Hair layers question

[Jupiter2Mars]

Can someone settle this question for me please?:-
When your hair is cut into layers, should the layers be all the same length when you hold the hair straight up above your head?

(I hope I am explaining myself well!)

Years and years ago, a hairdresser told me this is the way and should be and he gave me a really good cut. My latest hairdresser says its not so. She says she'll do it that way if i really want it (but she says it in such a way that I feel like I don't know what I am asking for and it will look terrible).

So, who is right? The first hairdresser or the current one?

Current one is right (I am a hairdresser btw).

There are a few different ways of doing layers - basically the one where your layers are the same length straight above your head is long layers and generally works well on long hair. But there are other ways of cutting them, depending on where your parting lies, how long your hair is and how thick it is - so maybe your hairdresser thinks your hair would suit a different way.

What is your hair like atm? Style, thickness, etc?

Its in a bob that just touches shoulders with a side parting. It used to be fine but since I started dyeing it, to get rid of grey, its got thicker.

The reason i ask is because the layers - all except the bottom one - have about an inch of split ends. So, I need a cut on the layers and that's what seems to not get done regularly. The bottom is fine and even, but the next layer is an uneven mess. So, i was thinking of getting an inch chopped off it, and was wondering if that meant I should lose about three inches off the over length? Your reply seems to say that it doesn't?

No you're right, it doesn't. And layers where your hair is all pulled up straight above your head probably won't work on a bob because the weight would all fall at the bottom of the hair style, iyswim. But it also depends if you want a layered bob or just a bob with a bit of weight taken out of the bottom! You probably need round layers - where you basically cut layers 'round' the shape of your head - so a section of hair is pulled out to 90 degrees and cut in line with your head as you go - obviously with a little bit of tweaking to suit your particular style and hair type. Round layers will take more off the layers so should sort out the split ends - but basically if you still have split ends you've had a duff hair cut!