➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method

[botemp]

Offshoot from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in (especially if you have superior knowledge) as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín
Science-y Hair Blog

Not the entire (curly) line from Aveda is CGM and I believe some of the more militant groups that are even stricter than CGM already is (they avoid things like polyquats and polymers too, I think) really don't like them for some reason. Possibly as it's a natural brand that isn't very 'natural'? Manes by Mell is (or was) an Aveda stylist. I started off with some Aveda products because they were easy to source samples from locally. The only foam I've used is the phomollient and it was good, didn't really catch on that it only really worked for me when layered over gel rather than under and since it was the travel size I didn't have much left at that point. I don't have anything to compare it with, I have the Innersense now so I'll see how they compare. I sampled both the flaxseed based gel (strong hold) and the more liquidy confixor (which I ended up purchasing, it works for me but I go through a lot of it so I probably need a stronger hold, I think that one isn't CGM). I also sampled the be curly cream and it was nice but I preferred the Christophe Robin curl cream I already had but they're very similar. Salon were really helpful too with free samples and advice. Very long ago I remember using some other Aveda products, like a really sticky pommade in a blue jar and something in a white bottle with blue lettering to leave in ends but no idea what it was now. My mother and I both used it (I was a teenager at the time) and she was much curlier than me, worked for both of us though.

I've gone to some Aveda salons in the past and it was more due to other things that I blamed the owner for (staff being treated badly and needing to work on several clients all at once, not being transparent about colour costs before starting, not getting the stylist you booked, etc.) that made me go elsewhere. The products have a very strong and distinct smell you either love it or hate it. The best hair stylist I ever had was an Aveda stylist but she disappeared one day from the next. The pain

I should wash my hair again today, but conflicted, the rest of my samples arrive tomorrow so I could delay or try the same routine from last time (I decided soft wasn't the right descriptor, it's too slick) and either try the gelebration spray that's meant to go under the spiralicious to give the body and grit I was missing. Or try the Innersense foam on top of the spiralicious. Not a fan of all these decisions. If I try the gelebration routine it would be protein free which would be interesting to see.

Sarah, if you wash silk pillowcases in the machine, (on a delicate cycle, I assume) do they last well? I've been looking at lilysilk as they offer different sizes and we have atypical sizes here.

Thanks Bo. The only Aveda product I think I will buy is the Go Curly styling prep (a leave-in conditioner really) in a light green bottle. I've checked all the ingredients (although it does have a copolymer but that came up as CG friendly on the site I was inputting all ingredients). I didn't know Mel had an Aveda connection. In any case, I'm cross re the whole Giovanni leave-in protein issue so want something protein for the leave in step.

I agree that Curly hair is full of too many decisions. I ended up washing yesterday (so that made 2 days in a row) and used a CG shampoo (which lathers properly) as realised I had co-washed for 4 washes in a row (not part of my plan but my low poo not arrived) and I felt a lot of product build up. I don't like washing so often as doesn't help with moisture balance (and I think I'm tipping into the too-moisturised arena) so will try to go until next weekend before washing. Good luck with your new products. I'm quite excited about the Jessicurl.

What do you mean by your hair is too slick Bo? And doesn't foam go under the gel?!

Re silk pillowcases: I've had ours for a while and they wash fine (delicate cycle).

It's like when you use something heavy in silicones, it moves a bit unnaturally and drags down but not with weight if that makes sense, there's just no friction. It doesn't look like greasy hair but it feels like hair that's just about greasy. My curls currently look 2a/2b today

We have satin cotton bedding currently, high quality, high thread count and it's always ironed (not by me) it's quite similar to silk satin in finish so I wonder how much a difference it would make.

Oh bloody hell. I’ve just got my skincare vaguely sorted from the other thread and now I’ve discovered I think I may actually be a wavy. Post chemo- if I don’t brush it straight when wet there’s definitely a wave!! A whole new world of products I’m going to have to sneak past my husband. This is going to take me months isn’t it?

Crack on with the chat ladies- I’m lurking and learning...

Hhhhhmmm I get your description Bo. It sounds strange though and I wonder what caused that. I wouldn't have thought using a gel on its own could do that (but what do I know ). It's frustrating when you seem to be going backwards and you don't really know why.

Ive decided to do another rice treatment this weekend as think I need protein. I won't wash before then. All that wet plopping and applying product to soaking wet hair seems to have messed up my hair a bit. Curls still look ok
But hair just seems to be all over the place and a bit frizzy (but soft frizz - not from Being dry if that makes sense). Or maybe it needs a cut to tidy it up. Too many things to think about .....

Hello Mummying

Mine is frizzy but also not a dry frizz sophie. I agree there's a lot to think about. And I keep thinking that until I can get it cut I'm going to be limited in terms of what I can do with it, so I'm focussing on trying to get it as healthy as possible and just experiment with (not too many) products and tecnique.

I'm curious as to the potential and wondering if where roughly it would sit on the curl scale. I've seen people start with waves who then have full on curls.

Let's all just accept I'm a princess and the pea when it comes to my hair. Went with the protein free routine of gelebration followed by spiralicious gel (both from jessicurl). Skipped my usual curl cream as the gelebration spray is also a curl enhancer/former so didn't see the point of doubling up that step.

I used the same amount of spiralicious as still unsure whether I used too much or too little, think too little as I, again, can't scrunch it out but I did have a cast after the plop and one very crunchy bit at the back that should be scrunchable (it's not 100% dry yet).

I don't hate the results but I'm not ridiculously enthused by them either. It's very light which I did like and not so slick/soft. They'd be the ideal results I'd be looking for if my hair was a good bit longer but at this length it just makes me want longer hair. I'm just weird. I think if it had a bit more body (I think using more gel and being able to scrunch it out may achieve that) it would be really nice beachy summer hair when it's hot and humid as jessicurl is good with the dew points.

Baby hairs are sticking up again (I need to delve further into the very hardcore science of cationic conditioners and hard water) but almost no frizz so the spiralicious definitely delivers on that. I'm wondering if I should have tried the other Jessicurl gel (forgot the name, coils something?) instead, I think that's lighter? I'm liking the gelebration though, my hair instantly cheered up and went super seaweedy when I applied it (the spray is a bit rubbish though, just ended up spraying in hands) which is always a good sign.

Welcome mummying, I had a friend have the most amazing curls after chemo, it was jet straight before.

Custard. Exactly as you imagine a custard would be, though I always think this one has a hit of There's Something About Mary about it :o

I find that this has similar hold to the Aussie gel I use in damp weather but I need to use a lot more of it to get that hold.

Excuse my horrendous fingernails, btw!

I've decided I'm going to try a rice water rinse at the weekend.

DH reminded me of something yesterday. When we were dating, so about 20 years ago, I went to Toni and Guy for the first (and last) time. Because of how tricky my hair can be I went for a consult beforehand and told the senior stylist what I wanted: it would have been something I could blow dry straight, probably a bit Rachel from Friends when hers was a bit shorter/choppier. It was probably shoulder length. Yep, he said that was doable.

I turned up for the appointment (a Saturday morning) a few days later and the stylist wasn't there. Finally arrived about half an hour late. Had been out clubbing the night before, he said.

Anyway, it wasn't until he put mousse in and started diffusing my hair that I realised he had absolutely no recollection of our chat a few days before. I replayed the morning's conversation and in hindsight it was very clear that he didn't remember ever meeting me. So he diffused my hair into what I now know to be a full on curly girl do: it was huge! I hated it. DH wanted to meet up and I was so reluctant as I was mortified and embarrassed. But DH loved it. To the point that he still remembers it to this day.

The fist time I realised my hair could do curls was at a Toni and Guy, about 17 years ago. It wasn't the one in Sunderland, was it, by any chance?

No Pick, Guildford. Am I right in thinking that at&G have half a dozen or so styles they do and that's it? We obviously got the curly one!

Thanks PickAChew. Is that the Cantu Twist and Lock gel? I have that somewhere here. Packaging looks similar. at Something about Mary !! Is that the Aussie Instant Freeze gel you use? Heard good things about it but very hard to get hold of. It's also protein and glycerin free like the Jessicurls one.

Your hair looks nice Bo (smooth and frizz free) but it looks straighter than the photo you posted the other day (it could just be the photos though).

Re the Jessicurl products, I initially thought Confident Coils and Rockin Ringlets were both curl definers but Confident Coils is similar to a gel but less hold. I think Confident Coils creates definition but doesn't enhance as much as Rockin Ringlets. Gelebration spray enhances but again not as much as Rockin ringlets.

Pupsie, not a great Toni and Guy experience then. Can't believe the guy had no recollection of your pre-cut chat . But how lovely that your DH still remembers your curls. I've always been curly and my hair used to be soooo easy. Just washed it and left it and lovely curls. Don't think I really using styling products either. Then after my last DC I started to get loads of frizz and it just wouldn't behave itself anymore so at some point got so fed up that chopped it all off into a pixie - complete spur of the moment decision. My problem now is that everyone here is obsessed with straight hair and going to the hairdresser for blow dries and styling and I can't find a hairdresser who knows how to work with curls....

Without protein my hair is definitely straighter, this morning it's even more so. The rest of my samples should arrive today. I'll definitely try the protein treatment that comes with that next.

My hair used to be really easy too, wash condition leave to air dry. I miss those days but hormones can really mess it up

Rocking ringlets and gelebration are essentially the same product, down to the INCI but gelebration has more water in it.

Are there no curly groups in Greece Sophie?

Protein is on my list to try to get my head around next. I've saved a couple of blogposts to get stuck into after work.

I did weights this morning then washed hair over bath. That's in the boys' bathroom and I forgot there's a really handle shower head/nozzle that you can stick back in it's holder whilst you work product in etc. Obviously don't leave it running for long, but sometimes it's handy. Then showered after leave in conditioner with head plopped for 10 minutes. The only difference to the styling today was trying out the Gionvanni gel which someone here said gives a firm cast so we shall see! Not used that one yet. Also no diffusing today.

Got a work call later so this new hair routine made me get my bum out of bed and train earlier which is actually good, on account of the heat here (garage gym: goes from 5 degrees in winter to 25+ in summer: neither is much fun). But also got it out of the way. Ordinarily I'd faff for a lot of the morning and just wash and stick my hair in a bun.

I SOTC with a cotton tee-shirt last time. That wasn't a good idea was it. I'm going to use a silk pillowcase today and try to be more gentle.

With and without cast. Thought it was dry. Turns out it wasn't quite at the roots. Need to allow 2.5 hours I think. Think I prefer this gel.

Can't believe the difference in your hair already pupsie
I seem to be getting along with low poo, haven't had to up my washing from twice a week as expected. My hair is feeling alot softer which is nice, pretty certain it is 2A/2B rather than properly curly, so unsure where to start with a gel/mousse etc.

Thanks out. Do you think? It's so hard to be objective when it's yourself isn't it!!

Glad you are finding things that work, and not washing too often is great!

From what I can tell, people on IG looked more wavy when the started and 6+ months in looked proper curly! Who knows where we might end up!

I'm always somewhat bemused by people who never knew they had curly hair. Did you just always have coarse hair and parents washed and brushed it into a scraggly mess as they were unfamiliar with the hair texture? I went from straight to curly overnight in my t(w)eens with the onset of hormones and it was pretty difficult to ignore or not know about.

I knew I had wavy hair but didn't have the know-how to deal with it back in the day. In primary school photos it was very very mildy wavy. I used to have it permed in my teens. Pre-then it was just a wild mess. My mum made we have a pixie crop when I was about 10. I remember wearing a woolly hat on the school bus. I hated it. It didn't suit me at all. I was soooo short. I felt so exposed and vulnerable. The boys on the back of the bus ripped the hat off and everyone fell about laughing. I was beyond mortified.

But other than when it was that short I guess I've just never known how to deal with it. Even during the perm years the goal was to blow dry it out. So I've always gone against any waves/curls.

What I am seeing now is that it's probably more wavy than I have ever thought. Because I've never nurtured those waves I was unaware. But yes, I've always known it was wavy.

Everything @Pupsiecola says resonates - apart from the bus journey! My mother always kept my hair short until I insisted on growing it, always wanting long straight glossy locks. A perm gave my hair enough body to keep a shape or to have some staying power if blow dried.

Two week in with CGM, I am seeing some progress, but all the products are a new world. For years, I've managed by blow drying with mousse, but it's always been a battle.

Here I am as a toddler, and there are definitely some waves. And then in my early 20s with a heavily layered perm blow dry .

I had a Bob as a child until I was about 11, and my mum blow dried it straight 🙈 then as a teenager it was thick and course which it still is. I'm not sure how much curlier it will go I haven't straightened it in well over a year and very rarely blow dry. Only heat is an occasional (every few months) blow dry or curling with a wand. But its possible all the silicone and sulfates have changed my curl pattern.
Been looking at my conditioner this afternoon last ingredient is dmdm hydantoin which seems pretty bad. Any opinions? All other ingredients seem good and its last on the list. Hoping it isn't to terrible as it's the only caucasian suitable conditioner I've found made locally and I was keen to reduce the absurd airmiles on my products