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➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method

995 replies

botemp · 20/05/2020 18:17

Offshoot from the Fantastic Skincare threads to document the trials and tribulations in order to make sense and science of the curly girl method. We don't necessarily follow it to the letter and are even critical of it in places. Nor are we especially knowledgeable at this point but we're learning as we go. Feel free to join in (especially if you have superior knowledge) as we attempt to approach this with an interest in ingredients and try to not buy everything that promises us magical things…

Useful blogs:

Curly Cailín
Science-y Hair Blog

OP posts:
Thread gallery
190
botemp · 21/06/2020 11:00

Yes, now that you mention it it may be the case you shampoo after, that's why I got confused with the wash twice but it didn't make sense not to wash first. I think you're supposed to use it on wet product free hair but I'm not sure how a simple rinse removes that, but maybe it does.

I remember researching it a bit and came to the conclusion it probably isn't very interesting for me as I don't have chemically damaged hair. But there's so many 'experts' on it and they definitely get the science wrong in their explanations, so it's very murky waters who tells you what. I have seen it mentioned with curlies that twisting the strands helps (so apply in sections and twist to strands over each other). Heat cap doesn't make much of a difference and that you should do about twice the recommended time but beyond that there's no extra benefit. I can't remember about shower caps, I'd be inclined to use one but I don't have masses of hair and I'd assume I'd loose a fair amount of moisture uncovered, aside from just being annoying to be doing other things with wet hair.

OP posts:
QueenCT · 21/06/2020 11:09

My order from naturalistic has shipped so I can test and review stuff when it arrives. Quite excited to try the ecoslay jello shot

botemp · 21/06/2020 11:18

Pupsie, I went back to my notes and it should be used on wet build up free hair (so not product free, but sort of I suppose). So you do shampoo twice (if you have buildup). Chelating wash first followed by olaplex twisted in and then shampoo it out with something gentler like a cowash or lo poo.

OP posts:
Outtheforest · 21/06/2020 11:48

bo I usually use it before plopping and then add a bit more afterwards, I'm not convinced it does much. I find the biggest impact it makes is actually on dry hair, if I scrunch a bit in on day 2/3 it prevents huge amounts if frizz and knotting particularly on humid days.
Think I'll try to pick up a stronger hold product next time I get to town. (Currently stuck at home due to being considered covid exposed Blush )

Pupsiecola · 21/06/2020 12:20

Tha ma for checking Bo. It's on now. I did it in sections. I didn't twist but will do that next time. I'll leave it for an hour as I have some jobs to do around the house anyway. So yes, shower cap is on.

Skinfulnappies46 · 21/06/2020 14:52

Loving all the discussion here without anyone\anything getting slated. I was fairly straight as I child then literally went out at lunchtime at school when I was 12 or 13 and came back 8 side curly..it was a windy day. My hair suffered during post partum. X 5 ..thin and straggly.
I have had my hair super short pixie styles, platinum blonde, red, purple etc.
About 2 years ago I got fed up getting it cut and coloured constantly and decided to give CGM a go. I got bogged down re products and methods but stuck to a few just to get it back in condition . I then got my first curly cut. That was my game changer. He spent time looking at my hair, showed me how to wash it, condition and apply products. From then on I felt liberated. Literally.
Personally I used boucleme green cleanser, condtioner and gel with a little of the trepadora papaya slip. Theses products are expensive but I honestly spend less on my hair than I ever have done. I only wash every 5 days or so. I use very little product ( I always thought I was getting poor results because I needed greater hold ,therefore more product) . Less product, then watering it in, is just my holy grail now.
I only get a cut every 6 months and when I get it coloured, I get opalex and the colours are organic,bleach free. My hair is now never knotty. I can easily Detangle with just the cleanser.
Good luck to everyone. Keep it simple is the best advice.Some beautiful photos of your hair x

SophieLion · 21/06/2020 18:58

Pupsie, definitely no heat cap. I've read the heat interferes with how the olaplex works.

Before olaplex I had clarified (well I had to use a proper shampoo to get out all the colour) and after olaplex I used a low poo to wash it out. Then did a deep condition with a thermal cap. I didn't twist my sections (although will try that next time - thanks Bo) and kept it on for an hour with a normal shower cap on top. Read somewhere that olaplex can carry on working for up to 45 mins of hair is damp so that's why I kept it on so long.

How is your hair looking now Pupsie?

Which brand of hair colour do you use Skinful? Also do you use olaplex only when you colour or do you use at other times?

Pupsiecola · 21/06/2020 19:51

Yeah I didn't heat cap. I figured it would be counter productive. Hair looking okay Sophie. Not more curly per se but softer and less scraggy looking I think.

Skinful yes I hear you re too many products. Having a hair cut in 3 weeks I've decided to just petty much stick with what I've been doing.

How did you find your hairdresser and are they a proper curly girl stylist or just someone experienced with cutting curly hair? Did you know what to ask for beforehand and did you have much taken off?

Skinfulnappies46 · 22/06/2020 10:12

Hi Pupsie and sophie . My hairdresser uses Oway and olaplex just when I get it coloured.
My hairdresser Saulo trains hairdressers with Lorraine Massey so he knows what he is doing. My hair was just growing out from a pixie cut so he was just shaping it initially. He knew exactly what to do and I just left feeling relieved that the whole CGM is actually dry simple. I spend very litttle time on my hair and how I wish I had known this years ago

Skinfulnappies46 · 22/06/2020 10:12
  • very simple
quirkychick · 22/06/2020 13:22

Skinful, my hairdresser used olaplex when I had it coloured lighter (a few years ago, now) it's not coloured any more but quite a few people with silver hair recommend it. My hairdresser uses Oway, I can't remember which product, but she tried something for curly hair but it didn't work that well on me.

I certainly don't want to change too much at a time. I think I was getting desperate with my scalp, but hydrocortisone on the dry bits and the scalp brush have helped a lot. I'm pretty happy with my leave in conditioner, gel and hair cream so it's more the washing part I'm tinkering with.

QueenCT · 22/06/2020 14:02

All new to me except the leave in Grin excited for wash day

➿ Fantastic Haircare: Making Sense and Science of the Curly Girl Method
Pupsiecola · 22/06/2020 19:57

Where is your hairdresser skinful. I don't want to change just yet as in 5 years I've never had an issue with mine. But she is mid 50s and will probably retire at some point in the medium term.

SophieLion · 23/06/2020 06:40

Sounds like you've found a good curly hairdresser Skinful. Lucky you Smile

That's an exciting hoard of new products Queen. As I see you use a a variety of products, could you share some of your favourites? I'm particularly interested in a protein leave in (Bo did you like the blueberry bliss in the end or not?) and a protein conditioner.

Speaking of protein, I've just seen this re rice water treatments on IG:

"Whilst rice water acts as a protein treatment, the key nutrient behind its benefits is actually a carbohydrate, Inositol. Inositol penetrates the hair shaft, repairing the damage and staying in place even after cleansing. There is protein in rice water but, due to the size of this protein, the actual benefits may be limited."

Am now confused, do you think rice treatments aren't doing much for the moisture-protein balance then?

botemp · 23/06/2020 07:21

The blueberry bliss left me a bit dry so it wasn't my favourite. I think I shouldn't use too much protein at the beginning of my routine and leave it for the stylers with a variation of proteins as opposed to one giant punch from one.

Yeah, my conclusion was that rice water rinses are more like a toner that resettles the pH of your hair (as the rice rinse is acidic after fermentation) and that's probably why it's a useful treatment just to reset things and keep the scalp healthy. Its main benefits seem to be for the scalp and its influence on hair growth. The extent of the protein effect is probably minor, thanks to some amino acids (as it won't be a very concentrated amount in comparison to a specially formulated protein treatment) that will probably strengthen fine hairs and therefore reduce breakage.

The inositol, I don't know, it's a sugar alcohol, so assuming just a humectant. I actually take it as a supplement for PCOS. It's big jar of powder so I have eyed it thinking to just add it to something but have never dared as no idea to dosage. Since it's a sugar alcohol I can't think of it doing anything beyond being a humectant/film former. I take inositol for hormonal reasons (per doctor's advice) but it is also supposed to help prevent hair loss as it inhibits DHT. Even though that's an internal thing, you can use topical ingredients to inhibit DHT on the scalp, so maybe 🤷

Rice rinses seem to be predominantly popular with women with afro textured hair to grow hair (which is more difficult for that hair type) strong and healthy. Similarly in Asia it's all about length and strength so there's probably more to it but the protein aspect is probably a smaller aspect of it. Black rice seems to be more potent which has a higher nutritional value so I think there's just an availability of nutrients/antioxidants in there too.

With the fermentation process I have wondered if galactomyces are at play but I don't think such a short fermentation would make that happen. I do think the fermentation is key, without it it's probably a starch treatment as you'll temporarily see a stiffening that could probably be assumed to be the result of protein and it'll act as a film former which will also mean added shine and gloss. That's my theory anyhow, there was no meaningful research to be found on rice rinses, unfortunately.

It does feel like it's a synergy of several potential things, ph balancing ie. good for scalp health which is the foundation of (future) good hair health, potentially DHT inhibiting ie. no disruption of growth, amino acids to strengthen fine hair ie. less breakage , potential active ingredients/antioxidants that also improve hair health and the starches acting as film formers for temporary hold and gloss.

Sorry that was long...

OP posts:
QueenCT · 23/06/2020 07:49

@SophieLion I have a few! In all categories
As I am co wash
Giovanni direct leave in (very light)
Moogoo conditioner
Broo conditioner (iherb is where I buy it)
Giovanni tea tree
Jessicurl spiralicious
Cake whip curl mousse
Ecoslay orange marmalade
Mizani hair oil for SOTC (it's the consistency of water, v v thin)

SophieLion · 23/06/2020 09:52

Thank you Bo. So from what you're saying, protein benefits from rice are very little but probably good for the hair anyway. I certainly notice a difference in my hair after using it. Some of the IGers swear by it as a protein treatment.

Re blueberry bliss leave in, I think you don't have an issue with being over moisturised so perhaps it would work better for me who has the moisture tendency. My cousin gets on well with it and she also gets over moisturised easily.

Thanks Queen. I'll have a look at those.

SophieLion · 23/06/2020 09:55

So presumably you didn't like the innersense sweet spirit leave in either then Bo (I think I recall you trying that too?)?

QueenCT · 23/06/2020 10:07

I think if I had to pick stuff for a wash day that is 99% likely to work Grin it would be
As I am co wash
Moogoo conditioner
Jessicurl rocking ringlets and spiralicious
Cake mousse
Diffuse and air dry until rock solid cast and sleep on it
then SOTC in the morning

botemp · 23/06/2020 10:10

Basically, yes. I think rice rinses have a lot of potential benefits. I've also seen quite a few rice rinses ruined my hair videos pop up so it's doing something at least. But those were predominantly natural hair movement women and I know hair growth is a big deal with them as you're somewhat defying the odds of what that hair can do so I suspect overuse rather than the rice rinses themselves are the issue. Same as with ACV rinses, beneficial in moderation but will frazzle your hair if overused.

I have tried the Innersense sweet spirit and didn't have issue with that (just not overly excited either) but I think the entire innersense line (I'll report back later I'm doing a whole innersense styling routine today although it's nearly noon already and I need to go out Shock) has a more balanced protein level throughout as you're meant to use several protein containing products with each other so the LIC isn't that suped up with protein the way the blueberry bliss is.

OP posts:
SophieLion · 23/06/2020 11:33

I've not heard of moogoo Queen. Going to look it up. I have those jessicurl products but not using a the moment as keeping things very simple to assess hair health.

Why do you prefer to SOTC in the morning rather than before you sleep?

QueenCT · 23/06/2020 11:40

@SophieLion moogoo do a protein shot too Smile
I find the longer I leave the cast, the better plus it protects it overnight. When I wake up the cast is softer and easier to scrunch out. Plus means any tiny damp patches are definitely dry

Pupsiecola · 23/06/2020 11:54

I never get a cast in my underneath layers despite applying all products with head upside down and using The Giovanni LA. I'm really careful to rope in product as a quadrant so I do the back of my hair (upside down) too. Why would this be re lack of cast? Is it because I have a lot of and the hard cast on the above layers erode it over time? Not massively fussed because ironically my underneath layers are my curliest. This is helping with my currently less is more approach to products.

Of Queen's list I really like Giovanni Tea Tree and Giovanni Leave In.

I'm really curious about all the different products. I can imagine finding what I like and sticking to it (as has happened with the Giovanni, although I have nothing really to compare them to). I guess for some people it's about having different products to create different looks?

SophieLion · 23/06/2020 12:07

Sorry somehow missed your entire post Bo. Well i have always tried to balance a rice treatment with a deep conditioner for moisture as the rice can be drying for sure.

Yes what you say about innersense and the blueberry bliss LIC makes sense. Manes by Mel has suggested that 2 of the products in a wash routine should contain protein but obviously that would depend on the amount of protein in each product and the needs of one's hair.

Hhhhm Pupsie, perhaps you need to add some more gel to the bottom back and do some extra scrunching there. I noticed that if I'm wearing a hoodie then my back underneath hair rests on that and doesn't get a proper cast. Could be your hair rubbing against your clothing? (If you get what I mean!) This could also be complete rubbish Grin

My little one is now using my Boucleme co wash (because i think it contributes to my hair becoming too moisturised so prefer to stick with a low poo) and my Giovanni LIC!

SophieLion · 23/06/2020 12:24

Also: how do we lose protein from our hair? Sorry if this is a silly question. Is it colouring the hair, using heat, environmental factors ....? So same as moisture loss really

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