Les Parisiennes de Mamansnet: Emergency thread!!

[Papyrophile]

Bonjour Mariannes. Sans botemps, I've taken action; if I am one of many, I'll ask MNHQ to remove this.

Oh gosh, that sounds very hard @Papyrophile

It is amazing how much destruction a small entity can create.

Do they know what kind of an insect it was?

It was a midge type of flying insect that causes toxoplasmosis behind the eye about 18 months, or longer, afterwards. Apparently it's endemic in Spain and Portugal (where we went) and around the Mediterranean, but unknown in the UK and uncommon in Northern Europe. Our vet is Belgian trained and she googled the human treatment for me, but UK vets don't study it at all.

Fortunately we have a shiny new eye infirmary with expertise in absolutely every kind of pathogen and parasite, and DH's samples were biopsied for all of it. It has been reassuring and the staff have been lovely. Interestingly, many of the specialists are from countries surrounding the Med (our surgeon is Greek) and the diagnosis clearly occurred to them pretty quickly.

I see Harvey Nicks is going to be trashed by Mike Ashley. On the one hand the only things I've ever bought in Harvey Nicks were 2 black Max Mara skirts. I almost bought a coat but was put off by the worst sales pitch ever ("it's really popular, we've sold loads" - which in the village that is Edinburgh, really isn't a selling point)

On the other hand Harvey Nicks has been around forever; the Edinburgh branch is a beautiful building, externally and internally, browsing there is a pleasure. So on balance I will miss it.

Phaedra yes it is going to be very missed! I don’t think i bought anything on HN but I went in many times and nearly bought something, I ended up not buying because at the time I needed the money for something else. But I have also sometimes stopped on the London top floor bar to find refuge from a busy day in London if I have been on my own. I liked sitting there specially on my own.
very sad indeed.

Oh I didn't know that about Harvey Nicks. I was never a customer but I've been to the Leeds branch a few times where the staff were always lovely and continued to be lovely even after I'd tell them I couldn't afford to buy anything but just liked to look. And, like Red, I enjoyed the coffee bar which was great for people watching (although I have to say, the coffee itself was disappointing).

If I remember correctly, the Leeds branch was the first one they opened outside London and, at the time, there were eyebrows raised at the choice. But it helped put Leeds on the map in all kinds of ways and I very much hope this doesn't have the reverse effect. The store opens (via a side entrance) onto a very attractive - and these days very swanky - Victorian arcade and I imagine HN's high end neighbours will be watching with interest and not a little alarm.

<Pathetic wave> hello everyone, catching up, too much to respond to so I'll just blanket with a, hope everyone's doing well and came through the hellish summer heat unscathed.

As I've been getting bombarded by silk scarves, those Shar-pei looking loafers and experiencing a bit of rain as if it's an alien thing to me, figured it's time to get back into proper clothes chatting.

I still seem to be consumed with summer clothes for now though, despite my best preparations I think I need a dedicated bit of my wardrobe for when it's 32+ weather but have yet to really figure out what that looks like. My beloved Lemaire silk trousers have given up on life (bought it secondhand and I suspect the previous owner tossed in the normal wash), I'd like to remake them but it's that crispy silk with a tiny smidge of synthetic in it that seems impossible to buy as a consumer.

At some point I did get a kaftan sort of dress from Sophie D'hoore (pic is of a different colour version), usually I look terrible in those but this one I didn't, the pattern probably saves a lot and having a slight bias cut at the back (I wear it back to front). Usually I wouldn't shell out this much money on a dress as I'd need to feel absolutely amazing in it but it was more an I'll feel amazing in it with the ridiculous heat. And while it's great at that, it requires a good iron which is the last thing I want to do in the heat. I'm contemplating making a version in herringbone linen, that can get away with a quick steam rather than a proper iron.

In between the ridiculous heat I did manage an outing to Paris when it was a blissful mid twenties and caught the Fashion in the 18th Century exhibit with a particular focus on the enlightenment. Unexpectedly it countered a lot of the issues I had with the Marie Antoinette Exhibit at the V&A, also went into the political and social dynamic with the revival of Marie Antoinette that barely got a gloss over at the V&A. Took some pictures if anyone is interested, although not sure how well just the visuals carry over, the research and text really made the exhibit.

I'm not too concerned about Harvey Nicks, they definitely have great staff, who always seem up for a good chat (much more so than selling anything), they were really lovely last time I was in London. But he also owns Flannels, iirc, and that doesn't have the usual stripped out Mike Ashley business feel either (I have a lot of issues with their interior design choices, but that's a different story). And on the slightly over optimistic end, Flannels marks down very aggressively in the sales. It's that I don't want to deal with the hassle from shipping from the UK and returns being a pain but otherwise I'd shop there more often.

Oh, and nearly forgot, I came here to chat about certain parts of the internet melting down over Sezane's rebrand. Tbh, I'm also mildly confused why they'd trade in their winning formula that's oft imitated, never duplicated to themselves becoming a bit of a Toteme clone with heavy Alaia, Phoebe Philo and similar influences (latest lookbook here. Obviously with lots of talk of slower releases and focus on higher quality (which I cynically read as prices going up, but with high oil prices and also a surge in demand for wool that's happening regardless).

On the other hand, I do sort of get it as the whole Parisian aesthetic they built their brand around initially is more myth than reality these days. It was always a bit fantasy-like but I guess it did diverge from reality at some point and it risks becoming parody. So from a creative standpoint I sort of admire them clearing the deck and starting anew, I'll reserve judgement on the new stuff until I see it in the flesh but for the moment I'm a bit about it.

Well Helloooo, lovely to see you bo! I saw a thread earlier today about the Sezane rebrand. I've never been much of a Sezane fan, could never understand all the fuss about it, although admittedly I've only really seen the clothes onscreen so they might have looked better in real life. But mostly I could not stand those goddam pouty models.

Anyway I've just had a browse through the new Lookbook and I quite like a few things, e.g. that red cardigan on the opening 'page', and at least the model is looking you straight in the eye so that's an improvement. But I'm not in the least tempted to buy anything, and I do wonder how their loyal customers will feel. They did have a clear identity before, even though it was one that I found quite annoying, and it seems a bit reckless to throw that away for.... well what exactly?

Good to see you back Bo
just seen the sesane page … I am very confused. I have bought in the past from them, specially when I needed ‘safe’ items that I knew would fit me, trousers for example
although it has been a couple of years since I bought from them , more because i mainly stopped buying new tbh, rather than anything they had done wrong
I will see what a couple of friends who are die hard followtof them feel about it now.
If I wanted something with that aesthetic I would go and buy something from the other brands surely ?
does it even have a Cos feel?
I would have thought there was space for them and for what they are trying to be now …

Apologies for the spelling, the autocorrect messed it up . I was making a conscious effort to spell the brand right

I've always liked their pictures, mostly shirts, as I don't like blouses but I've never wanted to buy anything.

But I did buy a suede jacket from Rise and Fall last week, as I had a code, and I returned the same item in a different colour in spring. I am now waiting for cooler weather to wear it. It was half the price of a suede Sezane jacket, and much less "fashiony" so fingers crossed it will be a stalwart. But very nicely cut, made and finished. I have mainly bought sheets and towels from them before, which they do extremely well. If you buy, they ask for suggestions, and acknowledge too.

I agree, Red, the online presentation and styling is very reminiscent of Cos. It's such an odd choice when they had a monopoly of a very specific corner of the market. I do feel for the diehards, there wasn't much out there where it was feminine and colourful with a consistency in how things fit. I think its real secret was always that it leaned a little sexy without being overt and therefore skirted the trap that Boden and similar brands can sometimes fall into where it can be unintentionally frumpy.

I haven't shopped with them in a long time either, I always felt they were a little overpriced for most things and if you had the time and inclination to look elsewhere you'd get better value for money. That too was a sort of asset for them, the curation aspect of it, as not everyone had or wanted to spend that time and knew they were buying a reliable thing.

The thing is, I think there's probably a large group of people who once shopped there and sort of grew out of it and now will have a look again. Not sure if that audience is large enough to replace their loyal base though. Or potentially that doesn't matter and it's a k-shaped economy thing where the new audience has a higher purchasing power where the loyal following predominantly buy in the archive sales and secondhand? I know a few designer brands have made that pivot successfully the last couple of years.

I'll have to seek out the other thread Flo, I didn't dare venture out into MN as a whole yesterday as I assumed there'd be a massive Harry and Meghan meltdown but the S&B board should be somewhat safe from that...

The first Sezane thread fell off quite quickly bo and I hadn't posted on it so can't track it down easily. But there's a new thread up now, not that many posts but generally unimpressed. I do sympathise with them - it was never my thing but it does seem an odd thing to do unless sales had really fallen away. It can take a long time for a brand to establish an identity but no time at all to lose it.

These last couple of weeks I've had a strong urge to dig out a 1950s beaded cardigan for this autumn, one I hadn't worn since the early 2000s. The only problem is, I got rid of it around 15 years ago. In my defence, there were nearly as many holes as there was wool and the silk lining was shattering. I couldn't have fixed it myself. But now I know a couple of women who probably could have salvaged it so I'm kicking myself. Plus I'm going to have to find a replacement now and that probably won't come cheap. Woe is me

I don't think Sezanne has an identity beyond the pouty models who can't do up their buttons. The clothes were basically Mint Velvet, Whistles and Jigsaw with clever marketing. They're all brands that are inoffensive but with no individual house style.

The new look book is a bit Phoebe Philo but don't scare the horses.

I've seen the new thread Flo, it's just a slice of the audience but it does somewhat reinforce my idea that their most loyal audience don't necessarily translate into the growth they require. I assume it's no longer as independent as it used to be and there's probably some private equity at play, I noticed they've opened up loads of US stores (think there's more there than in Europe).

Meanwhile, now that they've released the entire collection online, I've had a good old browse and have come away thinking it all seems quite reasonably priced, especially since they're doing a lot of manufacturing in countries like France and Italy. I <whispers> quite like the look of some items 😯 so if their aim was to bring back some of their old customers who grew out of it for whatever reason this may very well be a successful pivot. Interestingly enough, I had a look in on what the French part of the internet made of it and they're a lot more positive about it. I'll wait a bit with putting in an order, some reviews might be useful to have and I always discover half a new wardrobe whenever I switch it out between seasons (which I should be doing in the next two weeks or so depending on weather) so don't want to buy things until I've got a good idea of what I own already.

Realistically how much would the restoration of a beaded piece cost, Flo? Maybe that'll take some of the sting of no longer having it? I have a little beaded bag favourited on Vinted that's a bit of a bargain considering its original price and what others are asking for the same secondhand but so far I've resisted as it would be rarely worn as it seems quite delicate and it's an unusual shape. It's very cheering though, might need to take another look...

Oh , are beaded cardigans back? I missed that … what sort of thing are we talking about?

(I also think some of the new S stuff looks good and reasonably priced 😶)

<Makes room for Red over on the dark side of not hating the new Sezane>

I don't know if beaded cardigans are back Red, I'm just imagining that Flo once had some Betty Draper worthy 1950s beaded cardigan. I've seen some beading at Dries van Noten and Simone Rocha but they always have something like that (at insane prices) but have yet to see it anywhere else, but it's early for A/W stuff yet.

There does seem to be a lot of decorative touches that look almost handmade but it's mostly embroidery. Interesting that there's a pickup of that with the heritage designer brands now that Sezane seems to be purposefully moving away from that. Probably just cover for the constant viral 'how much' discourse and some designer clothes falling apart on arrival online content.

Had a look at Damson Madder's new arrivals last night, kind of struck me that they're actually a far more direct competitor to Sezane than their obvious copycats. It feels a bit fresher and daring, the quirkier styling might put some off but I think a lot of the old Sezane diehards could find themselves some nice items there. Even though I'm usually anti-cardigan I quite like some of the wrap cardigan and ballerina style tops Damson Madder have got in atm, will have to check the local department store for stock.

They're not back as far as I know Red, I just had a sudden yearning for one. It happens every so often - some people wake up in the morning and their first thought is, 'What a beautiful day, I'm so happy to be alive' but mine's more likely to be, 'I want to wear .... again'. But it's also possible that I read in some fashion forecast that they were coming back and internalised it so now I'm convinced it's my own idea. There's certainly a lot of Y2K nostalgia around so it might happen (although a lot of them then were quite delicate whereas this one was chunkier and lined and had a bit of a bomber jacket vibe). I guess time will tell!

That's a very good point bo, about the cost of repairing it, thank you! I don't mind missing beading - that adds a bit of history as far as I'm concerned - but it would have needed a new lining and extreme darning. It's the kind of thing the BBC Repair Shop might take on nowadays but I'd have had to make up some fantastical story about it, e.g. that the young Queen Elizabeth gave it to my mum when she was working as a shorthand typist at Buckingham Palace. (NB before the rumours go out, none of that is true!)

I bought a wonderful 1950s cashmere cardigan (black, silk-lined with pearl trim and clasp) in the local Salvation Army store when I lived in NYC in the 80s, and wore it until it it was threadbare, so I know exactly how you feel Flo. Still miss it! If I see one, should I take a picture for you....?

Oh yes please @Papyrophile that would be great. Mine was from a jumble sale when I was a student - that's not going to ever happen again. How's Mr Papyrophile doing?

Will keep a beady eye out (sorry, could not resist!)

MrPap is doing okay... his eye is still very sore, but the air bubble is being reabsorbed and his vision is much clearer. Assuming the all clear happens at the next check up, he's just got one (brief) laser treatment remaining.