, I think. There was a stage when she was chewing the bottom of the fence planks until she could get a good grip on them, and pulling them off - so she could get into nextdoor's garden, because they have a labradoodle who she loved desperately and wanted to spend all her time with. She also used to take any toys she got (and any slippers etc she nicked) to the fence, to offer them to the other dog - it was very sweet. She did grow out of this stage when she was about a year old. I have to admit that we probably weren't as strict about distracting her from chewing as we should have been.

Labs are very easy to train, because they are so food-motivated. One bit of advice our breeder gave us was to take some of the dog's dried food out of their allocation for the day, and use that as the training treats - that way they think they are getting a treat but aren't getting more calories than they need - let a lab eat all it wants and it turns into a furry barrel. Ours once got into the cupboard where we stored the big bag of dried food, and ate 4.5kg of it, before she had to go and be sick - at which point we saw what was going on, and stopped her from going back to finish off what was left.

revolutionconfirmed · 30/03/2012 12:28

I've ordered her crate but I've just been informed it won't be here until Wednesday at the earliest which means the pup will have two nights without it. Any advice on the best plan for her for those two nights?

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wildfig · 30/03/2012 14:08

Can you borrow one from the vet or rent one from your local pet shop? My MIL has just hired a crate while her dog settles into a new house - am pretty sure she got it from the pet supplies shop.

I second all the wisdom about crates, house training pees on the hour, etc, and would add that it's worth getting one of those big food bins from Pets At Home to store the kibble in; more than once, my greedy dog has got his head into the sack and not stopped until he was found, be-barrelled.

Also, get a soft finger toothbrush and get the puppy used to having its teeth cleaned - HOW I WISH I had done this at the time...

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