➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method

[botemp]

Offshoot from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in (especially if you have superior knowledge) as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín
Science-y Hair Blog

@Pupsiecola

I think my hair is pretty well balanced (protein/moisture) but that I need to do some reading around dew points/glycerin. Does anyone change their routine/products around different dew points? Not sure I can be bothered tbh.

I find that in spring and autumn, there are periods where I need glycerine. Same when it's below zero in winter. I think it's central heating more than anything. Most of the time I do better without it.

Anyhow, tried the innersense minus the disastrous LIC, so hydrate hair bath and conditioner, followed by the create hold gel, this afternoon. Not much clumping and I have some wild frizzies but I have the curliest cast I've had for a while. Crossing my fingers for a no ponytail day, tomorrow.

From what I've read so far humidity is a pretty pointless measure as it's relative to temperature, whereas dew points are a stand alone measure so a better way to judge. I saw a really good explanation on IG (if I've got it right). I washed my hair today but didn't have time to use a gel/let that dry so I just used LIC and clump cream and diffused it. I was going into my non-airconditioned, sunny office where it's unbearable in the Summer so I just put it in a ponytail. I suspect I will do that for the next week tbh. Tomorrow I'm kayaking to the pub with my bestie so that'll be another ponytail day. I can't be doing with it and the volume of hair makes me very hot.

I did my monthly IG cull and got rid of all but 2 or 3 hair accounts (I think I've said before I keep the number of people I follow to under 80 and most of those are friends or fitness). Anyway, I came across a salon which is an hour or so away. If I ever change hairdresser/when mine retires I'll seriously consider going here. The before and afters are bonkers, although I fully appreciate it looks like the hair has been brushed out pretty harshly in the befores. It's an Aveda salon. We don't tend to talk about Aveda products. The IG handle is nualamoreysalon.

I still haven't really looked at dew points or glycerin, I'm still experimenting with moisture/protein and scalp health. I do leave some of the cast in when it's very rainy or sticky hot as it helps a bit with any frizz. I used to use a Cantu spray in summer, which was lovely and got lots of compliments on the smell, but unfortunately the bees rather liked the smell too!

PickAChew, the curls look lovely and bouncy! I'm quite tempted when I run out of other products to try some more of the Innersense. I did nearly buy the hydrating cream bath, but went for the Gallinee instead, as I wanted to try something specifically for my scalp.

Pupsie, years ago I used to go to an Aveda salon (I think before they were bought out), they also used to use Bumble & Bumble products. Manes by Mell really rates some of their products but she's not strictly CGM. I stopped their Blue Malva shampoo, it gave a lovely colour, but was just too harsh for me. Tbf to Aveda, lots of shampoos are too harsh for me, and lots of people really rate the Blue Malva.

I can definitely live with this. Really need to book a haircut, mind

Looks good Pick.

Aveda, we've touched on it briefly before because I remember Sophie asking about it. I have the confixor gel which seems to be used on all those curly heads on that ig account and I find it ok as a gel (it's not CGM approved), definitely prefer the Innersense but of the other gels I've tried the confixor would be my preference over those. Their phomollient (CGM approved I think) is really nice but you need to use a lot, I prefer the Innersense there too but more on a cost per use basis, they're fairly even for me, curlier patterns may like the phomollient more as the hold and cast is stronger. The Be curly cream I only sampled and was a bit meh about.

Manes by Mell is/was an Aveda stylist, hence her preference and familiarity with the products. I've been to a few Aveda salons but they'd always work with the tier system and I'd usually find a really good junior stylist with similar hair to mine (or at least a really good understanding) who I really liked and then as some sort of favour I'd get a more senior stylist who then proceeded to fuck up my hair , the worst one sent me out with wet hair in the middle of wonter because you shouldn't blow dry curly hair that happened a little too often (the 'upgrade') and it was pretty obvious no one booked the higher tiers (we're a nation of tight wads) and they just booked you in with a higher tier at the lower price so that you'd book in with the senior next time and the junior you liked tended to fuck off elsewhere as all their loyal clients were being taken away. I will say of my limited experience with colour, it always came out best at Aveda, they felt like true hair colours where a lot of other salons can look quite artificial.

I've gone off on a tangent, anyhow, those pics look a little too perfect to me and no longer realistic. The befores are definitely made to look worse and there's definitely some professional-ish lighting as well as a lot of post production happening on those after photos, it doesn't appeal to me at all as it stops feeling like 'natural' hair, it just feels highly manipulated. I know my hair does not have the capability to look like that (don't have the sheer mass of hair or curl pattern, no magical cut will change that) and even if I did, it would not look like that on a daily basis, I'm just not high maintenance enough.

*sorry, didn't specify phomollient is their foam

I feel like that about some of the photos on reddit. Yes, it (often) looks great but try routinely spending 3 hours primping your hair into perfection while looking after kids, working full time, or just plain having to go outside in anything other than neutral weather.

My motivation for CGM was less work. Silicones left my hair dry and greasy at the same time and it took so much heat to beat it into even vague compliance that it just got frizzier and more unruly. I was washing it 5 days a week and it takes a long time to dry and my neck and shoulders were constantly sore.

Now I give it 10-15 minutes of attention about 3 times a week, the Crispy ends are no more and if it looks crap, it's easily contained or re-styled, depending on my plans.

I felt the same about Reddit Pick, I saw the light somewhat when I saw this (thankfully quite early on into my CGM exploration) and have to say I did get a bit judgemental as I wondered what the hell you were doing with your life if this is your normal routine. Hair just isn't that important to me to contort into uncomfortable positions for hours on end. I'm willing to spend some time and money on it now so it can be an easy low maintenance thing long term and I can adapt easily if ever my hair changes but by CGM standards I believe I'm already putting in a half arsed effort.

I mean she has amazing hair, well had unfortunately she's gone from being the CGM golden standard to a warning tale as she was a Devacurl devotee and her hair is now worse than she started. But where she was already amazing hair, a cut, some length and some products tweaked it but it's not a night and day change.

Oh for sure people make their "before" photos look worse. Especially some of the curlies - they so brush their hair in places and claim it's hair which needs a wash/treatment/this product.....

Your hair is looking really good pickachew. sometimes I think CGM is easier but I've realised today that washing my hair has become so messy (products, towels and shower caps all over the bathroom) and rather protracted (but then I am deep conditioning and doing rice water rinse every weekend at the moment - not sure how long this will last....)

I feel a bit sorry for that poor girl Bo. Her hair was really really lovely. I saw her you tube video about the DC products and she was VERY UPSET. Hope she has managed to salvage her hair now.

I had also started watching the science clinic hair video that you also posted here Bo. interesting but quite long so need to find the time to finish it.

My new innersense, treluxe and bounce curl products arrived today! We're going on holiday for 2 weeks now so will save them all for when we're back. Taking the jessicurl rockin ringlets and hoping to use some of it up. Getting better results with RR but I find the consistency annoying so won't re-purchase. It gives my DD the most amazing curls (but then her hair is lovely anyway - she is always getting compliments on it. I'm teaching her how to care for it so hopefully it will always stay as lovely as it is now).

Just watched the India and Ayesha video. Was laughing out loud at her diffusing in that position

I was interesting to watch the deva curl hype implode when people's hair started breaking and falling out. The products aren't cheap, either, even in the US.

I was reading a bit about preservatives, earlier, after realising that the daddy-o I use for clarifying washes has parabens in. Turns out that parabens were introduced as a replacement for formaldehyde but, as there is some fear that parabens are potential oestrogen mimickers, some cosmetics and toiletries manufacturers have gone back to formaldehyde. I have no idea how that is ever acceptable.

There's a huge amount of data on parabens, more than on any other preservatives and the safety really shouldn't be questioned the way it has been, the safety record heavily outweighs any risks. There are a few specific ones that have been banned in the EU but it's more out of precaution than any definitive data, they weren't very widely used before that anyhow. The science panel goes into it a bit but tl;dr, parabens are not something to be scared of. In the EU formaldehyde is not allowed in cosmetics, generally they're replaced by other preservatives but they're not as good as parabens so you need to use more.

Haha, yes, Sophie. I remember watching then and thinking ok, I can do that product and that order, nodding along and then the diffusing started and I was 😱😱😱😱

It is really sad though, she uploaded a quick video a couple of days ago wearing a beanie, feeling too embarrassed to show her hair, so I'm afraid the situation hasn't improved much.

The Devacurl implosion was a thing to behold, and as horrible as it is for those people I do think the method contributed to it in some part, or made it more severe. The science panel discusses it a little bit too, not in depth as they all seemed to have insider information they weren't willing to reveal but just the method and the mentality around it that encourages not so healthy behaviour when it comes to scalp health.

Yes, this is why I'm sceptical about Co-washing for all but the most fragile hair. I'll do it if my hair is a mess but quite fresh but I want to look more presentable the next day but doing it regularly would be the path to full blown seborrhoeic dermatitis for me. And my hair would look hideous, too, with coarse, fairly low porosity hair that nevertheless benefits from the softening qualities of some unexpectedly heavy products. They need washing off well! It's also one of the reasons why I only occasionally wash my hair in the shower. It's hard to clean my scalp at the back of my head and most of the conditioners I like have a dangerous amount of slip!

My hair is washed ready for a shoot tomorrow, praying it goes ok!
I've done
Aunt jackies co wash
Creightons micellar conditioner
Innersense x 3 volume/lift/hold
Now to diffuse and it's ROASTING

@QueenCT

My hair is washed ready for a shoot tomorrow, praying it goes ok! I've done Aunt jackies co wash Creightons micellar conditioner Innersense x 3 volume/lift/hold Now to diffuse and it's ROASTING

Please tell me you're not spending 40 minutes diffusing, arse up, on your bed :o

More like 20 mins sat on the sofa

Not brilliant photos, but Style magazine had an article on scalp health. I would say it was a bit confusing, lumping together dandruff, seborrhoeic dermatitis and build up. This is why I used to get so confused. I have used the Cantu scalp oil but it is really oily, my hair used to need lots of oils but seems to need less perhaps because it is healthier now.

bo, you will be pleased to know the Gallinee has come. I used it this morning (partly to combat sweaty heat scalp) it has not much perfume, is quite creamy but left my hair squeaky clean. I think the test will be to see how my scalp is in a few days and longer term. I used that and the innersense hydrating cream conditioner and my hair felt very moisturised but not too soft.

Is it squeaky clean like a clarifying shampoo squeaky but none of the frazzled dryness that usually comes with that, Quirky?

The beauty brains did a podcast on scalp health recently that might be of interest. They also discuss the role of glycerin and frizz in curly hair. Haven't had time yet to listen yet, so I hope it's actually useful.

I was in Tkmaxx the other day and they had a whole bunch of products from a vegan UK brand called Shrub. I thought it looked CG friendly but only checked on it now. Most of it is CG friendly (it's all styling products), it's very affordable normally already, I might go back and buy the oil as it's very lightweight. Debating the sea salt spray, I wanted to try the Innersense one and my gut is telling me I'll probably like that better...

I made myself a silk turban this morning, very much like the Silke ones except I put the satin side on the inside as that made more sense to me 🤷 I had some silk leftover so it'll be good to see as I'm not convinced it'll stay on or be comfortable to sleep in, so I won't be out lots of money. It's comfy so far though, looks very 1920s with my hair down which could be useful if I'm ever having a bad hair day on top or need to spruce up an evening look.

bo, yes, thick like a conditioner with a lot of slip to put through the length, but when I rinsed it off it was squeaky but not stripped.

Love the turban, it makes much more sense to have the satin side next to your hair.

I will check out that podcast.

Got the pump on my orange marmalade pump working properly. Used it after a lush daddy-o clarifying wash and a few gloops of my go to garnier banana hair food - a few flashy frizzies, but lots of curls - made sure I added lots of extra water. Good cast and good clumps. I can happily keep the crunch in with an innocent "oh it's freshly washed" excuse!

This crazy little loop is a remarkably consistent feature of my frizzies.

Well I can't say I was overly impressed by the hold of the orange marmalade. Glad it's a small bottle.

Decided to try out some of the jessicurl, today. Can't say I was wowed by the gentle lather shampoo. It just didn't feel all that nice to use. I opted for the richer, Too Shea, conditioner. It took a bit of work, adding some warm water, but it did eventually soften and detangle, nicely. I combed through while still soaking and raked in a palmful of confident coils. I did intend to start with less but it was runner than I anticipated. Now that felt good, instantly. No flash drying. Dabbed off the excess and any big drips then applied about 2/3 of my go to bucketful of Aussie Instant Freeze.

It's almost dry with very little frizz and the rebellious stuff around my crown is playing along very nicely.

Day 4 after washing with Gallinee, innersense conditioner. This bit of hair is usually my thinnest, most fragile part, which just won't seem to grow, looks quite healthy and bounct atm. Pretty pleased as my scalp has no itchy, dry or flaky bits and hair is shiny despite lots of hot, sweaty days and hair up under a sunhat a lot.

I did try the Gallinee on dd2, who has a dry scalp but straight hair. It was too conditioning for her and left her hair a bit greasy.

Looking good, bouncy, healthy curls PickAChew. It's strange when products feel "wrong", I think we have preconceived ideas of what they should be like.

*bouncy

The Jessicurl stuff feels really slimy. A bit like the Papier mache glue of my youth. It looks good though Pick.

Interesting quirky as I'm still debating the Gallinee and I think it was on the science panel or a podcast (I just know the woman scientist from the beauty brains said it) mentioned that glucoside surfactants can weigh hair down if it's fine and the Gallinee only uses a glucoside as a surfactant. It's probably not for me but I'm glad to hear it's working well for you.

I did a wash day yesterday with the Jessicurl spiralicious as I remembered it gave beachy hair, used it with spiralicious then which didn't work for me. It's looking a bit flat and frizzy so no good on its own (used Innersense gel over it). I need to do a rice rinse again but this heat is making it difficult to predict when I wash my hair and I don't really feel like eating something heavy like rice for dinner either.