Meet the Other Phone. A phone that grows with your child.

Meet the Other Phone.
A phone that grows with your child.

Buy now

Please or to access all these features

Style and beauty

Looking for style advice? Chat all about it here. For the latest discounts on fashion and beauty, sign up for Mumsnet Moneysaver emails.

Part 3- Fully fledged perfumistas- share your fragrances

986 replies

shoeprincess2 · 22/01/2013 17:27

Part 2 is nearly full!

OP posts:
YouOldSlag · 09/02/2013 01:17

The biggest projection ever is (IMO) Giorgio Beverly Hill or Poison or Obsession.
LOUD!

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 07:38

Nobody needs to be knowledgeable to join this thread. An open and curious mind and the willingness to talk about perfume is all that is needed!

Ah, the eighties and early nineties.
My earliest loves: CK Obsession and Eternity, Amarige by Givenchy, Amazone by Hermes (I still wear this occasionally) - but I also sampled others and remember rather liking Chanel No. 19 and disliking No. 5 and Patou's Joy. Angel scared me.

I tuned out when watery perfumes became popular and wore RL Romance, Burberry Woman and Stella McCartney. During my pregnancies, my sense of smell became hypersensitive and I had to give up perfumes (and visiting the fish section on supermarkets). Then I slowly became interested in perfumes again, first via frequent exposure to duty frees, an then alarmed because many big classics I remembered had disappeared from department stores.

L'Artisan samples are not always the easiest to find. I got lucky, I have a sample of nearly everything from their range (courtesy of a German perfumista eBayer). You can also purchase them here (5? per sample, shipping to UK 11 ? via UPS so you will not have to deal with postal restrictions). Or try to find a place that sells them so that you can sample in-store. They have just ended their twice-a-year sale, they used to have a feminine sample set with tricky glass pearl bottles but not sure they still have it.

Re: good neroli-jasmine perfumes, trying to find exact replacements for something discontinued/reformulated is often very frustrating. I would encourage you to explore anything with "white flowers" in them. If you like them with a sweet, soft base, try finding "white flower ambers". But just trying on a lot of perfumes that feature orange blossom, neroli or jasmine can be a good start. Two sweet citrus perfumes I like are Bergamote by The Different Company and Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford. Cheap orange blossom can often be brash and loud, literally toilet bowl cleaner/air freshener scents, so I do not know the low end all that well. Narcisse Noir by Caron is to me my ultimate comfort orange blossom (expensive as a bottle but a sample is 5 GBP at Les Senteurs). I am not a white flower expert, but aren't Elie Saab and Cavalli EdP potential mainstream alternatives. Can someone name some great niche orange blossoms and nerolis? (The difference between them is clear although people often use them interchangeably: OB smells lush, narcotic and feminine, neroli is more straight-backed and masculine.)

Anyone new to niche, good pathways in are imo L'Artisan, Diptyque, Lutens, Annick Goutal, Chanel Les Exclusifs, Hermes Hermessences, Dior La collection privee and Tauers. You don't need to smell all of them, but all of them are different enough from what is sold elsewhere so that you may (or may not) get hooked.

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 07:43

Oh and re: projection monsters -
L'air du desert marocain and Leather Oud by Dior and Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille leave a sillage throughout the house. So do Loretta, Portrait of the Lady, Oud Ispahan and many others.
Oh, and Fracas.

Yes, I like big perfumes Grin
I think it's a personality question too - I'm an extrovert and also like wearing bright red, big jewellery and being noticed and approached.

Fuzzybirds · 09/02/2013 08:03

Scarletsalt if you live close enough to get to L'Artisan's covent garden shop, they will fill up a little 4ml travel spray with any of their fragrances for you for £15 (I think they also do this in branches of Harvey Nicks, not sure about other outlets) very helpful and approachable sales assistants there too.

Isabelle, Exclamation gets quite a good write up in the guide, I was most surprised! I used to wear it as a teenager, along with 'So....?' Also most of the perfumes MrsSchadenfreude mentions got very good reviews, including Giorgio.

AwkwardSquad · 09/02/2013 08:48

Talking of eighties perfumes, I was remembering a perfume I loved but can't remember the name. So frustrating. It would have been 1985 or 86, I was working in Paris at the time and it was a gift. It came in a clear, narrow triangular bottle - a deco shape to it. It was the essence of Christmas, especially mince pies! Warm, spicy, quite sweet but not overly so... Has anyone any idea what it could have been?

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 09:19

Awkward no idea, sorry... Does anyone else recognize this?

I'm trying on Love By Kilian right now. He's clearly a marketing genius, and one of this marketing ploys has been posting openly the posting the formula of his perfumes. So - here is his list of ingredients used in Love.

William I'm very familiar with the smell of formaline but don't get it here. In this perfume, at least the opening, I get the interplay of the sharp/narcotic facets of orange blossom/neroli (almost queasy to me) and a very thick and sweet vanilla-labdanum amber base (so sweet that I wonder whether ethylmaltol was involved). Many perfumery ingredients can have camphoric facets, wonder whether that is what you are smelling. The "hook" in orange blossom is a love/hate thing - when I first smelled it it was nauseating, but I've learned to like it. (Last spring I spent a lot of time under rain-sodden orange trees - I learned what the natural reference smells like and then also sampled the expensive raw materials - naturals and high end orange blossom smell much more refined than the screechy nylon lace that is Armani Code for Woman.) But it might also that you smell something in this that I am anosmic to/ not bothered by. I tend to like herby, camphoraceous and bitter notes in perfume (I adore clary sage and camphoraceous tuberose). This is not hugely different from Seville a l'Aube in fact - sweeter and missing the wax and incense.

Want to take your expertise on raw materials to a different level? Read Essence & Alchemy by Mandy Aftel. It's an easy read, not a chemistry textbook, and after that many mysterious ingredients are old friends. Better yet, you can go to a department store where they sell aromatherapy kits, and sample them to get the reference right. (A perfumer I know got started that way...)

YouOldSlag, your love of citruses (=hesperides) opens up a lot of possibilities on the masculine side. It might be interesting to also sample some hesperides aromatiques (on strip, not skin first - I don't want you to die/ get PTSD!). Some suggestions here, in French, but do not let that bother you. Classic colognes are great, often underrated. Chanel Eau de Cologne, 4711, Guerlain Eau Imperiale... where I live it gets so hot during the summer, these are often the only viable option. I wore O de Lancome a lot as a teenager, it's great too.

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 09:31

Sorry - link fail - the alleged formula of Love By Kilian here.

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 10:10

Sorry that I'm spamming the thread, but while looking for good descriptions of clary sage, I found this charming 17th century herbal here.
Any lawyers on this thread - check it out ;)

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 10:13

My links are hexed today Sad - Wild Clary for lawyers.

IsabelleRinging · 09/02/2013 10:17

Ah, see, I love big fragrances, but I am quite introverted. For me I think wearing something bold is like living out a fantasy, I can become more confident through it, almost like the power of the fragrance helps me to become that confident person I want to be as I feel I have to live up to my perfume. I don't want to be shy, and fade into the background, so I fight against it, in my head I am a diva!

IsabelleRinging · 09/02/2013 10:19

Oud Isaphan is added to the "must smell" list after reading the CandyBoys review of it!

MrsSchadenfreude · 09/02/2013 11:28

YouOldSlag, try: Eau d'Hadrien, Les Nuits d'Hadrien and Eau du Sud (all Annick Goutal). For a cheap and cheerful, Fleur d'Oranger at Marks and Sparks. Also M & S, the Lynn Harris cologne is good. My summer holiday perfume is Eau Jeune Eau Fraiche... from the supermarket. Grin

I have been out sniffin' this morning. I went into Annick Goutal and sniffed Sables (which I loathed). The woman in the shop suggested I try Duel instead, and I do quite like it, but don't love it, as I do the other Annick Goutals I have (all of the above!). I then went all nostalgic and bought a bottle of Cabochard from a funny little shop near where we live, and got DH a bottle of Carbone by Balmain. I wanted some more of the original Ivoire, but they had sold out. The woman said to keep checking as they would almost certainly have more in. I also had a sniff of Miss Balmain in there, which I used to wear about 100 years ago, and also Fath by Jacques Fath, which was a bit "meh".

CointreauVersial · 09/02/2013 13:10

80s perfumes......happy memories!

Anais Anais was the first one I ever owned, and I still like it now, although I don't wear it. Then came Ysatis de Givenchy (yuk), CK Obsession (I still have a sneaking fondness for this one too....in small quantities), Estee Lauder Knowing (bleurgh....), CK Eternity.

Then later I went green and fresh: Prescriptives Calyx (still gorgeous), Gres Cabotine and Eau D'Issy, which I wore for years, until I suddenly stopped being able to smell it; I just got a sharp sensation in my nose. It was DH's favourite too.

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 13:15

MrsSchadenfreude sounds like a lovely day! I should do the same...
I've heard rumors that Lanvin is about to discontinue Ivoire and reuse the name to do something much blander. Not sure whether that is true or not, but if anyone cares deeply about a certain perfume, it's a smart thing to buy a full bottle and perhaps even a back-up bottle right now, as many classics but also new niches will need to be reformulated.

I love Eau du Sud and the Hadriens and warmly recommend them. More hesperidé ideas for YouOldSlag here (quite basic ones, so perhaps you already know them all).

YouOldSlag · 09/02/2013 13:48

Thanks ProFumo! I think you have pinpointed what I am always hoping to find, and given it a name. Thank you.

MrsSchadenfreude · 09/02/2013 13:54

Ivoire was reformulated last year (I think) and repackaged - this was the "old" Ivoire I was after. I will go back next week and see if they have any. It's a very odd shop - sells everything from slippers to saucepans, and they have this perfume section that has some very lovely, old scents - lots of Balmain, Gres, Fath, Worth etc etc, and all pretty cheap.

MrsSchadenfreude · 09/02/2013 13:58

I have, at some point, had every one of those hesperides in that article, ProFumo! I used to wear Diorella all the time - it was my "work" perfume. That and Eau de Givenchy.

ProFumo · 09/02/2013 14:21

Excellent, YouOldSlag will have an inhouse tutor here inMrsSF - isn't it great to have a perfume twin or sister? You will have rich pickings with the various lists but here is Les Senteurs' list of hesperidés - I gave Acqua di Genova as a gift to someone. A friend really loves Azemour in that category. I also love Eau d'orange verte by Hermes.

I have a twin out there somewhere (it's a he - and he sends me lovely packages) - and quite a few siblings. I also have an "evil perfume twin" - I love her discards and vice versa. Learning to know other perfumistas better is great: you will soon realize whether someone's recommendation means "sample and buy" or "run for your life" Grin

And sorry about incorrect info re: Ivoire. I'm familiar with that type of jumbled shop MrsSF- here, the patrons tend to be over eighty and you can find true treasures (these shops require a willingness to chat at length - it's not a self-service supermarket, there is a counter and things are locked up and hidden). My neighborhood profumeria is a bit like that - ancient bee bottles! I almost started to giggle when I saw Amaryllis by Floris there (not your average come-hither choice). I'm the only "young" customer there I think...

florascotia · 09/02/2013 15:30

Thanks, ProFumo. Much appreciated. I totally agree re insipid florals. And, while tar and suchlike may not be my thing, I can quite see how they can be liberating - and am really glad to hear that others enjoy them. For the right occasion, I still like dirty old Bal a Versailles, and that's not everyone's cup of tea, either.

If I can add another to the list of 1980s knockouts contributed by Slag, Cointreau, Mrs S and others: Private Collection. Very green, very floral and (to me) about x10 too loud. The other w/end, I was helping my partner in the big city spring-clean his flat (friends were coming to stay). The vacuum cleaner died at around 3pm on Sunday afternoon, so I rushed off to John Lewis, still in dirty, dusty cleaning clothes. John Lewis stores always seem to scruffy old me to be exceptionally clean and tidy, so, in a foolish bid to freshen self up, I sprayed both wrists liberally with Private Collection as I dashed through perfumery on my way to housewares. Oh my word! The assistants who sold me the new vacuum and packed it up - quite beautifully - were both far too polite to comment, but I felt like a marked woman. I could almost SEE the trail of vibrating perfume molecules (if that's what the experts say they are) that I was leaving behind me.

An oldie that I used to like very much - and felt quite liberated in - was Antilope by Weil. Have not sniffed it for years, but as I recall that had some sort of edge to it. No idea what that was, however.

CointreauVersial · 09/02/2013 16:13

Niminy - the samples arrived this morning - thank you!

I've just had a quick squirt of the Reverie du Jardin; not sure what to make of it, but not the lavender-fest I was expecting. It's very balmy.

YouOldSlag · 09/02/2013 16:51

ProFumo, it is indeed nice to come across someone with similar taste that I can learn from. It's so freeing to finally realise that I am a hesperides fan. Now I can really get stuck in.

My RL parfumista friend has lent me a box of samples that made my eyes pop out: There must be around 200 , along with a big box of Guerlains. We have recently concluded that we are perfume enemies!

She loves Iris Poudre whilst I loathed it. She liked Feminite du Bois but I thought it smelt like bad personal hygiene, she liked Ambre Sultan, I loathed it. She likes Jicky, I disliked it and it just went on and on.

She also pointed out that i seem to dislike everything that Pierre Bourdon had ever made!

kiwigirl42 · 09/02/2013 16:54

I am a great lover of almond perfumes. I adore Louve and its my wear to bed comfort scent. I'll definitely search out Heeley's L'Amandière. I love Teint de Neige also but usually wear it with a drop of Lipstick Rose, just to up the rosiness a bit.
If anyone has a sample of Tauer's Rose Vermeille they would like to swap for something let me know - the description of it as being ' a jammy rose' sounds right up my street

florascotia · 09/02/2013 17:05

kiwigirl - Suggest you seek out a sample of Caron's Farnesiana. To me, it smells of mimosa and very almondly marzipan.

florascotia · 09/02/2013 17:09

Or 'almondy' even. Sorry for typo.

Badvoc · 09/02/2013 17:24

Oh! Hello! Found you again :)
Well, I couldn't decide on a perfume for my birthday after all, so am currently wearing sun moon stars and/or cashmere by next! :)
I liked mitsuko by guerlain but didn't buy any in the end.
I have never chopped and changed much tbh wrt perfume and am a bit Boring...I am now 40 and have only ever worn;
Nightmusk - Avon - loved this. Discontinued :(
Obsession - Calvin Klein - love this too.
Roma - Laura biagliotti - very nice, but wouldn't wear again.
Stella - Stella McCartney - gift from dh. Ok. Wouldn't wear again.
Sun moon stars - like this one a lot. Lots of compliments on it. Discontinued afaik?
Cashmere - next - Xmas gift from dbro. I like it. Very powdery and suitable for everyday wear.
Am determined to try something new this year at some point!
Any recommendations based on the above!?
I love the smell of musks, roses, violets, dislike sickly sweet or overly floral sharp scents.
Not keen on Chanel. Or Estée Lauder with the exception of cinnabar.