Going from China to Nepal is such a culture shock. China is a very curated state, even if you're making your way around with Lonely Planet.
Nepal is such a vibrant explosion of life.
We bussed in from the Tibetan Plateau and followed a valley down into Kathmandu over two days. It was mindblowing coming down as the desert gradually greened up and suddenly became lush and verdent. The first half was on our highly organised official tour (we were very lucky to get permits to enter Tibet and the Everest National Park for base camp, and a week or two either side and it wouldn't have happened for political and seasonal reasons). We were dropped off at the border town, crossed the bridge into Nepal then public bus to Kathmandu. The mountain roads are perilous too.
Marigolds always remind me of Pokhara. I've got photos of the Annapurnas rising through the clouds behind the foothills looking totally surreal with the marigolds in the foreground. It's like one of those dreamy, OTT paintings with too much going on... but for real!
We travelled from the Nepalese border into India and Varanasi in one day and it was our most intense travel of the whole trip. Packed jeeps, multiple buses, walking through the border, hours of indeterminate waiting at Gorakpur station, then cramped on the train with people hanging around above in the luggage racks, then tuk tuks then walking the last bit into the old town where the streets were too narrow for the tuk tuks.
And after all the the hostel was not salubrious. We didn't trust the matresses for bedbugs, so slept on our mats on the floor, and next morning, hunted for somewhere better.
It was our third destination, somwhere more rural that we relaxed into India and enjoyed it. Everything is happening full throttle all around you. You can barely move without people wanting your attention. The second place we went to, I ended recieving delightful comments like "nice wife". Sigh. I did end up buying some baggier tops despite having been careful about coverage when packing.
The rest of India was fine. The open culture of harrassment seemed localised, and we kind of caught up with the pace. We didn't go into big cities like Delhi though.
Rajasthan, further west was a lot more relaxed as was the south.
This episode made me rather emotional seeing so many places I've been to! It's been good having a more varied "travelling" episode too.
I can't blame Sioned for getting overwhelmed, it's such a culture shock, especially when you're already exhausted.